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Australia and New Zealand
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19 February 2007
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24 February 2007
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Brendo
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  1. I remeasured last night. Last time I posted I said I had a 93cm
    inseam, it's actually 97cm, and I'm 195cm tall. I've been looking
    at various 'frame guides' and most of them recommend 63-65cm c-c
    frames. It seems I may need to go custom. (Or rather I just think
    I'd like to)

    Two part question.

    1)Anybody had a road frome built in or around Perth?

    2) Would sending measurements to a builder on the dark side of
    the continent, as opposed to actually being at the workshop, give
    just as good a result.

    I'm still looking at spending around $2k, inclusive of fork and
    getting all the bits transfered from the 60cm frame I have
    (mostly Ultegra/105 bits).

    Cheers

    Brendo

  2. "Brendo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I remeasured last night. Last time I posted I said I had a 93cm inseam,
    it's actually 97cm, and I'm 195cm tall. I've been looking at various 'frame
    guides' and most of them recommend 63-65cm c-c frames. It seems I may need
    to go custom. (Or rather I just think I'd like to)

    Two part question.

    1)Anybody had a road frome built in or around Perth?

    2) Would sending measurements to a builder on the dark side of the
    continent, as opposed to actually being at the workshop, give just as good
    a result.

    I'm still looking at spending around $2k, inclusive of fork and getting
    all the bits transfered from the 60cm frame I have (mostly Ultegra/105
    bits).

    Cheers

    Brendo

    Brendo,

    Might not be much good to you as I am in Melbourne but I am going to be
    selling my Cecil Walker roadie soon......it's an 853 Reynolds frame that I
    think is about 63cm or so (I am also 195cm). The frame is about 7 years old
    but I had it resprayed about 18 months ago and it looks really schmick. It
    currently has a 9spd Chorus groupset on it but it is pretty worn and
    although it works fine, it could do with replacing. Let me know if you
    might be interested and I will go out and measure all the relevant
    dimensions for you (I need to do this anyway to put it on ebay)....here is a
    picture of it - unlike the photo the bike is now clean:

    http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp1267tl4.jpg

    Let me know if you would like some more info.

    Gags

  3. You may need to up your budget a bit if you are looking at custom. I wouldn't hesitate to look at builders interstate though. I went to Warwick of Thylacine Cycles for my custom steel hardtail frame, and while it is nice to be able to chat face to face many of his customers are not just interstate but overseas. He's about you're height, so he'll understand the trouble you're having finding a stock frame too.

    My frame hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on it but I've been very happy with him through the building process. The feedback on MTBR is positive too: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=220368 .

  4. "Brendo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I remeasured last night. Last time I posted I said I had a 93cm inseam,
    it's actually 97cm, and I'm 195cm tall. I've been looking at various 'frame
    guides' and most of them recommend 63-65cm c-c frames. It seems I may need
    to go custom. (Or rather I just think I'd like to)

    Two part question.

    1)Anybody had a road frome built in or around Perth?

    2) Would sending measurements to a builder on the dark side of the
    continent, as opposed to actually being at the workshop, give just as good
    a result.

    I'm still looking at spending around $2k, inclusive of fork and getting
    all the bits transfered from the 60cm frame I have (mostly Ultegra/105
    bits).

    Rivendell (www.rivbike.com) have off the shelf frames in sizes up to 68cm.
    But they're decidedly not "racing" frames, if that's what you're after. And
    the shipping to Australia can be a bit expensive.

    Nick

  5. SomeGuy said:

    You may need to up your budget a bit if you are looking at custom. I wouldn't hesitate to look at builders interstate though. I went to Warwick of Thylacine Cycles for my custom steel hardtail frame, and while it is nice to be able to chat face to face many of his customers are not just interstate but overseas. He's about you're height, so he'll understand the trouble you're having finding a stock frame too.

