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CFR Wobble

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Published
19 July 2004
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22 July 2004
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Phil Cox
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  1. Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)? Any
    thoughts are appreciated.

    Phil

  2. Same as on any other bike - rest your knee on the top tube.

    "Phil Cox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    | Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)?
    Any
    | thoughts are appreciated.
    |
    | Phil
    |
    |

  3. doesn't that just address the symptoms, not the cause?

    Doug Huffman said:

    Same as on any other bike - rest your knee on the top tube.

    "Phil Cox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    | Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)?
    Any
    | thoughts are appreciated.
    |
    | Phil
    |
    |

  4. i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish &
    stronger spokes. others report tires, headset bearings, shifting
    saddle/handlebar positions, etc. other suggestions are googleable.

    my thoughts on the cause are that you're looking at a dynamic system
    with two primary resonators - wheels & frame. if they're in tune, you
    can get this speed-wobble harmonic. try tuning them out, with a
    different frame if necessary. resonance killers like "knee on the top
    tube" will get you out of trouble, but clearly that's less than ideal -
    you should be in a position where it doesn't arise in the first place.

    Phil Cox said:

    Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)? Any
    thoughts are appreciated.

    Phil

  5. Phil Cox said:

    Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)? Any
    thoughts are appreciated.

    Phil


    I think if you did a Google search you'll find that the cause(s) of
    speed wobble has to do with harmonics. Something like the way tuning
    forks work. These harmonic variables at work are very elastic and
    conditional, behaving differently for each rider+bike combo. Even the
    weather has a big influence on wither or not you get speed wobble for
    that particular moment. I encountered speed wobble only once with my
    road bike. It was scary and I thought I would get seriously injured.
    Managed to stop without incident by pumping the brakes. After this
    incident I approached downhills with more caution by using the "knee on
    top tube" procedure. I tried once to induce speed wobble while my knee
    was on the top tube and going down the same hill as before but it never
    appeared. This experiment with speed wobble happened three years ago.
    Now a days I go downhill without fear of speed wobble and without using
    the "knee on top tube" procedure. The only difference between now and
    then is that when I go downhill I like to ride in the drops with my ass
    hanging off the back-end of the saddle. Others in this thread have
    suggested changing components to cure speed wobble. This will probably
    work for the speed wobble on the bike, but what about the speed wobble
    in one's heart?

    May the "Force" be with you. Be one with the bike and in harmony with
    the world around you.

    Kenny Lee

  6. jim beam said:

    i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish &
    stronger spokes.

    How does wheel dish affect shimmy? Also, what affect would
    that have on the front, since only the rear wheel is dished?

    How does the strength of the spokes affect shimmy
    (especially since I've never heard of a shimmy causing
    broken spokes)?

    Mark McMaster
    [email hidden]

  7. Mark McMaster said:
    jim beam said:

    i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish &
    stronger spokes.

    How does wheel dish affect shimmy?

    it's the classic weight suspended in the middle of a rope scenario.

    X-----------------------X
    ^
    w

    the closer the angle at the end of the ropes gets to horizontal, the
    greater the tension on the rope. at perfect horizontal, tension is
    infinity. for a wheel, if you want to prove it to yourself, take a
    dished wheel, but it on the floor so the load is on the axle, then
    _gently_ lean with your hands on opposite sides of the rim. if you have
    the non-dished side towards you, you'll find the wheel fairly stiff
    against your weight. if you have the dished side towards you however,
    you'll find the wheel noticably more flexible. if you can maximize the
    bracing angle, you can therefore maximize lateral stiffness. if the
    wheel has significant lateral flex & springiness, togther with rider
    weight & load, there will be a natural resonant frequency.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, what affect would that have on
    the front, since only the rear wheel is dished?

    i'm not sure it does affec the front /wheel/ significantly. frame
    torsion will however cause significant steering "adjustments" as the
    castor of the fork seeks center.

    Quoted message said:


    How does the strength of the spokes affect shimmy (especially since I've
    never heard of a shimmy causing broken spokes)?

    i don't think it does cause broken spokes. i've never heard of it at
    any rate. thickness of the spokes affects stiffness, and stiffness
    affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore resonant frequency.

  8. "Phil Cox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Any thoughts on how to correct a speed wobble in a Scattante CFR (2002)? Any
    thoughts are appreciated.

    Phil


    Bonjour

    If you don't mind me asking, what height and weight are you, and what
    size is your bike? Also how violent was the wobble, and what were the
    riding conditions.

    Merci

    LGF

  9. Quoted message said:

    If you don't mind me asking, what height and weight are you, and what
    size is your bike? Also how violent was the wobble, and what were the
    riding conditions.

