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fixed gear build up

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Cycling Equipment
Published
3 October 2003
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5 October 2003
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Prometheus
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  1. I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting feeling. very cool if not for a
    slightly too hard saddle.

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a fixed
    gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave that out. Say
    i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how much more to build
    it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets, and not on campus?

    Mike Mechanical Engineering 2006, Carnegie Mellon University Remove nospam to reply.

  2. Prometheus said:

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a fixed
    gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave that out.

    Well, the frame should either be one you have around (doesn't everyone have enough parts to build up
    at least one full bike?), or should be a "find". Look for horizontal dropouts on a road frame, or a
    real track frame, which would be less likely to be found cheap.

    Depending on what usable stuff is on the frame, your costs could be very small.

    Minimal for most folks:

    1) Rear hub. These cost $20-$80 depending. Sheldon Brown has a good selection. You can us a n old
    road hub, but that will not have a lockring. This always starts up debates about whether or not a
    lockring is needed. I side with the "needed" folks, due to an unfortunate experience years ago
    when I loosened a cog.

    2) Sprocket(s). Collect a set, but start with one that will give you a decent ratio. Find that
    by using comparable ratio on a road bike for a while to see how it works. Sprockets cost
    $5-$15 per.

    3) Chain. Get eitehr derailleur type chain, or 1/8" chain meant for bmx, 3-speeds, and track bikes
    -- depending on the thickness of the sprocket you have.

    You can use the road cranks, if you have them. Typically using the inner position for the chainring
    gives the best chainline. Most use a 42-48 tooth ring. Any other stuff would be the same for a road
    bike. If missing, you will need to replace, but...

    Take off derailleurs, leave on brakes. Ride.

    Say i have most of a

    Quoted message said:

    road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how much more to build it up as a
    "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed,

    The cost for hubs is about the same for flip-flop, unless you want double sided fixed-fixed (which
    can take a single-speed freewheel, too). You'd have to re-build the wheel, of course, which may or
    may not mean new spokes. Given a reasonable bike to start, your cost can be lower than $50. I helped
    a guy do this once, who managed to spend ten times that. But he replaced a lot of stuff, and always
    went the priciest way. Weird.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | You will say Christ saith this and the apostles say this; but _`\(,_ | what canst thou say?
    -- George Fox. (_)/ (_) |

  3. Prometheus said:

    I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting feeling. very cool if not for a
    slightly too hard saddle.

    Once you start riding, you'll realize that the saddle was probably just right and you put too much
    weight on it.

    It's not for bearing load, you know... it keeps your hips in position and relieves a bit of strain
    when you need it, but you don't actually sit on the thing.

    A fixed gear bicycle should teach you pretty quickly that your legs are for pedalling.

    Quoted message said:

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a
    fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how
    much more to build it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets,
    and not on campus?

    You can do this relatively cheaply. Depends on whether you want to build your own wheels or what.

    My first fixie was a Schwinn World Sport on which I just replaced the rear wheel with a cheap one I
    built (my first, actually). I used a Suzue Junior flip-flop hub, Surly cog, Dura-Ace lock ring (not
    for cred, but because it is good and fits the hub thread), a cheap rim and straight gauge spokes.

    Most of these parts came from the local bike co-op: Hub $30 Cog 25 Loc 12 Rim 30 Spoke 15

    That was really enough to get me going.

    (I also bought a $20 Shimano freewheel for the other side of the hub, but... see below.)

    I realized a few things right away.

    First, spending a little more on the hub makes a huge difference in ride. I would recommend one of
    the relatively bullet-proof sealed cartridge bearing jobs you can get pretty cheap. I'm currently
    riding a Miche that I got for maybe $70. Second, the flip-flop was totally useless. It's sort of
    like when I moved to a sensible operating system on my desktop computer. As long as my computer
    booted to both, I used the old one as a crutch. Eliminate the option of doing what you don't want to
    do and you won't do it. I first took off the freewheel (and put it on another bike that had a broken
    derailleur so that I had a second bike).

    Next, I started on aesthetics (which are unimportant when you have no money). I replaced the
    chainring bolts with the short stack variety so that I had just the one chainring up front. That
    helped. Then I got some new tires (the afore- and often-mentioned Armadillos). Eventually, I dropped
    the frame and replaced it with an old Bridgestone (I think... serial numbers ground off and bad
    rattle-can paint) frame from a different bike co-op's basement for $30. I cleaned it down to the
    steel and repainted it, then applied some great reflective adhesive film used for road signs. It's
    sharp looking and bright as hell at night, even without lights.

