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BMC bike size. 56 - 58cm?

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22 October 2006
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11 November 2006
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cwebs
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  1. I'm looking at buying an 05 BMC SL01 and need to determine the appropriate bike size for me. I have long legs and a short torso and so I'm not sure if I should opt for a 56cm or a 58cm. Thoughts?

    I went through the competitivecyclist fitment calculator and these are the results:

    Seat tube range c-c 57.0 - 57.5
    Seat tube range c-t 58.8 - 59.3
    Top tube length 56.2 - 56.6
    Stem Length 11.7 - 12.3
    BB-Saddle Position 79.2 - 81.2
    Saddle-Handlebar 55.7 - 56.3
    Saddle Setback 6.1 - 6.5
    Seatpost Type NON-SETBACK

    My particulars entered into CC's online calculator:
    Gender M
    Inseam 88 cm
    Trunk 63 cm
    Forearm 37.5 cm
    Arm 69 cm
    Thigh 62 cm
    Lower Leg 57 cm
    Sternal Notch 148 cm
    Total Body Height 180 cm

    http://www.bmc-cycling.com/sl01.html - scroll down for frame geometry.

  2. I saw BMC and couldn't stop myself.......

    I seriously suggest the 56cm. The head tube length, after 56, becomes ridiculous. Stem lengths change, head tubes don't.

    Also, a 56 will be lighter, stiffer etc etc.

    The traditional geometry will suit your long legs as well, plus it is a much closer match to the fit system, as the 58 is nearly a 60cm seat tube, compared to a 56.5cm seat tube.

    Go the 56.

  3. I have ridden this frame. The geometry for BMC frames is not that user friendly. If anything, go smaller when choosing a BMC frame size and make adjustments with your stem length.

    A word of caution...although this is one of the coolest looking frames I have ever had the privelege of riding...the BMC SL01 was the MOST UNCONFORTABLE FRAME I have ever ridden. I bought the frame, built it up, rode it for 500 miles and sold it to my friend. It was torture riding it for over 60 miles. My body felt so beat up after the rides. I think it had more to do with the GEOMETRY of the frame than the actual tubing material. Just my 2 cents...I think others will share this opinion as well. 🙄

    cwebs said:

    I'm looking at buying an 05 BMC SL01 and need to determine the appropriate bike size for me. I have long legs and a short torso and so I'm not sure if I should opt for a 56cm or a 58cm. Thoughts?

    I went through the competitivecyclist fitment calculator and these are the results:

    Seat tube range c-c 57.0 - 57.5
    Seat tube range c-t 58.8 - 59.3
    Top tube length 56.2 - 56.6
    Stem Length 11.7 - 12.3
    BB-Saddle Position 79.2 - 81.2
    Saddle-Handlebar 55.7 - 56.3
    Saddle Setback 6.1 - 6.5
    Seatpost Type NON-SETBACK

    My particulars entered into CC's online calculator:
    Gender M
    Inseam 88 cm
    Trunk 63 cm
    Forearm 37.5 cm
    Arm 69 cm
    Thigh 62 cm
    Lower Leg 57 cm
    Sternal Notch 148 cm
    Total Body Height 180 cm

    bmc-cycling.comsl01.html - scroll down for frame geometry.

  4. cwebs said:

    I'm looking at buying an 05 BMC SL01 and need to determine the appropriate bike size for me. I have long legs and a short torso and so I'm not sure if I should opt for a 56cm or a 58cm. Thoughts?

    I went through the competitivecyclist fitment calculator and these are the results:

    Seat tube range c-c 57.0 - 57.5
    Seat tube range c-t 58.8 - 59.3
    Top tube length 56.2 - 56.6
    Stem Length 11.7 - 12.3
    BB-Saddle Position 79.2 - 81.2
    Saddle-Handlebar 55.7 - 56.3
    Saddle Setback 6.1 - 6.5
    Seatpost Type NON-SETBACK

    My particulars entered into CC's online calculator:
    Gender M
    Inseam 88 cm
    Trunk 63 cm
    Forearm 37.5 cm
    Arm 69 cm
    Thigh 62 cm
    Lower Leg 57 cm
    Sternal Notch 148 cm
    Total Body Height 180 cm

    http://www.bmc-cycling.com/sl01.html - scroll down for frame geometry.

    short torso, long legs? Get the smaller frame and use a longer seatpost and a higher rise stem. By the way your proportions aren't that disproportionate and you should do fine on stock 56-58 cm frames.

