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"Dutch processed" or regular baking cocoa?

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General fitness, health and nutrition
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25 March 2004
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29 March 2004
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Franfogel
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  1. If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can one
    use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure whether
    there is some necessary chemical interaction or it's just a
    matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in
    taste? Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking
    questions? Thanks!

    Fran

  2. "Franfogel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can
    one use regular


    cocoa

    Quoted message said:

    without a problem? I'm not sure whether there is some
    necessary chemical interaction or it's just a matter of
    taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in taste?
    Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking


    questions?

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks!

    Fran

    Yes there is a difference and recipes usually call for one
    or the other because of the chemical reaction.

    See Below:

    Dimitri

    cocoa powder [KOH-koh] Both CHOCOLATE and cocoa powder come
    from cocoa beans that grow in pods on the tropical Theobroma
    cacao tree, which is found in Southeast Asia, Africa,
    Hawaii, Brazil and other South American countries. Once
    cocoa beans are fermented, dried, roasted and cracked, the
    nibs are ground to extract about 75 percent of the cocoa
    butter, leaving a dark brown paste called chocolate liquor.
    After drying again, the hardened mass is ground into the
    powder known as unsweetened cocoa. The richer, darker Dutch
    cocoa has been treated with an ALKALI, which helps
    neutralize cocoa's natural acidity. Cocoa powder is sold
    plain or mixed with other ingredients such as milk powder
    and sugar, forming an instant cocoa mix. Cocoa mixes should
    not be substituted for cocoa powder in recipes. Store cocoa
    powder airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 2 years. ©
    Copyright Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995 based on
    THE FOOD LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition,

  3. Quoted message said:

    (Franfogel)

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can one
    use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure whether
    there is some necessary chemical interaction or it's just a
    matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in
    taste? Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking
    questions?

    No reason you can't use either; for baking I prefer high fat
    cocoa, for beverages Dutched cocoa is supposedly smoother...
    but that's subjective... use what ya got.

    cocoa powder [KOH-koh] Both CHOCOLATE and cocoa powder come
    from cocoa beans that grow in pods on the tropical Theobroma
    cacao tree, which is found in Southeast Asia, Africa,
    Hawaii, Brazil and other South American countries. Once
    cocoa beans are fermented, dried, roasted and cracked, the
    nibs are ground to extract about 75 percent of the cocoa
    butter, leaving a dark brown paste called chocolate liquor.
    After drying again, the hardened mass is ground into the
    powder known as unsweetened cocoa. The richer, darker Dutch
    cocoa has been treated with an ALKALI, which helps
    neutralize cocoa's natural acidity. Cocoa powder is sold
    plain or mixed with other ingredients such as milk powder
    and sugar, forming an instant cocoa mix. Cocoa mixes should
    not be substituted for cocoa powder in recipes. Store cocoa
    powder airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 2 years.

    © Copyright Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995 based
    on THE FOOD LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition, by Sharon
    Tyler Herbst.

    ---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =--- ---= Move UNITED
    NATIONS To Paris =--- Sheldon ```````````` "Life would be
    devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

  4. Franfogel said:

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can
    one use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure
    whether there is some necessary chemical interaction or
    it's just a matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual
    difference in taste? Anyone know the answer to these
    earthshaking questions? Thanks!

    Fran

    That should work, but if it calls for regular cocoa you
    cannot necessarily substitute dutched cocoa. Regular cocoa
    is acidic, and dutch process cocoa is alkaline; they react
    differently with the baking soda in the recipe.

    -bob

  5. [email hidden] (Franfogel) wrote in
    :"]news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can
    one use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure
    whether there is some necessary chemical interaction or
    it's just a matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual
    difference in taste? Anyone know the answer to these
    earthshaking questions? Thanks!

    Fran

    Well I prefer the taste of the Dutch process. There is a
    difference though...Regular Coca is more acidic.

    --
    Once during Prohibition I was forced to live for days on
    nothing but food and water.
    --------
    FIELDS, W. C.

  6. at Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:16:25 GMT in
    <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
    (Franfogel) wrote :

    Quoted message said:

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can one
    use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure whether
    there is some necessary chemical interaction or it's just a
    matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in
    taste? Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking
    questions? Thanks!

