Cutting Steerer Tube

rudycyclist said:

I'm looking to cut my steerer tube because I have dropped my stem almost as far as it can go now and I have a big part of my steerer tube sticking up. I'm wondering if people usually just leave it like it is or if it can be cut? Or is it worth getting cut? Would it be better just to keep my steerer tube long in case I lose my flexibility and want to raise it?

Measure twice cut once. Whenever I do a build, I keep it long with some spacers on top of the stem until the rider feels it is right. Then I trim the tube down.

I can tell you that slapping on a couple of spacers above the threadless type stem will work, and it doesn't look too bad if it's only about a half inch or so. I think though that you need spacers to protrude above the steerer so that the star nut and bolt can properly tension the headset bearings before you tighten the stem bolts.

I have my spacers on and everything, but I'm just wondering if I should cut the steerer tube 1. to cut weight (yes I know it's a very small amount) 2. to get rid of the big, goofy looking tube 3. its not needed.

How hard is it to do? Should my LBS charge me much for doing it?

As a previous poster said, make sure you have the length you want before cutting it. Your lbs will most likely charge to do this unless you know them really well and they're willing to do it for free.
I've done it several times and use a tube cutter found at any hardware or plumbing supplies store. Once cut I file it to a smoother edge; makes no difference if you do, I don't think, but saves me from cutting myself on the sharp edge.
BTW, at least one of my bikes has a spacer above the stem. Can't remember why I didn't cut it to length but I've left it that way since and it doesn't bother me.

capwater said:

Measure twice cut once. Whenever I do a build, I keep it long with some spacers on top of the stem until the rider feels it is right. Then I trim the tube down.

ANd don't forget to leave a 2-3mm gap from the top of the stem/spacer to the top of the steerer tube, to snug the headset bearings in place. Personally I like a 5mm spacer over the stem. I just don't love the idea of the stem bolts clamping around the top of the steerer.

Read somewhere that Trek actually recommends keeping a spacer below the stem to reduce stress on the steerer tube. I agree that keeping a spacer above the stem is also a wise move to optimize the stem clamping interface.

I cut one of mine(full carbon) with a cut off disc on my angle grinder(who needs to buy a special pipe cutter?). Looked fine. Cleaned it up with fine sandpaper🙂

Bigbananabike said:

I cut one of mine(full carbon) with a cut off disc on my angle grinder(who needs to buy a special pipe cutter?). Looked fine. Cleaned it up with fine sandpaper🙂

thats in my experience actually the cleanest way to cut, though using a proper drop saw that you clamp the steerer into and then drop the cut off wheel to get a perfectly straight cut. just wrap the tip of the steerer with a layer of masking tape to prevent any possibility of splintering off the back.

--brett

If you have an aluminum steerer, just buy a cheap hacksaw and a miter box. MTB steerers are CroMo so you may have to buy extra good blades. Clamp it in there somehow, though.

I just cut mine with a hack saw then clean it up with a file. it don't realy matter if its square but i make it square just incase someone see's it one day and takes the [censored]. I always cut it as low as possible to give a little bit more knee clearance and i never use a spacer on top. im an mtb rider so as previously mentioned im cutting cromo. alu might be a little weak with no spacer on top. but bear in mind, ill happlyjump around 1.5 metre high then land on the front wheel, and iv never broken a steerer, the handle bar always goes first.

capwater said:

Measure twice cut once. Whenever I do a build, I keep it long with some spacers on top of the stem until the rider feels it is right. Then I trim the tube down.

I agree with this. With a new bike I always leave a lot of room on the steerer then slowly lower it stacking the spacers on top as I get used to the bike. When the time is right I cut it again to size.

It's not rocket science to cut the steerer. I once did a quick job on a carbon steerer and I didnt even needed to remove the fork from the bike and just removed the handlebar/stem hanging with the cables while I hacked with a dremel tool - just took minutes. If you're not adept nor confident then I suggest you mark where the cut will be, remove the fork. Cut with the aid of a vise.

garage sale GT said:

If you have an aluminum steerer, just buy a cheap hacksaw and a miter box. MTB steerers are CroMo so you may have to buy extra good blades. Clamp it in there somehow, though.

A miter isnt necessary if you first install the fork on the frame, stack the spacers and install the stem. Then mark the steerer with permanent pen using the top of the stem as the miter.

sogood said:

Read somewhere that Trek actually recommends keeping a spacer below the stem to reduce stress on the steerer tube. I agree that keeping a spacer above the stem is also a wise move to optimize the stem clamping interface.

Heard the same advice when dealing with CF steerers, 3mm spacer ought to do it without looking odd.