  5. carbonguru said:

    I have ridden this frame. The geometry for BMC frames is not that user friendly. If anything, go smaller when choosing a BMC frame size and make adjustments with your stem length.

    A word of caution...although this is one of the coolest looking frames I have ever had the privelege of riding...the BMC SL01 was the MOST UNCONFORTABLE FRAME I have ever ridden. I bought the frame, built it up, rode it for 500 miles and sold it to my friend. It was torture riding it for over 60 miles. My body felt so beat up after the rides. I think it had more to do with the GEOMETRY of the frame than the actual tubing material. Just my 2 cents...I think others will share this opinion as well. 🙄

    Keep in mind tyre pressure is the No.1 conributor to comfort. Otherwise, comfort is related to frame flex. After a 4 hour (about 80miles), I didn't feel any serious discomfort. It goes down to saddle, handlebar/stem and shoes as well.

  6. carbonguru said:

    I have ridden this frame.:

    jee, what size was it?

    I have the Streetfire, and I reckon it's TOO comfortable! I stiffened it up with a Columbus Link fork, which is a lot stiffer than the EC70

  7. bobbyOCR said:

    I seriously suggest the 56cm. The head tube length, after 56, becomes ridiculous. .

    keep in mind these headsets are integrated, so a 175mm headtube is roughly the same as a 'normal' 160mm headtube, or even less. The stack height of a Columbus semi-integrated headset is about 15mm, but more standard headsets are at least 20mm, so to compare integrateds with standard headtubes, at least 15mm should be subtracted.

    Anyway, I don't reckon the headtubes are big at all! 🙂
    People like me with [censored] backs can have a cool-looking setup with little steerer spacers, but not-to-low bars.Image in BMC bike size. 56 - 58cm?

  8. cwebs said:

    I'm looking at buying an 05 BMC SL01 .

    I guess it comes down to the choice between a 56.2cm and 57.4cm effective top tube. I'm similar to you (182cm, 89.5cm inseam), and 58cm is about is long as I can handle for a toptube, so I went for the Streetfire with the 56.5cm effective top tube.

    I suppose I'm saying I'd go for the 56.2 if i were you. 🙂

  9. 531Aussie said:

    keep in mind these headsets are integrated, so a 175mm headtube is roughly the same as a 'normal' 160mm headtube, or even less. The stack height of a Columbus semi-integrated headset is about 15mm, but more standard headsets are at least 20mm, so to compare integrateds with standard headtubes, at least 15mm should be subtracted.

    Anyway, I don't reckon the headtubes are big at all! 🙂
    People like me with [censored] backs can have a cool-looking setup with little steerer spacers, but not-to-low bars.Image in BMC bike size. 56 - 58cm?

    Haha, I know what you mean. The head tube lengths after 56cm size start going a little over the top though. I guess it is all personal preference.

  10. bobbyOCR said:

    Keep in mind tyre pressure is the No.1 conributor to comfort. Otherwise, comfort is related to frame flex. After a 4 hour (about 80miles), I didn't feel any serious discomfort. It goes down to saddle, handlebar/stem and shoes as well.

    I second everything BobbyOCR says, he knows his stuff.

    My opinion is that if you rode the BMC frame for over 500 miles & felt that it was the most uncomfortable frame you've riddent then perhaps it's the way you were fitted for the bike.

    The best investment you can do before & after buying any bike is to be properly fitted by a knowledgable shop. Don't let them simply look at you guess. After you buy the bike again, the shop should & better fit you again & check all measurements & make necessary adjustments.

    BMC is a sweet frame period.

  11. Update: I went with an 05 SL01 56cm BMC frameset. 😄 This is my first road bike so I'm hoping it will be one sweet ride. The outfit I ordered from mixed up the order. Long story short, I received a set of MTB forks and the other guy received the frameset mean't for me. They've sent a replacement frame my way which is good.

    I'm not too impressed with bikepro (Aus outfit) right now.

    Thanks goes to you guys for pointing me in the right direction ala frame sizing.