    I got some good brahma bars to replace the old drops and a bar-end brake lever for my single
    front brake.

    Last month I got a fancy new Thompson-esque microadjust seatpost and a Brooks B17, which I
    absolutely love.

    A few months ago, someone in the parking lot at work hit my bike on the rack out front. There was
    some scratching along the reflective film and the rear wheel was ruined. However, the boss-man
    offered to reimburse whatever I spent to replace the thing, so I rebuilt it with the Miche track hub
    and a Mavic rim (I would've gotten Velocity rims, but I really didn't want to go TOO far over the
    original value). I must say it's MUCH more pleasant to ride and I LOVED it before!

    Anyway, that's part of my story. There you go. Elmo King

  4. sheldonbrown.comfixed.html

    "Prometheus" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting


    feeling.

    Quoted message said:

    very cool if not for a slightly too hard saddle.

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a
    fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how
    much more to build it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets,
    and not on campus?

    Mike Mechanical Engineering 2006, Carnegie Mellon University Remove nospam to reply.

  5. Following-up myself. Apologies.

    Elmo Spam King said:

    A few months ago, someone in the parking lot at work hit my bike on the rack out front. There was
    some scratching along the reflective film and the rear wheel was ruined. However, the boss-man
    offered to reimburse whatever I spent to replace the thing, so I rebuilt it with the Miche track
    hub and a Mavic rim (I would've gotten Velocity rims, but I really didn't want to go TOO far over
    the original value). I must say it's MUCH more pleasant to ride and I LOVED it before!

    I forgot to mention that I also replaced the cog with a Dura-Ace cog (and the Miche hub has a unique
    threading, but came with a lock ring).

    I was going to buy a new Surly cog for my Miche hub, but the fit was terrible (the threads seemed
    all wrong, though it would thread on with ENORMOUS force) and it wasn't wide enough to stay locked
    between the ring and the hub flanges!!! Turned out, there was great variation in these cog widths
    from individual to individual.

    The Dura-Ace was actually cheaper and of better quality.

    And while Dean at Bike Central said I'd blow my knees out, I'm pretty happy with the
    46x16. Elmo King

  6. Prometheus <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a fixed
    gear from used componentry?

    Assuming you have all (or most of, as you wrote) a road bike laying around, at a minimum you'll need
    a rear wheel built on a track or flip-flop hub. The cheapest hubs run around $30, if you can reuse
    your rim. Prebuilt wheels start at $100 or so. Cogs are under $10, single-speed freewheels are
    around $20. I assume you can reuse your chainring and chain, but you'll probably want shorter
    chainring bolts ($10) so you don't have a vestigial ring on your crank. So $150 might buy the parts
    to do the conversion. Harris Cyclery (www.harriscyclery.com) has all of this stuff, and they built
    up my fixer, and I love riding it.

    I'd also keep an eye on Ebay's Home > All Categories > Sports > Sporting Goods > Cycling > Road
    Bikes & Parts category. There are a few folks who post fixer conversions fairly regularly. It's also
    a good source for vintage steel frames with horizontal dropouts, which make a good staring point for
    a road fixer conversion.

    JLS

  7. Prometheus <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting feeling. very cool if not for a
    slightly too hard saddle.

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a
    fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how
    much more to build it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets,
    and not on campus?

    Mike Mechanical Engineering 2006, Carnegie Mellon University Remove nospam to reply.

    I built a single-speed out of a "found" Raleigh frame and wheel parts I had sitting around. Had I
    not been extravagent and kept the original fork, I could have built the whole bike for the cost of
    the single freewheel. If I'd wanted a fixie, it would have been free.

    If you were here (Portland, OR), you could get an adequate frame and fork for about $50 from
    Citybikes Co-op. If you can scrounge an old ten-speed that's the right size and has a freewheel rear
    hub, the build-up will cost you $bike + $cog + $lockring. Keep the brakes- even the fixie-riding
    messengers around here usually retain the front brake.

    Jeff

  8. Elmo Spam King said:

    Once you start riding, you'll realize that the saddle was probably just right and you put too much
    weight on it.

    It's not for bearing load, you know... it keeps your hips in position and relieves a bit of strain
    when you need it, but you don't actually sit on the thing.

    The hell you say! I have two fixies, both with nice high bars and both with plump saddles that get
    sat upon. I wouldn't have it any other way.

    A fixie will bring you plenty of pain and suffering regardless. No need to invite more.

    Chalo Colina

  9. Prometheus-<< My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building
    up a fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? >><BR><BR>

    Not much. You can use your levers, your crank/BB(one ring on the inside), your front wheel and
    brake. There are way to convert some rear freehubs to fixed gear hubs, or get a wheel with a
    freewheel hub and put a track cog onto that. Some track chainring bolts, perhaps a new rear
    wheel-go ride.

