Cutting Seatposts

censored said:

Bill Wheeler said:

I hear there are a few riders in this NG who even cut down there handlebars, (can't have a extra
1 inch sticking out or some other dumb sh!t reason).

Ever clip a tree?

Nope not me, not ever. Okay MAYBE once.......

There are a few tight squeezes on Fire Line and Hemlock Loop at FOMBA that are only 1/2" wider than
my Uncle Jesse bars..

There is one in particulat ths is 1/2" _narrower_ than my bars. I disctinctlly recall the ride in
which I found that out... I remember riding along and seeing it and thinking "Just ride through like
you always do, you can make it, you've got it, you've got it, plenty of room!!!" <wham> "You ait got
it!" <testicles meet stem> "UffDAaaa!!!!!"

I have since learned how to "lean and flick" my way through these tight spots.

John G said:

Jonathan Bond said:

then again, I've considered putting Ti and Aluminum bolts all over

Quoted message said:

my new bike, and its getting carbon fiber spacers... 😉

<Pssst> hey kid <psst> wanna buy some Ti? I got some Ti innet and outter chainring bolts. Come on,
you know you wanna.... Finest kind, highest grade. Commercially pure.

Ti chainring bolts? What do you take me for, a fool! You have to get ALLOY chainring bolts, they're
lighter and can still handle the stress. Seatpost/Stem/bolts that need more strength are Ti, the
rest are alloy. Ti is 6 wasted grams, and no anodized purple! For shame...

Jon Bond

I think what he means is that if you cut the non-butted part off your post then lower the post into
the seat tube, you could crush the butted part of the post.

--
Bob ctviggen at rcn dot com

"Lee Bower" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

So what you're saying is that you shouldn't adjust your seatpost to the proper height because it
could be in an area where it is butted??? What

does

Quoted message said:

that have to do with cutting the post that is way down in the frame?

Lee

"John G" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Eric Lafferty said:

It's easy enough to do so what's the big deal?

As I stated earlier, _some_ seatposts are internally butted so they are thicker at the clamping
area and thinner elsewhere. if you are now changing the actual clamping area, you might
possibly be clamping down on an area not designed to sustain such clamping forces, and thus
crush the post

Jonathan Bond said:

John G said:

Jonathan Bond said:

then again, I've considered putting Ti and Aluminum bolts all over
my new bike, and its getting carbon fiber spacers... 😉

<Pssst> hey kid <psst> wanna buy some Ti? I got some Ti innet and outter chainring bolts. Come
on, you know you wanna.... Finest kind, highest grade. Commercially pure.

Quoted message said:

Ti chainring bolts? What do you take me for, a fool! You have to get ALLOY chainring bolts,
they're lighter and can still handle the stress.\

Maybe under a fly-weight like you they can. For folks like me it's Steel or Ti bolts ONLY.

censored said:

Bill Wheeler wrote: I hear there are a few riders in

Quoted message said:

this NG who even cut down there handlebars, (can't have a extra 1 inch sticking out or some other
dumb sh!t reason).

Ever clip a tree?

Yes, and I still do....but it's not the bars, it's me trying to hard to cut it close.

Peace, Bill The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind
should give an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world.
:-]

"Mark Hickey" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jan Sacharuk said:

Sometimes, having a couple kilometres of post is just a pain.

Yeah, I would imagine so... like for example, having to mount your bike with the use of a
helicopter.

you could hold onto the seatpost with the bike vertical, run like hell, pull the back brake on and
stick the wheel in the ground pole-vault style and hey presto!

Quoted message said:

Plus, I'd have to believe finding a stem to get the bar height right would be a [censored].

those riser bars are just a fashion statement though so you'd definitely need a lot of steerer
and spacers.

And I wouldn't

Quoted message said:

want to ride it down much of a hill!

think about it this way - you could ride to the bottom of a hill, pull an endo and dismount
gracefully a couple of k's uphill, pull the bike up to you and ride down again! (N.B. don't forget
to put the saddle down a couple of inches) .

Steve E.