Johnny Sunset said:Ken,
Since you mention aerodynamic drag on longer rides as a deficiency of
riding an upright bicycle with higher handlebars, it is my opinion that
a CLWB may not be the best bicycle for you. CLWB bikes with the
relatively high seat, low BB and upright seating position are not that
aerodynamic, and may be no better than riding a drop bar upright "on
the hoods".
Well I think my diamond frame rides even higher, more upright than a
road bike "on the hoods".
Quoted message said:I am not suggesting that you need to get a lowracer, highracer or fully
faired bike, but a SWB bike with a reasonably high BB and seat recline
will do much better in windy conditions. A LWB bicycle with a front
fairing can also perform well.
Well I know that some swb bikes have a lower frontage area, due to
higher bb and more reclined seat. I experimented with a home-brew swb
last winter. Due to my lack of knowledge of frame geometry it was a bit
unstable, plus heavy steel frame made it weight in at over 40+pounds,
and I had gearing problems as well. But OTOH I did get to ride it enough
to appreciate the swb layout, which is my I inquired in an earlier post
about swb bikes for beginners. I don't know much about fairings,except
that I have read that they improve aerodynamic efficiency.
Quoted message said:The used market may be the better alternative. Bikes such as the RANS
Rocket and Vision R-40 (1999 and later R-40's are better) are/were made
in relatively large quantities, and if not damaged by crashing or
abuse, will likely only require minor work to be fully functional.
There are other less common SWB models that occasionally show up on the
used market.
Well the lbs here that is a dealer for both SUN & CYCLE GENIUS
supposedly also has some used models. I will inquire about them on
Tuesday when I go for a test ride.
Quoted message said:There are also some older LWB bikes (e.g. RANS Stratus, Easy Racers
Tour Easy) that may fall into your price range. Just be aware that
since these bikes were expensive when new, those selling for less than
$1,000 will be quite old. The main concern here will be that they might
be equipped with things like 6-speed freewheels, so upgrading to modern
drive trains could be expensive. And of course, with any older
bicycles, the frame should be inspected for signs of damage and fatigue
cracking. Also, these bicycles perform much better with front fairings,
so I would look for a used bike with the fairing included.
Thanks for the advise.
Ken
--
[T]he bicycle is the most efficient machine ever created: Converting
calories into gas, a bicycle gets the equivalent of three thousand miles
per gallon. ~Bill Strickland, The Quotable Cyclist
Homepage: http://kcm-home.tripod.com/