Derailling Frustration...

MRP said:

Hi all, I'm MRP and this is my first post...

I've been Mtn Biking the Colorado front range for the past 3 yrs, lost my share of skin and sweat and have loved every minute of it.

I've been able to fix and replace parts on my ride with a fair amount of trial an error and I have a new problem that's not responding to my trials.

My derailleur is not taking me from top to bottom on my gears...even in the 2nd chain ring I can't traverse all 8. I seem to only be able to adjust to do 2-8 or 1-7. Also, grip shifting up or down into 6 doesn't take with the typical 'click' of the other gears. I have to over shift and then back-in to 6. I've adjusted the angle of the derailleur (with the screw adjust that levers against the chainstay) and that only moves the situation to gear 5 or 7.

Before I go out and buy a new derailleur, are there any other things I can check? Cables, shifters, etc?

Thanks!

I think you might want to go to your local bike shop and ask them either to replace new cables or adjust them. I once have problems with them too. My LBS tells me that my cables have to be replaced. I hope that helps. 😄

MRP said:

Hi all, I'm MRP and this is my first post...

I've been Mtn Biking the Colorado front range for the past 3 yrs, lost my share of skin and sweat and have loved every minute of it.

I've been able to fix and replace parts on my ride with a fair amount of trial an error and I have a new problem that's not responding to my trials.

My derailleur is not taking me from top to bottom on my gears...even in the 2nd chain ring I can't traverse all 8. I seem to only be able to adjust to do 2-8 or 1-7. Also, grip shifting up or down into 6 doesn't take with the typical 'click' of the other gears. I have to over shift and then back-in to 6. I've adjusted the angle of the derailleur (with the screw adjust that levers against the chainstay) and that only moves the situation to gear 5 or 7.

Before I go out and buy a new derailleur, are there any other things I can check? Cables, shifters, etc?

Thanks!

Cables and Housings:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

Derailer adjustments and care:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_deroh.shtml
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/DAG.shtml

Thanks for the links for cables/housings/derailmaint, I'll check them out.

Any thoughts on my chain being the culprit? It's a few years old....It's got at least 400 miles on it in 2004 alone...

MRP said:

Thanks for the links for cables/housings/derailmaint, I'll check them out.

Any thoughts on my chain being the culprit? It's a few years old....It's got at least 400 miles on it in 2004 alone...

Yes, it could be chain too, but cables and housings would be my first guess.
Sheldon also has a great illustrated article on chain maintenance:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
especially look at the segment on chain and sprocket wear.
If you have a chain tool it would be pretty cheap and easy to eliminate the chain as a contributor. A good quality chain that matches the number of speeds you are using and the type of cogs you have should be an inexpensive replacement. However, understanding the total wear scenario is quite helpful to your maintenance plan and your budget.
You can learn about the details of your cassette in another sheldon Brown article:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
Make sure you know exactly what kind of cogs you have before swapping chains. HG and IG chains are quite different as 7 speed IG cogs are .5 mm thicker than 7 speed HG cogs... as one example. SRAM and Shimano chains are quite popular. Often the lower cost models perform quite well and last just as long. They may not have the shiny plating and other cosmetic niceties, but they are better values.... often 1/2 or less in price. SRAM chains come with a joining link that makes assembly and disassembly easier.
Shimano comes with a one-time-use special joining "pin" that must be very carefully placed... and a alignment section broken off. I like Shimano chains but I also really like the SRAM links. You can use Shimano chains with a SRAM link, but you must be sure to get the one with correct dimensions to work with your specific width chain. Sometimes it's just easier to buy SRAM and get the whole package. However, I find that Shimano chains shift better on Shimano cogs.... especially HG cogs with HG chains.

I had a similar problem with a 9 speed set up and tried everything. Certainly changing cables and chain made a difference but never quite cured it in my case. Problem came back after only a couple of rides. Another factor that helped at times was checking the hanger for straightness.

Finally cured it a couple of weeks ago - it turned out to be the bolt that holds the derailleur onto the hanger. This had corroded/got gunked up and was not allowing the derailleur its full range of movement on the forward backward plane.

I fixed it by removing the bolt from the actual derailleur and regreasing it. If you do this keep a close eye on the parts as you remove the circlip as they are liable to ping out under the return spring pressure. Only worth trying if the forward / backward action is stiff in the first place.

hi!

3 years is a pretty long time for a chain and cogset to remain efficient, esp if you ride in conditions as muddy or dusty as we do in the Philippines...changed my 7701 chain and shimano 750 cogset after 18 months, and voila 🙂

MRP said:

Hi all, I'm MRP and this is my first post...

I've been Mtn Biking the Colorado front range for the past 3 yrs, lost my share of skin and sweat and have loved every minute of it.

