Cold galvanizing

Quoted message said:

One other note: In my experience, cold galvanizing coatings will not
stop or [censored] corrosion that's already present.

Even if sandpapered off? I'm not to good with Rust Dynamics 101.

Adam Rush said:

I'm looking to repaint the front fork on my army bike, as it has
worrying rust. I've gotten a hold of the original one-size-fits-all
green army paint, but I thought that maybe I'd want to do a little
extra. At a local hardware store, I found a can of "cold galvanizing
zinc spray" ("zinkspray, kallgalvanisering," in any case) for use as an
undercoat or primer on things like boat trailers.

Would this hurt, help, or do nothing?

(BTW, as long as it still ends up green, I don't care how ugly the
paint job turns out.)

go to the hardware store and get one of the paints that stabilizes the
oxides. i forget name brands, but you can wire brush, paint, leave 6
weeks [for the chemistry to work], and repaint to your desire. don't
bother with that zinc [censored].

Don't bother with the brand name, as I almost certainly don't have
access to it.

Quoted message said:

As an undercoat before applying your army green paint, I
doubt that you'll have problems unless the army green paint is
lacquer-based.

What exactly is lacquer? Is that synonymous with acrylic, in practice?

Adam Rush said:

Don't bother with the brand name, as I almost certainly don't have
access to it.

you don't have access to your local hardware store??? how odd.

I don't have access to *your* local hardware store. There aren't many
of the same name brands here in Sweden when it comes to products like
this.

Adam

If you do go the "cold galv." route, you can help insure the paint
adhesion by wiping the galv. w/ a mild acid such as vinegar. Rinse the
acid off prior to painting. Cold Galv. works surprisingly well for such
a "quick & dirty" option. Just don't paint over shinny zinc.

Have fun, John

Adam Rush said:

I don't have access to *your* local hardware store. There aren't many
of the same name brands here in Sweden when it comes to products like
this.

ok. but look/ask around when you're at /your/ local store. i believe
products like this to be commonly available.

"Adam Rush" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm looking to repaint the front fork on my army bike, as it has
worrying rust. I've gotten a hold of the original one-size-fits-all
green army paint, but I thought that maybe I'd want to do a little
extra. At a local hardware store, I found a can of "cold galvanizing
zinc spray" ("zinkspray, kallgalvanisering," in any case) for use as an
undercoat or primer on things like boat trailers.

Would this hurt, help, or do nothing?

(BTW, as long as it still ends up green, I don't care how ugly the
paint job turns out.)

Use something like Naval Jelly to strip all the oxide. It leaves an iron
phosphate coating that is stable, bites paint, and helps to prevent future
corrosion. If you leave rust on the surface then noting layered on top
helps or stays put.

Me

Adam Rush said:

Quoted message said:

As an undercoat before applying your army green paint, I
doubt that you'll have problems unless the army green paint is
lacquer-based.

What exactly is lacquer? Is that synonymous with acrylic, in practice?

Acrylic fractions may be found in both lacquers and enamels. Most
solvent-based paints sold today are enamels.

Lacquer is a type of solvent-based paint which differs in several ways
from enamels. It's not used much anymore, but there's a possibility
that if it's old stuff, the army-green paint you have might be
lacquer. If it is, and if the cold galvanizing compound uses a
vehicle that's more like enamel, the whole thing could end up looking
like wrinkle-finish paint. If that happens, let it dry a bit, scrape
and wipe off the mess with a solvent rag, and then paint again with
just the army green paint.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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Adam Rush said:

Quoted message said:

One other note: In my experience, cold galvanizing coatings will not
stop or [censored] corrosion that's already present.

Even if sandpapered off? I'm not to good with Rust Dynamics 101.

Sandpaper levels off the corrosion to the surface of the surrounding
metal. If there's any penetration of the corrosion below the surface,
sandpaper won't get it out unless used more vigorously than you are
likely to want to attempt.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Werehatrack" wrote: (clip)there's a possibility that if it's old stuff,
the army-green paint you have might be lacquer. If it is, and if the cold
galvanizing compound uses a vehicle that's more like enamel, the whole thing
could end up looking like wrinkle-finish paint. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear "Rack--I think you may have your facts reversed. It is lacquer that
will wrinkle existing enamel. Putting enamel over lacquer should be no
problem.

If the surface is rusty AND pitted, then sanding will likely not get all the
rust. I suggest using a primer like Rustoleum, which is formulated to
penetrate rust and arrest it. There is extra oil in this type of primer
which is supposed to penetrate the rust, surround it, and then dry, leaving
a stable surface for finishing. There are also spray finishes which are
formulated to go directly over rust. They work for me, but I have no
long-term results to prove they are REALLY good.

Cold galvanizing compounds do work, but they require meticulous preparation
of the base metal. Used correctly they are very effective, but that usually
means sandblasting followed by immediate cold galvanizing. This ensures good
electrical contact between the zinc in the paint and the base metal. Any trace
of rust or other insulating debris on the surface will defeat the project.
In a humid atmosphere the interval between cleaning and galvanizing should
probably be measured in hours.