  12. cwebs said:

    Update: I went with an 05 SL01 56cm BMC frameset. 😄 This is my first road bike so I'm hoping it will be one sweet ride. The outfit I ordered from mixed up the order. Long story short, I received a set of MTB forks and the other guy received the frameset mean't for me. They've sent a replacement frame my way which is good.

    I'm not too impressed with bikepro (Aus outfit) right now.

    Thanks goes to you guys for pointing me in the right direction ala frame sizing.

    Good to hear. Hope you enjoy riding it and we better see some pics 😉

    What happens to the BMX fork?

  13. bobbyOCR said:

    Good to hear. Hope you enjoy riding it and we better see some pics 😉

    What happens to the BMX fork?


    It was suggested to me by lady at Auspost to refuse forks. Auspost sent forks back, naturally at Bikepro's expense. I informed Bikepro and it was an agreeable solution to them. Certainly much more convenient than me shelling out dollars to post item back and then wait for them to credit me.

    Pics will come. I need to source groupset/wheels/bars and stem plus misc to complete bike. I've settled on 105 groupset... don't know about wheels though. I've seen some budget Shimano 500's for $180aud. I'm in two minds about going budget on the wheels though. Going cheap means I'll get the bike up and going quicker - but I don't want to feel dissatisfied by 'settling'.

  14. cwebs said:

    I'm looking at buying an 05 BMC SL01 and need to determine the appropriate bike size for me. I have long legs and a short torso and so I'm not sure if I should opt for a 56cm or a 58cm. Thoughts?

    I went through the competitivecyclist fitment calculator and these are the results:

    Seat tube range c-c 57.0 - 57.5
    Seat tube range c-t 58.8 - 59.3
    Top tube length 56.2 - 56.6
    Stem Length 11.7 - 12.3
    BB-Saddle Position 79.2 - 81.2
    Saddle-Handlebar 55.7 - 56.3
    Saddle Setback 6.1 - 6.5
    Seatpost Type NON-SETBACK

    My particulars entered into CC's online calculator:
    Gender M
    Inseam 88 cm == 34.6"
    Trunk 63 cm
    Forearm 37.5 cm
    Arm 69 cm
    Thigh 62 cm
    Lower Leg 57 cm
    Sternal Notch 148 cm
    Total Body Height 180 cm == 5' 9"

    bmc-cycling.comsl01.html - scroll down for frame geometry.

    This is after-the-fact since you just picked up your bike, but I would have recommended that you select a 54cm frame (or, smaller!) ... possibly, a ~115mm stem ... AND, get a seatpost with some setback!

    I recommend either an Easton (about an inch setback, depending on how you measure it) or Campagnolo (slightly less setback ... better looking) seatpost -- you can get an Easton seatpost in carbon fiber or aluminum.

    Different people have different ideas about crank arm length ... I recommend 175mm ... others will tell you something else, and they may be right!

    FWIW. I'm 5'9" and my "regular" ride is a 52cm frame (54cm top tube) with a 120mm stem ... I have a 110mm stem on a 53cm frame whose top tube is ~55cm ... I have a "compact" frame whose virtual top tube is 56cm and the stem is a stubby 100mm.

  15. cwebs said:

    It was suggested to me by lady at Auspost to refuse forks. Auspost sent forks back, naturally at Bikepro's expense. I informed Bikepro and it was an agreeable solution to them. Certainly much more convenient than me shelling out dollars to post item back and then wait for them to credit me.

    Pics will come. I need to source groupset/wheels/bars and stem plus misc to complete bike. I've settled on 105 groupset... don't know about wheels though. I've seen some budget Shimano 500's for $180aud. I'm in two minds about going budget on the wheels though. Going cheap means I'll get the bike up and going quicker - but I don't want to feel dissatisfied by 'settling'.

    Here's a fuzzy pic of my 53cm frame (see attachment) to give you a sizing reference ... the seatpost is Easton ... the cranks are 175mm ... the top of the saddle is ~28.5" above the center of the BB spindle, so your saddle may be an as much as (more?) an inch higher.

    I love Shimano stuff, but I strongly recommend that you consider CAMPAGNOLO components ... the low end stuff is almost as good as the high end stuff ... mostly a matter of weight & finish.

