Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Campagnolo chain wear

Started by Neal · · Last activity · 9 posts · 622 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
30 May 2006
Last activity
1 June 2006
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Neal
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  1. I have 4900 miles on a C10 Campy chain and when I check for wear using a
    straight edge, it shows 12 1/32 inches. When I check it with a Park chain
    gauge, it shows that the chain is still good. Should I go ahead and replace the
    chain since Campagnolo states a chain life of 3000 - 5000 miles or keep riding?
    The chain has been lubricated every 100 miles with Prolink.

    Neal

  2. "Neal" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have 4900 miles on a C10 Campy chain and when I check for wear using a
    straight edge, it shows 12 1/32 inches. When I check it with a Park chain
    gauge, it shows that the chain is still good. Should I go ahead and


    replace the

    Quoted message said:

    chain since Campagnolo states a chain life of 3000 - 5000 miles or keep


    riding?

    Quoted message said:

    The chain has been lubricated every 100 miles with Prolink.

    Neal

    Buy a new one (you have to eventually anyway), take off the old one. Hang
    both on a nail and compare them. If the old is 4 mm longer put on the new
    one. If not put back the old one. It is that simple.

    Lou

  3. My squinty eyes are getting squintier year by year. Using a metal ruler
    to measure chain wear is not reliable for me. I've wondered if chains
    wear at a constant rate throughout it's useful life or does the wear
    rate accelerate ever higher at a given point.

  4. Kenny said:

    My squinty eyes are getting squintier year by year. Using a metal ruler
    to measure chain wear is not reliable for me. I've wondered if chains
    wear at a constant rate throughout it's useful life or does the wear
    rate accelerate ever higher at a given point.

    Riding with the chain dirty and gritty will accelerate wear. Riding
    with a properly cleaned chain will slow wear. E.g. the chain on my
    infrequently-cleaned rain bike wears much faster than the often-cleaned
    "sunny days" bike.

    So if the amount of grit in your chain varies, it's rate of wear will
    vary as well. A clean chain that would otherwise have lasted, say, 4000
    miles could go downhill fast if ridden uncleaned a lot after a gritty,
    rainy ride.

    Probably need to get it pretty filthy to get it to wear truly rapidly,
    though.

    Mark

  5. Lou Holtman said:

    Buy a new one (you have to eventually anyway), take off the old one. Hang
    both on a nail and compare them. If the old is 4 mm longer put on the new
    one. If not put back the old one. It is that simple.

    Your elongation number of 4 mm: does that apply to 12 links of chain or
    the whole thing? If you intend that to apply to the whole chain, then
    it's not a general number that you can apply to all bikes as cassettes,
    cranks, and length of chainstays (the factors that determine chain
    lengths) vary so much.

    --
    Paul M. Hobson
    Georgia Institute of Technology
    ..:change the f to ph to reply:.

  6. Neal said:

    I have 4900 miles on a C10 Campy chain and when I check for wear using a
    straight edge, it shows 12 1/32 inches. When I check it with a Park chain
    gauge, it shows that the chain is still good. Should I go ahead and replace the
    chain since Campagnolo states a chain life of 3000 - 5000 miles or keep riding?
    The chain has been lubricated every 100 miles with Prolink.

    Neal

    In spite of some whining about Campag chain cost or longevity...they
    are really nice items. Like engine oil, they are 'disposable', and you
    should replace before they wreck anything.
    I would go ahead and change it at 5000 miles..use a Veloce replacement.

  7. Paul Hobson said:

    Your elongation number of 4 mm: does that apply to 12 links of chain or
    the whole thing? If you intend that to apply to the whole chain, then
    it's not a general number that you can apply to all bikes as cassettes,
    cranks, and length of chainstays (the factors that determine chain
    lengths) vary so much.

    Not *that* much. Pretty much all regular upright bike chains are between
    104 and 116 links.

    Jasper

  8. Mark Janeba said:
    Kenny said:

    My squinty eyes are getting squintier year by year. Using a metal
    ruler to measure chain wear is not reliable for me. I've wondered if
    chains wear at a constant rate throughout it's useful life or does
    the wear rate accelerate ever higher at a given point.

    Riding with the chain dirty and gritty will accelerate wear. Riding
    with a properly cleaned chain will slow wear. E.g. the chain on my
    infrequently-cleaned rain bike wears much faster than the
    often-cleaned "sunny days" bike.

    Somebody posted a link to a website showing that lube doesn't significantly
    affect chain life. Does anyone have that?

    --
    Phil

  9. Squid-in-Training said:
    Mark Janeba said:
    Kenny said:

    My squinty eyes are getting squintier year by year. Using a metal
    ruler to measure chain wear is not reliable for me. I've wondered if
    chains wear at a constant rate throughout it's useful life or does
    the wear rate accelerate ever higher at a given point.

    Riding with the chain dirty and gritty will accelerate wear. Riding
    with a properly cleaned chain will slow wear. E.g. the chain on my
    infrequently-cleaned rain bike wears much faster than the
    often-cleaned "sunny days" bike.

    Somebody posted a link to a website showing that lube doesn't significantly
    affect chain life. Does anyone have that?

    Dear Phil,

    You may be mis-remembering Professor Spicer's tests at Johns Hopkins:

    http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf

    Spicer didn't test for chain wear.

    He tested for transmission efficiency and found to his surprise that
    the same chain transmitted power almost as efficiently when dry and
    bare as it did with the three kinds of lubricants that he tested.

    The chief purpose of the lubricant, he suggested, was simply filling
    the minute crevices in the chain and keeping road dust out.

    This means that there isn't any friction that ordinary lubrication was
    going to reduce and magically increase transmission efficiency.

    In short, the squeaking of a dry chain is awful, but very little power
    is required to emit a squeak.

    In real life, a no-lube chain would presumably wear much faster than a
    chain with any kind of lubricant because more road dust could get into
    the unfilled crevices of the dry chain.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

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