Buying a head set. Anything I need to know?

[Trainingwheelz]

That's the question, folks. I've never gone through this process before and just wnated to know if there are any special things I should be aware of before I go see my guy. The fork is an old TIME fork (don't know the year) on a 99 Malliot Jaune.

Thanks.
Ian

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

That's the question, folks. I've never gone through this process before and just wnated to know if there are any special things I should be aware of before I go see my guy. The fork is an old TIME fork (don't know the year) on a 99 Malliot Jaune.

Thanks.
Ian

Things you need to know:

1) the stack height of the existing HS

2) the OD of the steerer tube (the OD of the head tube will do, if that's easier)

3) threaded or threadless (Threaded takes a so-called "quill" stem which fits inside the steerer tube. Threadless takes a stem that fits over the outside of the steerer tube.)


Are you planning on doing this yourself?

 

[Trainingwheelz]

In fact yes, I am planning on doing this myself. I consider myself to be maechnically inclilned and don;t forsee any great problems tackling this.

Advantages between the threaded and threadless headset??

Thanks.

Things you need to know:

1) the stack height of the existing HS

2) the OD of the steerer tube (the OD of the head tube will do, if that's easier)

3) threaded or threadless (Threaded takes a so-called "quill" stem which fits inside the steerer tube. Threadless takes a stem that fits over the outside of the steerer tube.)


Are you planning on doing this yourself?

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

In fact yes, I am planning on doing this myself. I consider myself to be maechnically inclilned and don;t forsee any great problems tackling this.

Advantages between the threaded and threadless headset??

Thanks.

Threaded v. threadless: some feel that threadless is easier to adjust and more likely to stay in adjustment. Some disagree. My take is that if you have an older, threaded fork (i.e., a threaded steerer tube), just get a threaded headset and proceed.

As for doing it yourself, having a press to install the new headset is _very_ helpful in doing the job correctly w/o damaging either the headset or the frame (headtube). Absent a press, it kinda makes sense to take the frame to a competent bike mechanic. If you do that, you might want to ask about having the head tube and the fork crown "faced" to allow the best alignment. This will prolong the life of the new headset. (This may have been done when the frame was new, but only a visual inspection can confirm that.)

 

[Trainingwheelz]

Thanks you for your help regarding this matter. It looks as though I will keep things simple and stay as close to the orginial setup as possible. Maybe my LBS mechanic will let me watch!!

Thanks again

Ian

Threaded v. threadless: some feel that threadless is easier to adjust and more likely to stay in adjustment. Some disagree. My take is that if you have an older, threaded fork (i.e., a threaded steerer tube), just get a threaded headset and proceed.

As for doing it yourself, having a press to install the new headset is _very_ helpful in doing the job correctly w/o damaging either the headset or the frame (headtube). Absent a press, it kinda makes sense to take the frame to a competent bike mechanic. If you do that, you might want to ask about having the head tube and the fork crown "faced" to allow the best alignment. This will prolong the life of the new headset. (This may have been done when the frame was new, but only a visual inspection can confirm that.)