    Hopefully the frameset has horizontal dropouts, essential for a fixed gear. tensioners will not work
    with a fixed gear, for single speeds(BMX freewheeltype).

    A flipflop hub starts about $35(Suzue basic)

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  10. "Prometheus" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting feeling. very cool if not for a
    slightly too hard saddle.

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a
    fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how
    much more to build it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets,
    and not on campus?

    There are 3 challenges to building a fixed gear:

    Chain tensioning -- use a frame with horizontal dropouts, & it's easy, everything else is a bit of a
    hassle & $$.

    Chain line -- should be perfect, if you get lucky with existing crank, great, else you may have to
    screw around with new BB's, spacers, etc. If you're re-spacing the rear wheel (likely), you'll have
    to re-dish, no big deal unless you have old, frozen spokes.

    Rear wheel -- Ideally one with a track hub (made for using a lockring), track components more pricey
    than typical road/MTB stuff, due to low mfg volumes. Complete, pre-built wheel $100 and up. There
    are a variety of ways to hack old non-track wheels, both freewheel & freehub types, see the on-line
    articles at sheldonbrown.com.

    Flip-flop hubs sound like a great idea, but most people wind up never using the freewheel side. I
    have one which I have only used for off-road riding (ride fixed to trail, flip wheel).

    The cheapest route is to get an old freewheel bike w/ horiz. dropouts, loctite a track sprocket
    (don't use backpedal braking), re-space & re-dish the rear wheel to get the chain line right.

    A particularly appropriate article:

    sheldonbrown.comhow to fixed conversion.html

    You should be able to find a suitable 10/12 speed old bike for $50 or so, and the cheap path
    will put you on the road for perhaps a total cost of $100. WIth an new rear wheel, figure more
    like $200-250.

  11. "Prometheus" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I rode a fixed gear for the first time today. quite an interesting


    feeling.

    Quoted message said:

    very cool if not for a slightly too hard saddle.

    My question to you tech people is this: how much (or little in my case) spend building up a
    fixed gear from used componentry? I'm not sure how cheap I could get a frame, so let's leave
    that out. Say i have most of a road bike and I want to go fixed. what's it gonna cost? and how
    much more to build it up as a "flip-flop" fixed-gear/singlespeed, so I can coast around streets,
    and not on campus?

    Mike Mechanical Engineering 2006, Carnegie Mellon University Remove nospam to reply.

    I built my first fixed gear bike for a grand total of $40 and most of that was for the rims, stem,
    and bars...

    If inexpensive is the key word, go with a road freewheel hub re-spaced to whatever dimension your
    frame's using. You can move the FW side over to get the chainline right making a wheel with less
    dish/stronger.

    In all the years that I rode back and forth to work on a fixie, and the years I've spent racing
    track, I've never had a cog unscrew. Is it safer with the lockring? Yup. Is it absolutely
    necessary? Nope.

    If you decide that a more expensive fixie is in the works: that you'll ride it frequently enough to
    warrant a spendy hub, then go get something with nice bearings and a lockring.

    If you don't have a stash of parts laying around the garage, your LBS probably has some old stuff
    that they want to get rid of cheap. Used is good!

    I was riding a 42x17 back and forth to work because I had to go over a few big hills. For flatter
    rides, you'll have to see what gears work for you. Any recommendations from the peanut gallery?

    You'll learn the meaning of spin going downhill on a fixie!

    You'll be amazed what you can climb on your fixie's one gear 'cause you don't have a choice!

    Mike

  12. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] (Qui si parla

    Campagnolo) said:

    Chalo-<< A fixie will bring you plenty of pain and suffering regardless. No need to invite more.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <BR><BR>

    Don't get this. I love to ride my fixie, don't hurt or suffer at all...

    Hee hee hee. I was going to say "perhaps you don't live near the Alps, then" until I looked at the
    sig. You've got a few hills in your neighborhood...

  13. In article mahfb.46008$vj2.21411@fed1read06 said:

    You'll be amazed what you can climb on your fixie's one gear 'cause you don't have a choice!

    I'll second that. I think that hill climbing on a fixed is slightly easier than in the same gear on
    a derailleur bike. Maybe it's just because there ain't no options, as Mike says, or maybe it's just
    a little more efficient with no serpentine routing of the chain through the jockey wheels.

  14. (Qui si parla Campagnolo) said:

    Chalo-<< A fixie will bring you plenty of pain and suffering regardless. No need to invite more.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <BR><BR>

    Don't get this. I love to ride my fixie, don't hurt or suffer at all...

