Frame too big?

Quoted message said:

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

Well, how can anybody tell you without measuring you and the bike? It
seems to me that the bike store did that and then were 'surprised' (?)
at what the measurement turned out to be. Then too, you aren't
comfortable. So let me say here:

1. I'm not an expert -- brand new to this myself.
2. I think how you feel riding trumps any measuring system.
3. You can make many adjustments to the fit of a bike by sliding the
seat in its rails forward / backward / up / down. Likewise you can
adjust the reach to the bars by using different stems. You can also
adjust the bike using different seatposts.

Now what you may have here is a right fitted frame, but some parts used
to make the bike aren't exactly right. What I'm interested in hearing is
why you aren't asking these questions of the vendor? Clearly, you
shouldn't be riding on the nose of your saddle so something is wrong.
I'd say probably the fit of the bike, but if it's the frame size or the
parts made to finish the bike - that's for an in person fitting to
determine.

It really may be as simple as a new stem or moving of the saddle forward
on the seatpost. Either are trivial adjustments.

Finally, whenever I'm 'surprised' at how my calculations come out, I
redo them. Perhaps the guy fitting you really did make an error in his
maths. It does strike me as a bit odd that a fellow at 169 cm rides a 54
cm bike frame.

-paul

Hello,

I have spent a bit of time figuring out what size frame
fits me. The length of the top tube seems to matter more
than that of the seat tube, in the opinion of many. A
practical consideration is that you should be able to stand
over the seat tube with you feat on the ground, this is not
as much of an issue with sloping top-tubes, but check that
out. Also with slopping top-tubes a 51cm frame is actually
not that small. Off the top of my head, for you at 5'5",
169cm, I would go with a 51 or 52cm frame, 53 at the biggest.

-Alex

On 20 May 2006 said:

I am a total beginner when it comes to race bikes. I just bought one,
though.

The store that sold it too me have a system of fitting that involves
measuring several parts of my body and asking be whether I want an
upright position (for race? I don't think so), a really professional
forward position like the pros use, or a "sporty" position in between.
I choose the sporty positions since I am a beginner and I am not going
to participate (or try to win) races. I use the bike for commuting
between home and work and for longer rides on the weekends.

I am 169 cm high (I'm a short fellow), and most of the systems I have
used trying to calculate a frame size (competitive cyclist, wrench
science, 0.66 x inseam length etc.) suggest that a bike of size 51 cm
fits me. Now, I know that there are a billion ways to measure this
number (is it center-center, center-top, how are the angles, what about
slope etc.), but still.

My new bike has a slope frame and is of size 54 cm (I don't know if
this is c-c or what). Both myself and the store guy thought that it was
odd that the system said I needed a 54 cm bike, with be being so small.
We both thought I would need a smaller bike. But he said that it might
be because I have a long upper body or long arms. I don't know.

Now, I don't know how it should feel to ride a race bike. It sure feels
a lot different from riding my ordinary bike. Apart from the fact that
the difference between 51 and 54 scares be a bit (especially since
everybody say that a frame a little bit too small is better than a fram
a little bit too big), it actually feels like I constantly end up on
the tip of the saddle, instead of remaining back in the "right place"
of the saddle. And it is not because the saddle tips forward. It does
not. It actually tips a bit backwards at the moment.

I might be able to adjust things by moving the saddle a bit forward
and/or using a shorter doohickey to hold the handlebar. But wont too
large a frame give other problems then?

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

/David

Paul Cassel said:

Quoted message said:

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

Well, how can anybody tell you without measuring you and the bike?

How you can tell me how it should feel? Because it is universal, I
would guess?

Quoted message said:

It
seems to me that the bike store did that and then were 'surprised' (?)
at what the measurement turned out to be. Then too, you aren't
comfortable. So let me say here:

1. I'm not an expert -- brand new to this myself.
2. I think how you feel riding trumps any measuring system.

I would agree with that. But, my point is, I don't know how it "should"
feel and what to look out for. For all I know, this might be the best
fitted bike I will ever get, or it might be grossly misfitted. How do I
know? It's not like trying on a shoe.

Quoted message said:

3. You can make many adjustments to the fit of a bike by sliding the
seat in its rails forward / backward / up / down. Likewise you can
adjust the reach to the bars by using different stems. You can also
adjust the bike using different seatposts.

