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UK and Europe
Published
18 April 2005
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20 April 2005
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ok
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  1. Hi,

    Can anyone help me before I pour out a fortune?
    I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    others going beyond a leisurely pace. I know I'm not that slow as I
    am fairly fit and have done a fair bit of long distance cycling on
    touring bikes on holidays. It's driving me nuts now and I don't want
    to pour money down the drain on it. Help!

    This is the make....
    http://www.bikesurgeon.com/products.php?plid=m1b2s18p15&tbv=GIANT_Cypress_FS_Ladies_BIKES_Leisure_Bikes_-_Hybrid_and_Trekking&PHPSESSID=11ab0a8aa92ead725e5997266e48ba09

    It's a Cypress FS Ladies Hybrid.

    Cheers,

    OK

  2. ps I am going to do the IOW randonnee.....don't think I will make it
    round on the speed this bike goes at.

  3. ok <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    : tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    : others going beyond a leisurely pace.

    First question: are the peope you are riding with on similar bikes or
    on road bikes? If it's the latter then you'll find it hard work to
    keep up. If the former, then you need to look at position, fit and
    fitness.

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    Don't get me wrong, perl is an OK operating system, but it lacks a
    lightweight scripting language -- Walter Dnes

  4. Make sure your tyres are pumped up to at least the highest pressure
    written on the side - it makes a huge amount of difference with wide
    tyres. If you haven't got a pump with a gauge, it will be money well
    spent.

    Also, long distance riding a few times a year won't increase your
    speed, riding daily will. The same with fitness - general fitness will
    mean as your train your progress will be quicker, but you still need to
    train on the bike if you want to cycle faster.

    As others have said, air resistance becomes a huge problem as soon as
    you get to around 25 kph, at lower speeds it doesn't matter so much.

  5. ok said:


    ps I am going to do the IOW randonnee.....don't think I will make it
    round on the speed this bike goes at.

    Plenty of people ride bikes like that on the Round the Island.

    The important thing is to make sure your position is correct.

    Of course you could always take the more relaxed option as there is also
    a 55km Midi-Randonnee this year that uses some of the converted railway
    tracks.

    John B

  6. Hi,

    Here is a nice versatile hybrid.
    http://www.kildemoes.dk/pages/bicycle.asp?brand=logic

    Light-weight strong and fast bike – good riding position and reasonably
    steep frame angles.

    I think a bike like this would suit your needs.

    Cheers

    Bjarne

    "ok" <[email hidden]> skrev i en meddelelse
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    Can anyone help me before I pour out a fortune?
    I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    others going beyond a leisurely pace. I know I'm not that slow as I
    am fairly fit and have done a fair bit of long distance cycling on
    touring bikes on holidays. It's driving me nuts now and I don't want
    to pour money down the drain on it. Help!

    This is the make....
    http://www.bikesurgeon.com/products.php?plid=m1b2s18p15&tbv=GIANT_Cypress_FS_Ladies_BIKES_Leisure_Bikes_-_Hybrid_and_Trekking&PHPSESSID=11ab0a8aa92ead725e5997266e48ba09

    It's a Cypress FS Ladies Hybrid.

    Cheers,

    OK

  7. Hello,

    Try wearing more aerodynamic riding gear. I noticed the difference!

    Cheers

    Peter.

    "ok" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    Can anyone help me before I pour out a fortune?
    I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    others going beyond a leisurely pace. I know I'm not that slow as I
    am fairly fit and have done a fair bit of long distance cycling on
    touring bikes on holidays. It's driving me nuts now and I don't want
    to pour money down the drain on it. Help!

    This is the make....
    http://www.bikesurgeon.com/products.php?plid=m1b2s18p15&tbv=GIANT_Cypress_FS_Ladies_BIKES_Leisure_Bikes_-_Hybrid_and_Trekking&PHPSESSID=11ab0a8aa92ead725e5997266e48ba09

    It's a Cypress FS Ladies Hybrid.

    Cheers,

    OK

  8. Jeremy Collins said:

    Is the fore/aft saddle position correct (i.e.
    is your knee directly over the pedal spindle with the pedals
    horizonal)?

    I came across this rule recently, whilst trying to find out how best to
    fit a bike. It was quite an interesting little exercise, and I learnt
    quite a lot. There are some persuasive arguments against the knee over the
    pedal rule.