    Fran

    To a certain extent, it depends on the recipe. Dutch
    processed cocoa (which has been processed with potassium
    carbonate, an alkali), is as you'd expect, more alkaline
    than "natural process". Now, some recipes depend on a
    reaction between alkaline baking soda and an acid in the
    ingredients, and if that acid is supposed to be cocoa, using
    natural process is the only way it's going to turn out
    correctly. An example, for instance, is Devil's Food cake.
    But your recipe calls for Dutch process, so it's not
    depending on that sort of reaction. However, if you use
    natural process instead, it's possible that the extra
    acidity will imbalance a leavening action. You could get
    maddeningly inconsistent results, such as extreme cake
    doming, uneven texture, large bubbles, stratification (where
    the top is very light and airy, while the bottom is dense,
    often not even baked through, resulting in a fudgy texture)
    and other problems.

    As to flavour, there is a considerable difference. Dutch-
    process has a milder overall taste with a distinct metallic
    twang. Generally it's blander and more uniform. Natural-
    process is much more lively and more powerful. It can
    deliver a potent bitter kick with some brands, especially if
    the amount of cocoa you use is considerable. Natural-process
    is also more variable in flavour - it's useful here to try
    different cocoas and see which one you like best.

    Dutch-process cocoa also makes for a darker colour. This is
    deceptive, because it can lead the unsuspecting eater into
    the belief that the cake will be stronger in flavour than
    the usually redder, lighter colour of a cake (or for that
    matter, anything else) made with natural-process, but it
    will in fact be less strong for the same amount of cocoa.

    Natural-process cocoa is more heat-sensitive, which means
    you need to pay closer attention to the actual state of the
    cake in the oven and ignore stated baking times. The best
    rule is: when the smell of cocoa from the oven becomes
    INTENSE and deep, the cake is done.

    If the cake has other flavours, different types of cocoa
    make a better match. For cream, custard, blueberries,
    bananas, white chocolate, and caramel, Dutch-processed
    cocoa is better. For strawberries, raspberries, cherries,
    blackberries, coffee, cinnamon, and nuts, natural-process
    is better. The idea is to choose the cocoa whose flavour
    most complements the other flavouring and doesn't overwhelm
    it. That's why chocolate cakes with white frosting are
    usually made with Dutch-process cocoa: besides the visual
    appeal of the dark, almost black cake against the white
    frosting, a natural-process cake would overwhelm the
    flavour of white frosting.

    Finally, cocoas come in 2 fat contents: high-fat (~24%) and
    low-fat (~7%) Low-fat cocoas always have a more subdued
    flavour, and lead to drier cakes, as well as being more heat-
    sensitive. High-fat cocoas are richer in flavour and will
    make a cake lighter as well as moister.

    Among common brands, Hershey's and Ghirardelli are high-fat,
    natural- process. Scharffen Berger is also natural-process,
    high-fat. If you want to pay the big bucks, Michel Cluizel
    "dark" is perhaps the best high-fat, natural process cocoa
    in the world.

    Meanwhile, Droste, Van Houten, Van Leer, and Hershey's
    "European Style" (silver can) are high-fat Dutch process, as
    are Pernigotti and Valrhona.

    Most of the organic cocoas, such as Rapunzel and Ah-
    laska, are low-fat, natural process. Dagoba, probably the
    best organic cocoa, doesn't seem to specify or give any
    sort of hint.

    Guittard makes both natural and Dutch process cocoas, in
    both fat levels. You usually find this in bulk bins. It's
    best to ask to look at the bag to find out what type the
    store stocks because the stockers may not know.

    All these subtleties are exactly that - subtle. Most of the
    time the impact on a cake won't be large, so usually
    experimenting with a different type of cocoa won't be
    disastrous. The effects become more pronounced as the amount
    of cocoa in the recipe increases. In your case, you're
    probably OK to substitute, but why not post the recipe and
    then we can tell you for sure?
    --
    Alex Rast [email hidden] (remove d., .7,
    not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

  7. I'm not the original poster who asked, but I'm still
    thanking all of you for these excellent explanations. I had
    no idea. My last Penzey's order hasn't come yet, but I did
    order Dutch process cocoa. At the time, I was thinking that
    it sounded like better flavor and would substitute for the
    Hershey's that I was about to run out of. The timing of this
    thread is excellent. I'm glad I haven't had to learn the
    hard way that they're not the same product.

