any glueless patches that work?

On 24 May 2004 09:19:38 -0700, [email hidden] (dan baker) may have

Quoted message said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

Same experience here.

Quoted message said:

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Someone reported good results if the tube is cleaned with an alcohol
cleaning cloth first. It didn't work for me.

Quoted message said:

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

Not me, so far. In fact, I had better results with a piece of carpet
repair tape than with the self-stick patches; long story, a case of
"use what's at hand or carry the bike home".

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

dan baker said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

In a word: no.

One of myLBS won't sell them unless you ask specifically. My personal
experience is that even when you get a good bond, the patch material
fails after extended use. I don't have a quantification of extended use;
maybe it's many hundreds of miles, maybe it's a few months. I learned my
lesson before I was able to determine the exact cause of failure.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

dvt said:

dan baker said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

In a word: no.

One of myLBS won't sell them unless you ask specifically. My personal
experience is that even when you get a good bond, the patch material
fails after extended use. I don't have a quantification of extended
use; maybe it's many hundreds of miles, maybe it's a few months. I
learned my lesson before I was able to determine the exact cause of
failure.

This has been my experience too. They work fine in the short term, but always
fail eventually. Sometimes it takes months, but eventually you'll wind up with
a slow leak. This is a real pain when you have several patches on one tube,
with more than one leaking or about to leak. Finally, replacing glueless
patches with real ones is a pain, because it's hard to get the adhesive off the
tube. I've had my run with glueless patches, and gone back to regular ones. At
least when I can...

The biggest problem with glued patches is that the glue tends to harden once the
tube is opened. Nothing's worse than being stuck on the road with a useless,
dried out tube of glue. So I still carry a few glueless patches.

Matt O.

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....
I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?
Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

Think of them as temporary get you home patches. I've used them and never
had one fail is as little time as your's have. I followed the directions
on the package, Park brand, and scuffed up the area before applying. My
patches were lasting right around a year before they failled. I use them
as a backup to the extra tube I carry. That way if I get more than one flat
on a ride I have a way to get home.
---------------
Alex

Quoted message said:

dan baker said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

The glueless patches just don't stand up well under the higher psi pressure
of road tires. They work much more reliably on my mountain bikes, however.

Julian

Quoted message said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

Quoted message said:

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

Contrary to other posters here, I've had great success with the Trek
pre-glued patches, which I believe are the same ones sold under the "Scabs"
label, and possibly others as well. I've found them permanent, providing
they stay in the tire (and it's kept inflated). The only time I've had an
issue with them is when I had one on a spare tube.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
IMBA, BikesBelong, NBDA member

"dan baker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

d

dan baker said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

Glueless (or, as we call them, clueless) patches are a temporary measure
to get you home, not a permanent patch. Once home, patch the tube with a
real, glued, patch.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
_`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
(_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

I would have to agree w/ the minority. I rarely have problems w/ park
glueless patches. I do clean the tire w/ an alcohol wipe prior to glueing to
assure a clean stick.
andy
"David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

dan baker said:

I've tried a couple brands of glueless patches: park and performance.
They seem to work ok for a little bit, but always seem to end up with
a slow leak about a week later....

I've tried applying with and without "roughing" with sandpaper and it
doesn't seem to matter. Is there some other secret to geting them to
really bond well?

Has anyone used any that create a really good patch?

Glueless (or, as we call them, clueless) patches are a temporary measure
to get you home, not a permanent patch. Once home, patch the tube with a
real, glued, patch.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
_`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
(_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

On Mon, 24 May 2004 18:38:46 GMT, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

The biggest problem with glued patches is that the glue tends to harden once the
tube is opened. Nothing's worse than being stuck on the road with a useless,
dried out tube of glue. So I still carry a few glueless patches.

Carry only unopened tubes of glue. A 97 cent Bell patch kit at Wal
Mart, even if you don't like the patches, includes the standard
little tube of perfectly good glue; and for home use, use the tubes
you've opened on the road before, or a jar of appropriate
glue/Elmer's Rubber Cement/contact cement (currently under
discussion in rec.bicycles.misc, and discussed in the past also).
--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian said:

On Mon, 24 May 2004 18:38:46 GMT, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

The biggest problem with glued patches is that the glue tends to harden once the
tube is opened. Nothing's worse than being stuck on the road with a useless,
dried out tube of glue. So I still carry a few glueless patches.

Carry only unopened tubes of glue. A 97 cent Bell patch kit at Wal
Mart, even if you don't like the patches, includes the standard
little tube of perfectly good glue; and for home use, use the tubes
you've opened on the road before, or a jar of appropriate
glue/Elmer's Rubber Cement/contact cement (currently under
discussion in rec.bicycles.misc, and discussed in the past also).

I almost always run out of patches before using the whole tube of glue.
I put the remaining glue in the next patch kit and keep using it with
the new, unopened, glue as an emergency spare. BTW, before I cap the
glue tube I spread a bit of glue around the threads to make the cap seal
better.

On Mon, 24 May 2004 18:57:44 -0700, Peter <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

BTW, before I cap the
glue tube I spread a bit of glue around the threads to make the cap seal
better.

I like that idea so much, I figured I'd quote it just to bring some
emphasis to it.
--
Rick Onanian

On Mon, 24 May 2004 18:38:46 GMT, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

The biggest problem with glued patches is that the glue tends to harden once the
tube is opened. Nothing's worse than being stuck on the road with a useless,
dried out tube of glue.

I've had that problem, too: two flats, dried out glue.

Since then I've operated on the theory that the air in the tube of
glue is what dries it out once it's been opened. So now after
patching, I squeeze the tube to remove the air, then screw the cap
back on. So far (ten years) it's worked.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The biggest problem with glued patches is that the glue tends to harden once the
tube is opened.

Hmm... I don't have that problem...I think that the biggest problem is that
the tubes are so flimsy that they get a pinhole and then the glue dries. I
know I've had tubes dry up that I've never-opened. I read here that that's
what is happening and that explanation jives with my experience.

Quoted message said:

Carry only unopened tubes of glue.

I say you have to open up your patch kit once every so often and verify
by weight that there is still glue in there. As long as you do so, you
can carry partially used tubes.

dkl