Crappy Commute

PiledHigher said:

Tools not to use also include hacksaws, this means you Shabby.

Well now that I've got a new angle grinder, why mess with the old skool labour intensive hacksaw to get those troublesome cranks off...........

hippy said:

You're a sick man shabby.. welcome to the club :P

hippy

I founded the club.....

flyingdutch said:

following that theory (that her-indoors found on the internet. stoopid internet...) of W-ann gifts follow a certain theme: first is 'paper', 2nd is wood(?), etc i think the 9th is 'Dropped cold-forged-steel' 😄 😄 😄

Hey, it's worth staying with her until the Titanium anniversary (10th?).

After that it's not worth waiting for Gold and Silver, which really don't have the strength to weight ratio you're looking for.

Shabby said:

flyingdutch Wrote:
Hey, it's worth staying with her until the Titanium anniversary
(10th?).

After that it's not worth waiting for Gold and Silver, which really
don't have the strength to weight ratio you're looking for.

They could be palmed off for a more suitable material though.
Cash Converters will give you 50c/kilo for gold these days I think..
very generous they are..

hippy 😉

Shabby said:

Hey, it's worth staying with her until the Titanium anniversary (10th?).

After that it's not worth waiting for Gold and Silver, which really don't have the strength to weight ratio you're looking for.

Traditional 11th wedding anniversary gift is steel. CrMo and Italian, I'm sure. Traditional 10th anniversay gift is tin/aluminium. That could be promising - frames, cranks, brakes, handlebars etc.

Modern gift for 9th wedding anniversary is leather - a top of the line bike saddle perhaps?

Anyway, it's your anniversary - you choose what to buy......so go out and buy it .......... for yourself 🙂

SteveA

"Shabby" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

DaveB said:

hippy said:

Oh the pain! Buy the proper tool!!
Multigrips are for working on cars (or [censored] bikes).

This comes back to the other thread. Us married with children types
have
to make do with what we have. Tool purchases require careful
consideration, selection, and budgetary approval. Of course the
benefits
of marriage (9th anniversary today 🙂 ) far outweigh a lack of cool
tools.

DaveB "is there anything multigrips can't do"

You can get a decent toolkit with every tool you're likely to need for
around $150 (from memory). Using incorrect tools just wrecks your
components, rendering them unremovable and unsaleable. Isn;t the 9th
wedding anniversary gift "Tools"?

At a minimum, I couldn't survive without:

Crank spanner
Cluster remover
Crank remover
Bottom bracket remover
Chainwhip
Alum keys
Spoke Key
Cone spanners (2 please!)

Add to that list these items:
Pedal Spanner
14mm and/or 15mm Ring spanners (Some bikes don't have QRs)
Tyre Levers
Lockring Tool
Crank Bolt Tool (The one that holds the back piece and stops it from turning
as you tighten the front bit)

I've also got multiples of:
Crank removers (1 for square tapers and 1 for Octalink)
BB Cup removers
Chainwhips (narrow chain and Track chain)
Cone Spanners (I need three different sizes)
Freewheel removers (Suntour Winner and Winner Pro, Shimano)
Cassette Lockring removers (Campag and Shimano)

Collected over a period of time these small tools are easily slipped into
the house without setting off any alarm bells with the other half.

Geoff

"DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

flyingdutch said:

DaveB said:

Gags wrote:

>that it is probably the bottom bracket and to top it all off, a mate

of mine

>currently has my BB remover tool and he is not answering his

phone!!!

Do you mean the crank extractor tool Gags? Drop me an email if you
want
to borrow mine.

DaveB

dont you need another tool to get the BB out AFTER you have got the
cranks off?

F"only gone down to the axle. honest"Dutch

I don't know, are you talking about the screw in bits/rings that hold it
in there? I've always got by with a pair of multigrips or a big plumbers
wrench for when things are really stuck.

DaveB

Dutch was right Dave.....I meant the splined tool that removes the bottom
bracket from the frame. If you are using multigrips then I am guessing that
you are talking about one of the older "non sealed" bottom brackets where
you can actually pull the bearings out (I can vaguely recall you talking
about doing this for your mountain bike some time ago??). I already have
the crank remover and my mate returned the BB remover tonight.