    Search for "What about knee over the pedal axle?" on this site:

    http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

    Or, if you can afford half an hour, this page is devoted to the subject:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html

    It's interesting stuff (at least, it is if you know your bike doesn't
    quite fit).

    Graham

  9. Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, ok

    (') said:

    Can anyone help me before I pour out a fortune?
    I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    others going beyond a leisurely pace. I know I'm not that slow as I
    am fairly fit and have done a fair bit of long distance cycling on
    touring bikes on holidays. It's driving me nuts now and I don't want
    to pour money down the drain on it. Help!

    That bike is never going to be fast, it isn't designed to be. As others
    have said the riding position is too upright, so you've got too much
    aerodynamic drag. That said there are a number of things you can do.
    The first is to fit slick tyres (ones with no or virtually no tread
    pattern) and to pump them up very hard (100psi or higher). The second
    is to lower the handlebars as far as they'll go. Keep the seat up to a
    height where you're almost but not quite straightening your knee on
    each pedal stroke (see Jeremy Collins' post).

    But if you want to go faster the only real solution is to sell that bike
    and get another, one which has its saddle at least as high as its
    handlebars. Drop bars help, too, because they give you a choice between
    a moderately low riding position with your hands on the tops, or, when
    you're going faster or there's a strong headwind, a still lower riding
    position with your hands on the bends or drops.

    Thanks for the advice. It makes sense. However I'm a little confused
    in general though about this type of bike. I cycled on a touring
    upright bike in France approx 50 miles a day at a fast pace. Never
    had any trouble reaching high speeds on it. I also cycled for a week
    in Ireland, also on roads and on a touring bike and again had no
    problems going fast. My bike does not look dissimilar to those two.
    Why can I only go at a leisurely pace on this? How would I have known
    in advance?

  10. ok said:

    Thanks for the advice. It makes sense. However I'm a little confused
    in general though about this type of bike. I cycled on a touring
    upright bike in France approx 50 miles a day at a fast pace. Never
    had any trouble reaching high speeds on it. I also cycled for a week
    in Ireland, also on roads and on a touring bike and again had no
    problems going fast. My bike does not look dissimilar to those two.
    Why can I only go at a leisurely pace on this? How would I have known
    in advance?

    You'd have to show us a picture of the bike you rode in France. OTOH, the
    bike could be very similar, but perhaps you were riding with different
    people in France, or everyone was riding the same sort of bike, so the fact
    that sprinting speeds weren't actually very high compared to on road bikes,
    but there was no major difference between riders.

  11. Thanks. I just looked at the holiday company's website and I think
    they have changed the bikes. However the new ones they use are also
    upright hybrids albeit the handlebars are a little lower than mine.
    Also the distances would be the same and the pace would be faster than
    a leisurely pace so I assume the below can reach high speeds. Still a
    little confused why mine is so rubbish.

    http://www.trekbike.co.uk/2005/city_path_hybrid_fx/display_page.php?section=home&form_bike=7300%20FX#

    If you can't read that link it's a trek 7300 fx.

  12. in message <[email hidden]>, ok

    (') said:

    Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, ok

    (') said:

    Can anyone help me before I pour out a fortune?
    I bought this bike 2nd hand about a year ago. I have never really
    tried to sprint on it and always found it difficult to keep up with
    others going beyond a leisurely pace. I know I'm not that slow as
    I am fairly fit and have done a fair bit of long distance cycling
    on
    touring bikes on holidays. It's driving me nuts now and I don't
    want
    to pour money down the drain on it. Help!

    That bike is never going to be fast, it isn't designed to be. As
    others have said the riding position is too upright, so you've got
    too much aerodynamic drag. That said there are a number of things you
    can do. The first is to fit slick tyres (ones with no or virtually no
    tread pattern) and to pump them up very hard (100psi or higher). The
    second is to lower the handlebars as far as they'll go. Keep the seat
    up to a height where you're almost but not quite straightening your
    knee on each pedal stroke (see Jeremy Collins' post).

    But if you want to go faster the only real solution is to sell that
    bike and get another, one which has its saddle at least as high as
    its handlebars. Drop bars help, too, because they give you a choice
    between a moderately low riding position with your hands on the tops,
    or, when you're going faster or there's a strong headwind, a still
    lower riding position with your hands on the bends or drops.

