Do shorter cranks require adjusting cleat float settings, or can you simply swap out the cranks and maintain the same float settings as before. Is the reduction in crank length somehow offset by the existing float settings, or does the shorter crank arm necessitate a change in order to maintain proper alignment and prevent discomfort or injury.
If adjustments are necessary, what is the general rule of thumb for adjusting cleat float when switching to shorter cranks. Is it a matter of simply tightening or loosening the screws to adjust the float, or is there a more complex process involved.
Are there any specific considerations that need to be taken into account when adjusting cleat float for shorter cranks, such as the type of pedal system being used or the individual riders biomechanics.
Can anyone provide some insight into the relationship between crank length and cleat float, and how changes to one affect the other. Is there a specific range of crank lengths for which adjustments to cleat float are more or less necessary.
Are there any general guidelines or best practices for adjusting cleat float when switching to shorter cranks, and are there any potential risks or drawbacks to be aware of if the float settings are not adjusted properly.