Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?

Started by (PeteCresswell) · · Last activity · 143 posts · 5,277 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
14 March 2008
Last activity
25 March 2008
Original author
(PeteCresswell)
Posts
143
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
5,277
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 143
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. What light bulbs/LED emitters are you powering with your
    Sturmey-Archer Dynohub?

    Front? Back?

    I did the thing with the bridge rectifier to convert it's output
    to DC - figuring I'd drive some LED emitters to get max light.

    But I'm having problems with the voltage regulator part. I get
    the circuit tuned to put out, say, 1.5 volts with 6 volts coming
    in from a 4-battery test source and then when I put another
    battery in series, the output voltage rises to 2.something.

    Probably something dumb I'm doing in the regulator, and I expect
    to do it right eventually.

    But it got me to wondering how voltage-tolerant light bulbs and
    LEDs are. My assumption going into this has been "not very",
    but I don't have much to base that on.

    Am I doing the voltage regulation piece in vain? Do I really
    need regulation? When I hang a voltmeter on the DC output it
    varies from 3 volts at a walking pace to about 20 volts on a
    downhill.

    So, bottom line, who is using what without toasting a lot of
    bulbs yet getting plenty light?
    --
    PeteCresswell

  2. (PeteCresswell) said:

    What light bulbs/LED emitters are you powering with your
    Sturmey-Archer Dynohub?

    Front?   Back?

    I did the thing with the bridge rectifier to convert it's output
    to DC - figuring I'd drive some LED emitters to get max light.

    But I'm having problems with the voltage regulator part. I get
    the circuit tuned to put out, say, 1.5 volts with 6 volts coming
    in from a 4-battery test source and then when I put another
    battery in series, the output voltage rises to 2.something.

    Probably something dumb I'm doing in the regulator, and I expect
    to do it right eventually.

    But it got me to wondering how voltage-tolerant light bulbs and
    LEDs are.   My assumption going into this has been "not very",
    but I don't have much to base that on.

    Am I doing the voltage regulation piece in vain?  Do I really
    need regulation?   When I hang a voltmeter on the DC output it
    varies from 3 volts at a walking pace to about 20 volts on a
    downhill.

    So, bottom line, who is using what without toasting a lot of
    bulbs yet getting plenty light?
    --
    PeteCresswell

    I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the
    spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake.

    It's about as bright as my old 10W battery-powered Halogen NiteRider
    system.

  3. Per Hank:

    Quoted message said:

    I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the
    spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake.

    Well, I majored in accounting.... and kept two checking accounts
    so I could use one one month and the other the other month -
    letting each run dry so I wouldn't have to deal with balancing a
    checkbook.... Finally graduated, but the fact that I did was no
    credit to the school...

    Having said all that.... Thanks for the terminology. Googling
    "Lumotec" led right to Peter White's page dedicated to generator
    lighting.
    http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp
    --
    PeteCresswell

  4. (PeteCresswell) said:

    Per Hank:

    Quoted message said:

    I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the
    spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake.

    Having said all that.... Thanks for the terminology. Googling
    "Lumotec" led right to Peter White's page dedicated to generator
    lighting.
    http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp

    Bike generators match very well to light emitting
    diodes. Here's a account of some experiments I did which you might
    find, um, illuminating. [ducking & running]
    http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/

    8-)

    bob prohaska

  5. In article <[email hidden]>,

    (PeteCresswell) said:

    Per Hank:

    Quoted message said:

    I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the
    spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake.

    Well, I majored in accounting.... and kept two checking accounts
    so I could use one one month and the other the other month -
    letting each run dry so I wouldn't have to deal with balancing a
    checkbook.... Finally graduated, but the fact that I did was no
    credit to the school...

    How did you know when an account went dry?

    --
    Michael Press

  6. (PeteCresswell) said:

    What light bulbs/LED emitters are you powering with your
    Sturmey-Archer Dynohub?

    Front?   Back?

    I did the thing with the bridge rectifier to convert it's output
    to DC - figuring I'd drive some LED emitters to get max light.

    But I'm having problems with the voltage regulator part. I get
    the circuit tuned to put out, say, 1.5 volts with 6 volts coming
    in from a 4-battery test source and then when I put another
    battery in series, the output voltage rises to 2.something.

    Probably something dumb I'm doing in the regulator, and I expect
    to do it right eventually.

    But it got me to wondering how voltage-tolerant light bulbs and
    LEDs are.   My assumption going into this has been "not very",
    but I don't have much to base that on.

    Am I doing the voltage regulation piece in vain?  Do I really
    need regulation?   When I hang a voltmeter on the DC output it
    varies from 3 volts at a walking pace to about 20 volts on a
    downhill.

    So, bottom line, who is using what without toasting a lot of
    bulbs yet getting plenty light?
    --
    PeteCresswell

    In the tradition established in this thread: I was educated as an
    economist and psychologist and became an artist who occasionally
    publishes books on engineering as well. But I do know a little about
    electronics, in that I've worked for fifteen years or so with the
    kilovolt thermionic tube amplifiers I design and build.

    1. I'm assuming your Sturmey-Archer dynohub is rated the same as every
    other dynohub, which is theoretically 6V 0.5A or 3W. It will in fact
    probably deliver more as it is built to German regulations that demand
    a high percentage of its total output at the equivalent of only 9mph.

    2. The standard assignment of this power is 0.6W to the rear light and
    2.4W to the front light; this assumes that the front light is halogen
    and the rear a red LED, so, if you don't lead any power to the rear,
    you can use a 3W front halogen.

    3. Forget a dynopowered rear light of any kind. Even the best are
    dangerous to your health. The expensive BUMM ones are not watertight
    and the best of the rest, made by Basta (I have one they custom make
    for Gazelle but it is basically just an aesthetic variation of their
    best rear lamp) and by Spanninga (their Ultra; I have that one as
    well) are merely better waterproofed, not more illuminative. I keep
    them on my bikes simply because they came with the bikes. Even the
    best of the dynodriven rear lights are little glimmers that you can
    barely see across the street. None of the dyno-driven rear lights
    flash, because it is streng verboten to have flashing lights in
    Germany and The Netherlands, their prime markets.

    4. Get a battery rear light. If you're rich, get a Dinotte rear light
    (ask Jay; he has one), if not a Cateye TL-LD1100, which is pricey
    enough. There is only one other taillight that is good enough for your
    life and that's the Trek Disco Inferno, which is no longer made. The
    Dinotte and the Cateye 1100 are *bright*, they cast very substantial
    light to the sides as well as the rear, and they flash. Those are the
    minimum requirements for good taillights, and they are the only ones
    who truly meet them. The Cateye 1100 is bright enough to be seen in
    bright sunlight; I use it as a daylight running lamp. It is supposed
    to last 200 hours on a set of 2 AA batteries; I don't know how long
    the batteries last in hours because I use rechargeables and swap them
    out every three or four months or so.

    5. Now you're ready to consider your front light. Your dynohub will
    power halogen or LED lights that will give substantial light.

    6. For a start, if you ride faster than about 10mph, you can fit a
    second halogen light and the dynobub will power both of them. A
    circuit is on the netsite of a guy who comes to RBT, name of Marten I
    think; possibly the firm is called M-Engineering. Peter White also has
    a circuit. You don't need the expensive SON lights; all they are are
    Bisy lights with switches, or BUMM lights with switches. You can buy
    the cheapest BUMM (round) halogen lights and make your own switchbox
    -- I made one with a three-position switch (off, one on, both on) in a
    plastic pill container and sealed it with superglue and fixed it to
    the handbars with a fat rubber band.