    Ht: 5'10
    Wt: 175
    Sz: 59cm Scatatne CFR (bought a 59 to get "stretched out" for longer rides)
    Wobble: I was going a fairly steep hill and it felt like the front end of my
    bike was gonna blow up. I was ging about 42 MPH, and I was SURE that I was
    going to endo and crash at that speed. A combination of pulse braking and
    prayer was the only thing that hept me from being a splat.

    I was told that I liekly did not have enough weight over my front tire, but
    when I put the weight over my front, the rear seems to float. I always
    thought a longer bike would/should be more stable, but I am starting to
    think the bike is just too big for me, and that I need about a 54 to 56 cm.

    Phil

  10. jim beam said:
    Mark McMaster said:
    jim beam said:

    i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish
    & stronger spokes.

    How does wheel dish affect shimmy?

    it's the classic weight suspended in the middle of a rope scenario.

    X-----------------------X
    ^
    w

    the closer the angle at the end of the ropes gets to horizontal, the
    greater the tension on the rope. at perfect horizontal, tension is
    infinity. for a wheel, if you want to prove it to yourself, take a
    dished wheel, but it on the floor so the load is on the axle, then
    _gently_ lean with your hands on opposite sides of the rim. if you have
    the non-dished side towards you, you'll find the wheel fairly stiff
    against your weight. if you have the dished side towards you however,
    you'll find the wheel noticably more flexible. if you can maximize the
    bracing angle, you can therefore maximize lateral stiffness. if the
    wheel has significant lateral flex & springiness, togther with rider
    weight & load, there will be a natural resonant frequency.

    Ah, I see you're still confused about how the spoke tension
    affects wheel stiffness (which means you're probably still
    confused about how spoke tension affects wheel strength).
    Wheels are linearly elastic, so they have the same lateral
    stiffness from both sides (unless and until the spokes
    become slack). See Damon Rinard's test on wheel lateral
    stiffness, question 3, "Do dished wheels flex differently
    from one side to the other."

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    How does the strength of the spokes affect shimmy (especially since
    I've never heard of a shimmy causing broken spokes)?

    i don't think it does cause broken spokes. i've never heard of it at
    any rate. thickness of the spokes affects stiffness, and stiffness
    affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore resonant frequency.

    But you didn't say anything about spoke stiffness, you only
    said spoke strength. If you want to increase stiffness, a
    better way might be to increase the number of spokes, as
    this tends to make the wheel more durable also.

    It does seem odd that your two suggestions for addressing
    shimmy actually have opposite affects. Decreasing the rear
    wheel dish tends to make the wheel less stiff - the only
    practical way to decrease wheel dish on modern 8/9/10spd
    road wheels is to move the left flange inward, which
    decreases the bracing angle, and makes wheels more flexible.
    On the other hand, your suggestion to using thicker spokes
    will make the wheel stiffer.

    Mark McMaster
    [email hidden]

  11. "Phil Cox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you don't mind me asking, what height and weight are you, and what
    size is your bike? Also how violent was the wobble, and what were the
    riding conditions.

    Ht: 5'10
    Wt: 175
    Sz: 59cm Scatatne CFR (bought a 59 to get "stretched out" for longer rides)
    Wobble: I was going a fairly steep hill and it felt like the front end of my
    bike was gonna blow up. I was ging about 42 MPH, and I was SURE that I was
    going to endo and crash at that speed. A combination of pulse braking and
    prayer was the only thing that hept me from being a splat.

    I was told that I liekly did not have enough weight over my front tire, but
    when I put the weight over my front, the rear seems to float. I always
    thought a longer bike would/should be more stable, but I am starting to
    think the bike is just too big for me, and that I need about a 54 to 56 cm.

    I agree with the weight over the front tyre - I have been advised this
    myself and tried it out. Also keeping your weight forward puts your
    arms in a better position to act as steering dampers - further back
    and your arms are in a very strong position and can react too forcibly
    and too quickly, which can add to and perhaps actually cause the
    problem. Add to this an understandable increased nervousness, things
    can may get worse.

    People who say placing your knee on the top-tube quickly abates the
    sort of speed wobble you report have never experienced one!

    LGF

  12. Mark McMaster said:
    jim beam said:
    Mark McMaster said:

    jim beam wrote:

    > i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish
    > & stronger spokes.

    How does wheel dish affect shimmy?

    it's the classic weight suspended in the middle of a rope scenario.

    X-----------------------X
    ^
    w

    the closer the angle at the end of the ropes gets to horizontal, the
    greater the tension on the rope. at perfect horizontal, tension is
    infinity. for a wheel, if you want to prove it to yourself, take a
    dished wheel, but it on the floor so the load is on the axle, then
    _gently_ lean with your hands on opposite sides of the rim. if you
    have the non-dished side towards you, you'll find the wheel fairly
    stiff against your weight. if you have the dished side towards you
    however, you'll find the wheel noticably more flexible. if you can
    maximize the bracing angle, you can therefore maximize lateral
    stiffness. if the wheel has significant lateral flex & springiness,
    togther with rider weight & load, there will be a natural resonant
    frequency.

