I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together.
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together.
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together.
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable.
Quoted message said:
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring.
Quoted message said:
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through.
Quoted message said:
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Quoted message said:
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I think they are indented because they got pushed out of phase from the break.
I have a warranty replacement on the way, but I think I will find a suitable hub now for eventual replacement.
Hi All, I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together. Here are some pics: http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable. So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring. These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through. Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I think they are indented because they got pushed out of phase from the break.
they indented because they're weak relative to the load. shimano are /always/ "out of phase", and they hardly ever fail.
Quoted message said:
I have a warranty replacement on the way, but I think I will find a suitable hub now for eventual replacement.
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together.
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable.
Quoted message said:
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring.
Quoted message said:
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through.
Quoted message said:
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Quoted message said:
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
Hi All, I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to bodge it together. Here are some pics: http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the freehub stick and not be useable. So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of ring. These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement parts if the warranty falls through. Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
[email hidden] wrote: > Hi All, > I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking > into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to > bodge it together. > Here are some pics: >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg > The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the > raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the > freehub stick and not be useable. > So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The > freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of > ring. > These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement > parts if the warranty falls through. > Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) > Joseph i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
Quoted message said:
I spoke too soon.
Quoted message said:
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Quoted message said:
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
Quoted message said:
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
Quoted message said:
So will the spokes be too long?
Quoted message said:
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â or you can disassemble the wheel [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â then you have all you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement hub. Â or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American Classic hub. Close enough.
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: > [email hidden] wrote: >> Hi All, >> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking >> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to >> bodge it together. >> Here are some pics: >> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg >> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the >> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the >> freehub stick and not be useable. >> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The >> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of >> ring. >> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement >> parts if the warranty falls through. >> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) >> Joseph > i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are > plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting > and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet > rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it > shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even > if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable. I spoke too soon. They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet. Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself. These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of the rims because the nipples are inside the rim. So will the spokes be too long? Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American Classic hub. Close enough.
Joseph
question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats. or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
[email hidden] wrote: > On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >> [email hidden] wrote: >>> Hi All, >>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking >>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to >>> bodge it together. >>> Here are some pics: >>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg >>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the >>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the >>> freehub stick and not be useable. >>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The >>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of >>> ring. >>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement >>> parts if the warranty falls through. >>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) >>> Joseph >> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are >> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting >> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet >> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it >> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even >> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable. > I spoke too soon. > They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the > hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their > pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet. > Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting > the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself. > These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are > regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is > perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. > AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges > of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm > between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of > the rims because the nipples are inside the rim. > So will the spokes be too long? > Joseph you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily measure, thus you can calculate erd.  or you can disassemble the wheel [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly.  then you haveall you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement hub.  or whether the old ones will fit.
Quoted message said:
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Quoted message said:
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American Classic hub. Close enough.
Quoted message said:
Joseph
question: why use that hub? Â they're not on the list of racing greats.. or reliability greats either come to that. Â is it flange size?
The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different. It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: > [email hidden] wrote: >> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >>> [email hidden] wrote: >>>> Hi All, >>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking >>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to >>>> bodge it together. >>>> Here are some pics: >>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg >>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the >>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the >>>> freehub stick and not be useable. >>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The >>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of >>>> ring. >>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement >>>> parts if the warranty falls through. >>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) >>>> Joseph >>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are >>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting >>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet >>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it >>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even >>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable. >> I spoke too soon. >> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the >> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their >> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet. >> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting >> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself. >> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are >> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is >> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. >> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges >> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm >> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of >> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim. >> So will the spokes be too long? >> Joseph > you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily > measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel > [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all > you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement > hub. or whether the old ones will fit. I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs. Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American Classic hub. Close enough. Joseph
question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats. or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different. It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
Joseph
i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h. you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably with the cost of an ac hub.
[email hidden] wrote: > On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >> [email hidden] wrote: >>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >>>> [email hidden] wrote: >>>>> Hi All, >>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking >>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to >>>>> bodge it together. >>>>> Here are some pics: >>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg >>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the >>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makesthe >>>>> freehub stick and not be useable. >>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The >>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the restof >>>>> ring. >>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement >>>>> parts if the warranty falls through. >>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) >>>>> Joseph >>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are >>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting >>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet >>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it >>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even >>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable. >>> I spoke too soon. >>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the >>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their >>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet. >>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting >>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself. >>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are >>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is >>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.. >>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges >>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm >>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of >>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim. >>> So will the spokes be too long? >>> Joseph >> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily >> measure, thus you can calculate erd.  or you can disassemble thewheel >> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly.  then you have all >> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement >> hub.  or whether the old ones will fit. > I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc > spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the > spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs. > Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American > Classic hub. Close enough. > Joseph question: why use that hub?  they're not on the list of racing greats. or reliability greats either come to that.  is it flange size?
Quoted message said:
The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
Quoted message said:
The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different. It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
Quoted message said:
Joseph
i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h. Â you'll have absolute reliability then. Â and new spokes aren't such a bad thing are they? Â ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably with the cost of an ac hub.
Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.
New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used on one ride!
On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: > [email hidden] wrote: >> On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >>> [email hidden] wrote: >>>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote: >>>>> [email hidden] wrote: >>>>>> Hi All, >>>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking >>>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to >>>>>> bodge it together. >>>>>> Here are some pics: >>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg >>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg >>>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the >>>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the >>>>>> freehub stick and not be useable. >>>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The >>>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of >>>>>> ring. >>>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement >>>>>> parts if the warranty falls through. >>>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP) >>>>>> Joseph >>>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are >>>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting >>>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet >>>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it >>>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even >>>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable. >>>> I spoke too soon. >>>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the >>>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their >>>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet. >>>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting >>>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself. >>>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are >>>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is >>>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure. >>>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges >>>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm >>>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of >>>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim. >>>> So will the spokes be too long? >>>> Joseph >>> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily >>> measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel >>> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all >>> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement >>> hub. or whether the old ones will fit. >> I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc >> spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the >> spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs. >> Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American >> Classic hub. Close enough. >> Joseph > question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats. > or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size? The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there. The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different. It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes? Joseph
i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h. you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably with the cost of an ac hub.
Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.
New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used on one ride!
Joseph
do the math on 2x or even 1x - you may get lucky. and a 36h hub should lace up to 24 spokes ok... there's a trick on calculating spoke length if you're missing holes for this kind of lacing - should be online somewhere...
