Bike Build Journal

I wish you the best of luck on this project. It sounds as if you have everything well planned. You may want to test fit your Shimano 600 brakes to your frame. The front will probably be OK but the rear might give you a little trouble.

Climbing_Eben said:

Hey all! I am fairly new to the sport (atleast at a competitive level) and am in the process of building my first "high end" bike. So far.. I have bought the the components completely off of ebay, be they used or new (I have nearly no money, I am a college student). Anyways, I just thought i would put a journal of my progress on here and maybe you all can catch some of my pit falls and folleys before I make a costly mistake. As it is right now, I am pretty far along on buying the components and nearly have a complete bike. I was hoping you all could critique my list here and there with your endless knowledge and experience. So far.. this is what I have.....

-2000 Giant CFR Team frame Full Carbon. (The frame has not been ridden)
-Vuelta Comp XRP Wheels (they were very affordable, I would like to get some Zipp carbon wheels though)
- Dura- Ace rear and front derailleurs (7800) Both brand new.
- FSA Pro Carbon Crank ISIS Drive (used, but following the affordable trend)
- Shimano 600 brakes (used)
- Forte Precision Aluminum Handlebars
- Giant Carbon Stem
- Look Carbon Bartape (hahaha)
- Michelin Pro 2 race tires
- Ascent carbon seat post
- Selle san Marco Panza Saddle
- Xpedo pedals by Welgo (They were only $5.00 brand new, i can always upgrade.)

That is what I have so far... This is what I have left to get....

- Gear Shifts/Break Levers (I am torn between Ultegra & 105. Keep in mind my financial situation and the fact that I am not a professional rider)
- A bottom bracket ( I need ISIS drive)
- A rear cassette ( I believe I will go with the ultegra 10 spd 6600)
- A chain

This is what I've got going so far. I am very excited to get this bike going and head out into some races. Here are some pictures of my frame. Thank you all for your suggestions, comments, and criticisms... All are welcome here.

You might consider 9 speed as the cost is lower.
You might catch someone who is "upgrading" from 9 to 10 speed and be able to get a very reasonable price for the Brifters/chain/cassette.

Thank you for the great comments and encouragement!!!

1. I had assumed that most brakes were a pretty much 1 size fits all kind of situation. I will definately check the back brakes when I get home. Will it be that I'll have a hard time mounting them, or that they will not meet the rims at the correct spot?

2. I did realize that 9 speed would probably be much cheaper.... after I already purchased my derailleurs. After getting my rear 10 spd. Dura-Ace derailleur brand new for $75, I've decided to stick it out. Thank you for the money saving tip though, I can use as many of those as I can get!

THANK YOU ALL!!!!!

If you buy used STI-type shifters, check on their lubrication status before you mount them, and figure out how to keep them lubed. This is a good preventive measure.

You may need a bike stand. Your best bet it to borrow a good one if you can. If not, hit them up on eBay. You can get a cheap stand for $25 at DiscountTommy or some such, but you'll need to modify it so you don't damage the frame. You'll need to cut out the downtube holder (it's plastic) to allow for your shift cables, and you'll need to modify the clamp with padding so you don't crush that carbon. You would also do well to buy a couple of $5 clamps at Home Depot or something to stabilize things.

It's not a great stand, or even a good one, but it works reasonably well and you can always sell it or give it away if you decide not to build any more bikes. If you're at Carroll College, you'll have until it thaws up there to build away....

Another easy stand is to borrow someone's roller trainer, and mount a old wheel/tire on back to hold the bike up, and put the forks on the front fork mount. This leaves the frame unfettered for mounting brakes, crankset, stems, etc.

Be sure to lube where you can in advance, and make sure all the parts are cleaned well and lubricated before you assemble. It's a whole lot easier done beforehand.

Good luck, and keep us updated, then send that last pic with the bar wrap enjoy it.

Climbing_Eben said:

Thank you for the great comments and encouragement!!!

1. I had assumed that most brakes were a pretty much 1 size fits all kind of situation. I will definately check the back brakes when I get home. Will it be that I'll have a hard time mounting them, or that they will not meet the rims at the correct spot?

2. I did realize that 9 speed would probably be much cheaper.... after I already purchased my derailleurs. After getting my rear 10 spd. Dura-Ace derailleur brand new for $75, I've decided to stick it out. Thank you for the money saving tip though, I can use as many of those as I can get!