And if those adjustments can remove any problems of perhaps a slightly
large frame, then it's okay by me. But if I have got a frame that is
too large for me to ever have a perfect fit on it, and I found out 3
months from now when I have more experience, then I would feel very
bad. At this point in time, I know the store will replace the frame
with a smaller one if I ask them to. They won't do that in 3 months.

Quoted message said:

Now what you may have here is a right fitted frame, but some parts used
to make the bike aren't exactly right.

All the parts and the way they are mounted on the bike (seat post
height etc) is adjusted exactly as their computer system suggested for
my particular body. Unless they made som measuring error on my body.

Quoted message said:

What I'm interested in hearing is
why you aren't asking these questions of the vendor?

I am in a few days, but before that I want to feel better equipped with
knowledge and questions. At the moment, I don't even know for sure if
it is too small. I wanted to have good advice and other people's
experience.

Quoted message said:

Clearly, you
shouldn't be riding on the nose of your saddle so something is wrong.

I think so too. I moved the saddle a bit forward, and it seems to have
helped a bit, but I can't say for sure until I take a longer ride on it
tomorrow.

Quoted message said:

Finally, whenever I'm 'surprised' at how my calculations come out, I
redo them. Perhaps the guy fitting you really did make an error in his
maths.

He only did the measurements. Then he entered my measurements into
their computer system (sort of like CycleFit and those systems), and
then the system suggested a frame size, seat post height etc. So
everything should be adjusted to me.

Quoted message said:

It does strike me as a bit odd that a fellow at 169 cm rides a 54
cm bike frame.

All other systems I've tried say 51 for me. But I don't know if it is
different for this particular frame because it is slope.

/David

Quoted message said:

it actually feels like I constantly end up on
the tip of the saddle, instead of remaining back in the "right place"
of the saddle. And it is not because the saddle tips forward. It does
not. It actually tips a bit backwards at the moment.

Moving to the tip of the saddle during normal riding is not good... you
should be naturally centered in the saddle.

Quoted message said:

I might be able to adjust things by moving the saddle a bit forward
and/or using a shorter doohickey to hold the handlebar. But wont too
large a frame give other problems then?

It's more likely that you are moving forward because your saddle is too
far *forward* rather than too far back... and/or the stem could be too
long. How does the reach to the bars feel? Would you like it to be
less? Is the saddle adjusted in the center of it's rails, or
forward/aft?

A picture from the side of you on the bike would be helpful.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Well, how can anybody tell you without measuring you and the bike?

How you can tell me how it should feel? Because it is universal, I
would guess?

It should feel like the bike fits you. Fit means that the angles are
correct and that you don't feel squashed or stretched. Here you say you
are stretched. It should feel 'not stretched'.

Quoted message said:

I would agree with that. But, my point is, I don't know how it "should"
feel and what to look out for. For all I know, this might be the best
fitted bike I will ever get, or it might be grossly misfitted. How do I
know? It's not like trying on a shoe.

It is like trying on a shoe. If you take a ride and the bike feels
comfortable throughout, then it's right. Sometimes it takes some
experimentation. Why not get a shorter stem from the shop, fit it and
then determine for yourself if this is an improvement?

Quoted message said:

And if those adjustments can remove any problems of perhaps a slightly
large frame, then it's okay by me. But if I have got a frame that is
too large for me to ever have a perfect fit on it, and I found out 3
months from now when I have more experience, then I would feel very
bad. At this point in time, I know the store will replace the frame
with a smaller one if I ask them to. They won't do that in 3 months.

Earlier you said 'racing' which implies to me a very aggressive position
on the bike. Are you really racing? Or do you mean road riding as
opposed to mountain biking positions?

We have a fellow here named Stig Petterson who sets up motorcycle
suspension systems. Many times people say they are racing riders so Stig
gives them a real racing suspension which they hate due to it being so
aggressive. Then he needs to charge them to make it right for them. Here
maybe you were the one to influence the shop into this bike.

What are you planning on doing? Will you really race seriously or do you
just wish to go fast?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

All other systems I've tried say 51 for me. But I don't know if it is
different for this particular frame because it is slope.

The slope probably means compact frame. If you are losing confidence in
this bike, stop posting here, get on it, ride to the shop and ask them
to swap frames for a 51 or 52. Why be so unhappy and full of doubts?