  16. If you get the 105 group, and the R500s, and a White/silver Arione, it will look nearly identical to mine 😄

    The R500s are spectacular training wheels. They don't go much further than that.

  17. cwebs said:


    BB-Saddle Position 79.2 - 81.2

    BTW. Is that right?

    I calculate 79.2cm as 31.8 inches & 81.2cm as just shy of 32 inches ...

    I've got to believe that 30 inches is closer to the proper distance between the top of the saddle and the center of the BB unless you are using 165mm cranks, or some other short-length crank.

  18. alfeng said:

    BTW. Is that right?

    I calculate 79.2cm as 31.8 inches & 81.2cm as just shy of 32 inches ...

    I've got to believe that 30 inches is closer to the proper distance between the top of the saddle and the center of the BB unless you are using 165mm cranks, or some other short-length crank.

    If the BMC doesn't work out for me, I'll sell it. I'll just have to eat the loss. I'm sure I could work out an arrangement with an LBS and get credit on the frame. One of the shops has a nice Cervelo Soloist which I might be able to put credit toward but I thought that might be too much bike for a newb. No dramas. Perhaps I could get one of these! drool

    Why Campagnolo over Shimano? Which Campagnolo group would be equivalent to 105?

  19. cwebs said:

    If the BMC doesn't work out for me, I'll sell it. I'll just have to eat the loss. I'm sure I could work out an arrangement with an LBS and get credit on the frame. One of the shops has a nice Cervelo Soloist which I might be able to put credit toward but I thought that might be too much bike for a newb. No dramas. Perhaps I could get one of these! drool

    Why Campagnolo over Shimano? Which Campagnolo group would be equivalent to 105?

    Veloce/Centaur.

    there is no such thing as too much bike.

  20. cwebs said:

    If the BMC doesn't work out for me, I'll sell it. I'll just have to eat the loss. I'm sure I could work out an arrangement with an LBS and get credit on the frame. One of the shops has a nice Cervelo Soloist which I might be able to put credit toward but I thought that might be too much bike for a newb. No dramas. Perhaps I could get one of these! drool

    Why Campagnolo over Shimano? Which Campagnolo group would be equivalent to 105?

    You do know that the shop will give you ONLY a fraction of the purchase price in credit for your frame once you/they start putting parts onto it, don't you?

    I mean, if they give you ~30% of what you pay for the frame (if you are paying full-freight retail), then consider yourself lucky ... but, don't be surprised if they sell it to a Mate of yours for ~70% of the retail ... it's the way of the world BECAUSE they do have some overhead expenses ... so, I won't fault them ... but, you may be really unhappy about the situation.

    If you are having a local shop put the components on the frame for you, then go for a couple of test rides on THEIR demo bikes in the three frame sizes ... 54, 56, 58 ... even 52. MEASURE THE TOP TUBE(S) ... buy based on the top tube length.

    Now, the Campophiles will tell you that:

    [center]Shimano breaks down while Campagnolo breaks in.[/center]

    This is probably a mantra from a dozen years ago when the 8-speed Shimano shifters were RANDOMLY prone to seizing.

    And, they will say that you can rebuild a Campy shifter whereas a Shimano shifter becomes a paperweight after its useful life is reached due to thousands of miles of use or sudden seizure.

    The 9-speed 105 Shimano "stuff" is better than the 8-speed 105 Shimano "stuff" ... and, the 10-speed 105 "stuff" is better than the 9-speed 105 "stuff."

    Having done so, I will tell you that you need the Patience-of-Job the first time to try to rebuild a Campagnolo shifter because the large, main spring is a b*tch to re-install ... I presume there is a special tool to expedite this. The parts are expensive & the wait can seem lengthy; so, it may be cheaper to cannibalize another shifter for the parts!

    Now, I just read a thread where some people indicated that they were disappointed by the feel of the Veloce over their Record shifters. Well, that is akin to saying the brand new, washed once & still stiff blue jeans are not as comfortable as the old pair which the new pair is replacing!

    The signficant internals of ALL the Campagnolo shifters used to be the same. The Record & Chorus had a ball bearing cartridge which supported the central shaft whereas all the others had a bushing and a slightly smaller shaft & the shift lever's cradle has an appropriately sized hole; but, otherwise all the significant parts are interchangeable. The Record (and, recent Chorus) and Mirage/Xenon share the same PLASTIC (Uh, "composite"😉 shifter blade ... but, the high end shifters have a faux-carbon-fiber decal. The brake levers are interchangeable. The indexing gears are interchangeable. The body & hoods are interchangeable.