    7. Or you might want to considering overvolting a single halogen lamp:
    you get far more light and you won't blow a Philips MR16 or MR11
    longlife unit --anyway, what do you care if you reduce a 3000 mtbf
    lamp to 1500 hours of life if you get nearly twice as much light? The
    trick is that you must be able to get them in the 6V versions to work
    with your dynohub, and the 6V MR16 or MR11 are not easy to find, at
    least not where I live. But, once you have the right voltage lamp,
    they're incredibly easy to work with. I built a lamp with a common
    decorating type of MR16, 12V 20W, by simply soldering wires to the
    pins (you can buy plugs for the pins at any lamp store, electrical
    goods store or hardware store but they're more expensive than the
    lamps themselves which are supermarket items), glueing the lamp into a
    small Roma tomato puree can (it is exactly the right size) and glueing
    the wires into a hole in the back for strain relief; I overvolted it
    with the 14.4V battery from my drill, and fixed it to the handlebars
    with a clamp from a throwaway rear light I bought at the pound shop
    (US "dime store"😉 specifically for this purpose. It made a stunning
    lamp, earning a lot of respect from drivers, and was capable of going
    for a ten mile ride on narrow country lanes with the drill battery.
    (Eventually I bought readymade lights because the package was cheaper
    than buying suitable rechargeable batteries, charger, case and so
    on.)

    8. Or, in LEDs, you can fit as many low consumption LEDs as you can
    power. Each LED drops y volts, so the total must add up to what your
    dynohub produces or must be regulated. You might want to look into
    buckpucks to get the voltage right. Frankly, I wouldn't mess with LEDs
    unless I could get the latest and the best, together with some means
    of focusing the light correctly, and were also willing to sacrifice an
    existing set of lights with hefty, preferably cast ali, shells for
    cooling the LEDs. I looked into LEDs and decided that BUMM's Fly IQ
    (at the expensive end of their range, which is generally overpriced)
    would probably in the end cost less than messing around trying to make
    my own.

    9. If you're cheap or poor, consider this. Plenty of RBT dickswingers
    will now weight in with how fabulous their BUMM Fly IQ is; I have one
    too and it is a good light. However. A couple of halogen 2.4W lamps --
    because that is what I had at the time of the test; 2x 3W lights would
    do better still -- made as much light as the Fly at any speed over a
    crawl and could be better arranged because the two lamps had different
    spreads. The problem with a single light, any single light but
    especially those driven by dynohubs where the output is by definition
    limited, is that it is optimized for some particular patch, and there
    isn't enough power to light up everything. With two lights you can
    light the hole in front of the bike as well as the distance, and by
    angling the two lights carefully either have a smooth spread or
    distribute the available light to suit your preference. Example: I
    ride on narrow lanes with a high crown and a very sudden drop-off into
    the ditch -- I want to see both sides of the lane close to the bike,
    and on the downhill i want to see the curves well ahead; no one dynamo
    light can do both; in fact, even in big battery lights I use two
    separate lamps, each dedicated to one desirable purpose.

    10. Lights are the last bicycle frontier. We hear a lot of talk from
    the technofreakies about how dynamo lights are now so much better than
    they were. But better isn't automatically good enough. The best dyno
    front light is still only nearly as good as a 10W MR11 battery light
    -- whereas I don't feel comfortable on any aspect of lighting (being
    seen, having my space respected, seeing) with anything less than about
    25W divided between two lamps. YMMV, of course.

    11. In summary: I recommend the Cateye TL-LD1100 battery rear light,
    and two cheap BUMM halogen lights driven off the dynamo at the front
    with a homemade switch, supplemented in case of regular commuting or
    any strenuous riding circumstances by a rechargeable battery front
    light set .

    12. A simple test of whether lights are good enough is to go to the
    most dangerous road you ride on and check when drivers first see you
    and how they react. If more than one out of ten drivers don't see you
    and react appropriately until you sweep a light directly through his
    eyes, the lights are not good enough. The most dangerous road I ride
    at night is less than a minute from my house and is ideal for setting
    up an experiment because it is dark and has a hill to define the
    driver's first sight of the bicyclist. I found that with 10W of
    illumination on the bike, drivers 180 yards away did not slow after
    the crest, with 15W some slowed, with 25W almost all slowed, and the
    idiots would slow instantly if I swept that much light through their
    eyes at 100 yards. That's still less than a quarter the light output
    of a car putting two 55W beams on high to warn another driver.

    13. Good strong lights are useful in daylight too. The flashing Cateye
    1100 persuades a lot of people to slow behind me and to give me a
    wider berth than they did before I fitted that light. The key for a
    cyclist is to be seen and thought about. (When Jay has a bit more
    experience with his Electra, he will notice that his higher profile on
    the bigger -- and clearly expensive -- bike earns him more courtesy
    from drivers than was the case on his old folder.)

    14. That applies to front lights as well. Example: Yesterday
    afternoon, while I was riding down a hill on another narrow road with
    parked cars on both sides, a driver coming from the front clearly
    intended, despite the fact that I had right of way, to bull his way
    past me by forcing me to stop and pull off. I switched on my front
    lights as a warning that I had seen him and had no intention of giving
    way, and he immediately had second thoughts, pulling out of my way
    between two parked cars to give me the road. A woman who was driving
    behind me also drove into the supermarket where I stopped. "You
    frightened that pushy son of a [censored] [censored]," she said, laughing
    aloud; it turned out he's her unloved neighbour and people have been
    talking about his foul manners on the hill to the estate where they
    live.

    15. I'm planning on fitting a flashing high-power white or amber LED
    at the front, to operate whenever I'm on the bike including daylight,
    because the flashing Cateye red at the back has been so successful. I
    just haven't worked out yet if it will battery driven or if I should
    let the dynohub drive it. An attractive option would be a pair of good
    LED lights, with additional electronics to flash one, switched to come
    on in steady mode when required.

    16. If you buy one of the German or Dutch rear lights I'm advising
    against, don't bother to get the self-switching one. I have three, and
    I take potluck about when any of them are in manual-on-off or auto-on-
    at-dusk mode because I cannot work out how to switch the modes.
    Furthermore, one of them at least does not meter light reliably and is
    confused by the common sodium type of street lights, and the motion
    sensor has been inoperative from new. (By contrast the light sensor on
    my Cyber Nexus groupset on my Trek Navigator works flawlessly to
    switch on my dynohub-driven front light at dusk and off again at dawn.
    Shimano used to make a light sensor/switch combo that reputedly worked
    well too with dynohubs, but it is a long time since anyone had stock
    of it.)

    HTH.

    Andre Jute
    http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
    "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
    containing vital gems of wisdom"
    Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review

  7. Per Michael Press:

    Quoted message said:

    How did you know when an account went dry?

    I didn't. But alternating checkbooks every month kept the
    amount of basic arithmetic necessary to balance to an absolute
    minimum.
    --
    PeteCresswell

  8. Fri, 14 Mar 2008 21:05:42 -0700 (PDT), Andre Jute:

    Quoted message said:
    (PeteCresswell) said:

    What light bulbs/LED emitters are you powering with your
    Sturmey-Archer Dynohub?

    Front?   Back?

    I did the thing with the bridge rectifier to convert it's output
    to DC - figuring I'd drive some LED emitters to get max light.