I am not an expert so only can say that fit is very important. That I
know from having a bike too which was too large. Then my friend lent me
a right frame sized bike and made it to fit me right. It made a huge
difference in my enjoyment of riding.

-paul

OK
I will venture to add something.
A well fitted bike; is a bike that you won't feel beat up while riding or
after the ride is over.
I rode a Peugeot for 19 years, and occasionally take it out for a ride. I
bought the bike new. This was my 3rd Peugeot. I had grown from a 24 inch to
the 25 inch over the years. All you did then was stand over the bike, if the
top tube was about an inch or two under your crotch this was the bike that
fit you.
I got a Lemond, it was almost 3 years ago. The difference was outstanding on
my first ride. The only thing I could think of on my first ride on my new
Lemond, was that this was the most comfortable ride I have ever had on a
bicycle.
Bike fit is something scientific, in that your going to work with the bike,
than against it's geometry. Now the Peugeot, by looking at it, looks so
similar, in height and length, only 2 pounds more, but the Lemond geometry
slight variance to the Peugeot, makes the Peugeot feel like a toy. The
Peugeot is a good bike, the Lemond is better.
Bike fit on the long run might take some time to work out a seat position
that is correct for your power, and for durable knee wear. It took a month,
but I developed a knee strain from my setup. The tendon in my knee was
getting sore after rides. I found that my position was too far back in the
seat, causing me to push forward with the knee, instead of downward pushing
with the leg. I adjusted the seat 1/4 inch forward and slightly higher,
also about 1/4 inch. Knee pain has completely gone away.
So when your out there, keep a sense of what hurts when your ride is over
and ask questions on the forum if you feel a need to.
I stayed with my stock peddles, Shimano M515, some people like to change out
the stock peddles. These peddles are great, they float all over the place,
never pulled out on me. You need good peddles, if your knees hurt when your
riding or after riding, check into the problem soon, knee pain should not be
a problem.
Also Shoe fit, is different than bike fit. The shoe needs to be set with the
cleat correctly so you get optimum power stroke, and so you don't experience
pain. Lance Armstong can ride all day, he does not complain of knee pain,
because his bike is fit correctly and his shoes are adjusted to the cleat
correctly.
Good luck, ride careful.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am a total beginner when it comes to race bikes. I just bought one,
though.

The store that sold it too me have a system of fitting that involves
measuring several parts of my body and asking be whether I want an
upright position (for race? I don't think so), a really professional
forward position like the pros use, or a "sporty" position in between.
I choose the sporty positions since I am a beginner and I am not going
to participate (or try to win) races. I use the bike for commuting
between home and work and for longer rides on the weekends.

I am 169 cm high (I'm a short fellow), and most of the systems I have
used trying to calculate a frame size (competitive cyclist, wrench
science, 0.66 x inseam length etc.) suggest that a bike of size 51 cm
fits me. Now, I know that there are a billion ways to measure this
number (is it center-center, center-top, how are the angles, what about
slope etc.), but still.

My new bike has a slope frame and is of size 54 cm (I don't know if
this is c-c or what). Both myself and the store guy thought that it was
odd that the system said I needed a 54 cm bike, with be being so small.
We both thought I would need a smaller bike. But he said that it might
be because I have a long upper body or long arms. I don't know.

Now, I don't know how it should feel to ride a race bike. It sure feels
a lot different from riding my ordinary bike. Apart from the fact that
the difference between 51 and 54 scares be a bit (especially since
everybody say that a frame a little bit too small is better than a fram
a little bit too big), it actually feels like I constantly end up on
the tip of the saddle, instead of remaining back in the "right place"
of the saddle. And it is not because the saddle tips forward. It does
not. It actually tips a bit backwards at the moment.

I might be able to adjust things by moving the saddle a bit forward
and/or using a shorter doohickey to hold the handlebar. But wont too
large a frame give other problems then?

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

/David

First, there are different strategies about fitting, and someone loves
and is successful with each one. They're not absolutes, but they are
well-described at Competitive Cycles:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO.
Note they define three basic types of fit. You sound like you might
be on the Eddy Fit or the French Fit. They both tend to have a taller
seat tube, at least considering a level top tube.

To address some of your concerns, some of my own opinions about my
correct fit. I hope this might be a source of some examples for how
to think about fit. It's important to me to have a method, since I
have four bikes, and I like them all too much to stop riding any of
them.