I've been able to fix and replace parts on my ride with a fair amount of trial an error and I have a new problem that's not responding to my trials.

My derailleur is not taking me from top to bottom on my gears...even in the 2nd chain ring I can't traverse all 8. I seem to only be able to adjust to do 2-8 or 1-7. Also, grip shifting up or down into 6 doesn't take with the typical 'click' of the other gears. I have to over shift and then back-in to 6. I've adjusted the angle of the derailleur (with the screw adjust that levers against the chainstay) and that only moves the situation to gear 5 or 7.

Before I go out and buy a new derailleur, are there any other things I can check? Cables, shifters, etc?

Thanks!

ok this maybe a dumb idea but are you limit screws set in the right positions

Yeah, I figured out the limit screws with my first 10 speed back in the late 70's!🙂 . If the "phenomenon" had happend at the upper or lower limits I'd certainly suspect them...the more feedback I get the more it points at cables, cogset, and chain...as all 3 are original equip I probably can't go wrong with replacing them....or getting a new bike! Thanks for the reply!

gulliver said:

hi!

3 years is a pretty long time for a chain and cogset to remain efficient, esp if you ride in conditions as muddy or dusty as we do in the Philippines...changed my 7701 chain and shimano 750 cogset after 18 months, and voila 🙂

I hear ya! The time spent on my bike in Michigan was pretty tame. In Colorado I use it to commute, climb the footlhills, and pull my 4 yr old daughter around on her tag-along.

I think it's time to get serious and do some replacements! Thanks!😄

3x8 doesn't nescessarily add up to 24. Some of them are the same ratio. As long as you can get most of the gears (i.e. 1-7 when on the small gear ring, and 2-8 when on the large ring), be satisfied. Otherwise you would be cross-chaining and wearing out you chain alot quicker.
Keep on Riding

peet9471 said:

3x8 doesn't nescessarily add up to 24. Some of them are the same ratio. As long as you can get most of the gears (i.e. 1-7 when on the small gear ring, and 2-8 when on the large ring), be satisfied. Otherwise you would be cross-chaining and wearing out you chain alot quicker.
Keep on Riding

i occssionally suffer from shifting problems very similar, but i usually fix it by cleaning the deraileur and the spring on the deraileur with a toothbrush.

it seems that when i have the spring extended and have left the bike to dry with mud still on it it seems to make the spring thicker that it really is so i can't shift to my smallest 2 or drop to the larger 2 but any adjustments i do make to compensate the dirt means i end up missing gears and like you have to rise then drop to hit gears

I would go ahead and replace the cable (cableS if its been a year or so) and reset your adjustments, including cable tension. My buddy has problems with his rear Deore everynow and then. Its usually cable tension.
I did notice youve got grip shifters. Might want a LBS to check em out and make sure theyre not needing a rebuild.

MRP said:

Hi all, I'm MRP and this is my first post...

I've been Mtn Biking the Colorado front range for the past 3 yrs, lost my share of skin and sweat and have loved every minute of it.

I've been able to fix and replace parts on my ride with a fair amount of trial an error and I have a new problem that's not responding to my trials.

My derailleur is not taking me from top to bottom on my gears...even in the 2nd chain ring I can't traverse all 8. I seem to only be able to adjust to do 2-8 or 1-7. Also, grip shifting up or down into 6 doesn't take with the typical 'click' of the other gears. I have to over shift and then back-in to 6. I've adjusted the angle of the derailleur (with the screw adjust that levers against the chainstay) and that only moves the situation to gear 5 or 7.

Before I go out and buy a new derailleur, are there any other things I can check? Cables, shifters, etc?

Thanks!

MRP said:

Hi all, I'm MRP and this is my first post...

I've been Mtn Biking the Colorado front range for the past 3 yrs, lost my share of skin and sweat and have loved every minute of it.

I've been able to fix and replace parts on my ride with a fair amount of trial an error and I have a new problem that's not responding to my trials.

My derailleur is not taking me from top to bottom on my gears...even in the 2nd chain ring I can't traverse all 8. I seem to only be able to adjust to do 2-8 or 1-7. Also, grip shifting up or down into 6 doesn't take with the typical 'click' of the other gears. I have to over shift and then back-in to 6. I've adjusted the angle of the derailleur (with the screw adjust that levers against the chainstay) and that only moves the situation to gear 5 or 7.

Before I go out and buy a new derailleur, are there any other things I can check? Cables, shifters, etc?

Thanks!

First check that nothing is obviously bent (derailler hanger, cable housing, derailler cage), the replace things cheapest to most expensive in order (cables, chain, cluster, derailleur) and you will ultimately cure your woes. Checking that the top pivot is still moving freely is also a good idea, but I wouldn't have thought that would affect your shifting in the manner you describe.

Sam