    But I'm having problems with the voltage regulator part.

    You don't need a voltage regulator - just a bridge rectifier, a smoothing
    capacitor and up to four high-power LEDs (Luxeon Rebel, Luxeon K2, Cree
    XRE, Seoul P4) in series. One of them as a rear light - all with
    apropriate optics and heat sinks.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Am I doing the voltage regulation piece in vain?  Do I really
    need regulation?

    No. Any regulation means losses. A classic Sturmey-Archer Dynamohub
    delivers 300mA. If you only use LEDs which can cope with 300mA you are
    fine.

    Quoted message said:

    In the tradition established in this thread: I was educated as an
    economist and psychologist and became an artist who occasionally
    publishes books on engineering as well. But I do know a little about
    electronics

    So - why do you answer?

    Quoted message said:

    1. I'm assuming your Sturmey-Archer dynohub is rated the same as every
    other dynohub, which is theoretically 6V 0.5A or 3W.

    This is wrong for the classic Dynahub, which is rated 6V-1.8W.

    Quoted message said:

    3. Forget a dynopowered rear light of any kind.

    Stupid advice.

    Quoted message said:

    Even the best are
    dangerous to your health. The expensive BUMM ones are not watertight

    Millions of BUMM rear lights are used in Germany and the Netherlands.
    Water problems with their rear lights are very rare.

    Problems with empty batteries in any kind of mobile device are more than
    common. Most battery power LED rear lights don't last more than 20 hours
    (some even less than 10h) until light output starts to drop.

    Quoted message said:

    flash, because it is streng verboten to have flashing lights in
    Germany and The Netherlands, their prime markets.

    Flashing lights should be reserved for special unusual situations. With
    everyone around flashing bright - everyone will be anoyed.

    Quoted message said:

    -- I made one with a three-position switch (off, one on, both on) in a
    plastic pill container and sealed it with superglue and fixed it to
    the handbars with a fat rubber band.

    Wasn't it you who prefered watertight lighting devices? "Superglue" will
    degrade soon when confronted with water for longer times.

    Quoted message said:

    7. Or you might want to considering overvolting a single halogen lamp:
    you get far more light and you won't blow a Philips MR16 or MR11

    Houshold lights with rotational symmetric optics are not appropriate for
    vehicle applications. Anyway: There are no "MR16" or "MR11" lamps
    available which are designed to be driven with the 300mA of a Dynohub.
    Something more efficient should be choosen.

    Quoted message said:

    8. Or, in LEDs, you can fit as many low consumption LEDs as you can
    power. Each LED drops y volts, so the total must add up to what your
    dynohub produces or must be regulated. You might want to look into
    buckpucks to get the voltage right.

    Unneccesary for Dynohub use.

    Quoted message said:

    I looked into LEDs and decided that BUMM's Fly IQ

    A wise choice. The Fly IQ should work also with the Dynohub.

    Quoted message said:

    9. If you're cheap or poor, consider this. Plenty of RBT dickswingers
    will now weight in with how fabulous their BUMM Fly IQ is; I have one
    too and it is a good light. However. A couple of halogen 2.4W lamps --
    because that is what I had at the time of the test; 2x 3W lights would
    do better still

    This won't work with a 1.8 Watt SA Dynohub.

    Quoted message said:

    -- made as much light as the Fly at any speed over a
    crawl and could be better arranged because the two lamps had different
    spreads.

    Than - try two Fly IQs. Could be used in parallel (at slow speeds) or in
    series (at higher speeds).

    Quoted message said:

    10. Lights are the last bicycle frontier. We hear a lot of talk from
    the technofreakies about how dynamo lights are now so much better than
    they were. But better isn't automatically good enough. The best dyno
    front light is still only nearly as good as a 10W MR11 battery light
    -- whereas I don't feel comfortable on any aspect of lighting (being
    seen, having my space respected, seeing) with anything less than about
    25W divided between two lamps. YMMV, of course.

    Why can millions of people ride save with dynamo light sets in central
    Europe but you can't? Maybe your behaviour or your risk perception should
    be altered.

    Quoted message said:

    12. A simple test of whether lights are good enough is to go to the
    most dangerous road you ride on and check when drivers first see you
    and how they react. If more than one out of ten drivers don't see you
    and react appropriately until you sweep a light directly through his
    eyes, the lights are not good enough. The most dangerous road I ride
    at night is less than a minute from my house and is ideal for setting
    up an experiment because it is dark and has a hill to define the
    driver's first sight of the bicyclist. I found that with 10W of
    illumination on the bike, drivers 180 yards away did not slow after
    the crest,

    Why should a driver which sees your 10W front light reduce his speed? He
    is on the other lane - isn't he?

    Quoted message said:

    with 15W some slowed, with 25W almost all slowed,

    You are a real hero if you blind uncoming drivers/cyclists with your
    battery lights without a clear cutoff above the horicon...

    Quoted message said:

    and the
    idiots would slow instantly if I swept that much light through their
    eyes at 100 yards. That's still less than a quarter the light output
    of a car putting two 55W beams on high to warn another driver.

    Usually the high beam is dipped when another vehicle comes to sight. How
    do you dip your lights?

    Quoted message said:

    13. Good strong lights are useful in daylight too. The flashing Cateye
    1100 persuades a lot of people to slow behind me and to give me a
    wider berth than they did before I fitted that light. The key for a
    cyclist is to be seen and thought about.

    To be seen mostly belongs on a clear position on the road (read john
    Forsteres Cyclecraft) - not on flashing like a cristmas tree.

    Quoted message said:

    16. If you buy one of the German or Dutch rear lights I'm advising
    against, don't bother to get the self-switching one.

    What should be the adavantage of a "self switching" rear light, when
    everything is driven by the dynamo?

    Andreas

  9. Andre Jute said:
    Andreas Oehler said:


    Millions of BUMM rear lights are used in Germany and the Netherlands.
    Water problems with their rear lights are very rare.

    Of course you're right. But in Germany and The Netherlands (note
    capitalization in English) the dealer and the manufacturer are down
    the road, in the US it is not so easy to get service, in parts of the
    US as we have heard recently conditions in winter are atrocious, and,
    anyway, why buy a light that is inadequate for local conditions
    (regardless of how well it sells at home) if in addition the makers
    cannot be bothered to make it watertight?

    If, as Andreas states, water problems with these lights are very rare,
    then Andre's final question is pointless. Instead of begging the
    question, Andre should provide some evidence that the millions of
    Germans and Dutch using these lights somehow haven't noticed that they
    don't work in their rainy weather. Of course, that might be
    difficult!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Flashing lights should be reserved for special unusual situations. With
    everyone around flashing bright - everyone will be anoyed.

    You haven't put your mind in gear, Andreas. That may apply to the
    Germany and The Netherlands, where there are hordes of cyclists and
    the attitude of drivers is different. It doesn't apply where I live,
    it doesn't apply in the States. The cyclist on the road is minority
    exception here and in the States, not the majority, not even even a
    substantial presence. Think the matter through and you will see the
    sense of a flashing light to announce the exception -- the fact that
    the bicyclist in your words is a "special unusual situation".

    Here in the US, the twinkling or flashing LED taillight has become the
    nighttime signature of a cyclist (or at least, the subset that bothers
    with lights at all). This has nothing much to do with driver
    attitudes. It's simply because the brief flashing action allowed LEDs
    to be bright while reducing battery drain, all at low expense. The
    inexpensive LED units became so popular, they are now universally
    recognized.

