Cutting cable housing

[Sergio Servadio]

On 28 Jun 2004, Jim Connelley wrote:
> I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable
> cutter and cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable
> supports the inner wall of the housing, giving clean cuts
> every time.

Ho do you remove the stump of the old cable inside? Or, is
this Park tool made not to cut the inner cable? Then, if so,
why inserting an old one?

Sergio Pisa

 

[S O R N I]

Sergio SERVADIO wrote:
> On 28 Jun 2004, Jim Connelley wrote:
>> I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable
>> cutter and cut right thru the housing and cable. The
>> cable supports the inner wall of the housing, giving
>> clean cuts every time.
>
> Ho do you remove the stump of the old cable inside? Or, is
> this Park tool made not to cut the inner cable? Then, if
> so, why inserting an old one?

Cable has to be a bit longer than the housing, that's all.

Bill "pull it out or poke it through (shaddup, Baker!)" S.

 

[Sergio Servadio]

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, S o r n i wrote:
> Cable has to be a bit longer than the housing, that's all.

That means that to cut to length the housing for the rear
brake you must sacrifice an old very long cable. I admit
that this procedure looks rather inconvenient to me.

Sergio Pisa

 

[S O R N I]

Sergio SERVADIO wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, S o r n i wrote:
>> Cable has to be a bit longer than the housing,
>> that's all.
>
> That means that to cut to length the housing for the rear
> brake you must sacrifice an old very long cable. I admit
> that this procedure looks rather inconvenient to me.

Most housing sections are rather short, but if you're
running one long continuous housing then you're probably
correct. (I don't use that method, anyway, but you asked how
to remove "cable stump" so I answered.)

Bill "just cut it clean and poke a nail or something in the
hole to round it" S.

 

[Jonesy]

jim beam <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> tcmedara wrote:
> > Zilla <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> >>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> >>tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
> >
> >
> > I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
> > small nail or an old spoke to round it out again.
> > Doesn't seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm
> > curious to see if there's any way to do it without
> > crushing it.
> >
> yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then
> bend it around very slightly until you see where the coil
> of the cable coincides with the slit. at this point, you
> can hold it slightly open, then use

> wire cutters to cut the coil. it does not crimp the cable,
> but you still have to file or grind it square afterwards.
> i use a bench grinder
> - a fabulously useful tool for only $40.

I understand that a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel does the
same task all at once. Wrap the housing in masking tape,
cut, enjoy.

Oh, and after two Bigfoot Ales, the cuts are rarely square.
The moral? Drink another Bigfoot, and you won't care.
--
Jonesy

 

[Zilla]

Jim Connelley <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>
> I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable
> cutter and cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable
> supports the inner wall of the housing, giving clean cuts
> every time.
>
> --
> Jim C

I'll try this next time...

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)

 

[Zilla]

Weisse Luft <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another vote for Dremel tool. But I haven't had to cut a
> housing since going to Nokon for all my cables.
>
>
>
> --

Why is that? What's special about Nokon?

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)

 

[Zilla]

Peter Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
>> cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put
>> two cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so
>> easily, which makes the side use safer.
>
> Use the fiber reinforced ones, they don't break.

What brand carry them? For brake and der.?

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)

 

[Kantspel]

Jonesy wrote:
> jim beam <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>tcmedara wrote:
>>
>>>Zilla <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>>>>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>>>>tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
>>>
>>>
>>>I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
>>>small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
>>>seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to
>>>see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.
>>>
>>
>>yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then
>>bend it around very slightly until you see where the coil
>>of the cable coincides with the slit. at this point, you
>>can hold it slightly open, then use
>
>
>>wire cutters to cut the coil. it does not crimp the cable,
>>but you still have to file or grind it square afterwards.
>>i use a bench grinder
>>- a fabulously useful tool for only $40.
>
>
> I understand that a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel does
> the same task all at once. Wrap the housing in masking
> tape, cut, enjoy.
>
> Oh, and after two Bigfoot Ales, the cuts are rarely
> square. The moral? Drink another Bigfoot, and you won't
> care.

Dremels work very well but you have to use the large cutting
disc and do it quickly. If you cut slowly it melts the inner
liner and you end up still having to open it back up.

 

[Peter Cole]

"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Peter Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
> > "Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote
> >>
> >> With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
> >> cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually
> >> put two cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so
> >> easily, which makes the side use safer.
> >
> > Use the fiber reinforced ones, they don't break.
>
> What brand carry them? For brake and der.?

I don't know the brand, my local hardware shop carries them
in a blister pack with 3 or so disks. They look obviously
like the have a fiber mesh, and are larger in diameter than
the brittle ones that come with Dremel tools. They cut
quickly through both brake & der housing, you have to open
up the plastic inner lining a bit with a pointed object (I
twirl a drywall screw). It's also easy to square the ends up
if you cut at an angle (using the side of the disk). I often
chamfer the outer plastic a bit at a slower speed to help
them fit in the ferule.

 

[Alex Rodriguez]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
>
>What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
>(IOW, I know it's me.)

I use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. Nice clean smooth
cuts every time.
--------------
Alex

 

[Alex Rodriguez]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
>
>On 27 Jun 2004 20:33:40 GMT, [email protected] (Mike
>Krueger) wrote:
>
>><< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
>>inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
>>tool. (IOW, I know it's me.) >>
>>
>>Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
>>with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.
>
>Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small
>file. So, if he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it,
>then take a file to the end of the housing. The filing
>takes longer than after having used a Dremel, but the
>result is the same. Extra care when doing this job will pay
>dividends with smoothness of cable operation.