    Now. If I want to avoid those maddeningly inconsistent
    results, is there some rule I should follow? I don't have a
    recipe in front of me, but say I was making cookies that
    call for baking powder and natural process cocoa. Would I
    need to add an acid to the recipe like sour cream or vinegar
    to make it work?

    Something comes to mind. I never bake from a mix, but long
    ago I learned a tip in case I ever did. That was to
    substitute white wine for the water when making chocolate
    cake from a mix. Apparently, something acid is very good
    for bringing out the flavor of chocolate. I've noticed
    that many recipes call for cultured buttermilk where
    another (non-chocolate) recipe would call for fresh milk.
    Sour cream, yogurt and vinegar show up in chocolate cake
    recipes. Is it possible that the "add something acid to
    chocolate cake recipes for best flavor" rule is based on
    Dutch process cocoa?

    --Lia

  8. "Alex Rast" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    All these subtleties are exactly that - subtle. Most of
    the time the


    impact

    Quoted message said:

    on a cake won't be large, so usually experimenting with a
    different type


    of

    Quoted message said:

    cocoa won't be disastrous.

    why would it have to be all one or the other for that
    matter? a mix of dutch and regular cocoa may prove the
    optimal thing.

  9. at Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:56:13 GMT in <NcL8c.9698$JO3.16108@attbi_s04>,
    [email hidden] (Julia Altshuler) wrote :

    Quoted message said:

    I'm not the original poster who asked, but I'm still
    thanking all of you for these excellent explanations. I had
    no idea. ...

    Now. If I want to avoid those maddeningly inconsistent
    results, is there some rule I should follow?

    No. If you use a different type of cocoa, there's no way to
    predict what adjustments you'd need to make to make it turn
    out exactly as the recipe specified. But a little
    experimentation would suffice. In other words, you've got
    the right idea. A little lemon juice or sour milk or
    whatever made sense could head you in the right direction.
    Remember, again, though that the impact of using Dutch
    instead of natural cocoa is generally going to be relatively
    small and easily overlooked by people who aren't concerned
    with professional-grade consistency.

    Quoted message said:

    Something comes to mind. I never bake from a mix, but long
    ago I learned a tip in case I ever did. That was to
    substitute white wine for the water when making chocolate
    cake from a mix. ...Is it possible that the "add something
    acid to chocolate cake recipes for best flavor" rule is
    based on Dutch process cocoa?

    Yes, it is. If you look at the ingredient labels for
    virtually all box mixes, as well as most commercial baked
    goods made with cocoa, you'll see that they say cocoa
    (processed with alkali) - i.e. Dutch cocoa. The reason for
    this is that you can get by with lower-quality Dutch cocoa
    and still have acceptable results, because the Dutch process
    masks any flavour defects of the beans, but with lower-
    quality natural-process, any flavour problems of the
    underlying beans have nowhere to hide. So they stand out in
    sharp relief, and the result is very harsh taste (which is a
    warning to you
    - never buy low-quality natural-process cocoa. Always buy
    premium natural- process cocoa). Unfortunately, very few
    commercial companies seem to be interested in anything
    except getting the lowest possible cost, and since they
    can thereby get by with cheaper cocoa, if they use Dutch-
    process, this is what they do.

    The most irritating place this happens is in "chocolate" ice
    cream. I've *never* seen a commercial ice cream (including
    the "super premium" ones) that didn't use Dutch process
    cocoa. And using Dutch cocoa in ice cream is about the worst
    thing you could do. Truthfully, for a great chocolate ice
    cream, you really should use chocolate, not cocoa, but the
    recipes at that point become so fine-tuned in order to get
    good results that it wouldn't be fair to expect a commercial
    company to do it. But if they must use cocoa instead, at
    least they could use natural-process. Cold subdues the
    flavour of chocolate, and with the Dutch process already
    subduing the flavour, the ice cream is off to a bad start.
    To make matters worse, lots of cream and milk also subdue
    the taste of chocolate, and so if you use Dutch process
    cocoa in "chocolate" ice cream you're essentially guaranteed
    to get a very pale, washed-out taste - at best a poor shadow
    of chocolate. There seems to be common knowledge that
    chocolate ice cream isn't very good, but this isn't because
    it couldn't be good, it's because nobody seems to be willing
    to put in the extra effort and expense necessary to actually
    make it good.