    My frame hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on it but I've been very happy with him through the building process. The feedback on MTBR is positive too: forums.mtbr.comshowthread.php .

    customs start at around $900-$1000.... add a good carbon fork and you should be well under $1500 ..... not all bike shop made bikes are customs...., many are still stock dimensions, like the Cecil Walker mentioned , even though it was was most likely a Paconi built frame, ,... biggest variable in your cost will be your tubeset...and whether you see an advantage having super light ( exy) or moving up the scale to not so light...(not so exy)

    More importanly, if your fit was done by someone who actually is a bike fit specialist then you have a good head start to getting a custom and actually having it close to right for you...if it was done by some one who even looked crosseyed at a piece of string,.....start again...I'd even try and get a low cost flt , take a break and fly east or get the boss to fund you on a junket trip to the dark side and fly to Syd or Melb and see either Steve Hogg in Sydney at Pedal Pushers in Randwick or John Kennedy at Cyclefit in Black Rock Melbourne.... Hogg uses Baum and Teschner mainly so they will be on the exy side...but Kennedy uses Wigan at Paconi to build to his spec ( not Walkers specs- which are quite different)... or at least call them and discuss..both do no obligation over the phone and could direct you....you could even get your flt, the frame and fork for under 2K if you pick the right tubeset...

  6. rooman said:
    SomeGuy said:

    You may need to up your budget a bit if you are looking at custom. I
    wouldn't hesitate to look at builders interstate though. I went to
    Warwick of Thylacine Cycles for my custom steel hardtail frame, and
    while it is nice to be able to chat face to face many of his customers
    are not just interstate but overseas. He's about you're height, so
    he'll understand the trouble you're having finding a stock frame too.

    My frame hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on it but I've been very
    happy with him through the building process. The feedback on MTBR is
    positive too: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=220368 .customs start at around $900-$1000.... add a good carbon fork and you

    should be well under $1500 ..... not all bike shop made bikes are
    customs...., many are still stock dimensions, like the Cecil Walker
    mentioned , even though it was was most likely a Paconi built frame,
    ,... biggest variable in your cost will be your tubeset...and whether
    you see an advantage having super light ( exy) or moving up the scale
    to not so light...(not so exy)

    More importanly, if your fit was done by someone who actually is a bike
    fit specialist then you have a good head start to getting a custom and
    actually having it close to right for you...if it was done by some one
    who even looked crosseyed at a piece of string,.....start again...I'd
    even try and get a low cost flt , take a break and fly east or get the
    boss to fund you on a junket trip to the dark side and fly to Syd or
    Melb and see either Steve Hogg in Sydney at Pedal Pushers in Randwick
    or John Kennedy at Cyclefit in Black Rock Melbourne.... Hogg uses Baum
    and Teschner mainly so they will be on the exy side...but Kennedy uses
    Wigan at Paconi to build to his spec ( not Walkers specs- which are
    quite different)... or at least call them and discuss..both do no
    obligation over the phone and could direct you....you could even get
    your flt, the frame and fork for under 2K if you pick the right
    tubeset...


    And the tubesets seem to be the major difference. Given that I
    don't ride much over 100km a week, I doubt whether I could tell
    the difference between the different steel grades. (I think steel
    will be the metal of choice).

    A few I have seen have come in around the 2k mark for frame and
    fork, Armalite (www.armalitecycles.com.au in Perth, too)and
    another called Pave (www.pavebikes.com in Margaret River). I also
    looked at Thylacine Cycles, they look schmick, but are a bit
    above budget for even the base steel model ($2500 plus fork). I
    am sure that they are worth the money, but you can only get what
    you can afford.

    Brendo

  7. Brendo said:

    And the tubesets seem to be the major difference. Given that I
    don't ride much over 100km a week, I doubt whether I could tell
    the difference between the different steel grades. (I think steel
    will be the metal of choice).

    A few I have seen have come in around the 2k mark for frame and
    fork, Armalite (www.armalitecycles.com.au in Perth, too)and
    another called Pave (www.pavebikes.com in Margaret River). I also
    looked at Thylacine Cycles, they look schmick, but are a bit
    above budget for even the base steel model ($2500 plus fork). I
    am sure that they are worth the money, but you can only get what
    you can afford.

    Brendo

    why not call a few makers over east and offer to fax or email them your specs and discuss your needs and tubeset to fit the budget...some of the steel tubesets are great, some make good farm gates... certainly shop around....Alum is a fine tubeset as well and could be a lighter lower cost option...a Columbus Zonal ridden 200-300 plus klms a week should give you a good 10 years of joy without metal "memory" hassles and you should get change for frame and fork...I know Kennedy (and possibly Hogg too) ships a lot of frames overseas, so a parcel to the coast of sun, wine and surf, shouldnt be hard.