THANK YOU ALL!!!!!

On your #2.: 10 speed Dura Ace Rear Derailer works well with 9 speed shifter/cassette/chain combination. I know, I used it that way for over a year.

Climbing_Eben said:

Thank you for the great comments and encouragement!!!

1. I had assumed that most brakes were a pretty much 1 size fits all kind of situation. I will definately check the back brakes when I get home. Will it be that I'll have a hard time mounting them, or that they will not meet the rims at the correct spot?

2. I did realize that 9 speed would probably be much cheaper.... after I already purchased my derailleurs. After getting my rear 10 spd. Dura-Ace derailleur brand new for $75, I've decided to stick it out. Thank you for the money saving tip though, I can use as many of those as I can get!

THANK YOU ALL!!!!!

The brake issue is that Shimano 600 brakes were made only up until the mid 1990's when the name was changed to Ultegra. It was basically the same brake with a different name. When CF frames came out, Shimano changed some of the dimensions of the mounting hardware. You may be OK since your frame is a 2000 frame, but you might have to alter the brake mounting a little bit if it doesn't fit. Just test it first and worry about the engineering only if you have to. The reach should be OK as long as you are going to use 700C wheels.

Wow, I can't believe the amount of responses. So many helpful cyclists out there!

As far as building a stand goes... I am lucky enough to have a close buddy who works at a bike shop. South Shore Cyclery. We will have access to all of thier tools and gear. Should make the process easier, not to mention his all around know how will help quite a bit.

As for the brakes.. It sounds like I found my first advantage to having an older frame (besides cost of course).

In the 10 spd vs. 9 spd conversation. I was unaware that a 10 spd dura-ace derailleur would work with 9 spd shifters. Are there any negatives associated with this?

Climbing_Eben said:

In the 10 spd vs. 9 spd conversation. I was unaware that a 10 spd dura-ace derailleur would work with 9 spd shifters. Are there any negatives associated with this?

The shifters determine the indexing from gear to gear, not the derailleur. The derailleur has to have enough motion from stop to stop to drive from the smallest to tallest gear, and a 10 speed derailleur (at least in my experience) has a little more or the same range of motion as a 9 speed. You just adjust the limit screws to where they need to be at the outermost limits both ways. If you haven't already go to the Shimano website and download the service instructions like : bike.shimano.comSI 5V50D En v1 m56577569830605234.pdfOpen ↗

for all your components, including the exploded views.

I found these useful for the first 5-6 bikes I assembled before almost memorizing them 🙂 They are product specific, but things like adjusting a derailleur hasn't changed much in the last 30 years. Brifters - now that's a whole nuther ball of wax. I would never take one apart if I could help it , and you shouldn't have to. Just remember to click both black levers all the way down before installing the cable or adjusting tension.

Follow the directions in getting the chain length right too - it makes a difference in how much chainslap and/or tension you have. Having the right tools sounds like not a problem if you have a friend in the biz. Things like cable cutters, a chain whip, and the right wrenches (including getting the torques right on the BB and the crankarms) are important as far as the creaks and groans your bike will make after assembly. Also don't get discouraged if the cables stretch a little when new and you have adjust the derailleurs (for me the front one seems the most tricky). The brake cables and housing all seem to set themselves pretty quickly with a few firm pulls on the levers.

Grease up the BB upon installation as suggested. A can of white lithium grease is what I use on it and the headset. Seems to work well. Stick with drylube on the chain and derailleurs - you will collect a lot less junk upon riding and you just have to keep up with it - every ride. Liquid wrench makes it in a big spray can you can get it at Home Depot.

I highly suggest inline cable adjusters for the derailleur cables both front and rear, and installing them up where you can reach them - up by the shifters. This allows for cable tension adjustment on the fly. Buying GOOD cables makes a diff too - like DuraAce, and lube them upon installation. Getting the bends in the cables to be smooth, while making them as short as possible in most cases (reduced friction, but with no sharp bends) can really make a difference in smooth shifting. Make sure you have access to enough cable housing ends, the kits never seem to come with enough (although I usually install topside CX style extra levers too - which you probably won't want to do with a racing bike and end up needing more).

