Broken dropout on vintage Trek Frame

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:09:05 -0800 (PST), [email hidden] may

have said:

Hello all,

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

A cracked steel dropout? Where's the crack? It may not matter, or it
may be in a position that's safely repairable by simply brazing the
crack. If the crack is in the der tab itself, simply drilling it out
and brazing in a frame saver bushing would be completely adequate.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:09:05 -0800 (PST), [email hidden] may

have said:

Hello all,

Quoted message said:

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

A cracked steel dropout?  Where's the crack?  It may not matter, or it
may be in a position that's safely repairable by simply brazing the
crack.  If the crack is in the der tab itself, simply drilling it out
and brazing in a frame saver bushing would be completely adequate.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Unfortunately, the crack is located on the bottom of the doropout near
the chainstay . The best solution is to replace the dropout.

Quoted message said:

Werehatrack said:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:09:05 -0800 (PST), [email hidden] may
have said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hello all,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

Quoted message said:

A cracked steel dropout?  Where's the crack?  It may not matter, or it
may be in a position that's safely repairable by simply brazing the
crack.  If the crack is in the der tab itself, simply drilling it out
and brazing in a frame saver bushing would be completely adequate.

Quoted message said:

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Unfortunately, the crack is located on the bottom of the doropout near
the chainstay . The best solution is to replace the dropout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

<YMMV>I had a crack in what sounds like the same location on an '80s
Nishiki International I was riding as a beater fixie. I walked into my
greasy, been-there LBS asking about a local brazer. To my surprise,
they recommended I have it welded by a guy around the corner who works
with wrought iron. Around 30 seconds and $5 later I was carrying the
frame home for a spot of nail polish. I was anxious about the heat
harming the brazed joint, but I've been riding it for a couple years
with no ill effects.</YMMV>

Scott

Quoted message said:

Hello all,

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

I'm in Atlanta, GA. If no one knows of an NC frame repair place, Tamara
at http://www.bicycleframework.com/ did a really good job on my Trek 330
with the exact same problem.

\\paul

Quoted message said:

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

We do that here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/endweld.html

So do lots of frame shops
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Werehatrack said:

Quoted message said:

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible. Thanks in advance.

Quoted message said:

A cracked steel dropout? Where's the crack? It may not matter, or it
may be in a position that's safely repairable by simply brazing the
crack. If the crack is in the der tab itself, simply drilling it out
and brazing in a frame saver bushing would be completely adequate.

A 1981 Trek 950 would probably have Shimano UF dropouts (good luck
finding a replacement!); these are "semi-vertical" with a very short
slot. The typical failure mode for these was across the chainstay tab,
usually not noticed until the failure was complete. At which point
replacement is the safest option.

http://www.cccycles.com/images/shimano-ufS.jpg

We saw a lot of these fail, and replaced them with Campy 1010B dropouts.

--

John ([email hidden])

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I was building up a vintage steel Trek 950 frame from 1981 tonight and
noticed a cracked rear derailleur dropout. Can anyone recommend a
framebuilder to replace it? I live in Charlotte, NC and would like to
stay local if possible.

Quoted message said:

Werehatrack said:

A cracked steel dropout? Where's the crack? It may not matter, or it
may be in a position that's safely repairable by simply brazing the
crack. If the crack is in the der tab itself, simply drilling it out
and brazing in a frame saver bushing would be completely adequate.

John Thompson said:

A 1981 Trek 950 would probably have Shimano UF dropouts (good luck
finding a replacement!); these are "semi-vertical" with a very short
slot. The typical failure mode for these was across the chainstay tab,
usually not noticed until the failure was complete. At which point
replacement is the safest option.
http://www.cccycles.com/images/shimano-ufS.jpg
We saw a lot of these fail, and replaced them with Campy 1010B dropouts.

The classic Campagnolo and Shimano (and most top quality competitors)
ends were forged mild steel until the early 1980s when they were
'improved' by changing to SCM castings. Although prettier and faster
(less cleanup time) they are nowhere near as tolerant of misalignment,
overheating or other damage.
It isn't the Shimano ends per se, but rather the late model overly hard
material versions which are trouble.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971