  8. In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    a Columbus Zonal ridden 200-300 plus klms a week
    should give you a good 10 years of joy without metal "memory" hassles

    'metal "memory" hassles'?

    --
    Shane Stanley

  9. Shane Stanley said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    a Columbus Zonal ridden 200-300 plus klms a week
    should give you a good 10 years of joy without metal "memory" hassles

    'metal "memory" hassles'?

    --
    Shane Stanley


    my very lay expression about Alum as I see it, but its not a "memory metal" in the chemical and metallurgist's sense, so consider it....."stress cycles to failure" if you wish.... Alum bike tubesets show fewer cycles to failure than steel bike tubesets of same dimension... AFAIAA.... my understanding is...equiv dimension steel lasts longer than alum...just likely to be heavier

    the suggestion, which I believe is the common view (correct me if you think it's not) of riders, frame makers etc.... is that alum tubeset may be cheaper (some) and it may be lighter (most) , and is less rigid, and it doesn't last as long given the same stresses over time, as the steel tubeset..

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    my very lay expression about Alum as I see it, but its not a "memory
    metal" in the chemical and metallurgist's sense, so consider
    it....."stress cycles to failure" if you wish.... Alum bike tubesets
    show fewer cycles to failure than steel bike tubesets of same
    dimension

    Who builds them to the same dimensions?

    Quoted message said:

    the suggestion, which I believe is the common view (correct me if you
    think it's not) of riders, frame makers etc.... is that alum tubeset
    may be cheaper (some) and it may be lighter (most) , and is less rigid,
    and it doesn't last as long given the same stresses over time, as the
    steel tubeset..

    It might be a common view, but the reality is that a frame's lifespan
    owes more to its design than the material used. Of course, the design
    often reflects the choice of material -- that's why aluminium frames are
    designed to avoid fatigue failures (something that's not hard to do).

    There's a lot to be said for steel frames, especially the aesthetics
    they allow the frame designer. It seems a shame that those who like them
    often resort to pseudo-scientific attacks on the alternatives, though.
    There are still people around who believe aluminium frames "go soft".

    --
    Shane Stanley

  11. "rooman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Shane Stanley said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    a Columbus Zonal ridden 200-300 plus klms a week
    should give you a good 10 years of joy without metal "memory" hassles

    'metal "memory" hassles'?

    --
    Shane Stanley


    my very lay expression about Alum as I see it, but its not a "memory
    metal" in the chemical and metallurgist's sense, so consider
    it....."stress cycles to failure" if you wish.... Alum bike tubesets
    show fewer cycles to failure than steel bike tubesets of same
    dimension... AFAIAA.... my understanding is...equiv dimension steel
    lasts longer than alum...just likely to be heavier

    the suggestion, which I believe is the common view (correct me if you
    think it's not) of riders, frame makers etc.... is that alum tubeset
    may be cheaper (some) and it may be lighter (most) , and is less rigid,
    and it doesn't last as long given the same stresses over time, as the
    steel tubeset..

    Who on earth would use the same size aluminium and steel tubes?

  12. [QUOTE]

    Shane Stanley said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    my very lay expression about Alum as I see it, but its not a "memory
    metal" in the chemical and metallurgist's sense, so consider
    it....."stress cycles to failure" if you wish.... Alum bike tubesets
    show fewer cycles to failure than steel bike tubesets of same
    dimension

    Who builds them to the same dimensions?

    not suggesting that... just comparing apples... alloy tubesets appear bigger dimensioned than steel , but if they were the same the alloy (fill in space)...

    Quoted post said:


    Quoted message said:

    the suggestion, which I believe is the common view (correct me if you
    think it's not) of riders, frame makers etc.... is that alum tubeset
    may be cheaper (some) and it may be lighter (most) , and is less rigid,
    and it doesn't last as long given the same stresses over time, as the
    steel tubeset..

    It might be a common view, but the reality is that a frame's lifespan
    owes more to its design than the material used. Of course, the design
    often reflects the choice of material -- that's why aluminium frames are
    designed to avoid fatigue failures (something that's not hard to do).

    There's a lot to be said for steel frames, especially the aesthetics
    they allow the frame designer. It seems a shame that those who like them
    often resort to pseudo-scientific attacks on the alternatives, though.
    There are still people around who believe aluminium frames "go soft".