    I reckon the break-in time for the OLD Record shifters was about 400 miles (less than a week for the really competitive riders) whereas it was probably about 1000 miles for the lesser "stuff" because the bushing also needed to seat. I presume the recent "Ultra" variant had a break in time of close-to-zero since the interactive bits were teflon coated AND presumably blue-printed to a tigher spec. This may just be in my mind; but, I know that a set of shifters that I have which have thousands of miles have a decidely lighter touch/feel to them than when new.

    When I get a new set of shifters, I mount them on a set of spare bars, and break them in while I am doing other stuff (do this when you are alone) which does not otherwise require use of my hands -- reading, watching a TV program in-the-background ... whatever. You know, an hour or two of constant "dry" shifting is like weeks of shifting on the road.

    BAD cables/housing make any shifter seem less than optimum. Campagnolo makes some of the best cables & housing ... but, you can get close to the same level of low-friction cabling with the proper lubing of your cables ... EVEN with the plastic lined stuff.

    Anyway, from your wallet's point of view, you get more bang for the buck with Campagnolo shifters. While the derailleurs may cost more, for $200US you can certainly get a new set of Veloce shifters + rear derailleur & use almost any front derailleur. The Campagnolo Cogniscenti say that Shimano front derailleurs shift better with their ERGO shifters than the Campagnolo front derailleur. So, you can save a few pennies by getting an Ultegra front derailleur. You can't even buy a new pair of Shimano shifters for $200.

    Several years ago, when I was belatedly making the transition from friction to indexed shifting, I just couldn't embrace the Shimano shifting. There was an intangible that I couldn't quantify UNTIL I tried a pair of Campagnolo ERGO shifters ...

    And, it was the ability of the Campagnolo shifters to make the chain traverse multiple cogs with a single shift that was the missing element FOR ME. Certainly, other people will give you another reason why they prefer Campagnolo shifters.

    AND, some people will tell you that you can shift the entire range in a single shift ... well, I can only manage THREE cogs per shift, up or down. AND, when I recently took the occasion to install a set of 105 shifters for some "tests" I found that I could downshift three cogs at a time, but only upshift one cog at a time.

    A nice PLUS with the Campagnolo shifters is that the chain moves in the direction you are pressing the related lever -- I presume that this is what some people have referred to as the "intuitive" aspect of Campagnolo's shifters:[indent]That is, you push the RIGHT shift blade inward, and the chain moves toward the centerline of the bike and onto a larger cog.

    You press the RIGHT thumb lever DOWN, and the chain moves down to a smaller cog.

    You push the LEFT shift blade inward, and the chain moves toward a larger chainring.

    You press the LEFT thumb lever DOWN, and the chain moves down toward the smaller chainring.

    [/indent]How great is that?!?

    I've had a set of RECORD shifters with the carbon fiber blades & everything else except for the XENON. I sold the Record shifters after a few of thousand miles of use and continue to use Mirage on my "Winter" bike ... and, Centaur on another, Veloce on another, and Chorus (alloy levers) on another, et cetera. Cosmetically, I like the look of the Centaur shift blade ("open"😉, but the solid shift blade feels better (to me -- embarrassingly, this is probably best described as a princess-and-the-pea situation).

    So, let your wallet AND your aesthetic sensibilities be your guide in selecting which Campagnolo group you buy your components from if you purchase your components a la carte.

    FWIW. My work-bench observation is that the Shimano 10-speed rear derailleurs can be interchanged for a Campagnolo ... your results may vary.

    NB. Besides the weight difference between the better & lesser components of the two brands, you need to know that the pulley wheels on the 105 rear derailleur are decidely cheaper -- you need to lube INITIALLY (as soon as you get the bike from the shop since they probably won't lube them) + more often -- than the pulley wheels on the Ultegra rear derailleur. Unless you were going to replace the pulley wheels with some alloy pulley wheels from the git-go OR have the discipline to lube your bike's components on a regular basis, it is cheaper to buy an Ultegra rear derailleur.

    More than you wanted to know?

    There's certainly more ...

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