    --
    Alex Rast [email hidden] (remove d., .7,
    not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

  10. Alex Rast wrote: Remember, again, though

    Quoted message said:

    that the impact of using Dutch instead of natural cocoa is
    generally going to be relatively small and easily
    overlooked by people who aren't concerned with professional-
    grade consistency.

    At this point in my life, that's me. I'm a home cook now.
    Once again, thanks for all this excellent information. A
    degree from the Culinary Institute, an interest that keeps
    me learning, all these years, and I'd never known about
    these intricacies to chocolate. A whole new world has oepned
    up. I've got to start experimenting.

    --Lia

  11. Alex said:

    Cold subdues the flavour of chocolate, and with the Dutch
    process already subduing the flavour, the ice cream is off
    to a bad start. To make matters worse, lots of cream and
    milk also subdue the taste of chocolate, and so if you use
    Dutch process cocoa in "chocolate" ice cream you're
    essentially guaranteed to get a very pale, washed-out
    taste - at best a poor shadow of chocolate.

    Right. If you want intense chocolate flavor, make chocolate
    sorbet instead of chocolate ice cream. Orwell posted the
    following recipe which works fine for me:

    Bring 2 cups water to a simmer. Whisk in 1 cup cocoa powder
    and 3/4 cup sugar. Chill, then churn.

    Bob

  12. at Sat, 27 Mar 2004 21:07:08 GMT in
    <[email hidden]>, virtualgoth@die_spammer.com
    (Bob) wrote :

    Quoted message said:
    Alex said:

    Cold subdues the flavour of chocolate, and with the Dutch
    process already subduing the flavour, the ice cream is
    off to a bad start. To make matters worse, lots of cream
    and milk also subdue the taste of chocolate, and so if
    you use Dutch process cocoa in "chocolate" ice cream
    you're essentially guaranteed to get a very pale, washed-
    out taste - at best a poor shadow of chocolate.

    Right. If you want intense chocolate flavor, make chocolate
    sorbet instead of chocolate ice cream. Orwell posted the
    following recipe which works fine for me:

    Bring 2 cups water to a simmer. Whisk in 1 cup cocoa powder
    and 3/4 cup sugar. Chill, then churn.


    IMHO this is still really *cocoa* sorbet. Without actual
    chocolate, including the cocoa butter, it doesn't really
    taste like chocolate - it tastes like cocoa, which has a
    distinctly different flavour. If you make your own chocolate
    ice cream at home, you're not at all limited by the
    strictures that govern commercial ice cream manufacturers
    and you can make chocolate ice cream that actually has an
    intense chocolate flavour.

    --
    Alex Rast [email hidden] (remove d., .7,
    not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

  13. "Franfogel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can
    one use regular


    cocoa

    Quoted message said:

    without a problem? I'm not sure whether there is some
    necessary chemical interaction or it's just a matter of
    taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in taste?
    Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking


    questions?

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks!

    Fran

    It helps first to know what the difference is between them.
    After cocoa beans are roasted, they are crushed to separate
    the nibs from the hulls. Next the nibs are ground to a
    thick paste called chocolate liquor, which is cocoa butter,
    plus the solids. When the cocoa butter (most of it anyway)
    is extracted, the solids are pulverized, and that is
    natural cocoa. Because chocolate is naturally acidic and
    somewhat [censored], these flavors are more pronounces in the
    natural cocoa. Dutch process (aka Dutched, or European)
    cocoa takes it a step further. The Dutch process cocoa is
    treated with an alkali to reduce the acidity, making it
    more mild than natural cocoa. It also changes the color.
    "Black" cocoa, like that used for Oreos, is an example of
    extreme "Dutching". You shouldn't interchange the cocoas in
    many recipes because they respond to different leaveners.
    Recipes calling for baking soda will need natural cocoa,
    and recipes calling for baking powder will need dutched
    cocoa. If the recipe depends on the chemical reaction
    between the leavener and the cocoa, it is a good idea to
    use the correct one. If the recipes uses both baking soda
    and baking powder, you can generally use either cocoa with
    good results. That being said, you can generally get away
    with subbing dutched for natural, but it is more difficult
    to do so the other way around.