    I don't find the flashing or twinkling (depending on the specific
    unit) to be annoying. However, that's primarily because the intensity
    is not out of control. Super-bright lights with bad optics can be
    very annoying and very hard on everyone's nighttime vision, especially
    if they flash.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Houshold lights with rotational symmetric optics are not appropriate for
    vehicle applications.

    Really? You should tell that to the makers of hundreds of types of
    bike lights made with MR11 lamps. You can't tell that to me, and be
    believed, because I have MR11 lamps (made by One Electron) on my bike
    that work a treat, the prototypes I built were MR16 and worked
    brilliantly, and MR16 lamps are found on auxiliary lamps for
    automobiles that I notice are TUV approved. You're talking through the
    back of your neck, Andreas. Perhaps you have a commercial connection
    that inspires these distortions?

    I agree with Andreas: rotationally symmetric beams on a road vehicle
    are, at best, crude and ham-fisted. Their popularity with certain
    unsophisticated consumers doesn't change that fact.

    You simply don't need as much light going up into the sky as you need
    downward onto the road; it's a waste. That should be obvious to
    anyone. To put a finer point on it, it's better to have more
    intensity closer to the horizon, to shine further down the road, and a
    bit less to shine directly in front of the bike. You see an example
    by shining your car's or motorcycle's headlamp at a wall. This optical
    sophistication of a proper road light is a long way from the fuzzy
    ball of light emitted by an MR bulb.

    MR bulbs are designed for pattern-free illumination for overhead
    projectors and for your wife's interior decorations, not for road
    vehicles. No well-designed vehicle lights use them. Advocating them
    for a bicycle - a vehicle whose reason for being is efficiency - is
    silly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why can millions of people ride save with dynamo light sets in central
    Europe but you can't?

    Because their situation is different. There are more cyclists, so
    drivers expect them. I am a lone cyclist in a sea of cars; no one
    expects me.

    The "Omigod, cycling is REALLY dangerous HERE!!!!!!" stuff gets very
    tiresome.

    Most of my night riding is in a city and suburb where I am the lone
    night cyclist. But I've just returned from a vacation to a place
    where cycling (including at night) is _extremely_ popular, and I've
    ridden in places that completely span those extremes.

    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
    am in daytime. (Coincidentally, a friend once told me he rides his
    motorcycle only at night, for that reason.)

    But like most cyclists, I am comfortable enough with my daytime
    visibility. Unlike most cyclists, I've also verified my nighttime
    visibility in various tests and workshops, in various street
    conditions, using other motorists and cyclists as helpers. In all but
    one situation, everyone participating has agreed that bog-standard
    bike lights and reflectors are all that's necessary.

    The exception? Riding in heavy fog in an environment where motorists
    overdrive their headlights. Sadly, you will always have a contingent
    of motorists who think 70 mph on country lanes in the fog is somehow
    reasonable. Thick fog is the only time I actually obey the simple-
    minded advice to "ride as if I'm invisible."

    Quoted message said:

    You're an arrogant son of a [censored], aren't you...

    :-) Unintended irony at its best!

    - Frank Krygowski

  10. Quoted message said:
    Andre Jute said:
    Andreas Oehler said:


    Millions of BUMM rear lights are used in Germany and the Netherlands.
    Water problems with their rear lights are very rare.

    Of course you're right. But in Germany and The Netherlands (note
    capitalization in English) the dealer and the manufacturer are down
    the road, in the US it is not so easy to get service, in parts of the
    US as we have heard recently conditions in winter are atrocious, and,
    anyway, why buy a light that is inadequate for local conditions
    (regardless of how well it sells at home) if in addition the makers
    cannot be bothered to make it watertight?

    If, as Andreas states, water problems with these lights are very rare,
    then Andre's final question is pointless. Instead of begging the
    question, Andre should provide some evidence that the millions of
    Germans and Dutch using these lights somehow haven't noticed that they
    don't work in their rainy weather.

    I didn't say "millions of Germans and Dutch using these light somehow
    haven't noticed that they don't work in rainy weather" -- you're
    trying to put words in my mouth Krygo and then demanding I prove
    something I didn't say. It is primary school debating trick, about the
    level of your mentality.

    Quoted message said:

    Of course, that might be
    difficult!

    Not difficult at all, Krygo: I'll do better than that. Here is
    evidence that an official independent body, the Dutch Cyclists'
    Association
    http://www.fietsersbond.nl/urlsearchresults.asp?itemnumber=3061&viewtype=popup
    found the B&M (BUMM) D'Toplight Plus to have "low watertightness", in
    Dutch "Enige minpunt is de lage waterdichtheid," (Ideomatically
    translated as, "One negative mark is the lack of water resistance."😉

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Flashing lights should be reserved for special unusual situations. With
    everyone around flashing bright - everyone will be anoyed.

    You haven't put your mind in gear, Andreas. That may apply to the
    Germany and The Netherlands, where there are hordes of cyclists and
    the attitude of drivers is different. It doesn't apply where I live,
    it doesn't apply in the States. The cyclist on the road is minority
    exception here and in the States, not the majority, not even even a
    substantial presence. Think the matter through and you will see the
    sense of a flashing light to announce the exception -- the fact that
    the bicyclist in your words is a "special unusual situation".

    Here in the US, the twinkling or flashing LED taillight has become the
    nighttime signature of a cyclist (or at least, the subset that bothers
    with lights at all). This has nothing much to do with driver
    attitudes.

    Who said it did, Krygo?

    Quoted message said:

    It's simply because the brief flashing action allowed LEDs
    to be bright while reducing battery drain, all at low expense. The
    inexpensive LED units became so popular, they are now universally
    recognized.

    Who said we're talking about about cheap blinkies? I'm recommending
    two expensive flashing lights, the Dinotte and the top of the Cateye
    range, the TL-LD1100. What's more, I specifically said that the cheap
    [censored] you're talking about is not good enough. Stop trying to force a
    discussion that is clearly over your head into something you can
    understand.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't find the flashing or twinkling (depending on the specific
    unit) to be annoying. However, that's primarily because the intensity
    is not out of control. Super-bright lights with bad optics can be
    very annoying and very hard on everyone's nighttime vision, especially
    if they flash.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Houshold lights with rotational symmetric optics are not appropriate for
    vehicle applications.

    Really? You should tell that to the makers of hundreds of types of
    bike lights made with MR11 lamps. You can't tell that to me, and be
    believed, because I have MR11 lamps (made by One Electron) on my bike
    that work a treat, the prototypes I built were MR16 and worked
    brilliantly, and MR16 lamps are found on auxiliary lamps for
    automobiles that I notice are TUV approved. You're talking through the
    back of your neck, Andreas. Perhaps you have a commercial connection
    that inspires these distortions?

    I agree with Andreas: rotationally symmetric beams on a road vehicle
    are, at best, crude and ham-fisted. Their popularity with certain
    unsophisticated consumers doesn't change that fact.

    Yawn. True to your dishonest form, Krygowski, you've cut away the part
    of my letter which makes clear that what Andreas is doing is saying:
    These lights made by BUMM are good enough for Germans, so they should
    be good enough for you, and me saying, [censored].

    Furthermore, if the legislators see fit to license lights, and I can
    see they deliver more light than other lights, why should I, or anyone
    else, not have the better lights rather than risk our lives on the
    lesser output of lights a couple of internet clowns, one of them with
    suspect commercial connections, want to push because they are on a
    crusade against battery lights?