    Thanks for the advice. It makes sense. However I'm a little confused
    in general though about this type of bike. I cycled on a touring
    upright bike in France approx 50 miles a day at a fast pace. Never
    had any trouble reaching high speeds on it. I also cycled for a week
    in Ireland, also on roads and on a touring bike and again had no
    problems going fast. My bike does not look dissimilar to those two.
    Why can I only go at a leisurely pace on this? How would I have known
    in advance?

    The critical issue is the angle of your torso to the horizontal. On your
    bike, the saddle is significantly lower than and quite close to the
    handlebars. Consequently, you must sit more or less upright or else
    your arms will be uncomfortably flexed. Also, the bars are fairly wide,
    causing you to hold your arms open. Compare with a time-trial bike e.g.
    <URL:http://www.london2012.org/en/news/archive/2005/january/2004-01-06-18-00.htm>
    - the handlebars are much lower than the saddle and the rider's torso
    is almost horizontal, while the hands and forearms are very close
    together.

    Cycling aerodynamics are not straightforward because the human body is
    not a very aerodynamic shape. However, aerodynamic drag at best
    increases in proportion to the square of the speed[1]. To get some
    feeling of what this means, if you cycle on a racing bike on a flat
    road on a windless day

    at ten miles per hour your power input is about twelve watts
    at twenty miles per hour it's about ninety watts
    at thirty miles per hour it's about three hundred watts

    Clearly, these are big differences, and the more you can do to minimise
    them the better.

    At a crude level aerodynamic drag relates to 'frontal area'. That is to
    say, if you took a lifesize photograph of yourself cycling with the
    camera straight in front of the bike, and then you cut around yourself,
    the area of the piece of paper you'd get. This isn't perfect because it
    doesn't account for turbulence but it's a good first approximation.
    Clearly, if you're sitting upright you'll look quite a bit bigger in
    the photograph than if you're really crouched down - your frontal area
    can be at least half again bigger sitting upright than crouched.

    At ten miles an hour that isn't much difference, because sitting up
    merely increases that twelve watts to eighteen watts, and at eighteen
    watts your body is barely ticking over. But at thirty miles per hour
    its an increase from three hundred to four hundred and fifty watts, and
    that's taking you into serious athlete territory.

    Obviously there's a trade-off with comfort[2]. But on a well set up bike
    a racing crouch does not have to be uncomfortable (although it
    certainly takes getting used to). But in simple terms, a fast bike has
    its handlebars lower than its seat.

    [1] in practice it may be much worse than this, because of turbulence
    and vortex shedding.
    [2] unless you choose a recumbent, where better aerodynamics can mean
    greater comfort.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they
    ;; do it from  religious conviction."          -- Pascal

  13. in message <[email hidden]>, ok

    (') said:

    Thanks. I just looked at the holiday company's website and I think
    they have changed the bikes. However the new ones they use are also
    upright hybrids albeit the handlebars are a little lower than mine.
    Also the distances would be the same and the pace would be faster than
    a leisurely pace so I assume the below can reach high speeds. Still a
    little confused why mine is so rubbish.


    http://www.trekbike.co.uk/2005/city_path_hybrid_fx/display_page.php?section=home&form_bike=7300%20FX#

    Quoted message said:


    If you can't read that link it's a trek 7300 fx.

    If you look at that bike you'll see the seat is more or less the same
    height as the bars, so riding it your torso is angled forward at about
    50-60 degrees from the horizontal. At 50 degrees you have about 20%
    less aerodynamic drag than upright, so that's a useful difference.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    The trouble with Simon is that he only opens his mouth to change feet.
    ;; of me, by a 'friend'

  14. ok <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : http://www.trekbike.co.uk/2005/city_path_hybrid_fx/display_page.php?section=home&form_bike=7300%20FX#

    Lower bars and no suspension make a lot of difference.

    It's not that your bike is rubbish, it's just designed for different things.

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    Don't get me wrong, perl is an OK operating system, but it lacks a
    lightweight scripting language -- Walter Dnes

  15. Graham Ashton said:
    Jeremy Collins said:

    Is the fore/aft saddle position correct (i.e.
    is your knee directly over the pedal spindle with the pedals
    horizonal)?

    I came across this rule recently, whilst trying to find out how best to
    fit a bike. It was quite an interesting little exercise, and I learnt
    quite a lot. There are some persuasive arguments against the knee over the
    pedal rule.

    Yes, I've read that stuff too, but I find "KOPS" is a good starting
    point from which to experiment, and is an easiliy memorable rule of
    thumb for initial setup.

    --
    jc

    Remove the -not from email

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