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Freewheel removal - which direction

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
31 January 2004
Last activity
6 February 2004
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DaveB
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  1. I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.
    Dave B.

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.

    _Pedaling_ tightens it, if that will help you. In other words,
    clockwise tightens it, counter-clockwise loosens it, just like a
    normally threaded bolt or nut.

    --
    Dave Kerber
    Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

    REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

  3. It has a right-hand thread. Just think about how the action of pedalling
    tightens the freewheel by rotating it on the hub. It unsecrew in the
    opposite direction.

    If you have the remover mounted in a vise, it will be easier to loosen the
    freewheel by an initial jerk rather than just using steady pressure.

    Nick

    "DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off.

  4. In article <[email hidden]>,

    DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out


    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Yes, counter-clockwise unscrews it.

    Quoted message said:

    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.

    Thread-on freewheels of various makes pretty much screw onto
    the same hub interchangably, although I suppose there can be
    exotic exceptions.

    The best way is to clamp the tool in a vice mounted on a heavy
    workbench, and turn the wheel by the rim. If you have to use a
    wrench instead of a vice, the longer the handle, the more leverage
    you can apply. Slow & steady force with a lot of leverage does the
    trick better than a lot of whalloping. I use a very big crescent
    wrench and a length of iron pipe to extend the handle. Vice grips
    will kill the flats on the freewheel tool in no time; they also
    rather annoyingly tend to spring open right at the moment before
    progress is made. There used to be "pocket vices" available, which
    fit over the tool's flats and take the brunt of the punishment
    dished out by the wrench or whatever tool is used to do the turning,
    but I don't know if they still make 'em. I haven't seen one in a
    long time.

    Incidentally, if the hub has loose bearing balls, a wire-mesh tea ball
    works wonderfully to dunk them in whatever degreaser you use, and keep
    them all together. It can save a bunch of counting later on.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  5. Tom Keats said:

    Thread-on freewheels of various makes pretty much screw onto
    the same hub interchangably, although I suppose there can be
    exotic exceptions.

    Old French freewheels had a slightly different thread, IIRC.

    Quoted message said:

    Incidentally, if the hub has loose bearing balls, a wire-mesh tea ball
    works wonderfully to dunk them in whatever degreaser you use, and keep
    them all together. It can save a bunch of counting later on.

    Nah. Chuck the balls. Get new ones. They are cheap.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | "What am I on? I'm on my bike, six hours a day, busting my ass.
    _`\(,_ | What are you on?" --Lance Armstrong
    (_)/ (_) |

  6. DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight.

    Always the way with freewheels.

    Quoted message said:

    Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off.

    Normal right-hand threads. Hold the freewheel against the tool using the
    QR skewer (not too tight), chuck the tool in the vice, and grab the rim
    with both hands to loosen. It takes a lot of force. Use anti-seize on
    the threads before you put it back on.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | It is a scientifically proven fact that a mid life crisis can
    _`\(,_ | only be cured by something racy and Italian. Bianchis and
    (_)/ (_) | Colnagos are a lot cheaper than Maserattis and Ferraris. --
    Glenn Davies

  7. I tried for a while then gave up and went back to the bike shop. They
    used the vice the same as I tried but it took two men to get it off, one
    arm on each quarter of the rim. No wonder I couldn't do it.

    Dave B.

    DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.
    Dave B.

  8. DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.
    Dave B.


    Here's a trick I've used for when you don't have a vice (apart from
    smoking, drinking, etc.) but do have a socket set. Put the appropriate
    size socket on the freewheel tool, and on the socket put that funny
    bar-type handle on which the (usually 1/2"😉 drive can slide up and down.
    Now find a door frame that doesn't matter if it gets a bit dinged up
    (e.g. a back shed), or wrap the socket handle in a rag, and wedge the
    handle in the hinge side of the door. This gives you resistance against
    which you can unscrew the wheel (anti-clockwise [as we say in
    Australia], holding it by the rim).

    HTH,

    &roo

  9. As far as I know, all freewheels are removed in the same way. You should be
    sure that you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. I have never removed a
    cassette, and don't know how to do that. Freewheels are threaded with a
    normal right hand thread. In this fashion, when the chain pulls on it, it
    tightens. To remove it you turn it counterclockwise when viewing it from the
    drive side. They can be quite difficult to remove.

    Ernie

    DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.
    Dave B.

  10. "E. Willson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    As far as I know, all freewheels are removed in the same way. You should be
    sure that you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. I have never removed a
    cassette, and don't know how to do that. Freewheels are threaded with a
    normal right hand thread. In this fashion, when the chain pulls on it, it
    tightens. To remove it you turn it counterclockwise when viewing it from the
    drive side. They can be quite difficult to remove.