    Quoted message said:

    You simply don't need as much light going up into the sky as you need
    downward onto the road; it's a waste. That should be obvious to
    anyone.

    Another straw man argument. Remember, I've built those lights, and
    used bought ones? I know that you point them downwards and most of the
    light goes where it is wanted, in an oval on the road, with some
    spilling onto the close hedge beside the road for orientation.
    Whatever you're talking about, Krygo, might go down well with your
    claque of the thicker apprentices but not with anyone who has
    experience or his brain in gear and the faintest whiff of science in
    his education.

    Quoted message said:

    To put a finer point on it, it's better to have more
    intensity closer to the horizon, to shine further down the road, and a
    bit less to shine directly in front of the bike.

    I want both and I get it, and enough of it with battery lights. The
    point about the best and most expensive of those dynohub lights is
    that none of them put out enough light. Let me repeat that: there is
    no dynohub light that puts out enough light for any but the most
    undemanding circumstances, like riding on the sidewalk or perhaps on
    quiet, lit streets (where streetlight show you the gutter, because
    most of those mickey mouse dynohub lights have a big hole in front of
    the bike and zero spread of light close to the bike).

    Quoted message said:

    You see an example
    by shining your car's or motorcycle's headlamp at a wall.

    I don't have a car or a motorcycle, Krygo, and haven't since 1992. I'm
    a responsible world citizen. Are you?

    Quoted message said:

    This optical
    sophistication of a proper road light is a long way from the fuzzy
    ball of light emitted by an MR bulb.

    Really? On the best European cars perhaps. My memory of American cars
    is that they have useless lights.

    In any event, what is the relevance of car lights to bicycle lights?
    This is just so much smoke. The fact remains that dynohub lamps do not
    put out as much light as a suitable battery light.

    And MR lamps do not emit fuzzy light when you get into the wattages I
    use; you must have cheaped out with the miserable low-wattage MR
    lamps, Krygo, or skimped on overvolting them, or just not understood
    what you were dealing with. Or, even more despicably, you're talking
    [censored] without any experience at all. With which of these depressing
    alternatives are you wasting my time this time?

    Quoted message said:

    MR bulbs are designed for pattern-free illumination for overhead
    projectors and for your wife's interior decorations, not for road
    vehicles. No well-designed vehicle lights use them.

    You cut away the bit where I said I saw MRxx auxiliary lights
    certified by the TUV, the strictest of all the licensing bodies, for
    use in Germany. Whether "well designed vehicles use them", meaning
    cars, is an irrelevance, a smoke screen. What is relevant is that MRxx
    put more light on the road than a Fly IQ, which is currently the best
    of the dynohub lights.

    And, of course, battery lights put the same amount of light on the
    road when you're going slowly or standing still for however long.
    Dynohub lights dim when you slow or die when you stop, or if fitted
    with a capacitor burn for some short period of time.

    Quoted message said:

    Advocating them
    for a bicycle - a vehicle whose reason for being is efficiency - is
    silly.

    Says Frank Krygowski. That's a recommendation to do the opposite of
    whatever Krygo recommends -- that way you can't go wrong.

    Quoted message said:

    a bicycle - a vehicle whose reason for being is efficiency

    [censored]. The raison d'etre of bicycle is transport. What the owner uses
    it for is at his own option. It is only the fascist racing faction of
    cyclists who think every bicycle should be about efficiency. Thank God
    they're in the minority or cycling might become really unpleasant.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why can millions of people ride save with dynamo light sets in central
    Europe but you can't?

    Because their situation is different. There are more cyclists, so
    drivers expect them. I am a lone cyclist in a sea of cars; no one
    expects me.

    The "Omigod, cycling is REALLY dangerous HERE!!!!!!" stuff gets very
    tiresome.

    Where did you hear "Omigod, cycling is REALLY dangerous HERE!!!!!!",
    [censored]? Not from me you didn't. Again, you, Frank Krygowski, have
    dishonestly cut away the context from my previous post so that you can
    make a point totally at variance with what I actually said. Your
    methods are puerile, Krygo; trying to make me discuss something I
    neither said nor intended is a contemptibly transparent debating
    trick. Shove it up your ass, sonny.

    Quoted message said:

    Most of my night riding is in a city and suburb where I am the lone
    night cyclist. But I've just returned from a vacation to a place
    where cycling (including at night) is _extremely_ popular, and I've
    ridden in places that completely span those extremes.

    Congratulations. So what?

    Quoted message said:

    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
    am in daytime. (Coincidentally, a friend once told me he rides his
    motorcycle only at night, for that reason.)

    This is getting more and more ridiculous. Soon, dear old Krygo, you
    will tell us that you feel quite safe at the new moon with a totally
    dark bicycle, which of course you ride helmetless and stark naked.
    Pull the other-- er, well, don't pull anything, you'll get that wrong
    too, and embarrass us all.

    Quoted message said:

    But like most cyclists, I am comfortable enough with my daytime
    visibility.

    "Like most cyclists" is a statement that requires proof. And even when
    you prove it, why should that have the slightest influence on me, or
    anyone else who believes that it is worth going the extra half inch?
    Since when is "the lowest common denominator approves" a
    recommendation, or even good logic: of course the lowest common
    denominator approves; that is how it became the lowest common
    denominator.

    As for your personal opinion, you have zero credibility with me,
    Krygo. You're an idiot and a fool, and an opinionated fool at that,
    which makes you dangerous to yourself and to anyone who listens to
    you.

    Quoted message said:

    Unlike most cyclists, I've also verified my nighttime
    visibility in various tests and workshops, in various street
    conditions, using other motorists and cyclists as helpers.

    You mean they were looking for you? That invalidates the test right
    there. Why are you wasting my time with this [censored], Krygo? If anyone
    else put up that tacky, hollow argument, the better educated guys in
    your gang would be all over him, so why do you think you'll get away
    with it.

    Quoted message said:

    In all but
    one situation, everyone participating has agreed that bog-standard
    bike lights and reflectors are all that's necessary.

    You must clearly value your life very little, Krygowski. Perhaps
    you're right; ask your wife. You and Andreas, who wants me to lower
    the value I put on my life, should get together. You'd make a fine
    pair of lowballers.

    Quoted message said:

    The exception? Riding in heavy fog in an environment where motorists
    overdrive their headlights. Sadly, you will always have a contingent
    of motorists who think 70 mph on country lanes in the fog is somehow
    reasonable. Thick fog is the only time I actually obey the simple-
    minded advice to "ride as if I'm invisible."

    Quoted message said:

    You're an arrogant son of a [censored], aren't you...

    :-) Unintended irony at its best!

    Once again this poor dumb wannabe polemicist Frank Krygowski has cut
    away my text and context to make his own utterly irrelevant hostile
    point.

    Here's what really went down:

    Andre Jute said:

    Because their situation [in Germany and The Netherlands} is different.
    There are more cyclists, so
    drivers expect them. I am a lone cyclist in a sea of cars; no one
    expects me.

    Andreas Oehler replied impertinently:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Maybe your behaviour or your risk perception should
    be altered.

    Andre Jute said:

    You're an arrogant son of a [censored], aren't you, telling me to stay off
    the roads and lower the value I put on my life and limb.