    kimberly

  14. Alex Rast said:


    IMHO this is still really *cocoa* sorbet. Without actual
    chocolate, including the cocoa butter, it doesn't really
    taste like chocolate - it tastes like cocoa, which has a
    distinctly different flavour. If you make your own
    chocolate ice cream at home, you're not at all limited by
    the strictures that govern commercial ice cream
    manufacturers and you can make chocolate ice cream that
    actually has an intense chocolate flavour.

    And do you have such a recipe? BTW, I always look forward to
    your posts--esp. when it comes to chocolate.
    --
    Jean B.

  15. "Julia Altshuler" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:NcL8c.9698$JO3.16108@attbi_s04... <snip>

    Quoted message said:


    Now. If I want to avoid those maddeningly inconsistent
    results, is there some rule I should follow? I don't have
    a recipe in front of me, but say I was making cookies that
    call for baking powder and natural process cocoa. Would I
    need to add an acid to the recipe like sour cream or
    vinegar to make it work?

    No, because dutched cocoa is used in recipes with baking
    powder. Natural is generally paired with baking soda. In
    general you can sub the dutched cocoa in any recipes that
    use baking powder. Dutched cocoa does not react with baking
    soda, because it is alkalized. However if the leavening
    ingredient is baking soda, you can still use the dutched
    cocoa if there is some other acidic ingredient in the
    recipe, such as vinegar, buttermilk, soured milk, etc.

    Quoted message said:

    Something comes to mind. I never bake from a mix, but long
    ago I learned a tip in case I ever did. That was to
    substitute white wine for the water when making chocolate
    cake from a mix. Apparently, something acid is very good
    for bringing out the flavor of chocolate. I've noticed
    that many recipes call for cultured buttermilk where
    another (non-chocolate) recipe would call for fresh milk.
    Sour cream, yogurt and vinegar show up in chocolate cake
    recipes. Is it possible that the "add something acid to
    chocolate cake recipes for best flavor" rule is based on
    Dutch process cocoa?

    --Lia

    Using acidic ingredients, again, allows for use of baking
    soda as a leavener. Ingredients like buttermilk affect the
    manner in which the cake rises, making for a more tender
    crumb, and a bit finer texture than recipes without it. To
    substitute dutched cocoa for natural, add 1/8 tsp of acid
    (cream of tarter, lemon juice, vinegar) for each 3 Tbsp of
    cocoa. For better chocolate flavor in recipes calling for
    either cocoa, don't sift it with the flour. Instead, warm a
    small amount of water or coffee and combine it with the
    cocoa. Just remember to reduce the liquid in the recipe to
    adjust for the liquid used.

    kimberly

  16. "Dan Levy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Alex Rast" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    All these subtleties are exactly that - subtle. Most of
    the time the


    impact

    Quoted message said:

    on a cake won't be large, so usually experimenting with
    a different type


    of

    Quoted message said:

    cocoa won't be disastrous.

    why would it have to be all one or the other for that
    matter? a mix of


    dutch

    Quoted message said:

    and regular cocoa may prove the optimal thing.

    The reasons for using one or the other are chemical. One
    reacts to leaveners that the other does not. You can make
    adjustments if you are in a pinch, but for the best results,
    use what the recipe calls for.

    kimberly

  17. Jean B. said:
    Alex Rast said:


    IMHO this is still really *cocoa* sorbet. Without actual
    chocolate, including the cocoa butter, it doesn't really
    taste like chocolate - it tastes like cocoa, which has a
    distinctly different flavour. If you make your own
    chocolate ice cream at home, you're not at all limited by
    the strictures that govern commercial ice cream
    manufacturers and you can make chocolate ice cream that
    actually has an intense chocolate flavour.

