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Chain Wear

Started by Jim · · Last activity · 11 posts · 493 views

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UK and Europe
Published
18 September 2007
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19 September 2007
Original author
Jim
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11
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  1. I borrowed a Park Tool chain wear gauge at work and tested my chain. It's
    the original chain and it's done 2700miles. Anyway the gauge slipped in
    between the links on the "1" side very easily, infact there was still some
    play visible so I'm guessing my chain has stretched 1.25 - 1.5%, bummer!
    My colleague reckons that with that degree of wear I'll almost certainly
    need a new cassette if not chainrings as well.
    So my dilemma is.
    Do I fit a new chain potentially just to find out that it won't work with
    the worn cogs, subsequently replaciong them too.
    or
    Carry on using the old chain on the assumption that the cogs are goosed
    already anyway then replace the whole shebang once I've squeeze another 1000
    miles of winter riding out of them.
    Any thoughts?

    Cheers
    Jim J

  2. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
    says...

    Quoted message said:

    I borrowed a Park Tool chain wear gauge at work and tested my chain. It's
    the original chain and it's done 2700miles. Anyway the gauge slipped in
    between the links on the "1" side very easily, infact there was still some
    play visible so I'm guessing my chain has stretched 1.25 - 1.5%, bummer!
    My colleague reckons that with that degree of wear I'll almost certainly
    need a new cassette if not chainrings as well.
    So my dilemma is.
    Do I fit a new chain potentially just to find out that it won't work with
    the worn cogs, subsequently replaciong them too.
    or
    Carry on using the old chain on the assumption that the cogs are goosed
    already anyway then replace the whole shebang once I've squeeze another 1000
    miles of winter riding out of them.
    Any thoughts?

    Try a new chain and if it skips, put the old one back on and run it
    until its dead, preferably with an old set of chainrings on the front to
    save it getting too expensive when you do change.

    --
    Tony

    " I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
    Bertrand Russell

  3. Jim said:

    I borrowed a Park Tool chain wear gauge at work and tested my chain. It's
    the original chain and it's done 2700miles. Anyway the gauge slipped in
    between the links on the "1" side very easily, infact there was still some
    play visible so I'm guessing my chain has stretched 1.25 - 1.5%, bummer!
    My colleague reckons that with that degree of wear I'll almost certainly
    need a new cassette if not chainrings as well.
    So my dilemma is.
    Do I fit a new chain potentially just to find out that it won't work with
    the worn cogs, subsequently replaciong them too.
    or
    Carry on using the old chain on the assumption that the cogs are goosed
    already anyway then replace the whole shebang once I've squeeze another 1000
    miles of winter riding out of them.
    Any thoughts?

    I think with that amount of wear your chainrings are probably OK, so it
    might be worth replacing chain and cassette now to save the rings.

    Have a look at the teeth on the chainring. If they look OK and not
    hooked or sawtooth-looking they probably are.

    OTOH if you're using fairly cheap components it might work out the same
    or cheaper just to do nothing until it actually starts skipping and then
    replace the lot.

    Although replacing chainsets can be a bit annoying because you have to
    worry about whether you have the right BB axle length.

  4. "Ben C" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I think with that amount of wear your chainrings are probably OK, so it
    might be worth replacing chain and cassette now to save the rings.

    Have a look at the teeth on the chainring. If they look OK and not
    hooked or sawtooth-looking they probably are.

    OTOH if you're using fairly cheap components it might work out the same
    or cheaper just to do nothing until it actually starts skipping and then
    replace the lot.

    Although replacing chainsets can be a bit annoying because you have to
    worry about whether you have the right BB axle length.

    My chainrings are nothing special (it's a Dawes Horizon) so I wouldn't be
    aversed to replacing them in the future.
    Perhaps the best bet is to try (Tony's idea) a new chain and if it's okay
    then fine but if not put the old one back.
    I suppose what I need for partially worn cogs is a chain that is a bit less
    worn than the cogs, so it'll still work but not exacerbate the existing
    wear.
    That got me thinking about cascading chains down from good bikes to duffers.
    Constant chain replacement on multiple bikes is expensive so I thought it
    might be economical to keep a fairly new chain on my best bike, to preserve
    the cogs, transferring the chain to my lower spec'ed bike where parts a
    cheaper to replace. That would mean that my "good" bike would always have a
    chain at between say 0 - 0.75% wear and the "duff" bike would be running
    chains at between 0.75%-1.5% wear. Of course the money saving plan falls
    flat on it's face as I don't know which of my two bikes is the "good" one
    deserving of the newest chain.
    Cheers
    Jim J

  5. Jim said:

    Of course the money saving plan falls
    flat on it's face as I don't know which of my two bikes is the "good" one
    deserving of the newest chain.

