BB Noise problem narrowed down

Okay all,

I'm still attempting to solve a noise problem that I mentioned here before,
but I've now narrowed down the problem with the help of a LBS mechanic. The
guy was pretty good, but still not familiar with the newer external cup
bearings in general and the newer Campy record ones specifically. So, he's
certain that the problem is with the BB/Crank as he could flex the crank
arms slightly and produce the noise that I've been hearing, but he wasn't
certain exactly how to fix the problem.

We re-checked the torque on the large bolt holding the crank arms together
and that's okay. Also, the wavy washer is installed.

I thought that perhaps the BB shell might be slightly on the narrow side (I
measured it prior to installing the crank, and it was on the smaller side of
being within campy's specs, but I've faced it since). The instructions say
that if the shell is too narrow to add spacers between the shell and cups. I
thought that perhaps if the shell was a bit too narrow, it may not permit
the cups to properly support the bearings and would permit the flex and
subsequent noise. The other possibility is that the axles aren't coming
together properly. The other, I guess, is bad bearings, or something bad in
the cups. .perhaps I missed something?

..anyway, where would I get the bb shell spacers that the campy instructions
mention? I can't find anything on-line, but wouldn't expect to find
this. .not so sure that the local shops will have such things either. .and
would you install these spacers to bring the shell out to the
maximum on the specs? .and what would you suggest as a first step if not
using the spacers?

Jeff

--
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"Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Here's some additional info. I just bought this group and carefully
looked at the instructions before installation. They recommended using
loctite on the external cups only if you didn't have a torque wrench.
....but not having those instructions handy now, I downloaded another
copy from the campy web site. Interestingly, the install instructions have
now changed. They now say that the preferred method is to face and tap
the shell, degrease bb shell threads, and use Loctite 222 on the
cup/shell threads for maximum noise reduction.

I have not used Loctite - perhaps this is the problem?

--
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Jeff said:

I'm still attempting to solve a noise problem that I mentioned here before,
but I've now narrowed down the problem with the help of a LBS mechanic. The
guy was pretty good, but still not familiar with the newer external cup
bearings in general and the newer Campy record ones specifically. So, he's
certain that the problem is with the BB/Crank as he could flex the crank
arms slightly and produce the noise that I've been hearing, but he wasn't
certain exactly how to fix the problem.

We re-checked the torque on the large bolt holding the crank arms together
and that's okay. Also, the wavy washer is installed.

I thought that perhaps the BB shell might be slightly on the narrow side (I
measured it prior to installing the crank, and it was on the smaller side of
being within campy's specs, but I've faced it since). The instructions say
that if the shell is too narrow to add spacers between the shell and cups. I
thought that perhaps if the shell was a bit too narrow, it may not permit
the cups to properly support the bearings and would permit the flex and
subsequent noise. The other possibility is that the axles aren't coming
together properly. The other, I guess, is bad bearings, or something bad in
the cups. .perhaps I missed something?

.anyway, where would I get the bb shell spacers that the campy instructions
mention? I can't find anything on-line, but wouldn't expect to find
this. .not so sure that the local shops will have such things either. .and
would you install these spacers to bring the shell out to the
maximum on the specs? .and what would you suggest as a first step if not
using the spacers?

Is it a BSC bike? Measure that shell again and add an SA HMW127 hardened
spacer if needed or any similar 1.370" ID _flat_ spacer.

On an ITA frame you're going to go on a scavenger hunt for a 36mm ID spacer.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Jeff said:

.anyway, where would I get the bb shell spacers that the campy
instructions
mention? I can't find anything on-line, but wouldn't expect to find
this.

David L. Johnson said:

One off-the-wall idea is to tear apart an old freewheel, if you have
one. There is a screw-on cover on the "nose" end, which, when unscewed,
gives you access to those 6-million little ball bearings inside, and the
pawls and springs. You will not be able to put this particular
Humpty-Dumpty back together again. But there are spacers on that cover
that might well be the right size. They are very thin, too, so you can
adjust to suit.
No guarantees, but maybe it's worth a shot. Certainly cheaper than
Campagnolo brand spacers, if they did exist.

Clever thought but except for Normandy freewheels the spacing shims are
way too small for a BB cup.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"A Muzi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

problem solved

Okay, after going back and forth with this several times and speaking to at
least 3 different mechanics at 3 different LBStores, I think I have it
solved. ...a mechanic at a large store was able to get it narrowed down to
not the crank/bb but the rear hub. ...but he couldn't fix it. ...along comes
the sales manager who suggests pulling apart the new DT Swiss 240 hub's
cover on the non-drive side and greasing under and around the cover as well
as a few other places on the hub and where the hub and skewer contact the
frame. ...took it out for a short but hard ride and the thing was completely
silent. He figured that the cover (what a dust cover?) moving under the
pressure of a 210 pounder riding at 25 mph or so was causing it to rub
against the other parts. I wouldn't have known how to take the thing apart
without them showing me how - very simple - no tools.

Thanks for everyone's help.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Jeff said:

"A Muzi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

problem solved

Okay, after going back and forth with this several times and speaking to at
least 3 different mechanics at 3 different LBStores, I think I have it
solved. ...a mechanic at a large store was able to get it narrowed down to
not the crank/bb but the rear hub. ...but he couldn't fix it. ...along comes
the sales manager who suggests pulling apart the new DT Swiss 240 hub's
cover on the non-drive side and greasing under and around the cover as well
as a few other places on the hub and where the hub and skewer contact the
frame. ...took it out for a short but hard ride and the thing was completely
silent. He figured that the cover (what a dust cover?) moving under the
pressure of a 210 pounder riding at 25 mph or so was causing it to rub
against the other parts. I wouldn't have known how to take the thing apart
without them showing me how - very simple - no tools.

Thanks for everyone's help.

And thank you.
This goes into the list of unexpected places for noise problems.

--
Michael Press

Jeff said:

"A Muzi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

problem solved

Okay, after going back and forth with this several times and speaking to at
least 3 different mechanics at 3 different LBStores, I think I have it
solved. ...a mechanic at a large store was able to get it narrowed down to
not the crank/bb but the rear hub. ...but he couldn't fix it. ...along comes
the sales manager who suggests pulling apart the new DT Swiss 240 hub's
cover on the non-drive side and greasing under and around the cover as well
as a few other places on the hub and where the hub and skewer contact the
frame. ...took it out for a short but hard ride and the thing was completely
silent. He figured that the cover (what a dust cover?) moving under the
pressure of a 210 pounder riding at 25 mph or so was causing it to rub
against the other parts. I wouldn't have known how to take the thing apart
without them showing me how - very simple - no tools.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Well, no tools needed... ;-)
<http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/99a9c909-cc61-4fe4-b472-181391c86013/Datasheet.aspx>

Those are great hubs.

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

"Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Those are great hubs.

Lou

As long as the noise doesn't come back, I'll be glad I bought them. After
that small bit of grease, they were very silent for my quick 2-3 mile test
ride. ...couldn't believe how easy they were to get apart. Thanks for the
link. ...hopefully I won't have to do any maintenance for a few 10s of
thousands of miles.

Jeff

--
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Jeff said:

.anyway, where would I get the bb shell spacers that the campy
instructions mention? I can't find anything on-line, but wouldn't
expect to find this. .not so sure that the local shops will have such
things either. .and would you install these spacers to bring the
shell out to the maximum on the specs? .and what would you suggest
as a first step if not using the spacers?

Jeff

I realize you fixed the problem. However, bottom bracket spacers have
come up before. Try http://lightscrews.com go to the bottom bracket link.
Items 3, 4 and 5.

Steve