    Ah, I see you're still confused about how the spoke tension affects
    wheel stiffness (which means you're probably still confused about how
    spoke tension affects wheel strength). Wheels are linearly elastic, so
    they have the same lateral stiffness from both sides (unless and until
    the spokes become slack). See Damon Rinard's test on wheel lateral
    stiffness, question 3, "Do dished wheels flex differently from one side
    to the other."

    please do the geometry. please do the experiment i describe. please
    explain how all damon's results are "slanted upward toward the right in
    every case".

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    How does the strength of the spokes affect shimmy (especially since
    I've never heard of a shimmy causing broken spokes)?

    i don't think it does cause broken spokes. i've never heard of it at
    any rate. thickness of the spokes affects stiffness, and stiffness
    affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore resonant frequency.

    But you didn't say anything about spoke stiffness, you only said spoke
    strength. If you want to increase stiffness, a better way might be to
    increase the number of spokes, as this tends to make the wheel more
    durable also.

    in the following statment: "thickness of the spokes affects stiffness,
    and stiffness affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore
    resonant frequency." where do i talk about spoke strength?

    Quoted message said:


    It does seem odd that your two suggestions for addressing shimmy
    actually have opposite affects. Decreasing the rear wheel dish tends to
    make the wheel less stiff - the only practical way to decrease wheel
    dish on modern 8/9/10spd road wheels is to move the left flange inward,
    which decreases the bracing angle, and makes wheels more flexible. On
    the other hand, your suggestion to using thicker spokes will make the
    wheel stiffer.

    where i'm from, decreasing dish usually means increasing bracing angle,
    or moving the flange outward. perhaps we have a terminology problem?

  13. jim beam said:
    Mark McMaster said:
    jim beam said:

    Mark McMaster wrote:


    Ah, I see you're still confused about how the spoke tension affects
    wheel stiffness (which means you're probably still confused about how
    spoke tension affects wheel strength). Wheels are linearly elastic, so
    they have the same lateral stiffness from both sides (unless and until
    the spokes become slack). See Damon Rinard's test on wheel lateral
    stiffness, question 3, "Do dished wheels flex differently from one
    side to the other."

    please do the geometry. please do the experiment i describe. please
    explain how all damon's results are "slanted upward toward the right in
    every case".

    You should probably read Rinard's report before commenting
    on it. He says:

    "A dished wheel might deflect slightly more due to loads
    applied from the flatter side than it does due to equivalent
    loads applied from the other, but it is unclear from this
    data whether this is really the case. It may be true in
    theory, because of the difference in bracing angle between
    the right side spokes and the left side spokes: the more
    favorable bracing angle of the left side spokes may be
    better able to restrain the rim against deflection to the
    right than the right side spokes might brace the rim against
    deflection to the left.

    "If it exists, the difference is very small: on the order of
    just a few thousandths of an inch, i.e. within the error of
    my measurement, even under the larger-than-life load of
    25.78 pounds that I used for this test. Even if a small
    difference exists in this artificially high load case, no
    one will notice the even smaller difference the wheel might
    display while riding."

    So yes, there may be a small change in lateral stiffness as
    the wheel is flexed due to the change in bracing angles of
    the spokes - but the change is smaller than would be
    detected by flexing the wheel by hand, as in your
    experiment. Even the small changes in stiffness measured by
    Rinard where in response to relative large loads. In the
    smaller range of loads more likely to be experienced, there
    will only a be a minor change in stiffnesses.

    Here is a better experiment than laying the wheel on the
    ground and pressing with your weight on opposites sides:
    With the wheel in the frame, press the right back and forth
    laterally between the seat stays. This is a better
    representation of both the application of lateral load and
    the amount of deflection that the rim experiences in use. I
    doubt that you'll be able to detect a difference in the
    right or left stiffnesses.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    But you didn't say anything about spoke stiffness, you only said spoke
    strength. If you want to increase stiffness, a better way might be to
    increase the number of spokes, as this tends to make the wheel more
    durable also.

    in the following statment: "thickness of the spokes affects stiffness,
    and stiffness affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore
    resonant frequency." where do i talk about spoke strength?

    The google record of this thread can be found at:

    http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&threadm=adff4513.0407200116.6e8f6c61%40posting.google.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dphil%2Bscattante%2Bcfr%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26scoring%3Dd%26selm%3Dadff4513.0407200116.6e8f6c61%2540posting.google.com%26rnum%3D1

    The direct quote from your post (number four in the thread
    above):

    "i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly
    less dish & stronger spokes."

