Cutting cable housing



Z

Zilla

Guest
What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing inside?
I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool. (IOW, I
know it's me.)

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)
 
Zilla wrote:
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>

Have you tried inserting an old spoke or an old cable?

Francesco
 
Zilla wrote:
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

While some people file the edges down smooth, I just use an
old hunk of cable to open/round the hole. Hear it's a bit
harder with brake housing than derailleur, but haven't had
to do it yet (in over 8 years?!?).

Bill "stiff stoppers" S.
 
<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is with
a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.
 
Zilla <[email protected]> wrote:
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to see
if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

--
Tom
 
Zilla wrote:
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>
>
Believe or not, a Tube Cutter is the secret. Using a tube
cutter will leave a perfect cut and will also keep the metal
web from spreading/springing out on you, making it
impossible to insert into the attachment sleeve.

The trick is to go real slow (pressure wise) with the
cutter... too much pressure or you'll squish it. You'll be
able to feel it, and you well hear it as it cuts thru the
metal webbing. As soon as it goes thru the last piece of
metal, stop and finish off the inner plastic line with a
sharp razor.

--
Slacker
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 16:58:35 -0400, "tcmedara"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
>small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
>seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to see
>if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

Different brands of derailleur housing will crush easier. I
bought some Alligator housing
<http://www.alligatorcables.com/products.htm> that I cut
with Felco C7 cutters and crushing is minimum. I had some
generic housing where more time was spent opening up the
housing than measuring and cutting.
 
Another vote for Dremel tool. But I haven't had to cut a housing since going to Nokon for all my cables.
 
tcmedara wrote:
> Zilla <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>>tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>
>
> I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
> small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
> seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to
> see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.
>
yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then
bend it around very slightly until you see where the coil of
the cable coincides with the slit. at this point, you can
hold it slightly open, then use wire cutters to cut the
coil. it does not crimp the cable, but you still have to
file or grind it square afterwards. i use a bench grinder
- a fabulously useful tool for only $40.
 
Zilla wrote:

> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>
For brake casing, find something which can slip between the
coils like a diagonal side cutter ( the tool whose Name
Shall Not Be Spoken) or an end cutter. You may finish with a
light touch on a grindwheel if you're a perfectionist. At
any rate, ensure the aperture is not occluded by an errant
sharp overhang. We use a pointy spoke to open the teflon
liner. For index gear casing, you'll need something which
can leave a crisp edge in this hard material. Swiss Felco
cutters are the very best but other brands of wire cutters
(the type with a diamond-shaped cutting edges) are fine for
home use. Again, a pointy spoke is great for opening the
teflon liner.

A diamond-shaped cutting edge (Felco, Var, copies) isn't a
particularly good tool for brake casing. Try a tool with a
simpler edge.

That's a bit wordy and I'm enjoying my new camera immensely:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/CASING.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
On 27 Jun 2004 20:33:40 GMT, [email protected] (Mike Krueger) wrote:

><< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
>(IOW, I know it's me.) >>
>
>Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
>with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.

Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small
file. So, if he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it,
then take a file to the end of the housing. The filing takes
longer than after having used a Dremel, but the result is
the same. Extra care when doing this job will pay dividends
with smoothness of cable operation.
 
On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 00:04:21 GMT, H. Morgan <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 27 Jun 2004 20:33:40 GMT, [email protected] (Mike
>Krueger) wrote:
>
>><< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>>tool. (IOW, I know it's me.) >>
>>
>>Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
>>with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.
>
>Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small
>file. So, if he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it,
>then take a file to the end of the housing. The filing
>takes longer than after having used a Dremel, but the
>result is the same. Extra care when doing this job will pay
>dividends with smoothness of cable operation.

With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put two
cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so easily,
which makes the side use safer.

A scriber or nail can open up the inner plastic housing.
 
Mark Hickey wrote:

> Slacker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!
>
>
> One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little
> tubing cutter?
>
> Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home
> of the $695 ti frame
>
>
Yeah, in the hand of a very ****** off ex-GF ;-( She had a
dull butter knife in the other.

Maybe I won't go back to sleep for awhile.

--
Slacker
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out
that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in
case that's what you're using. I haven't used or heard
reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely what you
have if it's new.
 
Nate Knutson <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>
> In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out
> that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in
> case that's what you're using. I haven't used or heard
> reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely what
> you have if it's new.

My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the CN-
10 been out?

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)
 
On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Zilla wrote:
> Nate Knutson <[email protected]> wrote:
> > "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> >> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> >> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
> > In addition to what everyone else says, I should point
> > out that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously
> > bad, in case that's what you're using. I haven't used or
> > heard reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely
> > what you have if it's new.
> My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the CN-10
> been out?

Pardon me if this has been said already by others.

BIG DEAL! No special cutting tool is necessary: any does
the job. Just have at hand a grinding stone/belt or
corborundum disc; use it to round off the badly cut spiral.
Then, insert as fine nail or drill to open up the hole in
the inner casing.

That's all you need.

Sergio Pisa
 
"Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
> cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put
> two cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so
> easily, which makes the side use safer.

Use the fiber reinforced ones, they don't break.
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable
cutter and cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable
supports the inner wall of the housing, giving clean cuts
every time.

--
Jim C
 
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