I actually did a bit more mucking around on the bike and found that I could
get the noise to happen by not pedalling and wobbling the handlebars from
side to side. I straight away thought it could be the headset so I took it
apart and the top bearing must have got pretty wet at some stage as it was
red with rust instead of red with the teflon grease that I use. I thought
that maybe the noise was due to the rust gripping the bearings so I cleaned
it all out and picked up a couple of bearings on the way home tonight on the
SS. I replaced them, regreased, reassembled, went for a ride......noise was
still there.

I got Lindsay to go for a bit of a ride so that I could try to determine
where the noise was coming from but there was no noise with her on it?? I
got back on and the noise came back. I went past really slow and Lindsay
thinks that the noise is coming from the BB area.

I am now hoping that it is just the BB although I am a bit concerned that it
may be a crack in the frame. I can vaguely remember hitting a pretty decent
pot hole yesterday not long before the noise started as I initially thought
I might have broken a spoke. I get the noise when coasting with some weight
on the pedals and wobbling the wheel from side to side, but I don't get it
when doing the same thing with my feet off the pedals???

I am going to pull the BB out tomorrow night and have a close look at the BB
and for any cracks around the BB shell..........more to follow.

Ride On,

Gags

"Geoff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Shabby" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

DaveB said:

hippy wrote:
>
> Oh the pain! Buy the proper tool!!
> Multigrips are for working on cars (or [censored] bikes).
>

This comes back to the other thread. Us married with children types
have
to make do with what we have. Tool purchases require careful
consideration, selection, and budgetary approval. Of course the
benefits
of marriage (9th anniversary today 🙂 ) far outweigh a lack of cool
tools.

DaveB "is there anything multigrips can't do"

You can get a decent toolkit with every tool you're likely to need for
around $150 (from memory). Using incorrect tools just wrecks your
components, rendering them unremovable and unsaleable. Isn;t the 9th
wedding anniversary gift "Tools"?

At a minimum, I couldn't survive without:

Crank spanner
Cluster remover
Crank remover
Bottom bracket remover
Chainwhip
Alum keys
Spoke Key
Cone spanners (2 please!)

Add to that list these items:
Pedal Spanner
14mm and/or 15mm Ring spanners (Some bikes don't have QRs)
Tyre Levers
Lockring Tool
Crank Bolt Tool (The one that holds the back piece and stops it from

turning

Quoted message said:

as you tighten the front bit)

I've also got multiples of:
Crank removers (1 for square tapers and 1 for Octalink)
BB Cup removers
Chainwhips (narrow chain and Track chain)
Cone Spanners (I need three different sizes)
Freewheel removers (Suntour Winner and Winner Pro, Shimano)
Cassette Lockring removers (Campag and Shimano)

Collected over a period of time these small tools are easily slipped into
the house without setting off any alarm bells with the other half.

Geoff

Don't forget to add the tools for tightening the Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket
bearings (crappy plastic one for pre-tension and steel one to tighten
bearings). I think Park do a tool that has both of these on it (one each
end) but as the ones I have came free with the BB and cranks, it will do me
for now.

Also....

chain breaker (although I now have a joiner link on each of my chains)

length of spoke bent into a /____\ shape to hold the two ends of a chain
in place while you join it back up

length of spoke bent into S shape to hang up chains once they have been
soaked in lube

copius amounts of rags cut into small pieces and readily available (another
good reason to have kids who grow out of things)

Syringe barrels (great for applying grease with little wastage and cheaper
than the fancy schmancy attachments that go on the end of the grease tube)

El-cheapo combined scourer pad/sponge for cleaning braking surfaces

Stereo

Ride On,

Gags

"Brett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

John Tserkezis said:

Gags said:

As I got onto Heidelberg road I noticed a bit of a funny noise
coming from the bike.......basically it is a "click, click, click" as
I am
pedalling. I stopped to see if I had picked up a bit of wire or
something
but it is all clear. The click is only pretty faint and doesn't sound
too
drastic but it was annoying the [censored] out of me. It is only there when
I am
pedalling and seems to be louder if I am pedalling harder. I was
thinking
that it could be one of the pedals giving out so I pedalled with only

one

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

foot at a time but there was no noise when I did this.