You must be doing something wrong. The nice thing about
using the dremel/cut off wheel method is that is smooths as
it cuts. The ony thing you need to do when you are done is
use a sharp object to open up the casing liner.
------------
Alex

 

[Nate Knutson]

Sergio SERVADIO <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Zilla wrote:
> > Nate Knutson <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >> What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> > >> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> > >> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)
> > > In addition to what everyone else says, I should point
> > > out that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously
> > > bad, in case that's what you're using. I haven't used
> > > or heard reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is
> > > likely what you have if it's new.
> > My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the CN-10
> > been out?
>
> Pardon me if this has been said already by others.
>
> BIG DEAL! No special cutting tool is necessary: any does
> the job. Just have at hand a grinding stone/belt or
> corborundum disc; use it to round off the badly cut
> spiral. Then, insert as fine nail or drill to open up the
> hole in the inner casing.
>
> That's all you need.
>
> Sergio Pisa

The problem with the old Park cutter, or at least the one I
had bad experiences with, was that housings and cables had
the tendency to get stuck sideways between the jaws. This
results in a cut that's pretty ridiculously messy compared
to everything else.

I think the CN-10 was new in 2003, so you should be fine.
Check the Park site.

 

[Sergio Servadio]

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, S o r n i wrote:
> Most housing sections are rather short, but if you're
> running one long continuous housing then you're probably
> correct. (I don't use that method, anyway, but you asked
> how to remove "cable stump" so I answered.)

Thanks.

In the meantime a gave it a second thought and, although I
shall continue with my well tested method, I found a way to
get around that inconvenience if the housing is to be very
long. The new cable to be installes being a lot longer
anyhow, first shorten the housing kin any manner a couple of
centimeters too long than needed. Then insert, from the
other end, the new cable. This is waaaaaaaaay to long and,
when you cut the housing to measure you are throwing away
only a couple of cento\imeters of the new cable: no more
than that.

So, no problem!

Yours

Sergio Pisa

 

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Sergio SERVADIO" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, S o r n i wrote:
> > Most housing sections are rather short, but if you're
> > running one long continuous housing then you're probably
> > correct. (I don't use that
method,
> > anyway, but you asked how to remove "cable stump" so I
> > answered.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> In the meantime a gave it a second thought and, although I
> shall continue with my well tested method, I found a way
> to get around that inconvenience if the housing is to be
> very long. The new cable to be installes being a lot
> longer anyhow, first shorten the housing kin any manner a
> couple of centimeters too long than needed. Then insert,
> from the other end, the new cable. This is waaaaaaaaay to
> long and, when you cut the housing to measure you are
> throwing away only a couple of cento\imeters of the new
> cable: no more than that.
>
> So, no problem!

Yup - this was the way I found obvious! However, I wouldn't
use a new cable inner - I NEVER trim the ends off my cables,
as I don't like them to fray at all - I keep the welded end
attached, and just coil the excess up really tight and tuck
it away safely. This means can pull the inner and outer
apart for servicing/cleaning any number of times, until the
cables are worn out.

Shaun aRe

 

[Jonesy]

kantspel <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Jonesy wrote:
>
> > I understand that a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel does
> > the same task all at once. Wrap the housing in masking
> > tape, cut, enjoy.
> >
> > Oh, and after two Bigfoot Ales, the cuts are rarely
> > square. The moral? Drink another Bigfoot, and you won't
> > care.
>
>
>
> Dremels work very well but you have to use the large
> cutting disc and do it quickly. If you cut slowly it melts
> the inner liner and you end up still having to open it
> back up.

I gave it up because I never cut the damn things square with
the Dremel. You can prevent the melt by sticking a piece of
copper wire in while you cut. I forget the gauge, but it
worked OK for that. Nowadays, I use the Park cutter and a
file. And I take my time - no slap-dash stuff.
--
Jonesy

 

[x]

RE/
>I keep the welded end attached, and just coil the excess up
>really tight and tuck it away safely.

I'd be wary of doing that with Avid mechs (or, I'd guess any
other disk brake).

Word I got was that the cable end can get wedged in the
rotor/caliper - kind of like a stick in the spokes - with
disasterous results at speed.
--
PeteCresswell

 

[Jeremy Collins]

Mike Krueger wrote:

> << What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
> inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
> tool. (IOW, I know it's me.) >>
>
> Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
> with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.

Thanks from a noobish lurker! I've been putting off fitting
a back brake to a MTB refurb project as I couldn't figure
out how to do the cutting. Did it last night with the Dremel
and it worked perfectly!

Cheers,

--
jc

Remove the -not from email

 

[Shaun Rimmer]

"(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RE/
> >I keep the welded end attached, and just coil the excess
> >up really tight and tuck it away safely.
>
> I'd be wary of doing that with Avid mechs (or, I'd guess
> any other disk
brake).
>
> Word I got was that the cable end can get wedged in the
> rotor/caliper -
kind of
> like a stick in the spokes - with disasterous results
> at speed.

So would I, if I HAD any mech discs ',;~}~

There's ways and means of keeping the coiled end out of the
way though, in any case.

Shaun aRe