    --
    Shane Stanley

    fair enough..(thought that was what I suggested..guess not).... I am not disagreeing, but I dont accept that alloy will not fail merely because its beefier( if that's what you mean by design, or are you suggesting extra cross members in the chainstay and thicker tubeset, and bottom bracket area ?..........(what are you suggesting?)

    I have a "design" life on my alloy R1 bike of approx 10 years...as a result of section lengths, tubeset and layout combinations that should reflect the of the bike mainly as a performance bike in that time....that's what I was told to expect and if I get more great... I have another alloy bike, a beefy ( make that very beefy C2- that will probably outlive mankind, but it does weigh a hefty amount, but I also have four steel bikes... R2-aged 2 year2, C1-3years, T1-4 years, and Classic1-55 years respectively, all going strong and I expect they will all outlive the alloy framed R1 by decades.

    My preference is for steel first, ( I just like the ride)...but I do have a Ti frame on order so I put Ti second, then Al and one day maybe ( big maybe) a carbon frame, but not in a hurry to go carbon...may change my mind...have to have a lot of wine first....meantime happy to watch other's carbons get thrown away after they get a bust up...

  13. In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    I am
    not disagreeing, but I dont accept that alloy will not fail merely
    because its beefier( if that's what you mean by design, or are you
    suggesting extra cross members in the chainstay and thicker tubeset,
    and bottom bracket area ?..........(what are you suggesting?)

    Design, as in an engineer calculating what's needed to avoid stress
    failures. In some places that amounts to making things "beefier", but
    not always.

    Quoted message said:


    I have a "design" life on my alloy R1 bike of approx 10 years...as a
    result of section lengths, tubeset and layout combinations that should
    reflect the of the bike mainly as a performance bike in that
    time....that's what I was told to expect and if I get more great...

    It's certainly possible to design a frame that won't last, although
    stating it in terms of years is unfortunate (but understandable) --
    hours of use would make more sense.

    (Given that you're spreading your time between six, and it appears soon
    to be seven, bikes, and that hours in a day are limited, even a
    compromised design might last you a lot longer than you think.)

    Quoted message said:

    but I
    also have four steel bikes... R2-aged 2 year2, C1-3years, T1-4 years,
    and Classic1-55 years respectively, all going strong and I expect they
    will all outlive the alloy framed R1 by decades.

    Yes, but you're comparing them to a frame you've just told us is
    compromised in terms of lifespan.

    Quoted message said:

    My preference is for steel first, ( I just like the ride)...

    Fine -- enjoy it, and don't go hunting for other justifications.

    --
    Shane Stanley

  14. On 2007-02-21, Shane Stanley (aka Bruce)
    was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    rooman said:

    my very lay expression about Alum as I see it, but its not a "memory
    metal" in the chemical and metallurgist's sense, so consider
    it....."stress cycles to failure" if you wish.... Alum bike tubesets
    show fewer cycles to failure than steel bike tubesets of same
    dimension

    Who builds them to the same dimensions?

    Quoted message said:

    the suggestion, which I believe is the common view (correct me if you
    think it's not) of riders, frame makers etc.... is that alum tubeset
    may be cheaper (some) and it may be lighter (most) , and is less rigid,
    and it doesn't last as long given the same stresses over time, as the
    steel tubeset..

    It might be a common view, but the reality is that a frame's lifespan
    owes more to its design than the material used. Of course, the design
    often reflects the choice of material -- that's why aluminium frames are
    designed to avoid fatigue failures (something that's not hard to do).

    There's a lot to be said for steel frames, especially the aesthetics
    they allow the frame designer. It seems a shame that those who like them
    often resort to pseudo-scientific attacks on the alternatives, though.
    There are still people around who believe aluminium frames "go soft".

    I see a connection between this and aluminium cookware. Aluminium
    doesn't cause Alzheimers; it was a claim invented by a steel cookware
    maker who saw his sales drop off because of cheaper and better
    aluminium. So he came up with a "research" paper that showed
    aluminium causes Alzheimers. Within months, there were 5 peer
    reviewed papers refuting the claim, but the damage had been done --
    people still think, 20 years on, that aluminium cookware causes
    alzheimers.

