Chrome + steel = slip

Squid-in-Training said:

I did a townie conversion on my old road bike.

I switched out the threadless stem for a rusty high-rise single-bolt. The
bar is a new cruiser-type bar with lots of leverage for rotation.

The bar slips in the clamp, and I don't want to tighten down the bolt any
further, as I fear I may strip the threads (which I've done many a time
before).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the two parts to clamp
better? I'm looking for a <$1 solution. Here's what I have so far:

1. Electrolytically corroding the handlebar and the stem together with
regular applications of salt water.
2. Sanding
3. JB Weld
4. Actually weld them together

Combining solutions 1 and 2 seem to be the trick. Any others?

Dear Phil,

Shim it?

Carl Fogel

Would a handlebar shim like this work?

http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/handlebars_stems_tape/16095.html

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 00:24:07 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"

may have said:

I did a townie conversion on my old road bike.

I switched out the threadless stem for a rusty high-rise single-bolt. The
bar is a new cruiser-type bar with lots of leverage for rotation.

The bar slips in the clamp, and I don't want to tighten down the bolt any
further, as I fear I may strip the threads (which I've done many a time
before).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the two parts to clamp
better? I'm looking for a <$1 solution. Here's what I have so far:

1. Electrolytically corroding the handlebar and the stem together with
regular applications of salt water.
2. Sanding
3. JB Weld
4. Actually weld them together

Combining solutions 1 and 2 seem to be the trick. Any others?

Add one layer of cola can between the clamp and the bars.

Spread the clamp open, coat the center of the bar with automotive
valve lapping compound (assuming you've got some, doesn't everyone?)
and tighten normally.

Sandblast the two surfaces and put them back together dry.

Use a very sharp cold chisel to make some lengthwise ridges in the bar
before reassembly.

Get a stronger bolt, and tighten it the bejeezus out of it.

Dig around in Le Carton du Junque for a stem that clamps better.

Stick a post-it on the bars to remind you to Stay Seated; Don't Lean
Forward. (Only works if you don't have to ride where there's traffic,
of course.)

--
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Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 00:24:07 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"

may have said:

I did a townie conversion on my old road bike.

I switched out the threadless stem for a rusty high-rise single-bolt.
The
bar is a new cruiser-type bar with lots of leverage for rotation.

The bar slips in the clamp, and I don't want to tighten down the bolt any
further, as I fear I may strip the threads (which I've done many a time
before).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the two parts to clamp
better? I'm looking for a <$1 solution. Here's what I have so far:

1. Electrolytically corroding the handlebar and the stem together with
regular applications of salt water.
2. Sanding
3. JB Weld
4. Actually weld them together

Combining solutions 1 and 2 seem to be the trick. Any others?

Add one layer of cola can between the clamp and the bars.

I forgot about this one... will try it.

Quoted message said:

Spread the clamp open, coat the center of the bar with automotive
valve lapping compound (assuming you've got some, doesn't everyone?)
and tighten normally.

Uh...

Quoted message said:

Sandblast the two surfaces and put them back together dry.

I'll try *sanding* them.

Quoted message said:

Use a very sharp cold chisel to make some lengthwise ridges in the bar
before reassembly.

They actually already have ridges in them...

Quoted message said:

Get a stronger bolt, and tighten it the bejeezus out of it.

Bolt will strip.

Quoted message said:

Dig around in Le Carton du Junque for a stem that clamps better.

That's where it came from in the first place!

Quoted message said:

Stick a post-it on the bars to remind you to Stay Seated; Don't Lean
Forward. (Only works if you don't have to ride where there's traffic,
of course.)

Actually I just need to keep other people off the bike 😉

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

I did a townie conversion on my old road bike.

I switched out the threadless stem for a rusty high-rise single-bolt. The
bar is a new cruiser-type bar with lots of leverage for rotation.

The bar slips in the clamp, and I don't want to tighten down the bolt any
further, as I fear I may strip the threads (which I've done many a time
before).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the two parts to clamp
better? I'm looking for a <$1 solution. Here's what I have so far:

1. Electrolytically corroding the handlebar and the stem together with
regular applications of salt water.
2. Sanding
3. JB Weld
4. Actually weld them together

Combining solutions 1 and 2 seem to be the trick. Any others?

What I have done in the past is to put a few drops of Krazy Glue in
between the two contacting surfaces. You have to be quick to adjust the
position before the glue sets. Remove the bolt before you apply the glue
and put it back after the glue dries.

An alternative is to apply a thin layer of KrazyGlue on both surfaces
and wait till dry, then put them together.
GH

Phil said:

I did a townie conversion on my old road bike.

I switched out the threadless stem for a rusty high-rise single-bolt. The
bar is a new cruiser-type bar with lots of leverage for rotation.

The bar slips in the clamp, and I don't want to tighten down the bolt any
further, as I fear I may strip the threads (which I've done many a time
before).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the two parts to clamp
better? I'm looking for a <$1 solution. Here's what I have so far:

1. Electrolytically corroding the handlebar and the stem together with
regular applications of salt water.
2. Sanding
3. JB Weld
4. Actually weld them together

Combining solutions 1 and 2 seem to be the trick. Any others?

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

How about some washers?

Pete

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 06:38:16 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"

may have said:

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

Get a stronger bolt, and tighten it the bejeezus out of it.

Bolt will strip.

ITYM that the hole it goes into will strip. I've got fasteners here
that will come close to converting the items they clamp into condensed
matter before the threads on the bolts will let go.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Dig around in Le Carton du Junque for a stem that clamps better.

That's where it came from in the first place!

You obviously need a better class of Junque, then...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Stick a post-it on the bars to remind you to Stay Seated; Don't Lean
Forward. (Only works if you don't have to ride where there's traffic,
of course.)

Actually I just need to keep other people off the bike 😉

There you go.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 08:34:26 -0500, cc011 <cc011@com_and_cast.net> may

have said:

An alternative is to apply a thin layer of KrazyGlue on both surfaces
and wait till dry, then put them together.

I take it that you've never been one of the merry pranksters who
dripped a little superglue onto the seat of a carefully selected chair
between classes, then.

The stuff will often remain liquid, ready to set when air is excluded,
for days or weeks...unless it comes into contact with the right kind
of surface, such as skin. Most cyanoacrylate adhesives are anaerobic.
That's why they are packaged in tubes and bottles that have some air
in them; if the container was entirely full, the stuff would set.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.