Clamp on brake hanger.

In article <[email hidden]>, del
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Does anybody know of a front brake cable hanger that will clamp around a
1" quill stem? A drop of around 2.5" will be good, won't have to trim
cable outer, but not essential.

Traditional front cable hangers generally fit under the headset locknut
rather than clamping to the stem - is there a reason you need a clamping
one?

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, del
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Does anybody know of a front brake cable hanger that will clamp
around a 1" quill stem? A drop of around 2.5" will be good, won't
have to trim cable outer, but not essential.

Traditional front cable hangers generally fit under the headset
locknut rather than clamping to the stem - is there a reason you need
a clamping one?

My elderly galaxy has a shallow, 29mm, headset stack. I've got a new
Tange headset but to fit it I've got to re/move the cable hanger and
use it's own tab lock ring not the hanger lock ring as fitted OEM.
--
del 8-)

del said:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, del
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Does anybody know of a front brake cable hanger that will clamp
around a 1" quill stem? A drop of around 2.5" will be good, won't
have to trim cable outer, but not essential.

Traditional front cable hangers generally fit under the headset
locknut rather than clamping to the stem - is there a reason you need
a clamping one?

My elderly galaxy has a shallow, 29mm, headset stack. I've got a new
Tange headset but to fit it I've got to re/move the cable hanger and
use it's own tab lock ring not the hanger lock ring as fitted OEM.

Alternative suggestion:

Replace brake with a dual-pivot caliper. This wouldn't need a hanger at
all, and might also improve your braking.

~PB

"del" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

Does anybody know of a front brake cable hanger that will clamp
around a 1" quill stem? A drop of around 2.5" will be good, won't
have to trim cable outer, but not essential.

KF:

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/index.php/product/BP14A.html

Syncros:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-0-Syncros-Alloy-Deep-Drop-Front-Hanger-25.4mm-bore-with-alloy-shim-to-22.2mm-A-Key-clamp-with-90deg-lead-pipe--Black-5861.htm

The KF doesn't look to have much drop.

A crown-mounting hanger is an alternative, but you'll need a longer cable
housing:

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/index.php/product/BP1272F.html

None of the above have a barrel adjuster to adjust cable tension, but you
can add one in the housing run, or even tap the hanger to fit a barrel.

James Thomson

del said:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, del
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Does anybody know of a front brake cable hanger that will clamp
around a 1" quill stem? A drop of around 2.5" will be good, won't
have to trim cable outer, but not essential.

Traditional front cable hangers generally fit under the headset
locknut rather than clamping to the stem - is there a reason you need
a clamping one?

My elderly galaxy has a shallow, 29mm, headset stack. I've got a new
Tange headset but to fit it I've got to re/move the cable hanger and
use it's own tab lock ring not the hanger lock ring as fitted OEM.

<lateral thinking> How about a noodle clamped to the bars with a
jubilee clip? Perhaps one of the 130 degree ones bent a little to form
two curves with a straight between them.

Less latteraly, but more round about...

I found some clamp-round-stem hangers over the pond here
http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=7&major=2&minor=7
Then in the uk here
http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/index.php/brand/fishergeneric.html?action=page&id=3

A handy tip for finding these things is to use Google image search
with uk added to the string. I searched for cantilever cable hanger uk
and the Fisher's page was 3rd and 4th
--
Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks"

Quoted message said:

A handy tip for finding these things is to use Google image search
with uk added to the string. I searched for cantilever cable hanger uk
and the Fisher's page was 3rd and 4th

The top left one on the link was the one that RM suggested, crown
fitting, I was considering a similar thing that Ridgeback have been
putting on some of their bikes.

I'm not very good at www searches, google or otherwise, but thanks for
the tip.
--
del 8-)

Quoted message said:

Syncros:

The KF doesn't look to have much drop.

The KF would have done but the drop on the syncros is fine.

Many thanks,
--
del 8-)

Quoted message said:

Alternative suggestion:

Replace brake with a dual-pivot caliper.  This wouldn't need a hanger
at all, and might also improve your braking.

But the hanger is a few GBPs, while a new caliper is a few more GBPs.
The original cantilevers are fine though and no need to change them
yet.

--
del 8-)

del said:

Quoted message said:

Alternative suggestion:

Replace brake with a dual-pivot caliper. This wouldn't need a hanger
at all, and might also improve your braking.