    --
    TimC
    Error in operator: add beer

  15. Shane Stanley said:

    us is
    compromised .....

    (snip)

    justifications.

    --
    Shane Stanley


    compromise?...you might think that!......I am not the least bit comprised with the alum frame , it is exactly what I wanted, and represents very good value for money over time....

    justifications... dribble.... all in your head !

  16. TimC said:

    I see a connection between this and aluminium cookware. Aluminium
    doesn't cause Alzheimers; it was a claim invented by a steel cookware
    maker who saw his sales drop off because of cheaper and better
    aluminium. So he came up with a "research" paper that showed
    aluminium causes Alzheimers. Within months, there were 5 peer
    reviewed papers refuting the claim, but the damage had been done --
    people still think, 20 years on, that aluminium cookware causes
    alzheimers.

    Does anybody know what causes Alzheimers? Somebody told me once but my mum
    used aluminium pots and I don't remember.
    If you're going to absorb aluminium, you are more likely to do it from your
    deoderant.

    Theo

  17. Theo Bekkers said:

    If you're going to absorb aluminium, you are more likely to do it from your
    deoderant.

    Very true. Aluminium, by itself, doesn't cross the blood brain barrier.
    For this reason, some argue that aluminium couldn't possibly cause
    Alzheimer's disease, since it can't get to the brain in the first place.

    However, one of the toxic effects of fluoride is to make that barrier
    permeable to aluminium. Fluoride allows the uptake of aluminium into
    your brain.

    That aluminium is harmful to the brain is well accepted, at least in
    animal studies (a collection of references:
    http://www.fluoridealert.org/health/brain/).

    Supposedly one group of researchers tested the aluminium/fluoride link
    by administering it to rats intravenously, killing all their "low dose"
    group before they ever got to the "high dose" group. They were expecting
    small, measurable differences between the groups.

    Cycling is fun.

    Russ, always on topic.

  18. Russ said:
    Theo Bekkers said:

    If you're going to absorb aluminium, you are more likely to do it from
    your deoderant.

    Very true. Aluminium, by itself, doesn't cross the blood brain barrier.
    For this reason, some argue that aluminium couldn't possibly cause
    Alzheimer's disease, since it can't get to the brain in the first place.

    However, one of the toxic effects of fluoride is to make that barrier
    permeable to aluminium. Fluoride allows the uptake of aluminium into
    your brain.

    That aluminium is harmful to the brain is well accepted, at least in
    animal studies (a collection of references:
    http://www.fluoridealert.org/health/brain/).

    Supposedly one group of researchers tested the aluminium/fluoride link
    by administering it to rats intravenously, killing all their "low dose"
    group before they ever got to the "high dose" group. They were expecting
    small, measurable differences between the groups.

    Cycling is fun.

    Russ, always on topic.

    Isn't the dangers of Fluoride something thought up by the bottled water
    manufacturers?

    And isn't the dangers of aging plastic bottles something thought up by ...

    And so on....

    Use a wooden spoon in your aluminum pots and it's not a problem.

    Friday

  19. Friday said:

    Isn't the dangers of Fluoride something thought up by the bottled water
    manufacturers?

    If only... That it was an enzymatic poison was known decades before its
    use on humans.

    One might say that the /benefits/ of fluoride was thought up by the
    aluminium manufacturers, given that the *chemical waste given off by the
    process to make aluminium... is creatively used in tap water :p

    It would be nice if it were just FUD; it'd be much more simpler to
    believe that.

    Quoted message said:

    And isn't the dangers of aging plastic bottles something thought up by ...

    And so on....

    Use a wooden spoon in your aluminum pots and it's not a problem.

    Or just use stainless-steel coated aluminium. The steel industry say the
    chromium isn't bad for you 🙂 And it probably isn't, based on the best
    available evidence.

    Russ.

    *(also "...in the form of either fluorosilicic acid (H2SiF6) or sodium
    silicofluoride (Na2SiF6), both of which are obtained from the untreated
    waste liquor from cleaning the scrubbers in phosphate fertiliser
    manufacturing plants. This source of fluoride contains traces of
    arsenic, cadmium and other toxic chemicals..." - Dr Mark Diesendorf -
    http://www.onlineopinion.com.au/view.asp?article=3014)

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