    But the public laughingstock Frank Krygowski thinks that no one will
    notice he hacked the context about to make his stupid little joke, and
    then like a bad comedian added an unnecessary smiley and exclamation
    mark to tell the whole world it is a joke, just in case they don't get
    it:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You're an arrogant son of a [censored], aren't you...

    :-) Unintended irony at its best!

    No, Krygo, you missed the point, as you always do: a gentleman never
    offends anyone unintentionally. (That sentence is ironical too, though
    not in a way you will ever understand, dear Krygo.) Not just one irony
    but layers of ironies were intended, and delivered, and understood
    where it matters, which isn't with you. So why don't you, dear Krygo,
    butt out before you become the butt of the joke.

    Quoted message said:

    - Frank Krygowski

    Andre Jute
    Who doesn't make unintentional jokes

  11. On Mar 15, 7:24 pm, Andre Jute <[email hidden]> wrote yet another
    of his ever-expanding tirades of insults. In the interest of brevity,
    I'll respond to only a few points:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here in the US, the twinkling or flashing LED taillight has become the
    nighttime signature of a cyclist (or at least, the subset that bothers
    with lights at all). This has nothing much to do with driver
    attitudes.

    Who said it did, Krygo?

    It was silly of you to challenge me on that paragraph, Andre. The
    point of the paragraph was that I disagreed with Andreas on the issue
    of flashing lights. You should have simply agreed with me.
    Unfortunately, your bile overwhelmed you again. Calm down.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I agree with Andreas: rotationally symmetric beams on a road vehicle
    are, at best, crude and ham-fisted. Their popularity with certain
    unsophisticated consumers doesn't change that fact.

    Yawn. True to your dishonest form, Krygowski, you've cut away the part
    of my letter which makes clear that what Andreas is doing is saying:
    These lights made by BUMM are good enough for Germans, so they should
    be good enough for you, and me saying, [censored].

    I'm sorry if my trimming for brevity confuses you. I thought there
    was only one poster here who couldn't understand that standard
    practice.

    However, while you have complained about others putting words in your
    mouth, you seem to be doing the same regarding Andreas. His question
    and suggestion were much more gentle than your distorted claim. The
    original was:

    "Why can millions of people ride [safely] with dynamo light sets in
    central
    Europe but you can't? Maybe your behaviour or your risk perception
    should
    be altered." [I think I've properly corrected his original "save",
    in brackets.]

    And indeed, it is a valid question. It's not uncommon for people in a
    non-bicycling culture to have exaggerated ideas of bicycling danger,
    and to contend that only extraordinary equipment can make one safe.
    Perhaps you do need to revise your cycling behavior, if it's really
    risky, or revise your perceptions, if they're really so fearful. It's
    not that bad out there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You simply don't need as much light going up into the sky as you need
    downward onto the road; it's a waste. That should be obvious to
    anyone.

    Another straw man argument. Remember, I've built those lights, and
    used bought ones?

    As have I. And I've ridden with others who used them. And we've
    examined their strengths and weaknesses. A workshop on bike lights
    can be very educational.

    Quoted message said:

    I know that you point them downwards and most of the
    light goes where it is wanted, in an oval on the road, with some
    spilling onto the close hedge beside the road for orientation.

    Here's the problem with that strategy: The symmetrical beam of a non-
    road-specific light (like an MR-16 or MR-11) is brightest at its
    center. If you tilt the lamp to prevent shooting lumens at the stars,
    you've got an overly bright patch of pavement close to the front of
    your bike. This affects your night vision, in effect burning out much
    of your peripheral vision. Furthermore, the beam doesn't penetrate
    very far down the road, because the part that's left pointed down the
    road is relatively dim.

    Again, for road work you need moderate beam intensity closer to the
    vehicle, since the distances, angles and visual requirements are all
    not very extreme; you can make use of higher beam intensity close to
    the horizon, to allow you to see further down the road; and you need
    much, much less beam intensity above the horizon, since the light
    hitting drivers' eyes comes direct from your lamp. It's very visible
    to them without requiring much power.

    Some trials with different equipment, with the help of some friends,
    should make all that clear.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    To put a finer point on it, it's better to have more
    intensity closer to the horizon, to shine further down the road, and a
    bit less to shine directly in front of the bike.

    I want both and I get it, and enough of it with battery lights.

    And that's fine. I prefer generator lights because there is no hassle
    about tending or replacing or charging or remembering batteries. My
    bike is always ready to ride at night, at a moment's notice. I also
    find the reliability is significantly higher in other ways.

    However, I've long been amazed that optics are excellent in most
    generator headlamps; optics are very good to excellent in many low-end
    bike headlamps powered by disposable cells; but optics are almost
    always junk in the pricey rechargeable bike lights. The design
    philosophy seems to be "We got us a good battery, so it doesn't matter
    where the light goes; we'll just pump out a lot of it." It's a
    caveman approach to design.

    If I were to go back to battery powered lights, I think I'd still use
    a generator headlamp and power it with a battery. (In fact, I have
    one friend who has used that strategy.)

    Quoted message said:

    The point about the best and most expensive of those dynohub lights is
    that none of them put out enough light. Let me repeat that: there is
    no dynohub light that puts out enough light for any but the most
    undemanding circumstances, like riding on the sidewalk or perhaps on
    quiet, lit streets

    Absolutely false. Nearly half the American RUSA contingent in the
    last Paris-Brest-Paris competition used dynamo lights. And a post-
    ride survey showed they were more satisfied with their lights than the
    battery-powered group. See http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/BQPBPEquipsurvey.pdf

    I think most would agree Paris-Brest-Paris is a bit more extreme than
    sidewalk riding.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You see an example
    by shining your car's or motorcycle's headlamp at a wall.

    I don't have a car or a motorcycle, Krygo, and haven't since 1992. I'm
    a responsible world citizen. Are you?

    :-) Were you a "responsible world citizen" when you drove your car 70
    mph on a very narrow country lane, as you bragged? Or did the
    authorities decide to make a responsible citizen out of you by
    removing your operator's license for that offense?

    In any case, you must be on speaking terms with _someone_ who owns a
    modern car or motorcycle. Ask them to shine the headlights at a wall
    for you. Note the efficient shape of the beam, the cutoff above the
    horizon, the brighter intensity near the horizon.

    Quoted message said:

    In any event, what is the relevance of car lights to bicycle lights?

    The relevance is that car lights, and motorcycle lights, and even
    moped and scooter lights, are designed to illuminate the road
    efficiently without blinding other road users. Good quality bike
    lights should do the same. In fact, given the practical necessity for
    efficiency on a bike, they should pay even more attention to optics.
    Pumping out unfocused mega-lumens (at cost of battery size, weight and
    life) is like using 1/8" diameter spokes made of mild steel. It's
    primitive and inefficient.

    Quoted message said:

    ...you're talking [censored] ...

    [censored].

    ...[censored]...

    ... Shove it up your ass, sonny.

    You're an idiot and a fool...

    ... [censored]...

    ... poor dumb wannabe

    ... son of a [censored], aren't you...

    ... butt out...

    Andre, many of use know your style is to try to "win" by being
    unbearably obnoxious. When we stop responding to you, as I will now,
    it's not because your intellect has triumphed. It's because your
    verbal diarrhea is too ugly to bother with.

    - Frank Krygowski

  12. On Mar 15, 6:48 pm, franky krygowski shatters another irony meter:

    < Krygo babble snipped for brevity>

    (Written to Andre Jute)

    Quoted message said:

    When we stop responding to you, as I will now,
    it's not because your intellect has triumphed.  It's because your
    verbal diarrhea is too ugly to bother with.

