best lubrication

ridesaGT said:

lubrication seems to be my worst enemy, i've been using a product called chain wax. because its a spray on, it gets every where all over my chain rings and cassette, then when i ride, dirts just clings to it. this clogs up in the cassette, gunks up the chain and my recently tuned bike wont change gears properly and the chain jumps around like it has a fire cracker up its [censored]. what can i do, my lbs reckons that oils ruin your running gear because they are petroleum based?

I'de love to hear your comments on what brand you use, how you use it and how to best keep your bike running like a dream between services.........

thanks, rob

I've had really good luck with using White Lightning lubricant. I believe that it's wax based, but comes in a drip bottle. I drip it on the chain as I rotate the crank backwards, let it sit for an hour or so, and then wipe the excess off using a shop rag. A bottle lasts a long time, and is pretty cheap. I think it retails for around $6.

Over time you will get a little build-up on the cogs, chainrings, and derailleur pulleys, so you still have to clean your drivetrain on occasion.

Anything with teflon is going to go a long way.

You know... the catch-22 of chain lubes is that the best lubes also attract the most dirt.

The only thing you can do is keep your chain clean. Try Simple Green to get the old dirt and lube off.

ridesaGT said:

... my lbs reckons that oils ruin your running gear because they are petroleum based?

Get another LBS, there's nothing wrong with petroleum based lubes. The issue is dust and grit getting trapped in whatever product you're using, turning it into a grinding paste. Some "drier" lubes might catch a little less grit but it's a question of degress only. My best advice is wash and lube frequently, then it doesn't matter as much what you're using.

Here is my drill for keeping everything running smoothly. I do this for both my road and mountain bike every ride.

1. Spray the entire drivetrain down with Simple Green
2. Scrub the cogs and chain with a bristle brush
3. Wash all the gunk out with water from the hose
4. Blow all the water out with an air compressor
5. Lube

Changing out an entire Dura-Ace or XTR driveline is around $500. Keeping it clean will make it last many times as long. Plus the bike looks great, you never miss a shift, and you put more power to the ground.

imo, i say ky-jelly🙂

ky-jelly:eek: . All over or just on the shaft:p .

The problem most people have with chain lubricants is that they do not wipe the excess off after application and then wonder why so much dirt sticks to the chain after they ride.

I have heard some use lubricants designed for motorised dirt bikes. The manufacturers claim that the product is designed to fling the dirt off. This may be the case, but at what speed does the chain need to be travelling for the dirt to fling off and not stay attached to the chain😕 .

whackyscientist said:

ky-jelly:eek: . All over or just on the shaft:p .

The problem most people have with chain lubricants is that they do not wipe the excess off after application and then wonder why so much dirt sticks to the chain after they ride.

I have heard some use lubricants designed for motorised dirt bikes. The manufacturers claim that the product is designed to fling the dirt off. This may be the case, but at what speed does the chain need to be travelling for the dirt to fling off and not stay attached to the chain😕 .

Lately I've been using a product used for motorcycles, it is a white spray. It is liquid when applied so it should penetrate and after a little it like dries and stays put. It has worked fine and doesn't attrack dirt. I don't know the brand of this I think is Bel ray or something but I'm not sure.

whackyscientist said:

..I have heard some use lubricants designed for motorised dirt bikes.

I tried a spray-on motorcycle lube once. MAYBE it had to be that sticky to stay on during the considerably higher revs that motorcycle chains see, and MAYBE the extra airflow created by that would make it dry out some more. One thing is certain, I'm not keen to try THAT again. Once it got dirty it also stuck like glue, making it much harder than usual to clean the chain.

dabac said:

I tried a spray-on motorcycle lube once. MAYBE it had to be that sticky to stay on during the considerably higher revs that motorcycle chains see, and MAYBE the extra airflow created by that would make it dry out some more. One thing is certain, I'm not keen to try THAT again. Once it got dirty it also stuck like glue, making it much harder than usual to clean the chain.

Which one did you use? In motorcycles I've used one that was very sticky, if you touched it it left something like a spiderweb between your fingers and the treated surface. The one I use now dries almost inmediately is a white stuff, similar to the white lithium grease but more fluid and dries easlily.

Solanog said:

Which one did you use?

Its been years... I think it was manufactured by CRC.

I checked the lubricant I'm using as of now, it only says Bel Ray, chain lube super clean.

Sooooorry, When I Saw The Title Of This Forum, I Thought It Was Related To Another Issue...i'm Signing Out Of Here And Go To The Church To Cofession......ooooh!, I'm A Sinner!!!

Chain wax is [censored]. Honestly keeping the drivetrain running on a dirt bike is a pretty big pain in the ass. Every time I ride my mountain bike I clean the drivetrain with Simple Green, a brush and a hose, then re-lube with a petro based lube. If you want the driveline to last and shift well you have to clean it constantly. Think about it; the lube on your chain mixed with grit and dirt from riding turn into grinding paste. The longer you ride with that mix in moving parts the shorter they will last.

Thankfully the road bike only needs the same treatment every 100 miles or so.

ridesaGT said:

lubrication seems to be my worst enemy, i've been using a product called chain wax. because its a spray on, it gets every where all over my chain rings and cassette, then when i ride, dirts just clings to it. this clogs up in the cassette, gunks up the chain and my recently tuned bike wont change gears properly and the chain jumps around like it has a fire cracker up its [censored]. what can i do, my lbs reckons that oils ruin your running gear because they are petroleum based?

I'de love to hear your comments on what brand you use, how you use it and how to best keep your bike running like a dream between services.........

thanks, rob

IronDonut said:

Chain wax is [censored]. Honestly keeping the drivetrain running on a dirt bike is a pretty big pain in the ass. Every time I ride my mountain bike I clean the drivetrain with Simple Green, a brush and a hose, then re-lube with a petro based lube. If you want the driveline to last and shift well you have to clean it constantly. Think about it; the lube on your chain mixed with grit and dirt from riding turn into grinding paste. The longer you ride with that mix in moving parts the shorter they will last.

Thankfully the road bike only needs the same treatment every 100 miles or so.

You know, one type of lube probably won't work well in all riding conditions. I'm guessing you might live in an area that has a lot of mud. I ride in Southern California, which is mostly dry and dusty. Here, a wax based lube works fine. I wipe my chain down after every ride, and re-lube every second or third ride, and my drivetrain stays pretty clean.

To me, the biggest issue with maintaining your drivetrain is checking your chain for stretch. Nothing will wipe out your cogs & chainrings faster than a stretched chain. Replacing your chain at regular intervals is at least as important as cleaning.

Also, for great shifting, lubing the shift cables (in the cable housing) periodically is very important.