    Ernie

    I'm sure the guys in the bike shop would have got it right...

    Anyway, removing a cassette is as easy as pie - use the splined tool
    to remove the lockring and then all the sprockets and spacers just
    slide right off.

    Ritch

  11. (Ritch) said:

    "E. Willson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    As far as I know, all freewheels are removed in the same way. You should be
    sure that you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. I have never removed a
    cassette, and don't know how to do that. Freewheels are threaded with a
    normal right hand thread. In this fashion, when the chain pulls on it, it
    tightens. To remove it you turn it counterclockwise when viewing it from the
    drive side. They can be quite difficult to remove.

    Ernie

    I'm sure the guys in the bike shop would have got it right...

    Anyway, removing a cassette is as easy as pie - use the splined tool
    to remove the lockring and then all the sprockets and spacers just
    slide right off.

    Ritch

    A chain whip helps when you try to remove a cassette lockring- holding
    using your hand can lead to some interesting wound patterns 🙂

  12. Dan Daniel said:

    A chain whip helps when you try to remove a cassette lockring- holding
    using your hand can lead to some interesting wound patterns 🙂

    As a substitute for a chain whip you can wrap a piece of chain around
    the cassette and clamp both ends in a vice so they form a tightish
    loop around the sprocket with the wheel at 90 degrees to the vice
    jaws. Be careful not to bend anything, Oh and don't use you good chain
    ;-} It's a bit of a juggle but works fine.

    By the way a chain whip is about $15.00.

    Regards,

    Neil.

  13. That's where an old pair of leather motorcycle gloves come in handy.
    Dave B.

    Dan Daniel said:
    (Ritch) said:

    "E. Willson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    As far as I know, all freewheels are removed in the same way. You should be
    sure that you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. I have never removed a
    cassette, and don't know how to do that. Freewheels are threaded with a
    normal right hand thread. In this fashion, when the chain pulls on it, it
    tightens. To remove it you turn it counterclockwise when viewing it from the
    drive side. They can be quite difficult to remove.

    Ernie

    I'm sure the guys in the bike shop would have got it right...

    Anyway, removing a cassette is as easy as pie - use the splined tool
    to remove the lockring and then all the sprockets and spacers just
    slide right off.

    Ritch

    A chain whip helps when you try to remove a cassette lockring- holding
    using your hand can lead to some interesting wound patterns 🙂

  14. Dan Daniel <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    (Ritch) said:

    "E. Willson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    As far as I know, all freewheels are removed in the same way. You should be
    sure that you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. I have never removed a
    cassette, and don't know how to do that. Freewheels are threaded with a
    normal right hand thread. In this fashion, when the chain pulls on it, it
    tightens. To remove it you turn it counterclockwise when viewing it from the
    drive side. They can be quite difficult to remove.

    Ernie

    I'm sure the guys in the bike shop would have got it right...

    Anyway, removing a cassette is as easy as pie - use the splined tool
    to remove the lockring and then all the sprockets and spacers just
    slide right off.

    Ritch

    A chain whip helps when you try to remove a cassette lockring- holding
    using your hand can lead to some interesting wound patterns 🙂

    Oh yes, I forgot that most people don't have hands like the incredible hulk.

    Ritch

  15. The reason your free wheel was so tight is because of the pressure from
    tightening up as you pedal the threads chemically weld to the hub, a bit of
    grease on the threads be for you put the cluster back on can help prevnet
    this. Over all though a cassete is better if only because it makes it easier
    to replace broken spokes. Personally I keep my cassette only a bit over
    finger tight and it has never come undone on the road.

    Regrds Matt

    DaveB <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I tried for a while then gave up and went back to the bike shop. They
    used the vice the same as I tried but it took two men to get it off, one
    arm on each quarter of the rim. No wonder I couldn't do it.

    Dave B.

    DaveB said:

    I'm about to do a well overdue overhaul of my rear wheel hub. I did the
    front a while ago but have been putting off doing the back because I
    didn't have a freewheel remover. Now I've got one I've just gone to take
    the freewheel off but it's stuck on pretty tight. Beofre I go all brutal
    on it with the vice I thought I better check which way it comes off. If
    I'm looking at the freewheel, do I turn it anti-clockwise to come out,
    or does it go in the opposite direction? I remember reading something
    about it going a certain direction so that the turning wheel tightens
    it. BTW it's a Shimano freewheel if that makes any difference.
    Dave B.


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