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Crank length?

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
20 July 2004
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25 July 2004
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Don
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  1. Hi guys,

    I used to ride a uni for a few years when I was teenager. I'm looking to buy
    a uni for my mid-life
    crisis. I have noticed on some models, you can order crank lengths.

    Could someone please explain to me how I might want to choose on length. I'm
    6' 1'' and weigh
    185lbs.

    Thinking about a cruiser type uni in a 26'' wheel size. Any recommendations
    would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. short cranks-faster
    longer cranks-more control, more torque (better for climbing)
    127s are really fast, 170's are really easy to control, and 150's seem
    to be a good compromise. i ride 170's on my 24x3 MUni.

    --
    TheBadger587 - Level 4

    MUni every day.
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  3. for you i would recommend 150s.

    -grant

    --
    tennisgh22 - Haha you fool

    The word gullible is written above my avatar!
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  4. Don said:

    Thinking about a cruiser type uni in a 26'' wheel size. Any recommendations
    would be appreciated.

    My 26" cruiser came with 150mm cranks, but I switched to 125s and
    couldn't be happier. Shorter cranks make for much smoother pedalling
    and take a lot of the choppiness out of cruising around. I can still
    ride up hills and they even work fine for cross country riding. My
    advice is to order 125s.

    Your other options, as I see them, are 110s and 150s. An experienced
    rider can get along well with 110s (or even shorter), but unless you
    were good as a teenager you'll be cursing every crack in the sidewalk
    and bump in the road for throwing you off balance (and off the
    unicycle) with shorties.

    150s are probably a little easier for learning on because they give
    you greater leverage. Balance this against a choppy ride. Don't even
    consider anything longer until you decide to buy an off offroad
    unicycle.

    In the big scheme of things, cranks are cheap. If you think you might
    want a different length, you can buy new ones (and a crank puller,
    torque wrench, loctite, and anti-sieze for changing them) and see
    which you like best.

    Ken

  5. Don said:

    *I'm looking to buy a uni for my mid-life crisis.*


    That's a cheap mid-life crisis! If you're married I'm sure your wife is
    very happy about it.

    Reminds me of a day in 1989 when my dad called me up and told me he'd
    just bought a Miyata. My dad, a Miyata? I couldn't picture it. Just not
    his idea of fun. Not that I don't think he could learn to ride if he
    wanted, just not interested. But I was wrong. It was a "Miata," from
    Mazda. MX5 in most of the world. He got one the year they debuted.
    *That's* a mid-life crisis purchase...

    Crank length is dependent mostly on the riding you plan to do. The more
    hills, the more length you will need. I have ridden my 29" wheel to work
    (8 miles) with 102mm cranks, but those aren't much good for anything
    other than straight cruising. 125 - 150 would be good for starters, then
    you can try a different size once you've been riding them for a while.

    Enjoy your "old boy's" toy!

    --
    johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

    John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com"
    www.unicycling.com

    "Beer me." -- Scot Cooper, at the end of a group ride all the way up and
    all the way down Mt. Diablo (3300'😉, a 20 mile round trip of road and
    trail.
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  6. I'm tempted to say, "150 mm, and don't ask why,"but that would be
    unfair.

    Seriously, though, 150 (or 152, there's no real difference) will be
    about ideal.

    170s or 175s will be a bit slow and ungainly.

    140s will be pretty much the same as 150s.

    125s will be just a bit tricky.

    110s or shorter are too specialised.

    So, 150s it is.

    They will give you sufficient control for easy freemounting and idling,
    sufficient torque for reasonable hill climbing and forays off road, and
    a small enough pedalling circle for reasonably smooth riding on the
    flat.

    Right now, your question is a bit like, "I am about to buy my first
    fishing pole; should it be 10 metres or 11 metres?" The important thing
    is to get something you can use and enjoy. Later, you will either:
    a) Lose interest, in which case you need something easy to sell, or
    b) preferably, get really into the sport, and develop your own tastes
    and preferences, based on experience and opportunity. (No good buying a
    top spec MUni if the only place you can ride is your local park; no good
    buying a top spec freestyler if it turns out that you keep being tempted
    to ride tricky bits of off road.

