Coker rim/cranks observation

Yeah the rim weight seems to make a hell of a difference. I found my
airfoil/125mm alloy cranks wheel to be easier to accelerate than my
steel rim/150mm steel crank wheel, despite it being a higher gear.

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kington99 said:

Yeah the rim weight seems to make a hell of a difference. I found my
airfoil/125mm alloy cranks wheel to be easier to accelerate than my
steel rim/150mm steel crank wheel, despite it being a higher gear.

Now that's amazing, and I totally can believe that! Yeah I felt that
when I rode john's Coker it was as easy or maybe even easier to ride
than with the standard 152's on a steel rim. I was mainly wondering if
there were maybe some other factors involved other than weight, like
the more aerodynamic shape of the rim. Thanks.🙂

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What doesn't kill you makes you stronger! From what I've heard it seems
to be the lighter rolling weight of the airfoil which makes the
difference. I've got a radial with steel rim, alloy 125mm cranks and
coker tire at 50psi and the setup isn't exactly zippy but I enjoy it.
At first I had difficulty wielding the beast but since I've gained much
more control and strength.

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mscalisi said:

We only need one 36" rim, one that doesn't suck. A properly sized KH rim
(like the 29er only larger) would be awesome.

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I have steel rim and cranks, and I get up to speed just fine.

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if u have a light car it gets up to speed faster than a heavier car
right...
so if u have a light coker it will get up to speed faster than a
heavier coker..

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Jerrick said:

I have steel rim and cranks, and I get up to speed just fine.

That's good, but from what I'm sensing from those who have ridden *both*
steel -then- airfoils, is that everything is just that much easier and
faster. Again, that's not to say that your setup isn't fine for you.
Have you made the comparison, and did you find any substantial
difference? Btw, what size/material cranks are you using?

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I'm guessing that's more rim the rim then the cranks. Were the spokes
the same?

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mscalisi said:

I'm guessing that's more rim the rim then the cranks. Were the spokes
the same?

Yeah John has the 12 gauge non-stainless spokes, as does my loaner. only
real difference is the rim and crank material; length is identical.

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I said both rim and crank were steel. =p

Umm, length is 127, or 125, I cant remember which ones I bought. Pretty
sure its the 127s though.

I dont know, I just have never cared too much about weight, or even
think about it when riding. I hop on and start pedaling, and in a few
revs im up to my cruising speed and I jsut relax and float.

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Jerrick said:

I said both rim and crank were steel. =p

Umm, length is 127, or 125, I cant remember which ones I bought. Pretty
sure its the 127s though.

I dont know, I just have never cared too much about weight, or even
think about it when riding. I hop on and start pedaling, and in a few
revs im up to my cruising speed and I jsut relax and float.

Oh yeah sorry I saw that you did mention alum!:o Well that's cool. I
rode a friends steel rimmed coker for a 20 miler using 152mm (steel)
cranks and it was smooth as butta!

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Yeah, you just get more leverage which helps move the steel rim. I had
150ish cranks on at first, and rode those a lot, but bent them doing
muni, and then bought shorter cranks just for fun.

At first, hills felt a little harder to get up, but now they feel the
sme as how the longer cranks feel.

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There's certainly nothing wrong with that, but lighter components will
get you there faster. To those of us who do a significant amount of
riding on 36ers, the higher performance components are worth it. For a
more casual rider, steel is indeed fine.

Just like square taper cranks might fine for a casual MUni rider, but
don't really serve the needs of those who want to take it to the next
level.

Jerrick said:

I have steel rim and cranks, and I get up to speed just fine.

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i santa cruz, many of us despise aluminum cranks; they break way too
easily (right jason?). I've seen it happen a few times on rides. Steel
is the way to go, although, it will bend...

corbin

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corbin said:

i santa cruz, many of us despise aluminum cranks; they break way too
easily (right jason?). I've seen it happen a few times on rides. Steel
is the way to go, although, it will bend...

corbin

They break? Is that under "normal" riding conditions, or offroad riding
where there's probably a lot more stress on them? That _still_
shouldn't cause them to break should it? The *KH Moment cranks are
aluminum* and I haven't heard of any of those breaking, and I do 5'
drops with them! Or could it be the inferior quality of *some* alum
cranks that cause them to break?😕

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It all makes sense to me...better parts = better unicycle.

