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Components for a road bike with upright bars

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 November 2007
Last activity
4 November 2007
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David B
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19
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  1. I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Dave

  2. David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Dave

    Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
    If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
    they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
    comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

    I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
    which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
    are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
    out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
    north road bars.

    Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
    places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
    neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

    You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

    You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
    some expensive mistakes.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
    http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

  3. David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Dave

    Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
    If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
    they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
    comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

    I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
    which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
    are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
    out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
    north road bars.

    Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
    places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
    neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

    You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

    You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
    some expensive mistakes.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
    http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

  4. "David B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

    Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
    bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to the
    limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and wrists go
    numb in short order.

    My question is

    Quoted message said:

    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components?

    Not many, mainly braking. Obviously you'll be using road wheels. On
    mountain bike hubs the rear axle will be too wide to fit in a road bike
    stays.

    Quoted message said:

    Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel?

    Yes. 8/9/10 speed hubs are cross compatible.

    Quoted message said:

    Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers?

    Yes. You're going to have to do some research here to match the lever cable
    pull with the road brakes.

    Quoted message said:

    Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components?

    Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

    Any advice appreciated.

    Quoted message said:


    Dave

  5. "David B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

    Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
    bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to the
    limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and wrists go
    numb in short order.

    My question is

    Quoted message said:

    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components?

    Not many, mainly braking. Obviously you'll be using road wheels. On
    mountain bike hubs the rear axle will be too wide to fit in a road bike
    stays.

    Quoted message said:

    Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel?

    Yes. 8/9/10 speed hubs are cross compatible.

    Quoted message said:

    Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers?

    Yes. You're going to have to do some research here to match the lever cable
    pull with the road brakes.

    Quoted message said:

    Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components?

    Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

    Any advice appreciated.

    Quoted message said:


    Dave

  6. David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Cassette and rear derailer: Use what you have (assuming Shimano or
    compatible) or buy "mountain" parts if you need wider gearing.

    Brakes and levers: Keep your existing brakes and get levers intended
    for cantilever brakes (not V brakes)

    Front derailer: Road front derailers don't index with mountain shifters.
    Either get a friction shifter for the front, or one of these derailers:
    <http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=964>

    That said, what problem are you trying to solve by going to flat bars?
    You mentioned touring. Most people advise against flat bars for long-
    distance use because they only provide one hand position, and that one
    position can be hard on the wrists.

  7. David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Cassette and rear derailer: Use what you have (assuming Shimano or
    compatible) or buy "mountain" parts if you need wider gearing.

    Brakes and levers: Keep your existing brakes and get levers intended
    for cantilever brakes (not V brakes)

    Front derailer: Road front derailers don't index with mountain shifters.
    Either get a friction shifter for the front, or one of these derailers:
    <http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=964>

    That said, what problem are you trying to solve by going to flat bars?
    You mentioned touring. Most people advise against flat bars for long-
    distance use because they only provide one hand position, and that one
    position can be hard on the wrists.

  8. Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    vey said:
    David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Quoted message said:

    Dave

    Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
    If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
    they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
    comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

    I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
    which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
    are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
    out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
    north road bars.

    Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
    places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
    neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

    You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

    You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
    some expensive mistakes.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.htmlhttp://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.htmlhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

  9. Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    vey said:
    David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    Quoted message said:

    Dave

    Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
    If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
    they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
    comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

    I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
    which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
    are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
    out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
    north road bars.

    Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
    places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
    neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

    You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

    You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
    some expensive mistakes.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.htmlhttp://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.htmlhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

  10. Dave Mayer said:
    Quoted message said:

    Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components?

    Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

    Clarification: REAR will work OK, but Shimano road and Mtn FDs have
    different cable pull ratios. If you keep everything mountain parts,
    you'll be OK, but that limits you to a 44T big chainring.

  11. Dave Mayer said:
    Quoted message said:

    Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components?

    Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

    Clarification: REAR will work OK, but Shimano road and Mtn FDs have
    different cable pull ratios. If you keep everything mountain parts,
    you'll be OK, but that limits you to a 44T big chainring.

  12. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    This question was asked and answered here within
    the last 2 weeks.

    --
    Michael Press

  13. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    David B said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
    regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
    bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
    wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
    possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
    preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
    mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

    This question was asked and answered here within
    the last 2 weeks.

    --
    Michael Press

  14. "Dave Mayer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:UFmXi.176562$th2.147357@pd7urf3no...

    Quoted message said:

    "David B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

    Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
    bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to
    the limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and
    wrists go numb in short order.


    That's too doctrinaire. I recently setup a touring bike for my wife based on
    a Thorn Raven frame with Rohloff hub and flat bars with contoured rips and
    barends fitted. She has about 30 years experience of riding
    10000-12000km/year with drop bars, and she reckons this bike is just as
    comfortable, and decidedly more comfortable when it come to prolonged
    braking on mountain passes. She's done several rides of 80-100km on this
    bike with no hand/arm problems at all.

    Nick

  15. "Dave Mayer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:UFmXi.176562$th2.147357@pd7urf3no...

    Quoted message said:

    "David B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
    used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
    preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

    Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
    bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to
    the limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and
    wrists go numb in short order.


    That's too doctrinaire. I recently setup a touring bike for my wife based on
    a Thorn Raven frame with Rohloff hub and flat bars with contoured rips and
    barends fitted. She has about 30 years experience of riding
    10000-12000km/year with drop bars, and she reckons this bike is just as
    comfortable, and decidedly more comfortable when it come to prolonged
    braking on mountain passes. She's done several rides of 80-100km on this
    bike with no hand/arm problems at all.

    Nick

  16. David B said:

    Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
    marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
    bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
    perhaps shorter reach as well.

    Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
    less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
    and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

  17. David B said:

    Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
    marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
    bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
    perhaps shorter reach as well.

    Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
    less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
    and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

  18. Steve Gravrock said:
    David B said:

    Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
    marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
    bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
    perhaps shorter reach as well.

    Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
    less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
    and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

    If a woman's mind is set, nothing you can do.
    Drop bar = racing = uncomfortable = 'I want flat bars'. Period ;-)

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

  19. Steve Gravrock said:
    David B said:

    Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
    has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
    and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
    interesting but it looks like
    an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

    If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
    marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
    bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
    perhaps shorter reach as well.

    Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
    less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
    and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

    If a woman's mind is set, nothing you can do.
    Drop bar = racing = uncomfortable = 'I want flat bars'. Period ;-)

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

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