Chain skipping problem

Erik Voldengen said:

I replaced the shifter cable/housing, deraileur jockey wheels (ultegra 8 spd), and of course chain
(SRAM). I also swapped the cassette out with a much newer one from my cross bike that has
virtually no signs of wear (made no difference).

You need a new cassette with a new chain. Put the old chain back and check what happens.

The stable situation is new cassette and old chain. If a new chain wears a little faster than the
cassette then you're okay; if it wears a little slower it will skip eventually. The best situation
is that they match but they will always mismatch because you wear different cogs differently.

Chain stretch accommodates cog hook; but chain stretch also costs you energy and wears the cogs and
chainwheels faster.
--
Ron Hardin [email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

"Erik Voldengen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm having a problem with my commuter/rain bike. Shimano 105 8spd STI shifters and rear deraileur.

The chain skips when standing up hills or sprinting, but only the middle 3-4 cogs. Same effect
using either chainring up front.

I replaced the shifter cable/housing, deraileur jockey wheels (ultegra 8 spd), and of course chain
(SRAM). I also swapped the cassette out with a much newer one from my cross bike that has
virtually no signs of wear (made no difference).

I can't seem to cure this problem by adjusting the cable tension. I'm at a loss as to why it's
skipping so bad.

I did notice the top jockey wheel I bought doesn't have much float to it, making me wonder if
ultegra 8 spd jockey wheels work with 105 8 spd deraileurs. My LBS said yes.

If anyone knows what I could try next, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks, Erik

Ron Hardin said:

Erik Voldengen wrote:

The stable situation is new cassette and old chain.

Bad advice! all that will do is wear the new cassette to fit the old chain!

I did some more fiddling. The skip isn't really a skip, but the chain trying to ride up to the
next gear. Only happens in the middle gears, and only when applying a lot of pressure, like
standing up a hill.

If I adjust the rear der. cable tension to avoid this, the lower and higher gears won't shift
correctly. Maybe my shifters are bad? No idea...Any have some good advice?

(Erik Voldengen) said:

I did some more fiddling. The skip isn't really a skip, but the chain trying to ride up to the
next gear. Only happens in the middle gears, and only when applying a lot of pressure, like
standing up a hill.

Best cycling is done while remaining seated for a multitude of reasons. Not sure if this can be done
or not. Cycling while standing also tilts and possibly jerks the bike from one side to the other and
I've often wondered if this could cause the chain to try and grab the next gear up or down. It is
not only the chain, but possibly the rear derailleur as well that could be on the move.

Just my 2 bits.

Bert

Quoted message said:

If I adjust the rear der. cable tension to avoid this, the lower and higher gears won't shift
correctly. Maybe my shifters are bad? No idea...Any have some good advice?

Quoted message said:

Best cycling is done while remaining seated for a multitude of reasons.

This is true, but if you're on a long ride, it's also important to use different muscle groups while
you relax others.

Anyway, I get ghost shifts when I've "stretched my chain" (assuming it's tuned properly). You can
get a measuring tool and see if you need a new chain. I'm sure you've already done this, but it's
also good to keep your drivetrain clean, and lube the chain.

- JD

Quoted message said:

Best cycling is done while remaining seated for a multitude of reasons.

Oh PA-LEEESE. Thanks for that one, Bert 😉

Still looking for a solution. I'm going to switch out my rear der. tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it,
it's gotta be my shifters are worn out 🙁

-Erik

Check out Sheldon's page on ghost shifting at sheldonbrown.comautoshift.htmlOpen ↗

He says "The usual cause of the problem, believe it or not, is the cable guide that the derailer
cable uses to get around the bottom bracket. As you pedal the bike, the frame flexes from side to
side. This causes the gear cable to get tighter and looser with every other pedal stroke."

Try lubricating the guide. The cable might have worn a groove in the plastic. if so, then
replace it.

r.b.

[email hidden] (Erik Voldengen) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Best cycling is done while remaining seated for a multitude of reasons.

Oh PA-LEEESE. Thanks for that one, Bert 😉

Still looking for a solution. I'm going to switch out my rear der. tomorrow. If that doesn't fix
it, it's gotta be my shifters are worn out 🙁

-Erik

Try buying a frame that does not flex!

"rb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Check out Sheldon's page on ghost shifting at sheldonbrown.comautoshift.htmlOpen ↗

He says "The usual cause of the problem, believe it or not, is the cable guide that the derailer
cable uses to get around the bottom bracket. As you pedal the bike, the frame flexes from side to
side. This causes the gear cable to get tighter and looser with every other pedal stroke."

Try lubricating the guide. The cable might have worn a groove in the plastic. if so, then
replace it.

r.b.

[email hidden] (Erik Voldengen) wrote in message

news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Best cycling is done while remaining seated for a multitude of reasons.

Oh PA-LEEESE. Thanks for that one, Bert 😉

Still looking for a solution. I'm going to switch out my rear der. tomorrow. If that doesn't fix
it, it's gotta be my shifters are worn out 🙁

-Erik

Openworld said:

Try buying a frame that does not flex!

Do you have any suggestions? I have never seen or ridden one.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR