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Chain Lubricant?

Started by Saxman · · Last activity · 36 posts · 1,282 views

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UK and Europe
Published
27 May 2006
Last activity
29 May 2006
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Saxman
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36
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  1. Saxman said:

    Any recommendations on what chain lubricant to use? I am told on good
    authority that used car engine oil is the best?


    Used car engine oil contains lots of nasty rough carbon particles
    (hence the dark colour), and a depleted additive pack (in there to
    buffer out the acidic combustion by-products and provide boundary
    lubrication), so not a good idea, but better / cheaper than WD40 😉
    Pro-Link is my current favourite for the road bikes and Finish Line
    cross country for the MTB: both combined with regular wiping with a rag
    to keep the excess off the outside of the chain, where all it does is
    keep the rust at bay (and attract dirt if too thick).

  2. squeaker said:


    Pro-Link is my current favourite for the road bikes and Finish Line
    cross country for the MTB: both combined with regular wiping with a rag
    to keep the excess off the outside of the chain, where all it does is
    keep the rust at bay (and attract dirt if too thick).

    Prolink is my favourite too. I used to bring it back from North America
    after reading lots of usenet positive recommendations but these days you
    can order it up from Wiggle. I find it works best if applied 24hrs
    before you ride to give time for the volatiles to evaporate. Much
    better and cleaner than White Lightning

    --
    Tony

    "Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
    his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
    - Leonardo da Vinci

  3. M-gineering said:
    Eiron said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    Used car engine oil most definitely isn't best and really isn't suitable.
    Car engine oil is required to be fairly gloopy at high temperatures, and
    consequently is even more gloopy at low temperatures. Chain lube has to
    be able to get into the pins and rollers by capillary action, so has to
    be very runny at low temperatures, and once in has to stay there, so
    must contain a fair bit of volatiles which evaporate out fairly rapidly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Car engine oil is much too thin for a chain.

    Quoted message said:

    It does a pretty good job lubricating chains inside engines (at even
    lower viscosity) so this statement can't be right

    The car and bike engine chains I've seen are either *very* much more
    lightly loaded than a bicycle chain, or *very* much thicker and
    stronger. I would therefore expect a bicycle chain to need a much
    heavier lubricant than an internal car or motorcycle engine chain just
    to cope with the forces and durations. Then there's the problem of
    being out in the open and rained on. Looks like *very* different
    lubrication requirements to me.

    --
    Chris Malcolm [email hidden] +44 (0)131 651 3445 DoD #205
    IPAB, Informatics, JCMB, King's Buildings, Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK
    [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/]

  4. Chris Malcolm said:


    The car and bike engine chains I've seen are either *very* much more
    lightly loaded than a bicycle chain, or *very* much thicker and
    stronger. I would therefore expect a bicycle chain to need a much
    heavier lubricant than an internal car or motorcycle engine chain just
    to cope with the forces and durations. Then there's the problem of
    being out in the open and rained on. Looks like *very* different
    lubrication requirements to me.

    Motorbike chains tend out in the open too but have seals to keep the
    outside from the bearing surfaces. Unfortunately that adds drag which
    is not too important on a bike with an engine but is on one you pedal

    --
    Tony

    "Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
    his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
    - Leonardo da Vinci

  5. Chris Malcolm said:
    M-gineering said:
    Eiron said:

    Simon Brooke wrote:

    >Used car engine oil most definitely isn't best and really isn't suitable.
    >Car engine oil is required to be fairly gloopy at high temperatures, and
    >consequently is even more gloopy at low temperatures. Chain lube has to
    >be able to get into the pins and rollers by capillary action, so has to
    >be very runny at low temperatures, and once in has to stay there, so
    >must contain a fair bit of volatiles which evaporate out fairly rapidly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Car engine oil is much too thin for a chain.

    Quoted message said:

    It does a pretty good job lubricating chains inside engines (at even
    lower viscosity) so this statement can't be right

    The car and bike engine chains I've seen are either *very* much more
    lightly loaded than a bicycle chain, or *very* much thicker and
    stronger. I would therefore expect a bicycle chain to need a much
    heavier lubricant than an internal car or motorcycle engine chain just
    to cope with the forces and durations. Then there's the problem of
    being out in the open and rained on. Looks like *very* different
    lubrication requirements to me.

    Car camchain lubrication is a compromise - it has to share the same oil
    as the rest of the engine. If it was in a separate enclosure it would have
    a heavier lubricant. 'O' or 'X' ring motorcycle chains have grease inside
    but they do get hot in use so it thins a little. Chain lube mostly prevents
    rust and friction on the side plates.

    I'll go now and put my tube of chainlube in hot water so it flows better.

    --
    Eiron

    No good deed ever goes unpunished.

  6. vernon levy said:

    FWIW I use Finish Line Cross Country and am happy with its performance.

    Me also. Finish Line Cross Country in winter, White Lightning in summer
    (the bottle of WL I bought last summer has yet to see any use this year).

    FL and WL may be a damn sight more expensive than diesel or chainsaw
    oil, or any other of these non-fancy lubricants that some people use,
    but one small bottle lasts for ages, and what's more a small bottle of
    each fits much more easily in my bike toolkit than a 5L bottle of
    chainsaw oil would.

    d.

  7. OP asked what chain lubricant - various answers - old car oil / not old
    car oil etc....

    For what it's worth, and although generally practically-minded and with
    a semi-technical background, I'm not an engineer - so it's just my two
    bob's worth..