I think my butt should naturally go to the place on the saddle where
my bones are well-supported, my tender bits are not squeezed or made
numb, and I'm not hanging off the back. The saddle should be narrow
enough that I'm not getting chafed by rubbing or binding with the
chamois edge. I like having my knee over the pedal spindle, with my
big toe big knuckle over the pedal spindle with a level foot. This
point could cause a lot of argument, but this is what I like. I
sometimes like to move the saddle back up to a centimeter.

I find the Lemond criterion for saddle height works pretty well for
me. I need enough leg extension, but not too much. I also need to be
able to lift off the saddle and bars a bit with ease to "float" my
body over bumps.

To get these criteria met, the seat tube length and layback angle are
important. The saddle distance back from the bottom bracket, measured
horizontally, has to be in a certain range. The seat tube angle and
length are major elements in achieving that. It sounds like your
saddle is too far back for your femur length, and your saddle needs to
move forward. If you can't move it forward adequately by sliding it
forward in the seat post clamps, or by substituting a different
seatpost (Thomson posts are very secure and have zero setback), you
really do have the wrong frame. This seat tube angle is critical in
addition to the seat tube length.

Once this is correct, the next question is adjusting my reach. I like
to be able to move from the hoods to the drops two hands at a time,
which means not too myuch weight on my hands, and I like a fairly easy
reach to the drops. I have a belly, so I can't lean too far forward
without a sense of constraint at the top of the pedal stroke. A
difference in stem extension of 1 cm makes a significant difference,
and the handlebar height is also important. It works out that I like
the saddle about a centimeter below the saddle, measured top-to-top.
Then I get what looks to me like a 45 degree back angle lean.

This has worked out not bad for me, as I said, on four bikes for rides
up to abotu 40 miles. I'm not up to anything longer yet.

Good luck, this stuff is really important. Handle it carefully.

Ken Freeman

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Paul Cassel said:

Quoted message said:

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or
not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

Well, how can anybody tell you without measuring you and the bike?

How you can tell me how it should feel? Because it is universal, I
would guess?

Quoted message said:

It
seems to me that the bike store did that and then were 'surprised'
(?)
at what the measurement turned out to be. Then too, you aren't
comfortable. So let me say here:

1. I'm not an expert -- brand new to this myself.
2. I think how you feel riding trumps any measuring system.

I would agree with that. But, my point is, I don't know how it
"should"
feel and what to look out for. For all I know, this might be the
best
fitted bike I will ever get, or it might be grossly misfitted. How
do I
know? It's not like trying on a shoe.

Quoted message said:

3. You can make many adjustments to the fit of a bike by sliding
the
seat in its rails forward / backward / up / down. Likewise you can
adjust the reach to the bars by using different stems. You can also
adjust the bike using different seatposts.

And if those adjustments can remove any problems of perhaps a
slightly
large frame, then it's okay by me. But if I have got a frame that is
too large for me to ever have a perfect fit on it, and I found out 3
months from now when I have more experience, then I would feel very
bad. At this point in time, I know the store will replace the frame
with a smaller one if I ask them to. They won't do that in 3 months.

Quoted message said:

Now what you may have here is a right fitted frame, but some parts
used
to make the bike aren't exactly right.

All the parts and the way they are mounted on the bike (seat post
height etc) is adjusted exactly as their computer system suggested
for
my particular body. Unless they made som measuring error on my body.

Quoted message said:

What I'm interested in hearing is
why you aren't asking these questions of the vendor?

I am in a few days, but before that I want to feel better equipped
with
knowledge and questions. At the moment, I don't even know for sure
if
it is too small. I wanted to have good advice and other people's
experience.

Quoted message said:

Clearly, you
shouldn't be riding on the nose of your saddle so something is
wrong.

I think so too. I moved the saddle a bit forward, and it seems to
have
helped a bit, but I can't say for sure until I take a longer ride on
it
tomorrow.

Quoted message said:

Finally, whenever I'm 'surprised' at how my calculations come out,
I
redo them. Perhaps the guy fitting you really did make an error in
his
maths.

He only did the measurements. Then he entered my measurements into
their computer system (sort of like CycleFit and those systems), and
then the system suggested a frame size, seat post height etc. So
everything should be adjusted to me.

Quoted message said:

It does strike me as a bit odd that a fellow at 169 cm rides a 54
cm bike frame.