It's not a loose spoke is it? Sometimes hard to tell where it's coming
from while on the road...

I was thinking the same thing. I've never had a noise that I thought
was the bottom bracket that didn't turn out to be from a wheel or seat

post.

Quoted message said:

--
Brett

I have checked all the spokes and they seem to be fine.......will have
another look at bike tomorrow night (see other post)

Gags

Gags said:

I actually did a bit more mucking around on the bike and found that I could
get the noise to happen by not pedalling and wobbling the handlebars from
side to side. I straight away thought it could be the headset so I took it

Check the stem bolts. Undo, clean, very light grease on threads, re-attach.

hippy

Gags said:

I actually did a bit more mucking around on the bike and found that I could
get the noise to happen by not pedalling and wobbling the handlebars from
side to side. I straight away thought it could be the headset so I took it

Check the stem bolts. Undo, clean, very light grease on threads, re-attach.

hippy

hippy <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Oh the pain! Buy the proper tool!!
I think Gags is talking about the splined tool that fits into the bottom
bracket retaining 'rings'
It's one tool I don't have. The LBS does though 🙂

They're not that expensive, and nice to have. I just bought my 3rd - a
Real Shimano one, after my el cheapo one failed to be deep enough to
work on one of my BBs [1]. The 2nd one is the external spline type,
which is also for removing the spider from certain cranks, and is of
limited use. Nice to have when working on one of the bikes though. The
Shimano one was only about $30 from one of the more expensive shops
around [2], and BBs are the type of thing that work loose about 6PM
Friday before Easter.

Dave - who actually bought it about a month ago, after deciding that
the clunk as I pedalled home wasn't a good thing.

[1] The el cheapo works with either a spanner or a socket drive. That
means the back is closed, and on a wide BB the spindle bottoms out
before the splines engage. The Shimano one has an open back, and works
fine.
[2] Conveniently on the commute home though.

hippy <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Oh the pain! Buy the proper tool!!
I think Gags is talking about the splined tool that fits into the bottom
bracket retaining 'rings'
It's one tool I don't have. The LBS does though 🙂

They're not that expensive, and nice to have. I just bought my 3rd - a
Real Shimano one, after my el cheapo one failed to be deep enough to
work on one of my BBs [1]. The 2nd one is the external spline type,
which is also for removing the spider from certain cranks, and is of
limited use. Nice to have when working on one of the bikes though. The
Shimano one was only about $30 from one of the more expensive shops
around [2], and BBs are the type of thing that work loose about 6PM
Friday before Easter.

Dave - who actually bought it about a month ago, after deciding that
the clunk as I pedalled home wasn't a good thing.

[1] The el cheapo works with either a spanner or a socket drive. That
means the back is closed, and on a wide BB the spindle bottoms out
before the splines engage. The Shimano one has an open back, and works
fine.
[2] Conveniently on the commute home though.

Shabby <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

You can get a decent toolkit with every tool you're likely to need for
around $150 (from memory).

For values of "decent" approaching "OK for occassional use". I've
bought budget tools before, and have the scars to prove it. That said,
BBB stuff seems to be a good combination of quality and price (ie,
there's nicer stuff out there, but the BBB stuff seems to work well
enough).

Quoted message said:

Crank spanner

Can often get away with a 5 or 6mm allen key in the back, but still
useful. Mine's a cheapie.

Quoted message said:

Cluster remover

Worth having a good one. Cheap ones often don't engage properly.

Quoted message said:

Crank remover

Don't forget the spacer for Octalink!

Quoted message said:

Bottom bracket remover

See previous post.

Quoted message said:

Chainwhip

Erm. I shouldn't mention mine's made from an old chain and a broken
V-brake... Actually Chain whips are one tool that's easy to make, but
it's worth doing it well.

Quoted message said:

Alum keys

Allen. Get several sets. Pay for quality. Ball heads (on the long
shaft only) are worth having.

Quoted message said:

Spoke Key

Crank Bros do an OK "3 most common sizes" multi fit one, but I still
prefer to have spoke nipples that work with either the black or green
park one.

