at Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:16:25 GMT in
<[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
(Franfogel) wrote :
Quoted message said:If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can one
use regular cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure whether
there is some necessary chemical interaction or it's just a
matter of taste. In fact, is there an actual difference in
taste? Anyone know the answer to these earthshaking
questions? Thanks!
Fran
To a certain extent, it depends on the recipe. Dutch
processed cocoa (which has been processed with potassium
carbonate, an alkali), is as you'd expect, more alkaline
than "natural process". Now, some recipes depend on a
reaction between alkaline baking soda and an acid in the
ingredients, and if that acid is supposed to be cocoa, using
natural process is the only way it's going to turn out
correctly. An example, for instance, is Devil's Food cake.
But your recipe calls for Dutch process, so it's not
depending on that sort of reaction. However, if you use
natural process instead, it's possible that the extra
acidity will imbalance a leavening action. You could get
maddeningly inconsistent results, such as extreme cake
doming, uneven texture, large bubbles, stratification (where
the top is very light and airy, while the bottom is dense,
often not even baked through, resulting in a fudgy texture)
and other problems.
As to flavour, there is a considerable difference. Dutch-
process has a milder overall taste with a distinct metallic
twang. Generally it's blander and more uniform. Natural-
process is much more lively and more powerful. It can
deliver a potent bitter kick with some brands, especially if
the amount of cocoa you use is considerable. Natural-process
is also more variable in flavour - it's useful here to try
different cocoas and see which one you like best.
Dutch-process cocoa also makes for a darker colour. This is
deceptive, because it can lead the unsuspecting eater into
the belief that the cake will be stronger in flavour than
the usually redder, lighter colour of a cake (or for that
matter, anything else) made with natural-process, but it
will in fact be less strong for the same amount of cocoa.
Natural-process cocoa is more heat-sensitive, which means
you need to pay closer attention to the actual state of the
cake in the oven and ignore stated baking times. The best
rule is: when the smell of cocoa from the oven becomes
INTENSE and deep, the cake is done.
If the cake has other flavours, different types of cocoa
make a better match. For cream, custard, blueberries,
bananas, white chocolate, and caramel, Dutch-processed
cocoa is better. For strawberries, raspberries, cherries,
blackberries, coffee, cinnamon, and nuts, natural-process
is better. The idea is to choose the cocoa whose flavour
most complements the other flavouring and doesn't overwhelm
it. That's why chocolate cakes with white frosting are
usually made with Dutch-process cocoa: besides the visual
appeal of the dark, almost black cake against the white
frosting, a natural-process cake would overwhelm the
flavour of white frosting.
Finally, cocoas come in 2 fat contents: high-fat (~24%) and
low-fat (~7%) Low-fat cocoas always have a more subdued
flavour, and lead to drier cakes, as well as being more heat-
sensitive. High-fat cocoas are richer in flavour and will
make a cake lighter as well as moister.
Among common brands, Hershey's and Ghirardelli are high-fat,
natural- process. Scharffen Berger is also natural-process,
high-fat. If you want to pay the big bucks, Michel Cluizel
"dark" is perhaps the best high-fat, natural process cocoa
in the world.
Meanwhile, Droste, Van Houten, Van Leer, and Hershey's
"European Style" (silver can) are high-fat Dutch process, as
are Pernigotti and Valrhona.
Most of the organic cocoas, such as Rapunzel and Ah-
laska, are low-fat, natural process. Dagoba, probably the
best organic cocoa, doesn't seem to specify or give any
sort of hint.
Guittard makes both natural and Dutch process cocoas, in
both fat levels. You usually find this in bulk bins. It's
best to ask to look at the bag to find out what type the
store stocks because the stockers may not know.
All these subtleties are exactly that - subtle. Most of the
time the impact on a cake won't be large, so usually
experimenting with a different type of cocoa won't be
disastrous. The effects become more pronounced as the amount
of cocoa in the recipe increases. In your case, you're
probably OK to substitute, but why not post the recipe and
then we can tell you for sure?
--
Alex Rast [email hidden] (remove d., .7,
not, and .NOSPAM to reply)