Although, like many above me have said, I ride just fine on the steel
rim and cranks. I've never thought to myself that I don't get up to
speed quick enough.

I think you have to consider the conditions in which you'll be riding.
If you're riding on mostly flat..your weight really doesn't matter.

Brian O. said:

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MuniAddict said:

They break? Is that under "normal" riding conditions, or offroad riding
where there's probably a lot more stress on them? That _still_
shouldn't cause them to break should it? The *KH Moment cranks are
aluminum* and I haven't heard of any of those breaking, and I do 5'
drops with them! Or could it be the inferior quality of *some* alum
cranks that cause them to break?😕

It's Coker muni, although, the time they break is when people are going
down steep hills and applying a lot of pressure. Jason broke one were
the pedal screw area was just trashed while going down a steep hill
with no brake. Taking pedals on and off will wear them away more
quickly than steel. Rob has broken many of them; he says they "snap".
You would hope they wouldn't break..but they do!

The KH cranks and hub are very different; they are a lot beefier (and
splined) than the tapered coker cranks.

-corbin

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I've liked my aluminum tri-drilled Kookas a lot, and they've held up
very well. A thousand miles plus now with no adjustment, loosening, or
issue of any sort. Although I have heard that Kooka has historically
been one of the strongest aluminum cranks, so maybe that is why.

On the climbing difficulty you mentioned, it may be due to flex with
the steel rim that you are not conscious of because you're busy
climbing, but it nevertheless adds to the effort needed. When I bought
my first coker, stock w steel rim, etc., I noticed a clicking sound on
my wheel whenever I was doing a semi-steep climb or descent. It wasn't
there on the flats. Turned out it was my computer magnet hitting the
"reader", and the reason it was hitting it was due to wheel flex. I
would not have really noticed the flex if it wasn't for that noise.

That said--and just my humble opinion Terry--but I think you're
over-thinking this whole steel stock versus airfoil versus crank
material versus blah topic. You're serial posting. I think one
challenge may be the relatively short comparison rides on the different
models you've tried. The "feel" of any given one could be influenced by
a number of factors, and it takes multiple longer rides (in my view) on
any given beast before you can really assess or make strong
comparisons. When I first got my GB4 36, it felt strange to ride after
my stock coker. The sage advice I got from U-Turn was to put on some
miles. And then some more miles. Then see if I still felt the same.

My reco would be maximize around the wheel first, meaning get the
Airfoil rim, wide hub, and the strongest wheel build you can afford.
You'll ultimately benefit from the extra strength and longevity, and
knowing how you like to hop around, if you had a steel rim you would
one day give in to the temptation to do some curbs or something, and
you'll eventually mess it up. Ask Harper...who was fine for thousands
of miles on his stock coker, then decided one day to get into the stair
hopping business.

If you can save some on crank weight, great, but personally I'd
maximize around other factors like preferred Q, etc. In case of my
current setup, I maximized around flexibility. While the Kookas are not
the lightest of aluminum cranks, the tri-drill option gives me
flexibility to change crank lengths, which suits the kind of riding I
do. For a while I had a pair of steel 140s that were quite heavy, but
they worked great and I got used to them quickly and they would
accelerate and climb fine. Once you get into a good wheel and frame,
the other details make less of a difference...you'll get used to
anything once you've put in some miles.

$.02,

TB

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tomblackwood said:

You're serial posting.

$.02,TB

Couldn't resist! 😉

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MuniAddict said:

Couldn't resist! HAha howabout that! Cereal, Post (brand) and unicycle
all in one "Serial post!"😉

Dude....🙄

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