Craig Superlinks

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Peder
Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

--
Peder (Please reply to group only, email invalid)

I used them with good results on Shimano HG chains for 7, 8, and even 9 speed.
I purchased the yellow packaged ones from Licktons

They are no longer make by Craigmetal craft. Here is a link to Licktons
Bike shop in Ill that carries them. In fact the owner of this shop invented
this link and sold off the rights to them. I've been using them for years
and love them.
lickbike.comproductpage.aspOpen ↗'

Quoted message said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

--
Peder (Please reply to group only, email invalid)

Peder said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

They're great -- so good that SRAM has licensed the design,
and they come with every SRAM chain.

Matt O.

The link that comes with the SRAM chains is different then the Superlink.
Both were designed by the same person and then the rights were sold.
Another good link that I've found is the Wipperman Connex link for Campy
10sp chains ans also the link for the IRD chains.
"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Peder said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

They're great -- so good that SRAM has licensed the
design, and they come

with

Quoted message said:

every SRAM chain.

Matt O.

Jeff & Jane said:

The link that comes with the SRAM chains is different then
the Superlink. Both were designed by the same person and
then the rights were sold. Another good link that I've
found is the Wipperman Connex link for Campy 10sp chains
ans also the link for the IRD chains.

I've used both the Craig and the later SRAM. While they may
differ in some hair-splitting technical way, they're
basically the same design, and function identically.

Matt O.

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 02:21:28 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Jeff & Jane said:

The link that comes with the SRAM chains is different
then the Superlink. Both were designed by the same person
and then the rights were sold. Another good link that
I've found is the Wipperman Connex link for Campy 10sp
chains ans also the link for the IRD chains.

I've used both the Craig and the later SRAM. While they may
differ in some hair-splitting technical way, they're
basically the same design, and function identically.

If you want to get technical (after all, this is
rec.bicycles.tech) they actually don't function identically.
On the SRAM link the pin sits in a recess and removal
requires the two halves of the link to be squeezed together
before they can be slid to the removal position. On the
Forster (used to be Craig) Super Link there is no recess and
squeezing together is not required.

It's the squeezing together that sometimes makes the SRAM
link hard to remove. When a layer of grit gets between the
link sideplate and the sideplates of the inner links being
joined it's sometimes very difficult to squeeze the links
together enough to pop the pins out of their recesses.
Here's where a little WD-40 actually comes in handy.

To get back to the OP's question, I've been using Super
Links (correct spelling) since they were actually made by
Craig Metalcraft. They've been manufactured by Forster Tool
& Manufacturing of Bensenville, Illinois for a few years
now. I've found them to be absolutely reliable. I've
compared the Forster product side-by-side with an old Craig
link using a magnifying glass, and can perceive no
difference.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
home.earthlink.net~jeverett3Open ↗

John Everett said:

On the SRAM link the pin sits in a recess and removal
requires the two halves of the link to be squeezed
together before they can be slid to the removal position.
On the Forster (used to be Craig) Super Link there is no
recess and squeezing together is not required.

It's the squeezing together that sometimes makes the SRAM
link hard to remove. When a layer of grit gets between the
link sideplate and the sideplates of the inner links being
joined it's sometimes very difficult to squeeze the links
together enough to pop the pins out of their recesses.
Here's where a little WD-40 actually comes in handy.

Or pliers. I've never been able to get either brand apart by
hand, dirty or clean, recess or no recess.

Matt O.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Jeff & Jane said:

The link that comes with the SRAM chains is different
then the Superlink. Both were designed by the same
person and then the rights were sold. Another good link
that I've found is the Wipperman Connex link for Campy
10sp chains ans also the link for the IRD chains.

I've used both the Craig and the later SRAM. While they
may differ in some hair-splitting technical way, they're
basically the same design, and function identically.

Not even close. The Craig is far superior. Design
differences are small, but very significant. Even small
amounts of debris can make it difficult to extremely
difficult to open the SRAM link; look through the archives
of this group for the past couple of years and see how often
the advice to clean with WD-40 and/or use two pair of pliers
are given to those needing to open these links. I find that
I often have to use one or both of these to open the SRAM
links. I have never, not one single time, ever had to use
either technique with the Craig link
- it opens rather easily, by hand, regardless of how much
crud is wedged in the works. The Wippermann Connex link is
even easier to open. On my 4 bikes I have 1 SRAM, 1
Craigs, and 2 Connex links at the moment. I will be
phasing out the SRAM, as soon as I can build a stock of
the others; no reason to abuse one's self trying to open a
chain when it can be so much easier.

- rick

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 04:26:14 GMT, "Jeff & Jane" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I've found is the Wipperman Connex link for Campy 10sp
chains ans also the link for the IRD chains.

The IRD link, which I use, skips on an 11t cog.

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 12:08:44 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Or pliers. I've never been able to get either brand apart
by hand, dirty or clean, recess or no recess.

They come apart more easilly when using Shimano 9sp chain.