All other systems I've tried say 51 for me. But I don't know if it
is
different for this particular frame because it is slope.

/David

Aman said:

Hello,

I have spent a bit of time figuring out what size frame
fits me. The length of the top tube seems to matter more
than that of the seat tube, in the opinion of many. A
practical consideration is that you should be able to stand
over the seat tube with you feat on the ground, this is not
as much of an issue with sloping top-tubes, but check that
out. Also with slopping top-tubes a 51cm frame is actually
not that small. Off the top of my head, for you at 5'5",
169cm, I would go with a 51 or 52cm frame, 53 at the biggest.

Along those same lines, I'm 5'5" and I ride an actual 42cm (c-t) or 36cm
(c-c) compact frame, as properly-sized bikes have never felt small enough
for me. I also see the front hub way ahead of my handlebars, which in fact
it should be hidden by the handlebar.

For average proportions at your size, I would suggest a virtual 52cm at the
largest, and a virtual 49cm at the smallest.

Ask your LBS to see if your frame sizing is virtual or actual. It's
critical. Also, your LBS shouldn't be opposed to giving you a chance to
test-ride the bike for a full 2 hours to get an idea of how the bike should
ride, especially if it's a high-dollar item. Be sure to use your own pedals
and be dressed in full garb.

--
Phil

[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I am a total beginner when it comes to race bikes. I just bought one,
though.

The store that sold it too me have a system of fitting that involves
measuring several parts of my body and asking be whether I want an
upright position (for race? I don't think so), a really professional
forward position like the pros use, or a "sporty" position in between.
I choose the sporty positions since I am a beginner and I am not going
to participate (or try to win) races. I use the bike for commuting
between home and work and for longer rides on the weekends.

Quoted message said:

I am 169 cm high (I'm a short fellow), and most of the systems I have
used trying to calculate a frame size (competitive cyclist, wrench
science, 0.66 x inseam length etc.) suggest that a bike of size 51 cm
fits me. Now, I know that there are a billion ways to measure this
number (is it center-center, center-top, how are the angles, what about
slope etc.), but still.

My new bike has a slope frame and is of size 54 cm (I don't know if
this is c-c or what). Both myself and the store guy thought that it was
odd that the system said I needed a 54 cm bike, with be being so small.
We both thought I would need a smaller bike. But he said that it might
be because I have a long upper body or long arms. I don't know.

Now, I don't know how it should feel to ride a race bike. It sure feels
a lot different from riding my ordinary bike. Apart from the fact that
the difference between 51 and 54 scares be a bit (especially since
everybody say that a frame a little bit too small is better than a fram
a little bit too big), it actually feels like I constantly end up on
the tip of the saddle, instead of remaining back in the "right place"
of the saddle. And it is not because the saddle tips forward. It does
not. It actually tips a bit backwards at the moment.

I might be able to adjust things by moving the saddle a bit forward
and/or using a shorter doohickey to hold the handlebar. But wont too
large a frame give other problems then?

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

/David

Since you don't know how the frame is measured, it is impossible to say
how big it really is. Since a bike with a sloping top tube can't use
the c-c method of sizing, it may be c-t or just the equivalent of a 54cm
if it was measured c-c. A 54cm frame measured c-t wouldn't be much
different than a 51cm frame with a horizontal top tube measured c-c.
Maybe you more or less have a 51cm frame and don't know it. If it is
the equivalent of 54cm, then I would say that frame is most probably too
large for you. I'm 2-3" taller than you and a 54cm is right for me. A
55cm is a bit too large.

As for adjustments, saddle position should be dictated by the position
of your knees relative to the pedal. There is a rule of thumb called
KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) which says that your kneecap should line
up vertically with the pedal spindle when the crank is parallel to the
road. This has been much debated and is not absolute, but most pundits
seem to agree that KOPS or a position slightly further back is about
right for most people under most conditions. If you are too far from
the bars with the saddle adjusted for best pedaling, then the stem
should be traded for a shorter one. Handlebars also come in different
widths and with different depths. However, stem length has a noticeable
effect on the feel of the bike's steering.

Since with a sloping top tube standover height generally isn't a
problem, the question of seat tube measurement isn't all that important
compared to top tube length. It is top tube length that seems to be an
issue with you. If your bike had a published virtual top tube length,
that would be the measurement of primary interest.