    Good luck.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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  7. Are you sure you want a 26"? I think 26" is an awkward in between size,
    not as much fun as a 24" and not as fast as a 29". My first adulthood
    uni was a 26, and I eventually rebuilt the wheel to make it a 29.

    A fat tire 24" with 150mm cranks is a very good all around choice. If
    you later want more speed, you can get a 29er or a Coker, and it will
    still be a cheap midlife crisis.

    --
    cjd - Pashley apologist
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  8. That's a fair point but...

    With the exception of the Coker, and the 20 (or 16, or 12) every size is
    an "in between size".

    But the general point stands: a 24 is more manouevreable than a 26. A
    29 is faster and has better rollover than a 26. Is the 26 the optimal
    size, or is it neither fish nor fowl?

    It perhaps depends on the weight and skill of the rider, and the nature
    of the terrain.

    If bank notes are votes, though, the 24 seems to have more votes than
    the 26. It is becoming the standard choice. It's certainly what I'd
    buy for a general purpose/MUni, knowing what I know now.

    In the UK, the most votes wins. I understand they have different
    systems in other countries.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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  9. Quoted message said:

    My dad, a Miyata? I couldn't picture it. Just not his idea of fun. Not
    that I don't think he could learn to ride if he wanted, just not
    interested. But I was wrong. It was a "Miata," from Mazda.

    AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH HA HA!

    --
    MuniTune - Bluto

    "those are both awesome and together you make an unstoppable team of
    frameless evil"
    -Tim, regarding Sofa on his amazing UW36 and Joel on the BC.

    R.
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  10. thanks for all the replys, they have been helpful. I've decided to go with a
    24'' uni with 150 cranks.
    Now if I could decide on which uni to buy. I'm thinking one of the Miyata's
    or a Semcycle.

  11. You might want to read the other threads about crank length.
    I run 170mm on mine. I "bought" the idea that shorter cranks would be
    better so I ordered some.
    I found no benefit to having the shorter cranks. I was a tad bit faster
    (at the 1/2 mile) and they seemed like they required less work once they
    spun up.

    While they did feel "smooth", I lost the ability to idle and change
    direction (backward to forward). I lost the ability to sprint as
    quickly. I lost some ability to climb slowly. Overall, I decided that
    longer cranks were more appropriate for off-road, freestyle, urban, and
    even cruising around.

    Find out what the experts have on their municycles.
    Try different sizes yourself and see what fits you best.

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

    Wishing you Happiness, Joy and Laughter,
    Drew Brown
    http://www.ChangingLINKS.com
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  12. Don said:

    *I've decided to go with a 24'' uni with 150 cranks.
    *

    That is what came with my 24" Torker, at about $100 and still working
    great, it was a good deal. But that one probably isn't for doing much
    more than riding on relatively smooth surfaces and singletrack.
    What unicycle you get might depend on what you were able to do as a
    teenager, and think you want to do now. Also, it could take quite a
    while and many more unicycles to properly resolve your mid life crisis.
    Here are my present tire/crank combinations:

    20"/127 (freestyle)
    24"/127 (track)
    36"/127 (Coker)
    24"Gazz/170(Muni)

    --
    iunicycle - Old back, new cricks
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  13. Don said:

    *Now if I could decide on which uni to buy. I'm thinking one of the
    Miyata's or a Semcycle. *

    What about this fine thing, a bargain starter muni:

    http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=584

    --
    tomblackwood - Registered Nurtz

    Tailgate at your own risk.....

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  14. PS: Get the 26" frame and the 3" Gazz tire...

    --
    tomblackwood - Registered Nurtz

    Tailgate at your own risk.....