    Good Gawd, Franky!!! You really are totally lacking even a semblance
    of self-awareness, aren't you?

  13. Quoted message said:

    When we stop responding to you, as I will now,
    it's not because your intellect has triumphed. It's because your
    verbal diarrhea is too ugly to bother with.

    Run, rabbit, run.

    Below is Krygo's post in full for students of irony. One has to wonder
    how long since there has been a mirror in Krygo's house: ten years
    since he split the last one? I don't suppose Krygo can even spell
    "intellectual dishonesty".

    Andre Jute
    Darwin's little helper

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 15, 7:24 pm, Andre Jute <[email hidden]> wrote yet another
    of his ever-expanding tirades of insults.  In the interest of brevity,
    I'll respond to only a few points:

    Quoted message said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here in the US, the twinkling or flashing LED taillight has become the
    nighttime signature of a cyclist (or at least, the subset that bothers
    with lights at all).  This has nothing much to do with driver
    attitudes.

    Quoted message said:

    Who said it did, Krygo?

    It was silly of you to challenge me on that paragraph, Andre.  The
    point of the paragraph was that I disagreed with Andreas on the issue
    of flashing lights.  You should have simply agreed with me.
    Unfortunately, your bile overwhelmed you again.  Calm down.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I agree with Andreas: rotationally symmetric beams on a road vehicle
    are, at best, crude and ham-fisted.  Their popularity with certain
    unsophisticated consumers doesn't change that fact.

    Quoted message said:

    Yawn. True to your dishonest form, Krygowski, you've cut away the part
    of my letter which makes clear that what Andreas is doing is saying:
    These lights made by BUMM are good enough for Germans, so they should
    be good enough for you, and me saying, [censored].

    I'm sorry if my trimming for brevity confuses you.  I thought there
    was only one poster here who couldn't understand that standard
    practice.

    However, while you have complained about others putting words in your
    mouth, you seem to be doing the same regarding Andreas.  His question
    and suggestion were much more gentle than your distorted claim.  The
    original was:

    "Why can millions of people ride [safely] with dynamo light sets in
    central
    Europe but you can't? Maybe your behaviour or your risk perception
    should
    be altered."    [I think I've properly corrected his original "save",
    in brackets.]

    And indeed, it is a valid question.  It's not uncommon for people in a
    non-bicycling culture to have exaggerated ideas of bicycling danger,
    and to contend that only extraordinary equipment can make one safe.
    Perhaps you do need to revise your cycling behavior,  if it's really
    risky, or revise your perceptions, if they're really so fearful.  It's
    not that bad out there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You simply don't need as much light going up into the sky as you need
    downward onto the road; it's a waste.  That should be obvious to
    anyone.

    Quoted message said:

    Another straw man argument. Remember, I've built those lights, and
    used bought ones?

    As have I.  And I've ridden with others who used them.  And we've
    examined their strengths and weaknesses.  A workshop on bike lights
    can be very educational.

    Quoted message said:

    I know that you point them downwards and most of the
    light goes where it is wanted, in an oval on the road, with some
    spilling onto the close hedge beside the road for orientation.

    Here's the problem with that strategy:  The symmetrical beam of a non-
    road-specific light (like an MR-16 or MR-11) is brightest at its
    center.  If you tilt the lamp to prevent shooting lumens at the stars,
    you've got an overly bright patch of pavement close to the front of
    your bike.  This affects your night vision, in effect burning out much
    of your peripheral vision.  Furthermore, the beam doesn't penetrate
    very far down the road, because the part that's left pointed down the
    road is relatively dim.

    Again, for road work you need moderate beam intensity closer to the
    vehicle, since the distances, angles and visual requirements are all
    not very extreme; you can make use of higher beam intensity close to
    the horizon, to allow you to see further down the road; and you need
    much, much less beam intensity above the horizon, since the light
    hitting drivers' eyes comes direct from your lamp.  It's very visible
    to them without requiring much power.

    Some trials with different equipment, with the help of some friends,
    should make all that clear.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    To put a finer point on it, it's better to have more
    intensity closer to the horizon, to shine further down the road, and a
    bit less to shine directly in front of the bike.

    Quoted message said:

    I want both and I get it, and enough of it with battery lights.

    And that's fine.  I prefer generator lights because there is no hassle
    about tending or replacing or charging or remembering batteries.  My
    bike is always ready to ride at night, at a moment's notice.  I also
    find the reliability is significantly higher in other ways.

    However, I've long been amazed that optics are excellent in most
    generator headlamps; optics are very good to excellent in many low-end
    bike headlamps powered by disposable cells; but optics are almost
    always junk in the pricey rechargeable bike lights.  The design
    philosophy seems to be "We got us a good battery, so it doesn't matter
    where the light goes; we'll just pump out a lot of it."  It's a
    caveman approach to design.

    If I were to go back to battery powered lights, I think I'd still use
    a generator headlamp and power it with a battery.  (In fact, I have
    one friend who has used that strategy.)

    Quoted message said:

    The point about the best and most expensive of those dynohub lights is
    that none of them put out enough light. Let me repeat that: there is
    no dynohub light that puts out enough light for any but the most
    undemanding circumstances, like riding on the sidewalk or perhaps on
    quiet, lit streets

    Absolutely false.  Nearly half the American RUSA contingent in the
    last Paris-Brest-Paris competition used dynamo lights.  And a post-
    ride survey showed they were more satisfied with their lights than the
    battery-powered group.  Seehttp://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/BQPBPEquipsurvey.pdf

    I think most would agree Paris-Brest-Paris is a bit more extreme than
    sidewalk riding.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You see an example
    by shining your car's or motorcycle's headlamp at a wall.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't have a car or a motorcycle, Krygo, and haven't since 1992. I'm
    a responsible world citizen. Are you?

    :-)  Were you a "responsible world citizen" when you drove your car 70
    mph on a very narrow country lane, as you bragged?  Or did the
    authorities decide to make a responsible citizen out of you by
    removing your operator's license for that offense?

    In any case, you must be on speaking terms with _someone_ who owns a
    modern car or motorcycle.  Ask them to shine the headlights at a wall
    for you.  Note the efficient shape of the beam, the cutoff above the
    horizon, the brighter intensity near the horizon.

    Quoted message said:

    In any event, what is the relevance of car lights to bicycle lights?

    The relevance is that car lights, and motorcycle lights, and even
    moped and scooter lights, are designed to illuminate the road
    efficiently without blinding other road users.  Good quality bike
    lights should do the same.  In fact, given the practical necessity for
    efficiency on a bike, they should pay even more attention to optics.
    Pumping out unfocused mega-lumens (at cost of battery size, weight and
    life) is like using 1/8" diameter spokes made of mild steel.  It's
    primitive and inefficient.

    Quoted message said:

    ...you're talking [censored] ...

    Quoted message said:

    [censored].

    Quoted message said:

    ...[censored]...

    Quoted message said:

    ... Shove it up your ass, sonny.

    Quoted message said:

    You're an idiot and a fool...

    Quoted message said:

    ... [censored]...

    Quoted message said:

    ... poor dumb wannabe

    Quoted message said:

    ... son of a [censored], aren't you...

    Quoted message said:

    ... butt out...

    Andre, many of use know your style is to try to "win" by being
    unbearably obnoxious.  When we stop responding to you, as I will now,
    it's not because your intellect has triumphed.  It's because your
    verbal diarrhea is too ugly to bother with.