    Given the horrible rusty chains quite a few leasure bikes end up with,
    the main thing is oilding the chain, rather than not oiling it. A
    bicycle chain doesn't exactly transmit a lot of power, even if you're
    Lance Armstrong so it shouldn't really be critical. That said, I can
    see that old car oil has got a lot of horrible sooty stuff, acids, bits
    of metal etc in it, but would still be a lot better than nothing. I'd
    guess that car oil would be too thick, or thicker than ideal shall we
    say, as it's formulated to still be thick enough at high temperatures,
    and has to stand much higher pressures in bearings and the like.

    I'd have thought that something that said "bicycle chain oil" on the
    tin should be pretty good - not just being facetious - but that one
    might hope that at least some thought had gone into the contents. But
    then, you're paying 5 quid a cupfull rather than a gallon. From my own
    experience I like (but can't really justify) some road bike chain oil
    in a little black bottle with added PTFE. Bike seems to run well, and
    it's thin so doesn't atract [censored] quite so much. I previously used a
    "mountain bike oil" from same company - but that was rather thick which
    atracted too much muck - though presumably wouldn't get washed off so
    easy. Thin and runny, but put on regularly enough not to dry out would
    seem to do the trick.

  8. hyweldavies wrote:
    That said, I can

    Quoted message said:

    see that old car oil has got a lot of horrible sooty stuff, acids, bits
    of metal etc in it, but would still be a lot better than nothing.

    Apart from the nasties that come into used car oil while it is being
    used.
    Dont use used, use new. Works for me - a few hundred mls when changing
    oil in the car lasts me a long time.. Does get a bit messy if you don't
    wipe it off, and makes quite a nice rusty paste on the chain.

    ...d

  9. David Martin said:

    hyweldavies wrote:
    That said, I can

    Quoted message said:

    see that old car oil has got a lot of horrible sooty stuff, acids, bits
    of metal etc in it, but would still be a lot better than nothing.

    Apart from the nasties that come into used car oil while it is being
    used.
    Dont use used, use new. Works for me - a few hundred mls when changing
    oil in the car lasts me a long time.. Does get a bit messy if you don't
    wipe it off, and makes quite a nice rusty paste on the chain.

    ..d

    Renold (wouldn't want to upsett URC readers with anything but proper
    English advice) gives a whole range of viscosities depending on
    temperature for lubricating chains, and concludes that usually SAE 20/50
    will be fine

    --
    ---
    Marten Gerritsen

    INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
    www.m-gineering.nl

  10. "M-gineering" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Renold (wouldn't want to upsett URC readers with anything but proper
    English advice) gives a whole range of viscosities depending on
    temperature for lubricating chains, and concludes that usually SAE 20/50
    will be fine

    On a bicycle you don't need to use any oil if you can afford to buy a brand
    new chain every couple of months, oil makes virtually no difference to the
    performance of the chain. It's a protection against rust.

  11. On 29/05/2006 09:07, Joseph said,

    Quoted message said:

    On a bicycle you don't need to use any oil if you can afford to buy a brand
    new chain every couple of months, oil makes virtually no difference to the
    performance of the chain. It's a protection against rust.

    If life really was that simple, why not make chains out of stainless
    steel and be done with all this messy oily stuff?

    Come to think of it, why not make 'em from S/S anyway? :-)

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  12. Paul Boyd said:


    If life really was that simple, why not make chains out of stainless
    steel and be done with all this messy oily stuff?

    Come to think of it, why not make 'em from S/S anyway? :-)

    You can get SS chain from Connex at a price, but a cheaper price than
    their titanium ones.
    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=Chains&ProdID=5360018375&UberCat=0
    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=Chains&ProdID=5300003259&UberCat=0
    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=Chains&ProdID=5360012640&UberCat=0

    --
    Tony

    "Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
    his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
    - Leonardo da Vinci

  13. On 29/05/2006 15:12, Tony Raven said,

    Quoted message said:

    You can get SS chain from Connex at a price, but a cheaper price than
    their titanium ones.

    You learn something new every day! Mind you, I don't think I'll be
    rushing out to buy any at that price. As for titanium, there are people
    who can buy several bikes for the price of one of those chains!

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  14. On Mon, 29 May 2006 15:25:15 +0100, Paul Boyd <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On 29/05/2006 15:12, Tony Raven said,

    Quoted message said:

    You can get SS chain from Connex at a price, but a cheaper price than
    their titanium ones.

    You learn something new every day! Mind you, I don't think I'll be
    rushing out to buy any at that price. As for titanium, there are people
    who can buy several bikes for the price of one of those chains!

    I suppose if you want the ultimate in lightweight then you go for the
    ti one, and I guess the kind of person who is even going to consider
    it isn't gong to have a problem affording it.

    The stainless one actually looks quite attractive to me. I spend 30
    odd quid on these
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?ProdID=5360021230 and getting
    about 6 months use, so if the stainless one does over a year then it's
    worth it.

    That said, they always wear long before they rust.
    --
    http://www.addict-racing.com

  15. Paul Boyd said:

    On 29/05/2006 15:12, Tony Raven said,

    Quoted message said:

    You can get SS chain from Connex at a price, but a cheaper price than
    their titanium ones.

    You learn something new every day! Mind you, I don't think I'll be
    rushing out to buy any at that price. As for titanium, there are people
    who can buy several bikes for the price of one of those chains!

    I could buy a few hundred of the cheapest bike I've ever bought for
    the price of one of those chains. But only (I think) six of the bikes
    that are in the shed at the moment (one new child's bike, four second
    hand ones, and my folder).

  16. I googled a while ago and found this, which is quite good on chain wear
    and the like.

    http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/SRAM/chains2.htm

    He seems to recommend a home brew lubricant half and half motor oil and
    thinner for bargain maintenance, but I've not tried that myself.

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