Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Bike ID please

Started by Squid-In-Traini · · Last activity · 8 posts · 603 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
7 August 2003
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8 August 2003
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Squid-In-Traini
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  1. I have a new acquisition. It's a Miyata from who-knows-when. Here are the stats:

    /miyata.html"]http://plaza.ufl.edu/phillee/[censored]/miyata.html

    Hubs: Campy Spokes: DT straight Rims: Arc-en-something 700c (need help) QRs: Campy Brake levers:
    Superbe/AME Shifters: Shimano 600 Tires: Clement CF2001 Bars: Cinelli Stem: Cinelli Cranks: Superbe
    Freewheel: ? Chain: ? (too greasy to read) Front Der: Suntour Rear Der: Suntour Brakes: I forget
    Seat: I forget Seatpost: I think it's actually steel painted grey to look like alum. Headset:
    Shimano 600

    Frame/Fork: Miyata (model name?????)

    I would really like to know when this bike was made, and which model it might be. Does anyone have a
    clue about this bike? Specifically the rims, brake levers, and frame model.

    Next, is that BB shell going to fail? It's got a lot of rust on it, and I'm wondering if the gurus
    here think that it's not salvageable. Even the serial is partly missing. Should I scrub that area
    clean and paint it back up? This will most likely be a campus commuter and probably will be sitting
    in the rain often.

    And finally, how much would it be worth to sell now? $100? $150 even? I'm sure that if I kept it in
    decent working order, it'd be worth more later, huh?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  2. I have a Miyata 912 that is late 70 or early 80 vintage and the frame looks very similar. Mine has all Shimano 600 series parts and araya wheels. I know they made one model above mine at the time called a team and it was about the color blue in your photos.

    I took it all apart and cleaned and lubed everything this winter. When I got to the bottom bracket, I didn't have the right tool to remove it and I took it to my LBS. They opened it up for me and suggested I just replace the discrete bearings with a sealed standard BB which is what I did. Cost was @ $20.

    Good luck with it.

  3. Quoted message said:

    I took it all apart and cleaned and lubed everything this winter. When I got to the bottom
    bracket, I didn't have the right tool to remove it and I took it to my LBS. They opened it up for
    me and suggested I just replace the discrete bearings with a sealed standard BB which is what I
    did. Cost was @ $20.

    The BB itself is good. No real need to replace it. My concern is the shell... you see the condition
    it's in, lol. But it's good that it looks like you didn't spend much to overhaul it.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  4. Quoted message said:

    The BB itself is good. No real need to replace it. My concern is the shell... you see the
    condition it's in, lol. But it's good that it looks like you didn't spend much to overhaul it.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

    Nice find, looks like it was salted at some point in its life.

    Remove the components from the shell. Take a rotary wire brush in a drill and attack the shell to
    remove the bubbled paint and rust and see what is left. Take care not to f the threads. With the
    drainage holes it should be easy to see how much meat is left.

    My guess is that it looks worse than it is, rust expands like crazy. Check with a sharp awl for any
    "soft" spots or holes. If you don't find any problems rust primer and paint should work for a
    campus cruiser.

    Coat the f out of all the inside of the frame, even the seat and chainstays with heated boiled
    linseed oil or framesaver

    Good luck,

    Marcus

  5. "Even the serial is partly missing."

    That's always a good sign....

    Well, it is an old frame. Good luck with it. If you do clean it up make sure you use some
    Frame Saver.

    "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a new acquisition. It's a Miyata from who-knows-when. Here are


    the

    Quoted message said:

    stats:

    /miyata.html"]http://plaza.ufl.edu/phillee/[censored]/miyata.html

    Hubs: Campy Spokes: DT straight Rims: Arc-en-something 700c (need help) QRs: Campy Brake levers:
    Superbe/AME Shifters: Shimano 600 Tires: Clement CF2001 Bars: Cinelli Stem: Cinelli Cranks:
    Superbe Freewheel: ? Chain: ? (too greasy to read) Front Der: Suntour Rear Der: Suntour Brakes: I
    forget Seat: I forget Seatpost: I think it's actually steel painted grey to look like alum.
    Headset: Shimano 600

    Frame/Fork: Miyata (model name?????)

    I would really like to know when this bike was made, and which model it might be. Does anyone have
    a clue about this bike? Specifically the


    rims,

    Quoted message said:

    brake levers, and frame model.

    Next, is that BB shell going to fail? It's got a lot of rust on it, and


    I'm

    Quoted message said:

    wondering if the gurus here think that it's not salvageable. Even the serial is partly missing.
    Should I scrub that area clean and paint it


    back

    Quoted message said:

    up? This will most likely be a campus commuter and probably will be


    sitting

    Quoted message said:

    in the rain often.

    And finally, how much would it be worth to sell now? $100? $150 even?


    I'm

    Quoted message said:

    sure that if I kept it in decent working order, it'd be worth more later, huh?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  6. Phil said:

    I have a new acquisition. It's a Miyata from who-knows-when. Here are the stats:

    Quoted message said:

    /miyata.html"]http://plaza.ufl.edu/phillee/[censored]/miyata.html

    Quoted message said:

    I would really like to know when this bike was made, and which model it might be. Does anyone have
    a clue about this bike? Specifically the rims, brake levers, and frame model.

    I'd guess at late seventies to early eighties. The rims are Super Champion 'Arc-en-Ciel' model
    (French for 'rainbow'😉. The Clement tyres are tubulars, glued to the rims. The hubs are Campagnolo
    Nuovo Tipo. The brake levers are Suntour Superbe with AME hoods. No idea about the frame model,
    I'm afraid.

    If you want to narrow the date down, look for date codes on the components - for example on the rear
    of the brake calipers. Campag hubs often have a date code stamped on the cone locknuts, but the
    wheels are probably not original to the bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Next, is that BB shell going to fail? It's got a lot of rust on it, and I'm wondering if the gurus
    here think that it's not salvageable. Even the serial is partly missing. Should I scrub that area
    clean and paint it back up? This will most likely be a campus commuter and probably will be
    sitting in the rain often.

    I don't think the BB shell is in any danger of failing, but it would be prudent to take off the rust
    with a wire brush, sand back to bare metal, and give it a protective coat of paint.

    Quoted message said:

    And finally, how much would it be worth to sell now? $100? $150 even?

    Certainly sub-$100 I would say. Probably sub $50. But I don't know what factors might affect your
    local market. Nothing on the bike is collectable.

    James Thomson

  7. "James Thomson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    <snip info>

    Thanks for the info/advice - will clean it up and get it looking new!

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  8. Quoted message said:

    Nice find, looks like it was salted at some point in its life.

    Ah, that's possible. Seems like corrosives got under the paint at the gigantic drainage holes and
    then expanded from there.

    Quoted message said:

    Remove the components from the shell. Take a rotary wire brush in a drill and attack the shell to
    remove the bubbled paint and rust and see what is left. Take care not to f the threads. With the
    drainage holes it should be easy to see how much meat is left.

    My guess is that it looks worse than it is, rust expands like crazy. Check with a sharp awl for
    any "soft" spots or holes. If you don't find any problems rust primer and paint should work for a
    campus cruiser.

    Coat the f out of all the inside of the frame, even the seat and chainstays with heated boiled
    linseed oil or framesaver

    Thanks for all the advice!

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

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