Quoted message said:

Cone spanners (2 please!)

At least. Enough to do every different bloody cone & locknut
combination in the fleet. Multi fit ones are useful, with a (17mm?)
for the generally standard locknut.

Also a set of proper cable cutters make cable replacement much nicer,
though side cutters can be made to work. A file for neatening the
outers is useful in both cases.

Quoted message said:

Tools you should avoid using:

Quoted message said:

Hammer

But a soft mallet is *extremely* useful. Think removing forks,
especially from dodgy headsets. Also useful for removing broken bits.

Quoted message said:

Multigrips (unless you want everything scratched to [censored]!)

Very useful for removing broken bits.

You didn't mention blow torches [1], Dremels [2][3][4], super glue
[5], gaff and zip ties [6]

Dave - who has used every one of the above tools, often more than
once.

[1] In situ soldering of cable ends [5]. And allegedly bike computer
cables, though I won't admit to that. Damn.
[2] Cut a groove in snapped off bolts so you can use a flat
screwdriver to get them out [7]
[3] Cut through rusted on components to get them off. Like steel
cranks that managed to rust to the BB spindle. Fine until the BB needs
replacing.
[4] Use in place of a file to neaten cable ends.
[5] Stop cable ends fraying.
[6] These last two have saved many a walk out.
[7] The barrel adjuster on rear derailleurs can snap in some crashes.
If you can remove it, you can often resurrect the d. with parts from
the other broken derailleurs.

Shabby <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

You can get a decent toolkit with every tool you're likely to need for
around $150 (from memory).

For values of "decent" approaching "OK for occassional use". I've
bought budget tools before, and have the scars to prove it. That said,
BBB stuff seems to be a good combination of quality and price (ie,
there's nicer stuff out there, but the BBB stuff seems to work well
enough).

Quoted message said:

Crank spanner

Can often get away with a 5 or 6mm allen key in the back, but still
useful. Mine's a cheapie.

Quoted message said:

Cluster remover

Worth having a good one. Cheap ones often don't engage properly.

Quoted message said:

Crank remover

Don't forget the spacer for Octalink!

Quoted message said:

Bottom bracket remover

See previous post.

Quoted message said:

Chainwhip

Erm. I shouldn't mention mine's made from an old chain and a broken
V-brake... Actually Chain whips are one tool that's easy to make, but
it's worth doing it well.

Quoted message said:

Alum keys

Allen. Get several sets. Pay for quality. Ball heads (on the long
shaft only) are worth having.

Quoted message said:

Spoke Key

Crank Bros do an OK "3 most common sizes" multi fit one, but I still
prefer to have spoke nipples that work with either the black or green
park one.

Quoted message said:

Cone spanners (2 please!)

At least. Enough to do every different bloody cone & locknut
combination in the fleet. Multi fit ones are useful, with a (17mm?)
for the generally standard locknut.

Also a set of proper cable cutters make cable replacement much nicer,
though side cutters can be made to work. A file for neatening the
outers is useful in both cases.

Quoted message said:

Tools you should avoid using:

Quoted message said:

Hammer

But a soft mallet is *extremely* useful. Think removing forks,
especially from dodgy headsets. Also useful for removing broken bits.

Quoted message said:

Multigrips (unless you want everything scratched to [censored]!)

Very useful for removing broken bits.

You didn't mention blow torches [1], Dremels [2][3][4], super glue
[5], gaff and zip ties [6]

Dave - who has used every one of the above tools, often more than
once.

[1] In situ soldering of cable ends [5]. And allegedly bike computer
cables, though I won't admit to that. Damn.
[2] Cut a groove in snapped off bolts so you can use a flat
screwdriver to get them out [7]
[3] Cut through rusted on components to get them off. Like steel
cranks that managed to rust to the BB spindle. Fine until the BB needs
replacing.
[4] Use in place of a file to neaten cable ends.
[5] Stop cable ends fraying.
[6] These last two have saved many a walk out.
[7] The barrel adjuster on rear derailleurs can snap in some crashes.
If you can remove it, you can often resurrect the d. with parts from
the other broken derailleurs.