So have FUN ! It is a pretty rewarding experience to ride your own assembled by hand, custom picked compenent, fully tweaked in bike !!

Geo

Climbing_Eben said:

I was unaware that a 10 spd dura-ace derailleur would work with 9 spd shifters. Are there any negatives associated with this?

None whatsoever.

Update**

I've decided to go 10spd and have purchased an ultegra cs-6600 cassette. I will be getting ultegra gear shifts soon and then I will be riding my bike!!

Does anyone have any suggestions for a bottom bracket?

Climbing_Eben said:

Update**

I've decided to go 10spd and have purchased an ultegra cs-6600 cassette. I will be getting ultegra gear shifts soon and then I will be riding my bike!!

Does anyone have any suggestions for a bottom bracket?

FSA makes the most complete line of them, some Race Face & Trvativ ones out there too. Shop with those names in mind, but understand that there are ones that will work best for the specific crank you have as far as chain line. Get those specifications first so you get the right length.

Climbing_Eben said:

Hey all! I am fairly new to the sport (atleast at a competitive level) and am in the process of building my first "high end" bike. So far.. I have bought the the components completely off of ebay, be they used or new (I have nearly no money, I am a college student). Anyways, I just thought i would put a journal of my progress on here and maybe you all can catch some of my pit falls and folleys before I make a costly mistake. As it is right now, I am pretty far along on buying the components and nearly have a complete bike. I was hoping you all could critique my list here and there with your endless knowledge and experience. So far.. this is what I have.....

-2000 Giant CFR Team frame Full Carbon. (The frame has not been ridden)
-Vuelta Comp XRP Wheels (they were very affordable, I would like to get some Zipp carbon wheels though)
- Dura- Ace rear and front derailleurs (7800) Both brand new.
- FSA Pro Carbon Crank ISIS Drive (used, but following the affordable trend)
- Shimano 600 brakes (used)
- Forte Precision Aluminum Handlebars
- Giant Carbon Stem
- Look Carbon Bartape (hahaha)
- Michelin Pro 2 race tires
- Ascent carbon seat post
- Selle san Marco Panza Saddle
- Xpedo pedals by Welgo (They were only $5.00 brand new, i can always upgrade.)

That is what I have so far... This is what I have left to get....

- Gear Shifts/Break Levers (I am torn between Ultegra & 105. Keep in mind my financial situation and the fact that I am not a professional rider)
- A bottom bracket ( I need ISIS drive)
- A rear cassette ( I believe I will go with the ultegra 10 spd 6600)
- A chain

This is what I've got going so far. I am very excited to get this bike going and head out into some races. Here are some pictures of my frame. Thank you all for your suggestions, comments, and criticisms... All are welcome here.

My brother in law used to be Dean of Admissions at Carroll College. Scott Goplin..heard of him?

Just remember, in your "need for speed," the engine that drives the whole thing-you. Few people can build their way to victory on a bike. Triathletes actually began the huge push for aero, weight, etc because there's no draft. One of the more successful said it well, "I'd rather lose two pounds than spend another grand trying to take one pound off the bike," or something to that effect. The difference between your wheels and Zips may be better handled by training and diet. Find a good balance, and remember to geek up on your regimen, diet, and workouts as much as the bike itself. Get the best bike you can build, know it like no other, and ride it like you stole it. Your posts are great, by the way.

Hey Rob,

Thank you for the great advice. I've been recieving a lot of input like that, and I must say, it makes sense. Our team now has three official coaches, one being the head coach of the track and feild team. I have always considered myself to be in very good shape (I ran the 3200 all through highschool and have completed a marathon with my dad), but I am quickly realizing that competetive cycling requires a whole new level of fitness. This should prove to be the toughest spring of my life...... I can't wait! A friend and I have scheduled out our plan to work in the 7-week format that lance armstrong's coach wrote about. It sounds like it should be quite the challenge. I can see where losing a pound or two from my mid-section would be much cheaper and much more beneficial than spending $200 to lose 100 grams in my groupo. I am really excited to get to know the abilities and limitations of both myself and my bike. Let's face it... I'm no millionair, I'm no genetic god like Lance, and unlike Jan, I've never really taken to the idea of I.V. drugs, so I suppose I just need to train with a purpose, get as physically fit as is possible for me, and most importantly..... GET SMART!!! Trust me, I will be here constantly asking questions! Thank you for being here, everyone~!!