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  15. How do you like the Coker? I have miles and miles of sidewalks nearby and
    think the Coker would
    be a fun cruising machine, but I wonder how hard it would be for me to get
    on that...considering
    the uni I rode as a teen was either 20'' or 24'' and I haven't rode a uni
    since. I could just get a 24'' and a Coker!! Hey it's a crisis.
    "iunicycle" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Don said:

    *I've decided to go with a 24'' uni with 150 cranks.
    *

    That is what came with my 24" Torker, at about $100 and still working
    great, it was a good deal. But that one probably isn't for doing much
    more than riding on relatively smooth surfaces and singletrack.
    What unicycle you get might depend on what you were able to do as a
    teenager, and think you want to do now. Also, it could take quite a
    while and many more unicycles to properly resolve your mid life crisis.
    Here are my present tire/crank combinations:

    20"/127 (freestyle)
    24"/127 (track)
    36"/127 (Coker)
    24"Gazz/170(Muni)

    --
    iunicycle - Old back, new cricks
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  16. Don said:

    *How do you like the Coker? I have miles and miles of sidewalks nearby
    and think the Coker would be a fun cruising machine, *

    Calling the Coker a fun cruising machine falls well short of reality.
    It's the full-on Road Beast; it's the unicycling equivalent of the
    Harley "Power Glide". Nothing compares.

    I can't imagine NOT owning a 36". I've put 200 miles on mine since May,
    which is peanuts compared to some of the serious distance riders. For
    example, Lars Clausen has ridden his Coker roughly 750 miles since July
    2nd.

    http://www.onewheel.org/booksubs/updates/0000.htm#611

    Given he did 9,000+ miles in 2002, that's a relative drop in the bucket.

    While there are some--well really only one--on this forum that would
    disagree, I think there is just no comparison when it comes to road
    work, either speed or distance. The Coker rules. It's a bit tough to
    learn, but invest the time (and miles), and you'll get there.

    And as long as I'm loading this post with links, gotta include what my
    wife would now refer to as "the other woman":

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/GB4-36-custom/IMG_0632

    --
    tomblackwood - Registered Nurtz

    Tailgate at your own risk.....

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  17. Don, I guess my question is still: what were you able to do as a
    teenager, did you ever ride any distance?

    With the cheapo 24" you could test a little of everything: basic skills,
    distance, offroad. The 20" will get you everything up to about 4 miles,
    after which that gets boring after a few weeks time. The black 'Stealth
    Torker' does good here.

    Since you can ride (I'm guessing) crank length isn't critical. 150s
    would help a little on learning from scratch on either the 20" or 24"
    wheel.

    I like the Coker very much, but wouldn't have it as my only uni.

    --
    iunicycle - Old back, new cricks
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  18. The uni I had as a kid was a 20 or 24. I really didnt do any tricks. I
    could ride it forwards and backwards and basically rode the [censored] out of hit.
    It was my transportation, to and from school, to friends house or the store
    and etc.

    I'm thinking the Coker would fit me...for what I want to do now. But I
    really dont think I could just get
    on it and go. I'll need to get a 24'' first and play with that for a while
    then move into the Coker.

    Don, I guess my question is still: what were you able to do as a
    teenager, did you ever ride any distance?
    "iunicycle" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Don, I guess my question is still: what were you able to do as a
    teenager, did you ever ride any distance?

    With the cheapo 24" you could test a little of everything: basic skills,
    distance, offroad. The 20" will get you everything up to about 4 miles,
    after which that gets boring after a few weeks time. The black 'Stealth
    Torker' does good here.

    Since you can ride (I'm guessing) crank length isn't critical. 150s
    would help a little on learning from scratch on either the 20" or 24"
    wheel.

    I like the Coker very much, but wouldn't have it as my only uni.

    --
    iunicycle - Old back, new cricks
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  19. the Yuni MUni is not a good choice. It might work for you, though. i did
    break 4 sets of cranks on it within 3 months of ownership. of course, i
    was pushing it pretty hard considering it's cotterless. it might be a
    good thing to get, and then upgrade it with a profile wheelset if you
    like MUniing, or get a coker if you like road riding more.

    --
    TheBadger587

    MUni every day.
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  20. iunicycle said:

    150s
    would help a little on learning from scratch on either the 20" or 24"
    wheel.

    150s on a 20" are a bit long, both for awkwardness in just riding and
    for touching the ground when leaning. 125's are better.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
    --
    I like the idea of not having to balance when out on a ride - joe

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