Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing, continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or (on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain slipped off the cassette into the spokes.
Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.
-alan
-- Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/ "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.
Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing, continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or (on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain slipped off the cassette into the spokes.
Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.
Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try using your QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for loosening, too, which can be a bit trickier, of course.)
Bill "master stripper (and not in a Patrick Swayze on SNL kinda way)" S.
<< Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips >>
Just use a rear quick-release skewer to hold the lockring tool in place. When removing a lockring, just adjust the skewer a little looser to allow the lockring to unscrew a bit.
"S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try using your QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for loosening, too, which can be a bit trickier, of course.)
Or get the kind of lock ring tool with a pin in the middle to hold it in place.
"S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try using your QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for loosening, too, which can be a bit trickier, of course.)
Or get the kind of lock ring tool with a pin in the middle to hold it in place.
I like this type of tool because it works easily with a torque wrench socket.
The QR skewer idea works OK if you have a sufficiently deep socket to fit over the QR skewer end.
Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing, continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or (on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain slipped off the cassette into the spokes.
Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.
-alan
There are two tool formats. An early Shimano pattern used for UG freewheels is also used for Campagnolo cassette lockrings and for Record/Chorus BB cups. Shimano/SRAM cassette lockrings are a different pattern --although they look roughly similar from a few feet away. You should double check that you're getting the right tool- - go to your LBS with your tool and hold it up to the new ones on the wall. The difference is obvious if you put the two tools next to each other and your description sounds like you have the 'other' one. A nice tool for that is the Tacx T4545 with an integral handle, BTW. At any rate, your problem is not common among professional mechanics.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
I'm not an expert mechanic; but, I used the mallet and it works great.
Tom
"Alan Hoyle" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing, continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or (on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain slipped off the cassette into the spokes.
Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.
-alan
-- Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/ "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.