Peder may have said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

Before getting too carried away, note the item at the bottom
of the page:

Last update: 7/28/97

The claims made are unsupportable in directly provable fact;
this is clearly not the only reusable quick-disconnect
toolless link on the market.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Peder may have said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

The page is obsolete.

Wippermann makes a competing design, and the Craig design
(as noted by others) is sold under other names now.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick? Thanks for
reading.
theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

I have used them and had good results. Many chains now come
with a similar device. It makes it easy to remove your chain
to clean it.
----------------
Alex

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 12:08:44 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

John Everett said:

On the SRAM link the pin sits in a recess and removal
requires the two halves of the link to be squeezed
together before they can be slid to the removal position.
On the Forster (used to be Craig) Super Link there is no
recess and squeezing together is not required.

It's the squeezing together that sometimes makes the
SRAM link hard to remove. When a layer of grit gets
between the link sideplate and the sideplates of the
inner links being joined it's sometimes very difficult
to squeeze the links together enough to pop the pins out
of their recesses. Here's where a little WD-40 actually
comes in handy.

Or pliers. I've never been able to get either brand apart
by hand, dirty or clean, recess or no recess.

You must be doing something really wrong. By contrast to
your experience I've NEVER had the slightest difficulty
removing a Super Link just using my fingers. I've had them
on most of my bikes for years and regularly remove the
chains to clean and re-wax.

I've also managed to remove SRAM PowerLinks by hand on a few
occasions, although I've also had to resort to some WD-40
and/or pliers a time or two.

I'm not sure if this would help, but many years ago I
fashioned a tool from coat hanger wire to take up the
tension in the chain before link removal. It's just a three
inch length of wire with hooks bent on each end. I use it to
span the section that contains the master link, allowing
that section to droop below the little wire tool. This makes
it quite easy to slide the sideplates into the removal
position, assuming (in the case of PowerLinks) that the
sideplates can be squeezed together.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
home.earthlink.net~jeverett3Open ↗

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm not sure if this would help, but many years ago I
fashioned a tool from coat hanger wire to take up the
tension in the chain before link removal. It's just a
three inch length of wire with hooks bent on each end. I
use it to span the section that contains the master link,
allowing that section to droop below the little wire tool.
This makes it quite easy to slide the sideplates into the
removal position, assuming (in the case of PowerLinks)
that the sideplates can be squeezed together.

I've never seen one, but I can't believe that Park or
someone doesn't sell a plated alloy version of this in a
blister pack with an instruction manual for something in the
region of $20.

They could give it an obscure part number and call it "chain
link removal assistant" or whatever.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen, Tool Skeptic

"Mark South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"John Everett" <[email hidden]>
wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm not sure if this would help, but many years ago I
fashioned a tool from coat hanger wire to take up the
tension in the chain before link removal. It's just a
three inch length of wire with hooks bent on each end. I
use it to span the section that contains the master
link, allowing that section to droop below the little
wire tool. This makes it quite easy to slide the
sideplates into the removal position, assuming (in the
case of PowerLinks) that the sideplates can be squeezed
together.

I've never seen one, but I can't believe that Park or
someone doesn't sell a plated alloy version of this in a
blister pack with an instruction manual for something in
the region of $20.

They could give it an obscure part number and call it
"chain link removal assistant" or whatever.

In fact, the Topeak Hummer multi-tool includes one.

Peter Storey

Peter Storey said:

"Mark South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"John Everett" <[email hidden]>
wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm not sure if this would help, but many years ago I
fashioned a tool from coat hanger wire to take up the
tension in the chain before link removal. It's just a
three inch length of wire with hooks bent on each end. I
use it to span the section that contains the master
link, allowing that section to droop below the little
wire tool. This makes it quite easy to slide the
sideplates into the removal position, assuming (in the
case of PowerLinks) that the sideplates can be squeezed
together.

I've never seen one, but I can't believe that Park or
someone doesn't sell a plated alloy version of this in a
blister pack with an instruction manual for something in
the region of $20.

They could give it an obscure part number and call it
"chain link removal assistant" or whatever.

In fact, the Topeak Hummer multi-tool includes one.

Peter Storey

I use an old spoke. The elbow helps keep the end in the link
while you hook the other end of the chain. Could fit in a
seatback or Camelbak if you felt so inclined.

Tom

I've been using them for decades (they are now made by SRAM,
BTW) and they haven't failed me yet. MUCH easier than
"breaking" the chain, ant doesn't weaken the links either.

- -

"May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear
for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner geocities.comczcornerOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Are these Craig Superlinks any good, or just a gimmick?
Thanks for reading.

theramp.netslmain.htmlOpen ↗

Yeah, they're good. Highly recommended so you can take off
your chain and clean it properly.

Over the years, I had one Superlink break on me. It was the
old style with the welded pins. They ripped out of the side
plate. The newer style have pins with the head like a nail
head. I have had these pins come loose in the side plates.
Not a danger for coming apart on the road, but when you
disassemble the chain, the pins fall out. I wish they would
make the Superlinks with the nail head pins welded in place.

--
Mike DeMicco <[email hidden]