    - Frank Krygowski

  14. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 15, 7:24 pm, Andre Jute <[email hidden]> wrote yet another
    of his ever-expanding tirades of insults. In the interest of
    brevity, I'll respond to only a few points:

    A good idea.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The point about the best and most expensive of those dynohub lights
    is that none of them put out enough light. Let me repeat that:
    there is no dynohub light that puts out enough light for any but
    the most undemanding circumstances, like riding on the sidewalk or
    perhaps on quiet, lit streets

    I see you suffer from the same misunderstanding as another poster here.

    Quoted message said:

    Absolutely false. Nearly half the American RUSA contingent in the
    last Paris-Brest-Paris competition used dynamo lights. And a post-
    ride survey showed they were more satisfied with their lights than
    the battery-powered group. See
    http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/BQPBPEquipsurvey.pdf

    I think most would agree Paris-Brest-Paris is a bit more extreme than
    sidewalk riding.

    It is, and Andre is just plain wrong yet again.

  15. Quoted message said:


    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
    am in daytime.

    WTF?!?

  16. On Sat, 15 Mar 2008 23:19:47 -0700 (PDT), Dan O <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
    am in daytime.

    WTF?!?

    Dear Dan,

    I expect that Frank's point is that at night even a small light is
    noticeable at a much greater distance than a larger ordinary object in
    daylight.

    Your computer screen probably has a small green power light that you
    scarcely notice when the room is lit. Turn the lights off and notice
    how visible even that tiny light becomes.

    The contrast between a light and the dark background catches the eye.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  17. Per [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    And that's fine. I prefer generator lights because there is no hassle
    about tending or replacing or charging or remembering batteries. My
    bike is always ready to ride at night, at a moment's notice. I also
    find the reliability is significantly higher in other ways.

    What are you currently using for headlight/tail light?

    Also, is it just tolerance for varying voltages that makes lights
    electrically generator-specific?

    --
    PeteCresswell

  18. (PeteCresswell) said:

    Per [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    And that's fine. I prefer generator lights because there is no hassle
    about tending or replacing or charging or remembering batteries. My
    bike is always ready to ride at night, at a moment's notice. I also
    find the reliability is significantly higher in other ways.

    What are you currently using for headlight/tail light?

    Let's see: On the two bikes I use most often at night, I've got Basta
    Ellipsoid headlamps. Another bike has a Union headlamp. (I don't know
    the model number - it's about 2.5" diameter, with an unusually convex
    front lens.) My wife's bike has a Soubitez headlamp. There's also
    the headlamp from a FER 2002 generator, and there's a tiny (maybe 1.5"
    dia?) headlamp that's part of the Union "block" generator on a seldom-
    used folding bike. These lights move around a bit from bike to bike,
    depending on season, vacation trips, etc., and I've got others stored
    in a drawer.

    All these have halogen bulbs. Most are 2.4 watt, but overdriven by
    virtue of having no generator taillight. One has a 3 watt bulb, but I
    don't see much difference.

    I like best the optics of that old Soubitez lamp, followed by the FER,
    but I ride much more with the Bastas. The Union lamps are, I think,
    not as good optically.

    Usually I rely on LED blinky taillights powered by AA or AAA cells,
    but my commuting bike also has a generator taillight. This too was
    chosen for optics (improved over a previous tiny no-lens version), but
    I can't tell you the brand. All bikes have various reflectors, but
    nothing unusual.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, is it just tolerance for varying voltages that makes lights
    electrically generator-specific?

    I don't think that has much to do with it at all. Generator headlamps
    are (almost always) separate units from the power source. If you use
    a battery to pump 6 volts DC into a generator headlamp, it works just
    fine, IME. But there are a couple uncertainties.

    First, I've noticed that many of my 6V 2.4W halogen generator bulbs
    have microscopic AC waveform icons stamped into the threaded base.
    (Recall, bike generators are AC devices.) I don't know what could be
    special about the bulbs for AC. Perhaps Andreas could tell us? But
    again, I know they work with AC or DC. (Light Emitting Diodes are a
    different matter, of course.)

    Second uncertainty: If you decide to use a battery to power the good
    optics of a generator lamp, you may be tempted to put in a more
    powerful bulb. If you do, some lamps may have their plastic
    reflectors damaged by the extra heat. It would depend, I suppose, on
    the particular plastic they used for the reflector. I had that
    problem way back when I hot rodded some non-generator handlebar-
    mounted lamps. In that case, I cured it by using some silicone rubber
    as thermal insulation between the bulb base and the reflector, taking
    care to get the filament positioned properly at the focal point.

    I've got an ancient Union generator headlamp with a metal reflector.
    If I were to play around with battery power again, I'd use it.

    - Frank Krygowski

  19. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Dan O said:
    Quoted message said:


    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night
    than I am in daytime.

    WTF?!?

    WTF do you mean "WTF?!?" A bicyclist at night with a headlight and
    taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. Way
    more contrast between a bright light and a dark background.

  20. Quoted message said:

    On Sat, 15 Mar 2008 23:19:47 -0700 (PDT), Dan O <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
    cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous.  I've satisfied myself
    literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
    am in daytime.

    Quoted message said:

    WTF?!?

    Dear Dan,

    I expect that Frank's point is that at night even a small light is
    noticeable at a much greater distance than a larger ordinary object in
    daylight.

    [censored]. A bicyclist on a proper (Dutch city) bike is a block over six
    feet high by two feet wide right out in the middle of the lane. That's
    as high as a Range Rover (actually, from my bike I look *down* on
    Range Rovers) and a third as wide, visible from a very long way in
    daylight. A twee little light in the dark is not visible at the same
    distance and, in any event, at night mere visibility is worthless: the
    light must be noticed and serve as identification and warning within a
    reasonable stopping distance for a car. The best Dutch and German
    taillights don't do that. These notes assume total darkness. The
    position gets much worse in the presence of streetlights and store
    lights and infinitely worse in the presence of moving car lights. Thus
    the necessity for a strong light, for substantial light cast to the
    side, for a flashing light.

    Quoted message said:

    Your computer screen probably has a small green power light that you
    scarcely notice when the room is lit. Turn the lights off and notice
    how visible even that tiny light becomes.

    Intelligent people don't look for some twee little light to tell if
    their computer is switched on. They can see the huge, throbbing screen
    is shining. That is what first attracts the eyes. There should be a
    lesson even for you, dear Carl, in your own example.

    Quoted message said:

    The contrast between a light and the dark background catches the eye.

    Of course it does, if the light is strong enough to reach the
    necessary distance, and still more if the light flashes. The question
    is whether the lights Andreas was defending, which are Dutch and
    German taillights of the BUMM type (which is the point on which Krygo
    jumped in), reach far enough for a driver to notice and if necessary
    to stop from a reasonable speed, and I say that they don't, even under
    the ideal condition of total darkness. In lit areas and in traffic
    they will be noticed only by drivers expecting cyclists and
    consciously looking out for them. Those conditions don't apply where
    the majority of RBTers ride. The advice given by the Krygo-Fogel gang
    is therefore dangerous to life and limb.

    Quoted message said:

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    So nice to hear from you, dear Carl. But a word to wise, eh? If you
    actually intend a comedy act, get a new scriptwriter. Right now you're
    making ludicrous claims and being laughed out of court.

    Andre Jute
    Author of "The True Thoughts of Chairman Mao"

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.