Peter, was he the dean of admissions at Carroll College in Waukesha, Wisconsin, or Carroll College in Helena Montana?

I will search him!

You will get to know your bike trainer well before it thaws, whether you're in Helena or Waukesha, though Waukesha has more lager options, I'd bet. Lacking that, go abuse a club's spinning cycle. Don't hesitate to schedule a 10K run here and there, get the aerobic threshold up, and maybe a criterium or two just for fun and to see what its like to go hard for 30 straight minutes.

If you get injured, hit the water if you can. Set periodic goals and start considering food and sleep as fuel. A cheap read is also the biking part of Dave Scott's Triathlon Training, can get on line for a couple bucks.

Good luck.

Hey all!!

Today I inflated the tires and everything... assembled the rear cassette (Ultegra CS-6600 10spd), the brakes, the saddle and everything little. Just wanted to make sure the frame really fit me well so if I needed a change, I could buy it now. As of right now, the frame really seems to fit me well. I really lucked out here (cross your fingers, knock on wood). I must say, this bad machine is looking sharp.

I've got a quick question.... It appears that the headset on this particular bike is a threaded headset. I currently have a stem that is not for a threaded headset (so i've been told). I just want to know if there is an adapter out there to change from a threaded to an unthreaded headset without changing out the fork (as the aero carbon fork matches the paint scheme on the bike). I was also wondering what integrated vs. unintegrated headsets are. This subject has kind of baffled me lately, and I have no found much help in the literature. I'm sure my type of headset is slightly outdated.....

I promise that I will do all in my power to post some updated pics tonight. It's going to be tough though, I've got quite a bit of homework to do today. Thank you all for listening and helping me inch closer and closer to my dream. You all rock!

- Eben

P.S. Today, all of my classes were cancelled due to the more than 15 inches of snow on the ground outside.... How discouraging is that for some just itching to get on the bike..... I can feel the hills rolling beneath my tires... I can smell it!!! Winter...... Your time is done!!! I need to move out of Wisconsin!!!!

Climbing_Eben said:

Hey all!!
<SNIP>

I've got a quick question.... It appears that the headset on this particular bike is a threaded headset. I currently have a stem that is not for a threaded headset (so i've been told). I just want to know if there is an adapter out there to change from a threaded to an unthreaded headset without changing out the fork (as the aero carbon fork matches the paint scheme on the bike).
<SNIP>

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=1594

and others like that one.

Weather down heare near Chicago isn't great for riding either.
Integrated headsets are designed around special frame "bulges"; so you don't need to worry about them with you current bicycle.... and I don't think it is worth the trouble/limited availability/proprietary approach, etc. See what Chris King says:

http://www.chrisking.com/tech/int_headsets_explained/int_hds_explain_2.html

Thanks Dave!
Do you think that adapter will work with my frame? I hope so! That would be a money saver! I'm originally from the Chicago "area"... Woodstock. My parents are down there right now braving the snow as well. If you get the chance to see any Midwestern Collegiate Cycling races... check it out!! You'll see me donning my Giant! Be able to see the product of all of your help!

[font=Arial]What you want is a quill converter. Look at the photos of my purple and yellow Ironman at the Cycling Forums photo gallery, under Rob Tunes.[/font]

[font=Arial]If you hit quill converter on eBay, you'll find a bunch. Try to find a light one, and the new ones are just as cheap as the used ones. Then, you just put your stem on that. The part of the quill that goes down into the threaded headset/fork is 22.2m, generally. You may want to measure to make sure. The top of the quill converter, or quill adapter, is bigger and will accept your stem no problem. As long as the stem also holds your bar, you're in cotton.[/font]

[font=Arial]Sizes vary, but not always that much. Start at the quill, then look at your bars. You need to pick a stem that goes between the two. Newer bars are bigger in diameter at the clamp. I'd bet you need a quill size of 22.2, and the top will fit your stem no problem, then just bolt in your bar and keep on gettin' it.[/font]
[font=Arial]78 degrees today, before the storm that messed up the rest of the south came through. I rode 21, but the "back 9" was small ring territory with headwinds of 20, gusting to 40. Good time to work on spinning, then grab a brew and watch UNC-Duke play with the orange ball.[/font]