I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
With downhill MTB forks the crown is so wide you can't get under the race with a screwdriver (or machete). I just go to my LBS with fork in hand and the mechanic pops it off with their expensive VAR puller for free. (I did ask how much I owed him at first and he laughed at me.)
I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
it requires purchase, but may be justified on the basis of low price and potential resale to someone with a car...
the two holes top & bottom are for threaded studs to exert the "pull" and which you can buy in the hardware store. used correctly, this will remove even the most obfuscated crown from a wide shouldered carbon fork no problem, and no damage to fork surfaces.
I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
Thanks to all who replied, and apologies for the confusion over the type of races. -- David Damerell <[email hidden]> Kill the tomato! Today is Second Mania, January.
I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
Thanks to all who replied, and apologies for the confusion over the type of races.
No apology necessary. You stated it quite clearly, three times.
-- Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/ "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
it requires purchase, but may be justified on the basis of low price and potential resale to someone with a car...
the two holes top & bottom are for threaded studs to exert the "pull" and which you can buy in the hardware store. used correctly, this will remove even the most obfuscated crown from a wide shouldered carbon fork no problem, and no damage to fork surfaces.
After obtaining the two threaded rods, what sort of jig supports their pushing against or pulling from?
I guess that whistling sound I heard was your joke going over my head (which despite being a tall guy, happens a lot).
Around here, we use the expression "Was that another SR71?" -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
What they all said plus - the fork may have two indentations to fit the tool / screwdriver / punch as a starting point to work it off. Once it moves a bit it should come off easily by "rocking" it side to side with your tool of choice. It shouldn't take a lot of force. Go easy, use patience.
What he said except a 3/4" or 1" wood chisel (not a good one that you actually use for wood; a dull one) works great to get the race loose, then work up with a screwdriver.
As for a $5.00 do-it-yourself slide hammer to fit the new race on, get a 20" long 1 1/4" dia. shop vac extension. The 1 1/4" end will work with a 1 1/8" steerer; for a 1" steerer, cut a few inches off the 1" end so it will fit all the way down to the crown.