    You must cope with the slopes of Boulder better than I do with the slopes of Seattle. On my fixies,
    if I'm not slogging uphill, wheezing and knees crackling, I'm being dragged along downhill with a
    panic-inducing ferocity. The fact that they bite (pants, fingers) and kick (if you even /think/ of
    slacking off) is just a bonus.

    I see 140-lb messengers cope well with fixed gears in this town, but I have all but given them up
    entirely. One of my fixies mostly displays it freewheel side, and the other most often sports a
    7sp gearhub.

    Chalo Colina

  15. Tim McNamara <[email hidden]> wrote:
    : I'll second that. I think that hill climbing on a fixed is slightly easier than in the same gear
    : on a derailleur bike.

    i've thought that myself. i think for me it's mostly that my geared bike is a full on 6 pounds
    heavier than my fixed. not that the 6 pounds helps much when trying to haul it up ramsey hill or the
    sibley highway up to the high bridge with my usual 76".

    i did meet a guy (in his mid 60s) last summer touring the oregon coast hauling a carradice bag on a
    42x17 (67"😉 fixed. he wasn't exactly having trouble pacing me up those hills.

    my hero.

    it hadn't even occurred to me to tour on a fixed. i know when i'm outclassed.
    --
    david reuteler [email hidden]

  16. "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Don't get this. I love to ride my fixie, don't hurt or suffer at all...

    Hi Peter,

    This is probably drifting a little off topic, but what gear are you running? I understand Colorado
    is pretty mountainous. What sort of hills do you climb?

    I run 68" on mine, on account of a) a short steep 6-8% climb on the way home from work, and b) an
    old track racer at work saying I should run under 70" so I can learn to spin.

    Thus far, my maximum speed seems to be around 45km/h (~140 cadence). I hope to bring that up a tad
    in the coming months.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  17. Chalo said:

    A fixie will bring you plenty of pain and suffering regardless. No need to invite more.

    I had a few exciting moments when I forgot I was on a fixed gear and tried to coast. The first few
    episodes were just embarrassing, but when I once tried to coast while riding no-hands at about 20
    miles/hour, I experienced the best crash I'd had in ages.

    I haven't ridden fixed gear since. Call me set in my ways, but I gave up on trying to overcome the
    habits developed from decades of riding on bikes that let you coast.

    Anyone want to make an offer on a SunTour 32 hole flip-flop hub, 18 tooth freewheel, and 17 tooth
    fixed gear (all barely used)?

    Tom Ace

  18. Tim McNamara <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    In article mahfb.46008$vj2.21411@fed1read06 said:

    You'll be amazed what you can climb on your fixie's one gear 'cause you don't have a choice!

    I'll second that. I think that hill climbing on a fixed is slightly easier than in the same gear
    on a derailleur bike. Maybe it's just because there ain't no options, as Mike says, or maybe it's
    just a little more efficient with no serpentine routing of the chain through the jockey wheels.

    and ill third it. i think two things that i also enjoy uphill fixed are that you can not skip the
    chain. so no matter how unbeleivably slow you are mashing, you can mash at will. obviously, this is
    not generally a problem with well maintained road bikes, but lets just say that my cycling teeth
    were not cut on bikes that worked. some hills i think im doing a spinner's nightmare, something like
    30 rpm. you have to push pretty hard to do that.

    second, i think the fixed gear makes the slow uphill cadence feel better. on a freewheeling bike,
    you lose power/connection to the road at that dead point in the spin, when your cranks are vertical.
    the bike's momentum pulls you through this smoothly on a fixed, whereas on a freewheeling bike i
    feel choppy uphill (and down, actually). (then again, i like out of the saddle climbs. this woudlnt
    be an issue if i sat down and spun like a good boy)

    ymwillv, anthony

  19. OK, just for fun, check out:

    oldskooltrack.comskids.frame.html

    for crazy skidding fixed gear people- including the guy skidding no-handed.

  20. Tim McNamara <[email hidden]> wrote:
    : OK, just for fun, check out:
    :
    : oldskooltrack.comskids.frame.html
    :
    : for crazy skidding fixed gear people- including the guy skidding no-handed.

    that is great. not a stinkin' brake among the lot of 'em (& i doubt they took 'em off first) tho
    some are wearing helmets (i esp. dig the hairnets). my favorite is the guy in jeans w/ the red bike.
    he looks very much like he's somewhere else at the moment. and he seems pretty ok with that.

    cgi.ebay.comeBayISAPI.dll
    --
    david reuteler [email hidden]

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