Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some online pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process?
Not much, you get to avoid that dastardly third cross! Other than that, it's the same building process, cept you use the next nearest hole as you'll be exiting the flange at a less acute angle.
Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
Quoted message said:
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
Quoted message said:
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some on-line pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
With fewer crosses the outer cross, that is usually interleaved, is closer to the hub and causes a sharper bend at that point. Also, the more tangential the spokes are to the hole circle in the flange the less radial force is exerted on it by the spokes reducing the possibility of ripping off the flange rim. This is not a common problem for most riders but I have two Campagnolo low flange hubs that failed that way for a rider for whom I rebuilt the wheels.
Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
Quoted message said:
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
Quoted message said:
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some on-line pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
With fewer crosses the outer cross, that is usually interleaved, is closer to the hub and causes a sharper bend at that point. Also, the more tangential the spokes are to the hole circle in the flange the less radial force is exerted on it by the spokes reducing the possibility of ripping off the flange rim. This is not a common problem for most riders but I have two Campagnolo low flange hubs that failed that way for a rider for whom I rebuilt the wheels.
Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
Quoted message said:
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
Quoted message said:
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some on-line pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
With fewer crosses the outer cross, that is usually interleaved, is closer to the hub and causes a sharper bend at that point. Also, the more tangential the spokes are to the hole circle in the flange the less radial force is exerted on it by the spokes reducing the possibility of ripping off the flange rim. This is not a common problem for most riders but I have two Campagnolo low flange hubs that failed that way for a rider for whom I rebuilt the wheels.
Are you suggesting 3x may be better?
I figured 3x would introduce interference problems with the elbow head, so I opted for 2x. A long time ago I had some 28h wheels, and I vaguely recall such interference. That may have been with high-flange hubs.
The hubs (6600) are approved by Shimano for radial lacing, so I suppose they are quite strong.
I figured 3x would introduce interference problems with the elbow head, so I opted for 2x. A long time ago I had some 28h wheels, and I vaguely recall such interference. That may have been with high-flange hubs.
The hubs (6600) are approved by Shimano for radial lacing, so I suppose they are quite strong.
I plan on 95kgf.
I built a 28h 2x front wheel for my stupid-light racing sewups. 6500 Hub, Campy Victory Strada rim, which has a huge ERD. I went with 2x not only because of spoke head interference, but also because it was much easier to find 298mm spokes than 306mm.
I figured 3x would introduce interference problems with the elbow head, so I opted for 2x. A long time ago I had some 28h wheels, and I vaguely recall such interference. That may have been with high-flange hubs.
The hubs (6600) are approved by Shimano for radial lacing, so I suppose they are quite strong.
I plan on 95kgf.
I built a 28h 2x front wheel for my stupid-light racing sewups. 6500 Hub, Campy Victory Strada rim, which has a huge ERD. I went with 2x not only because of spoke head interference, but also because it was much easier to find 298mm spokes than 306mm.
I had some 28h Victory Crono's once. Ripped the eyelets right out of the rim after only 2-3 months! Strada is a much more sane choice. Do you have some pics?
Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some on-line pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
With fewer crosses the outer cross, that is usually interleaved, is closer to the hub and causes a sharper bend at that point. Also, the more tangential the spokes are to the hole circle in the flange the less radial force is exerted on it by the spokes reducing the possibility of ripping off the flange rim. This is not a common problem for most riders but I have two Campagnolo low flange hubs that failed that way for a rider for whom I rebuilt the wheels.
Quoted message said:
Are you suggesting 3x may be better?
Quoted message said:
I figured 3x would introduce interference problems with the elbow head, so I opted for 2x. A long time ago I had some 28h wheels, and I vaguely recall such interference. That may have been with high-flange hubs.
Quoted message said:
The hubs (6600) are approved by Shimano for radial lacing, so I suppose they are quite strong.
Quoted message said:
I plan on 95kgf.
I'm not familiar with your hub so I don't know if the flanges are too small to use 3x withouit spoke head interference. 2x is certainly good enough considering that many wheels seem to do with that.
Santa brought me all sorts of goodies, including some rims, hubs, and spokes.
One wheel is to be 28 spoke, cross 2. I have only ever done 32 and 36 cross 3. I have never seen (at least when I was paying attention) a cross 2 wheel. Doing cross 3, I start with my key spoke by the valve-hole, sight the hub label through the hole, and I know from experience which hub hole to use to get it to line up nicely. I also know how many spoke holes to skip over in the early stages so that it all comes out as planned. Expert I am not, obviously.
What differences (if any) does 2 cross 28 introduce to my process? Does anyone know of some online pics or diagrams of cross 2 28?
Joseph
None, just 'over-under', instead of over, over, under..when you cross 2, where it goes in the rim becomes pretty obvious, from spoke length.
