I've got a cheapo 7-speed hybrid. I replaced the chain, a PC48, I think and didn't bother checking if it needed any links. It seems to be running just fine.
However, I read, maybe on Sheldon Brown's site, that chains almost always need a link adding or removing.
If it's running ok, would be correct to not worry about it.
I've got a cheapo 7-speed hybrid. I replaced the chain, a PC48, I think and didn't bother checking if it needed any links. It seems to be running just fine.
However, I read, maybe on Sheldon Brown's site, that chains almost always need a link adding or removing.
If it's running ok, would be correct to not worry about it.
Thanks, Ed.
No, you need to check every gear, preferably while the bike is in a stand so you can see the rear derailleur while you are switching through all the gears. Usually a chain needs to be shortened, I'm guessing if you put the front in 1 and the rear in 7, your chain will be a floppin'.
I've got a cheapo 7-speed hybrid. I replaced the chain, a PC48, I think and didn't bother checking if it needed any links. It seems to be running just fine.
Quoted message said:
However, I read, maybe on Sheldon Brown's site, that chains almost always need a link adding or removing.
Quoted message said:
If it's running OK, would be correct to not worry about it.
Just see if it works on your large chainwheel and largest rear sprocket to see if the chain is long enough. Do this carefully, because if the chain is not long enough it can break the derailleur. The see if it runs in the other extreme but that isn't as important, because you generally don't ride the small chainwheel with the smaller sprockets and at worst the chain will hang slack or fall off.
To allow for large chain length differences, long arm touring derailleurs are made that can take up extra lengths of chain.
I've got a cheapo 7-speed hybrid. I replaced the chain, a PC48, I think and didn't bother checking if it needed any links. It seems to be running just fine. However, I read, maybe on Sheldon Brown's site, that chains almost always need a link adding or removing. If it's running ok, would be correct to not worry about it.
The directions in the PC48 package encouraged you to pull the chain around the largest front and largest rear, add 2 rivets then cut before passing the chain through the derailleurs. Did you use that method? It was the white paper with drawings in the plastic bag with your snap link.
p.s. next time use seven speed chain. Same price, wears longer, possibly better front shifts. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
I've got a cheapo 7-speed hybrid. I replaced the chain, a PC48, I think and didn't bother checking if it needed any links. It seems to be running just fine. However, I read, maybe on Sheldon Brown's site, that chains almost always need a link adding or removing. If it's running ok, would be correct to not worry about it.
Chris Nelson said:
No, you need to check every gear, preferably while the bike is in a stand so you can see the rear derailleur while you are switching through all the gears. Usually a chain needs to be shortened, I'm guessing if you put the front in 1 and the rear in 7, your chain will be a floppin'.
Chain sag at any given length depends greatly on the gear ratios and chainstay length, partly on the model of rear changer.
Agree that now is the time to double check. Before riding.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 22:02:15 -0500, A Muzi <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
p.s. next time use seven speed chain. Same price, wears longer, possibly better front shifts.
still me said:
Andrew: Does SRAM still sell a seven speed chain? Or are you referring to another manufacturer? I run seven speeds and vintage chainwheels... wondering if there's better shifting out there for me.
Yes there are vintage sevens out there but KMC has a current inexpensive 7.3mm chain and optional snap link for it. Look at one- the rivets protrude farther which helps vintage front changers.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
we lay the new and/or old chain out on a 1x4x6' for checking link count and chain stretch. Board marking the first link position then 10's or at 50/100-plus the next 12 or 14 may help confirm the process under the usual ongoing uproar. the problem in cross chaining to large front large count rear does happen sometimes when tired at 75 miles. rolling the CR and pushing the chain off the CR with a finger cures.