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    It does seem odd that your two suggestions for addressing shimmy
    actually have opposite affects. Decreasing the rear wheel dish tends
    to make the wheel less stiff - the only practical way to decrease
    wheel dish on modern 8/9/10spd road wheels is to move the left flange
    inward, which decreases the bracing angle, and makes wheels more
    flexible. On the other hand, your suggestion to using thicker spokes
    will make the wheel stiffer.

    where i'm from, decreasing dish usually means increasing bracing angle,
    or moving the flange outward. perhaps we have a terminology problem?

    Moving which flange outboard? The dish in rear wheels is
    created because the left flange is further outboard than the
    right flange. But on modern 8/9/10spd wheels, the right
    flange can not be moved further outward, or the derailleur
    will interfere with the spokes. The only flange that can be
    moved outward is the left flange, which would only further
    increase the imbalance between the right and left bracing
    angles. While this will increase the lateral stiffness, it
    will also increase dish.

    Mark McMaster
    [email hidden]

  14. mark, you're twisting what i say. play it straight please.

    Mark McMaster said:
    jim beam said:
    Mark McMaster said:

    jim beam wrote:

    > Mark McMaster wrote:

    Ah, I see you're still confused about how the spoke tension affects
    wheel stiffness (which means you're probably still confused about how
    spoke tension affects wheel strength). Wheels are linearly elastic,
    so they have the same lateral stiffness from both sides (unless and
    until the spokes become slack). See Damon Rinard's test on wheel
    lateral stiffness, question 3, "Do dished wheels flex differently
    from one side to the other."

    please do the geometry. please do the experiment i describe. please
    explain how all damon's results are "slanted upward toward the right in
    every case".

    You should probably read Rinard's report before commenting on it. He says:

    "A dished wheel might deflect slightly more due to loads applied from
    the flatter side than it does due to equivalent loads applied from the
    other, but it is unclear from this data whether this is really the case.
    It may be true in theory, because of the difference in bracing angle
    between the right side spokes and the left side spokes: the more
    favorable bracing angle of the left side spokes may be better able to
    restrain the rim against deflection to the right than the right side
    spokes might brace the rim against deflection to the left.

    "If it exists, the difference is very small: on the order of just a few
    thousandths of an inch, i.e. within the error of my measurement, even
    under the larger-than-life load of 25.78 pounds that I used for this
    test. Even if a small difference exists in this artificially high load
    case, no one will notice the even smaller difference the wheel might
    display while riding."

    So yes, there may be a small change in lateral stiffness as the wheel is
    flexed due to the change in bracing angles of the spokes - but the
    change is smaller than would be detected by flexing the wheel by hand,
    as in your experiment. Even the small changes in stiffness measured by
    Rinard where in response to relative large loads. In the smaller range
    of loads more likely to be experienced, there will only a be a minor
    change in stiffnesses.

    Here is a better experiment than laying the wheel on the ground and
    pressing with your weight on opposites sides: With the wheel in the
    frame, press the right back and forth laterally between the seat stays.
    This is a better representation of both the application of lateral load
    and the amount of deflection that the rim experiences in use. I doubt
    that you'll be able to detect a difference in the right or left
    stiffnesses.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    But you didn't say anything about spoke stiffness, you only said
    spoke strength. If you want to increase stiffness, a better way
    might be to increase the number of spokes, as this tends to make the
    wheel more durable also.

    in the following statment: "thickness of the spokes affects stiffness,
    and stiffness affects the degree of flex, spring rate and therefore
    resonant frequency." where do i talk about spoke strength?

    The google record of this thread can be found at:

    http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&threadm=adff4513.0407200116.6e8f6c61%40posting.google.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dphil%2Bscattante%2Bcfr%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26scoring%3Dd%26selm%3Dadff4513.0407200116.6e8f6c61%2540posting.google.com%26rnum%3D1

    The direct quote from your post (number four in the thread above):

    "i've had success with changing wheels to one with slightly less dish &
    stronger spokes."

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    It does seem odd that your two suggestions for addressing shimmy
    actually have opposite affects. Decreasing the rear wheel dish tends
    to make the wheel less stiff - the only practical way to decrease
    wheel dish on modern 8/9/10spd road wheels is to move the left flange
    inward, which decreases the bracing angle, and makes wheels more
    flexible. On the other hand, your suggestion to using thicker spokes
    will make the wheel stiffer.

    where i'm from, decreasing dish usually means increasing bracing angle,
    or moving the flange outward. perhaps we have a terminology problem?

    Moving which flange outboard? The dish in rear wheels is created because
    the left flange is further outboard than the right flange. But on
    modern 8/9/10spd wheels, the right flange can not be moved further
    outward, or the derailleur will interfere with the spokes. The only
    flange that can be moved outward is the left flange, which would only
    further increase the imbalance between the right and left bracing
    angles. While this will increase the lateral stiffness, it will also
    increase dish.

    Mark McMaster
    [email hidden]

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