    And do you have such a recipe? BTW, I always look forward
    to your posts--esp. when it comes to chocolate.

    Here is a very nice chocolate ice cream recipe. It is
    adapted from the recipe book of my Simac Gelataio ice
    cream maker. I use more chocolate that the original calls
    for and bittersweet instead of semisweet. I used Callebaut
    most recently

    Boron

    Custard base 1 cup whole milk
    3/4 cup sugar 4 egg yolks 3 cups heavy cream

    Heat the cream, milk and sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan,
    stirring occasionally until the sugar is dissolved and the
    mixture is hot. Place the egg yolks in a bowl and whisk
    briefly. Still whisking, slowly pour in about 1 cup of the
    hot liquid. When the mixture is smooth, slowly pour it into
    the liquid in the saucepan, whisking constantly. Cook over
    medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens
    slightly and coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Be
    sure not let the mixture boil at any time or will curdle.
    Strain into a clean bowl. .

    4 ounces bittersweet chocolate 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
    1 recipe Custard Ice Cream Base, warm

    Melt the chocolate together in a saucepan over low heat,
    stirring occasionally until smooth. Gradually add some of
    the ice cream base to the chocolate, whisking it frequently
    to keep the chocolate smooth.

    Add the remaining ice cream base and cook over low heat
    until the mixture is well blended. cool thoroughly (I make
    this the night before).

    Pour the mixture into the bowl/dasher of the machine and
    freeze. Makes 1 quart.

  18. "Jean B." <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Alex Rast said:


    IMHO this is still really *cocoa* sorbet. Without actual
    chocolate, including the cocoa butter, it doesn't really
    taste like chocolate - it tastes like cocoa, which has a
    distinctly different flavour. If you make your own
    chocolate ice cream at home, you're not at all limited
    by the strictures that govern commercial ice cream
    manufacturers and you can


    make

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    chocolate ice cream that actually has an intense
    chocolate flavour.

    And do you have such a recipe? BTW, I always look forward
    to your posts--esp. when it comes to chocolate.
    --
    Jean B.

    I know I'm not Alex, but for a truly intense chocolate
    experience, you should try chocolate gelato. One of my
    favorite recipes!

    Death by Chocolate Gelato

    Ingredients: 2 cups fresh whole milk 5 egg yolks
    3/4 cup granulated or superfine baker's sugar 2 tablespoons
    light corn syrup 4 ounces best quality bittersweet
    chocolate, chopped + 2 ounces finely chopped
    4/4 cup unsweetened cocoa, sifted(Dutched will blend easier
    and produce a darker color)

    Instructions: Pour the milk into a medium-sized, heavy
    saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Remove
    from the heat and stir in cocoa powder. (Note: If using
    natural cocoa, mix with a small amount of hot milk first,
    then whisk into the remaining milk.)

    In a metal bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and
    corn syrup until blended. Form a kitchen towel into a ring
    and place the bowl on top to prevent it from sliding around
    while you whisk. Gradually pour the hot milk into the yolk
    mixture, whisking constantly. Return to the same saucepan
    and place over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring slowly and
    continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula, until the
    custard thickens and leaves a path on the back of the
    spatula when a finger is drawn across it, about 6 minutes;
    do not allow to boil.

    Pour the custard through a medium-mesh sieve set over a
    clean metal bowl. Add the chocolate and stir until the
    chocolate melts. Refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour.

    Transfer the custard to an ice cream maker and process
    according to the manufacturer's instructions. In the
    meantime, melt the additional 2 oz chocolate in a cup set in
    a pan of hot water. Allow to cool some, but not set up. When
    gelato is nearly finished, you're going to add the
    chocolate. While ice cream maker is still churning, drizzle
    in the chocolate so that it flakes into the gelato,
    distributing itself throughout.

    For the best texture, serve the gelato immediately. Or
    transfer to a container, cover and freeze until firm, at
    least 4 hours or for up to 3 days. (Note: Longer freezing
    results in a texture more like that of ice cream, which is
    to say, harder.)

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