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double drilled cranks?

Started by mornish · · Last activity · 20 posts · 442 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
16 August 2006
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17 August 2006
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mornish
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  1. I had an idea yesterday from PDC's tri drilled kookas. Would it be
    possible to get a set of koxx splined cranks(140mm) and also have them
    drilled for 125 or 127 so that you could switch from having a trials
    setup to a street setup in about a minute? would this work seeing as
    the cranks are solid aluminum, or would it weakon the cranks
    considerably?

    thanks,
    Miles

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  2. I don't really think it would work on splined cranks. You need that
    pinch bolt to keep everything snug. If you had another hole - well, it
    would be more like a star kindof hole - bored into the crank, it would
    lack the pinch bolt.

    Say you overcame that issue, and you have a way to keep everything
    tight. I'd imagine that after a couple of drops, the cranks would start
    to bend.

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  3. It would be another pedal hole.

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  4. since I'm sure not many people have tried it, it may be that the only
    way to find out is to do it.

    I agree though, that it may weaken the cranks a lot.

    --
    onelesscar

    mmm...i love my qu-ax...and now my kh 20...
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  5. It would be really hard to do that on koxx cranks because of their
    design. It has this metal, splined pedal insert that crimps down into
    the alu crank so you would have to dupicate that whole thing for
    another hole. It would be hard.

    --
    Spencer Hochberg

    (disclaimer: i may not know what i am talking about)

    Evan said:

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  6. oh. It would be nice if someone designed cranks like that though. hmm,
    KH cranks won't work because there steel tubing correct?

    what does the pedal insert thing look like?

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  7. correct.

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    onelesscar

    mmm...i love my qu-ax...and now my kh 20...
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  8. mornish said:

    oh. It would be nice if someone designed cranks like that though. hmm,
    KH cranks won't work because there steel tubing correct?

    what does the pedal insert thing look like?

    umm why wouldn't steel tubing work?
    you CAN drill a hole in it, and you could weld reinforcements to it

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  9. KH cranks seem to have a bad reputation for bending nowadays and
    drilling another hole in them would probably be really bad.

    --
    Spencer Hochberg

    (disclaimer: i may not know what i am talking about)

    Evan said:

    i just found some candy in a suitcase under my bed, i have no clue how
    old it is...i ate it anyway

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  10. two pedel holes would bash your ankle up pretty bad in the shorter crank
    setting (I think) because the q factor would still go outwards into
    your ankle. plus after a switching X amount of times it would ware out

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    Radical Reed

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  11. Radical Reed said:

    two pedel holes would bash your ankle up pretty bad in the shorter crank
    setting (I think) because the q factor would still go outwards into
    your ankle. plus after a switching X amount of times it would ware out

    What the HECK do you mean by Q factor??
    there is NO q factor of cranks

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  12. skrobo said:

    What the HECK do you mean by Q factor??
    there is NO q factor of cranks

    What are you talking about? Q factor is the distance from pedal to
    pedal, with more q factor, the cranks are angled out (like KH, profile,
    etc.)

    --
    Spencer Hochberg

    (disclaimer: i may not know what i am talking about)

    Evan said:

    i just found some candy in a suitcase under my bed, i have no clue how
    old it is...i ate it anyway

    'Gallery.unicyclist.com/spencer'
    (http://Gallery.unicyclist.com/spencer)
    AIM: Litldude2
    Email: Litldude2 (att) aol (dott) com
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  13. yea, that's why I was thinking of using koxx cranks.

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  14. I think you could drill and tap the Koxx cranks. The Kookas are aluminum
    and are quite hard enough to accept pedals without inserts. I guess
    finding out what type of aluminum the Koxx ones are made of.

    In summary: You want to make sure your Koxx is hard enough before you
    start drilling.

    Sorry i didn't think of that till i finished typing the first part and
    couldn't help myself.

    --
    pdc

    "What doesn't kill you strengthens you, what kills you strengthens your
    mother"
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  15. ok, do you think the extra holes would weakon the cranks alot?

    PDC: how do you drill/tap the holes, do you have someone do them for
    you?

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  16. would it be possible to put peices of metal inside the KH cranks so that
    it would work?

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/52152

  17. I dont know the ins and outs but for street riding it could be a pain.

    I could imagine the end of the cranks getting in the way for flip
    tricks and the such. Maybe, maybe not.

    Mike

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  18. oh, didn't think of that.

    --
    mornish

    tobbogonist said:

    that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
    parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
    out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
    few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.


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  19. The Koxx cranks have a metal insert that the pedals go into, so perhaps
    the aluminum isn't strong enough to tap a pedal thread into.

    I guess there is only one way to find out though

    jim

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  20. You could weld a tubular insert into the KH cranks and thread it to
    accept a pedal, but this would be some serious machine work and it
    would taker a skilled machinist to make a good job of it. Also the
    cranks are I believe CrMo not steel so more difficult to weld, harder
    on cutting tools etc. which all adds up to more cost. It would probably
    be better just to get different cranks, with their self extracting
    system KH cranks are as easy to remove as pedals, although would take
    longer unless you had 2 sets of pedals, becaue you'd have to swap them
    over aswell. That fact that KH cranks stick out (Im not going anywhere
    near the whole Q-factor debate) means that the protruding ends might
    hit your foot/ankle when it is between the 9 and 3 positions

    People seem to have had a lot of problems with the koxx pedal threads,
    I certainly wouldn't thread the aluminium directly, a pressed steel
    insert would be needed. Drilling a hole would weaken the cranks, but as
    it is near the pedal end the moment is less so this effect would be
    diminished so it might be workable. Also I understand people genreally
    bust cranks more doing street than trials, and for street the pedal
    will be in the nearer hole, decreasing the moment so done properly this
    setup would actually be stronger than your current cranks. However with
    the pedal in the outer hole there would be a significant weakening,
    just a case of how much force you put on them doing trials. Also you're
    probably going to need some milling work done to get a flat for the
    pedal nut to butt up to get a solid fit.

    Having said all this, there's only one way to find out, just make sure
    you used a skilled machinist who understands the aim of the project and
    is familiar with the materials used, for goodness sake don't try it
    yourself at home with a power drill! Good luck.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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