The "cover all" rust cure paints work to some extent, with much less
careful preparation, usually no more than just removing loose rust
with a wire brush. Typically they're a water-based emulsion paint
with something like phosphoric acid added. The acid converts the
rust to something which does not take part in the rust chemical
cycle and ties up any free water. The paint seals out any new water.

My experience was in the late 1970's, I doubt the chemistry has changed
much, surely the brand names have. The cold galvanizing compound was
from ZRC, I think this might be their website:
http://www.zincrich.com/p_zrc.asp

Sorry, but I can't remember the name of the "cover all" antirust paint.
[sound of creaky brain cells rubbing together]

bob prohaska

Leo Lichtman said:

"Werehatrack" wrote: (clip)there's a possibility that if it's old stuff,
the army-green paint you have might be lacquer. If it is, and if the cold
galvanizing compound uses a vehicle that's more like enamel, the whole thing
could end up looking like wrinkle-finish paint. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear "Rack--I think you may have your facts reversed. It is lacquer that
will wrinkle existing enamel. Putting enamel over lacquer should be no
problem.

I stand corrected. It's been so long since I encountered it that I
had forgotten which order caused the problem, but you're correct.

Quoted message said:

If the surface is rusty AND pitted, then sanding will likely not get all the
rust. I suggest using a primer like Rustoleum, which is formulated to
penetrate rust and arrest it. There is extra oil in this type of primer
which is supposed to penetrate the rust, surround it, and then dry, leaving
a stable surface for finishing. There are also spray finishes which are
formulated to go directly over rust. They work for me, but I have no
long-term results to prove they are REALLY good.

My own experience with the older Rustoleum products was less than
stunning, but the later formulations have been better. For real
durability, however, nothing can compare with the results obtained by
painting a surface that has no corrosion at all.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Adam Rush" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm looking to repaint the front fork on my army bike, as it has
worrying rust. I've gotten a hold of the original one-size-fits-all
green army paint, but I thought that maybe I'd want to do a little
extra. At a local hardware store, I found a can of "cold galvanizing
zinc spray" ("zinkspray, kallgalvanisering," in any case) for use as an
undercoat or primer on things like boat trailers.

Would this hurt, help, or do nothing?

Somewhere between help a little, and nothing. Zinc corrodes faster than iron,
the oxides don't hydrate as much. Zinc oxides are easily removed compared to
iron oxides, thus galvinizing is very much favored for iron/steel surfaces that
won't get a decent paint job.

But if you're going to paint it afterwards, I'd skip the galvinizing in favor of
more sanding and priming.

--
Dale Benjamin
[email hidden]

clean, rust-free surfaces clean, rust-free surfaces and in out of the
way places unlikely to be trod on by large animals or thrown monkey
wrenchs and concrete blocks-the stuff chips then rusts some time later
as the ions waft off to pluto
for the latter-the rusto system is good but car paint is best looking
linseed thinned, allowed to dry(several months in arizona) then coated
with rusto is farmall approved
but question is REALLY who looks? you forecast crowds coming by to ogle
your fork?

I forecast crowds of radicals coming by to oxidize my fork.

oh yeah-its the swedish contingen
no, cold galvanizing isn't it. CG is to coat clean surfaces or hopeless
surfaces using the linseed based CG
i experimented with linseed over a clean wire brushed rusted
surface-allowing linseed to dry without intervening water-then coating
with the rusto system and several times a metallic latex in between to
eliminate water penetration.
what this does is trap the rust without additional water or oxygen-the
rust hardens and basically goes no further.
but this is on a seeable surface and that's not the situation with da
forks
with da forks you need to eliminate interior rust to eliminate the
chances of your diving under the oncoming bus when the foprk collapses
like this is an OLD OLD OLD piece your getting your weight on: check
around for glenn curtiss in linbe four motocycles-priceless!
boil it your self in caustic or take it to the shop.
'car restoration rust removal' is google searchable and there are home
shop products for serious rust removal-treat the bike like a '49
maserati touring
an assumption you can make-the fork's condition is similar to the other
tubes so check those insides
then think about the chain stays
and consider-at some point- getting the complete frame boiled out by a
professional
this need not be the first step-
for now if pro boiling is out of reach, a thorough
thinner-acetone-CHO-cleanout in a dry warm environment followed by
thinned white rusto primer-2 coats-will save the frame for several
years. using the linseed as a base is a tossup recommended for
seriously pitted agricultural type FeO\
anyway-you need to take it apart, clean, regrease and place new
bearings into the mechanism, nhow not later so gfet a strong light and
inspect the tubes

went to lunch and remembered-
cold galvinizing with linseed on unbrushed rusty surfaces eventually
produces a lumpy surface with cracks, cracks leak moisture and oxygen
and that's square one if the area coated is unseen. this is old
information and current products may have solved the problem.
a solution would be a hi tech epoxy-flexable and adherent.