    That's the easy bit, get a new "good" bike! Go on! You know you want to.

    --
    Don Whybrow

    Sequi Bonum Non Time

    Question _your own_ authority.

  6. Jim said:

    I borrowed a Park Tool chain wear gauge at work and tested my chain.

    That reminds m of a question I've been meaning to ask. Can you get a
    chain wear guide for 1/8 chains anywhere?

    Many thanks,

    Duncan

  7. Quoted message said:

    That reminds m of a question I've been meaning to ask.  Can you geta
    chain wear guide for 1/8 chains anywhere?

    Same tool as the 1/8 and 3/32 do not refer to the length between the
    rollers.
    --
    del 8-)

  8. Duncan Smith said:
    Jim said:

    I borrowed a Park Tool chain wear gauge at work and tested my chain.

    That reminds m of a question I've been meaning to ask. Can you get a
    chain wear guide for 1/8 chains anywhere?

    Many thanks,

    Duncan

    Use a rule.

  9. Jim said:

    "Ben C" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I think with that amount of wear your chainrings are probably OK, so
    it might be worth replacing chain and cassette now to save the rings.

    Have a look at the teeth on the chainring. If they look OK and not
    hooked or sawtooth-looking they probably are.

    OTOH if you're using fairly cheap components it might work out the
    same or cheaper just to do nothing until it actually starts skipping
    and then replace the lot.

    Although replacing chainsets can be a bit annoying because you have
    to worry about whether you have the right BB axle length.

    My chainrings are nothing special (it's a Dawes Horizon) so I
    wouldn't be aversed to replacing them in the future.

    Have you got a particular reason to replace them? Do you want to try
    different sizes; do you want lighter or shinier ones? If not, you may save
    money in the long run by changing the chain (and cassette if necessary) now.

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps the best bet is to try (Tony's idea) a new chain and if it's
    okay then fine but if not put the old one back.
    I suppose what I need for partially worn cogs is a chain that is a
    bit less worn than the cogs, so it'll still work but not exacerbate
    the existing wear.
    That got me thinking about cascading chains down from good bikes to
    duffers. Constant chain replacement on multiple bikes is expensive so I
    thought it might be economical to keep a fairly new chain on my
    best bike, to preserve the cogs, transferring the chain to my lower
    spec'ed bike where parts a cheaper to replace. That would mean that
    my "good" bike would always have a chain at between say 0 - 0.75%
    wear and the "duff" bike would be running chains at between
    0.75%-1.5% wear. Of course the money saving plan falls flat on it's
    face as I don't know which of my two bikes is the "good" one
    deserving of the newest chain. Cheers

    Even if it could save money (?), it would be tricky to get the plan working
    as chain and cog wear has to be matched quite closely.

    Reminds me of when I used to buy second-hand bikes and canibalise them. A
    chain from one bike rarely worked with sprockets from another bike, even
    though both bikes looked like they had about the same amount of use.

    ~PB

  10. "Don Whybrow" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jim said:

    Of course the money saving plan falls flat on it's face as I don't know
    which of my two bikes is the "good" one deserving of the newest chain.

    That's the easy bit, get a new "good" bike! Go on! You know you want to.


    Actually if I get a minute tomorrow I'm going to nip in to the LBS and order
    a 2008 Giant SCR 1.5. and the best bit is that my employer will be picking
    up the tab (at least in the short term).
    Cheers
    Jim J

  11. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Have you got a particular reason to replace them? Do you want to try
    different sizes; do you want lighter or shinier ones? If not, you may
    save money in the long run by changing the chain (and cassette if
    necessary) now.


    I like lighter shiner ones the Horizon's look like something off a tractor.

    Quoted message said:

    Even if it could save money (?), it would be tricky to get the plan
    working as chain and cog wear has to be matched quite closely.
    ~PB


    Yeah, the chainrings will wear less quickly and even the different rear cogs
    won't all wear at the same rate, my smallest one must be in mint condition!
    Oh Well
    Jim J

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