But the hanger is a few GBPs, while a new caliper is a few more GBPs.
The original cantilevers are fine though and no need to change them
yet.

I appreciate that it'll be more expensive. I was only suggesting it in case
you happened to be less than thoroughly happy with your current brake as
well.

~PB

Quoted message said:

I appreciate that it'll be more expensive.  I was only suggesting it
in case you happened to be less than thoroughly happy with your
current brake as well.

Thank you for the suggestion, it is most welcome, thanks everyone for
the replies.

While I'm happy with the current cantis I have been considering other
options, calipers was one and V brakes +levers another. New forks,
thread less though, with appropriate headset etc. New forks, 1 1/8"
thread less with head stock/frame changes etc. A new bike is way down
the list but still an option.
The clamp on hanger is a gap filler while I decide which way to go.

I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not sure ;-)
--
del 8-)

Phil Cook said:

<lateral thinking> How about a noodle clamped to the bars with a
jubilee clip? Perhaps one of the 130 degree ones bent a little to form
two curves with a straight between them.

Another way, if the stem has a forward extension, is to use the stem
itself as the hanger: drill an 'outer-sized' hole in the top of the stem
extension and an 'inner-sized' one in the bottom. Costs nothing and
looks neat. Once upon a time, you could buy stems like this (maybe you
still can...)

--
Andrew

In article <[email hidden]>, Naqerj
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Phil Cook said:

<lateral thinking> How about a noodle clamped to the bars with a
jubilee clip? Perhaps one of the 130 degree ones bent a little to form
two curves with a straight between them.

Another way, if the stem has a forward extension, is to use the stem
itself as the hanger: drill an 'outer-sized' hole in the top of the stem
extension and an 'inner-sized' one in the bottom. Costs nothing and
looks neat. Once upon a time, you could buy stems like this (maybe you
still can...)

I was going to suggest that, then I thought better of it because I
wouldn't want to be responsible for killing someone - some stems will
happily take this sort of treatment while others will turn into an
accident waiting to happen.

Naqerj said:

Phil Cook said:

<lateral thinking> How about a noodle clamped to the bars with a
jubilee clip? Perhaps one of the 130 degree ones bent a little to form
two curves with a straight between them.

Another way, if the stem has a forward extension, is to use the stem
itself as the hanger: drill an 'outer-sized' hole in the top of the stem
extension and an 'inner-sized' one in the bottom. Costs nothing and
looks neat. Once upon a time, you could buy stems like this (maybe you
still can...)

I've done that back in the days of exposed cables and centre-pull
brakes. What I actually did was to drill the inner hole all the way
through from the top and then counter-bore it with the outer sized
drill. If you try and drill from oposite sides they will almost never
be concentric..

--
Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks"

Quoted message said:

Another way, if the stem has a forward extension, is to use the stem
itself as the hanger: drill an 'outer-sized' hole in the top of the
stem extension and an 'inner-sized' one in the bottom.

It's a good idea but I wouldn't like to try it out unless I was sure of
the manufacture of the stem and it wouldn't be excessively weakened by
the drilling.
Rob M is right "some stems will
happily take this sort of treatment while others will turn into an
accident waiting to happen."
--
del 8-)

del said:

Quoted message said:

Another way, if the stem has a forward extension, is to use the stem
itself as the hanger: drill an 'outer-sized' hole in the top of the
stem extension and an 'inner-sized' one in the bottom.

It's a good idea but I wouldn't like to try it out unless I was sure of
the manufacture of the stem and it wouldn't be excessively weakened by
the drilling.
Rob M is right "some stems will
happily take this sort of treatment while others will turn into an
accident waiting to happen."

Indeed. Some stems will obviously take it - I'm thinking of ones that
are cast to look a bit like lugs (IYSWIM). I reckon that most stems
have enough 'fail-safe' strength built in and I would be happy to do
this on almost bike stem... but I'd think twice about doing it on a trike.

And as Phil says, drilling through with the small drill and then opening
up the top hole to the larger size is far and away the best way of going
about it.
--
Andrew

Phil Cook said:

I've done that back in the days of exposed cables and centre-pull
brakes. What I actually did was to drill the inner hole all the way
through from the top and then counter-bore it with the outer sized
drill. If you try and drill from oposite sides they will almost never
be concentric..

Yes... thanks Phil, I should have said that.
--
Andrew