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Paul Cassel wrote:

I would agree with that. But, my point is, I don't know how it "should"
feel and what to look out for. For all I know, this might be the best
fitted bike I will ever get, or it might be grossly misfitted. How do I
know? It's not like trying on a shoe.

_ Yes, it is. If it feels uncomfortable you won't ride the
bike. The "right" fitting will likely change over time as you
get more riding time in and have a better idea of what works
for you. If you feel uncomfortable on the bike right now, it's
not right period, doesn't matter what magic numbers the fitters
come up with.

_ Here's some pretty useful advice.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

_ IMHO, you should be less concerned with the seat tube length
and more with the effective top tube length. If you get that
right, the rest of the bike can generally be adapted, if you
get that too short or long, then the bike will never be
comfortable. If you have a really long torso, you should
probably be looking at so-called compact bikes. These
are bikes with sloping top tubes.

_ Booker C. Bense

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In article <OL6cg.13270$8q.233@dukeread08>,

Phil said:

I also see the front hub way ahead of my handlebars, which in fact
it should be hidden by the handlebar.

_ That's just a rule of thumb, if it works for you fine, but I
wouldn't put too much stock in it.

_ Booker C. Bense

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Quoted message said:

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

Much has been written about proper bike fit. This page by former frame
builder Dave Moulton offers useful information:
http://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle6.htm

Booker C. Bense said:

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In article <OL6cg.13270$8q.233@dukeread08>,

Phil said:

I also see the front hub way ahead of my handlebars, which in fact
it should be hidden by the handlebar.

_ That's just a rule of thumb, if it works for you fine, but I
wouldn't put too much stock in it.

Yes... I should have phrased it, "which for most, it should be hidden by the
handlebar."
--
Phil

Quoted message said:

I am 169 cm high (I'm a short fellow), and most of the systems I have
used trying to calculate a frame size (competitive cyclist, wrench
science, 0.66 x inseam length etc.) suggest that a bike of size 51 cm
fits me. Now, I know that there are a billion ways to measure this
number (is it center-center, center-top, how are the angles, what about
slope etc.), but still.

TBH, the length of your top-tube is more important here. Especially
with a compact you can tweak the heigth of your saddle by
raising/lowering it (all with limits of course, but 4 cm aint a
problem), but tweaking the length of a bike can seriously alter your
bikes handling.

Quoted message said:

My new bike has a slope frame and is of size 54 cm (I don't know if
this is c-c or what). Both myself and the store guy thought that it was
odd that the system said I needed a 54 cm bike, with be being so small.
We both thought I would need a smaller bike. But he said that it might
be because I have a long upper body or long arms. I don't know.

I am 1.71 and use a 54 c-c. It fits like a glove, but i do ride cat b
and sit stretched. I could get a similar position with a 52, wich prob
would be even better. But like I said, my 54 fits like a glove.

Quoted message said:

Now, I don't know how it should feel to ride a race bike. It sure feels
a lot different from riding my ordinary bike. Apart from the fact that
the difference between 51 and 54 scares be a bit (especially since
everybody say that a frame a little bit too small is better than a fram
a little bit too big),

A few cms don't matter as much as ppl say. You can adjust it by
raising/lowering the saddle and getting a longer/shorter stem.

Quoted message said:

it actually feels like I constantly end up on
the tip of the saddle, instead of remaining back in the "right place"
of the saddle. And it is not because the saddle tips forward. It does
not. It actually tips a bit backwards at the moment.

You say you are new to racing: moving to the point of your saddle might
also haveto do with your gearing. Pushing a big gear makes you move to
the point of your saddle(Riding the rivet), especially if you are not
yet used to spinning.

It might be the bike size, but we need to know more before we can
pinpoint it.

Quoted message said:

I might be able to adjust things by moving the saddle a bit forward
and/or using a shorter doohickey to hold the handlebar. But wont too
large a frame give other problems then?

Depends how much adjusting it will be. A few cms won't be a problem,
but there are limits.

Quoted message said:

Please help me to understand if my frame is the right size or not. I
don't know how it should feel or not feel.

/David

Don't let the grognards here scare you: if you are new at this you will
have to get used to riding a bike, even a perfect fit will take some
miles. I can adjust a new bike within millimeters without measuring,
just by feeling, but I will have circled the globe by now🙂

The best tip I can give you is that you should let an experienced
person look how you sit on your bike (the LBS hopefully, but not all
have that skill).