Front derailler adjustment

Yum said:

I have a bike with Shimano SRX STI. Tripple chainrings.
I am not able to shift to the largest chainring.
I need to click twice to move chain from smallest to middle, and then shift
down once to make derailer properly aligned to the middle. However, I can
never shift to the largest ring. I have it adusted at LBS, but it lasted
only few weeks. I adjusted limit screws, but that does seem to move the
derailer cage far enough for the lagest chain ring. How can I fix this ?
TIA

It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:

<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>

Quoted message said:

It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:

<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>

--
daveornee

You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
advice.
Thanks a lot !

Yum said:

Quoted message said:

It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:

<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>

--
daveornee

You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
advice.
Thanks a lot !

While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
(including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
reattaching the cable at the derailleur.

Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
compensate.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Yum said:

Quoted message said:

It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:

<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>

--
daveornee

You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
advice.
Thanks a lot !

While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
(including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
reattaching the cable at the derailleur.

Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
compensate.

Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
reason, I am not able to turn
the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion too
high ?
I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
remove them the from shifter ?
Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.

Yum said:

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Yum said:

>
> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
>
> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
>
>
> --
> daveornee
>

You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
advice.
Thanks a lot !

While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
(including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
reattaching the cable at the derailleur.

Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
compensate.

Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
reason, I am not able to turn
the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion too
high ?

No, cable tension would not be sufficient to prevent the adjuster
barrel from turning. It's probably corrosion in the threads. The first
thing I'd try is backing it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful
though since on the RSX group (at least on mine) the adjuster is
plastic.

Quoted message said:

I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
remove them the from shifter ?
Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.

No, on STI shifter/brake levers both cables can be removed without
taking anything apart. To remove the shifter cable first get the lever
into the gear with the least cable tension. On both front and rear
this is accomplished by clicking the inner lever a bunch of times. If
you've already disconnected the cable from the derailleur, pull on the
cable while you're doing this. Then squeeze the brakes and look into
the exposed innards, opposite where the shifter cable housing enters
the lever. You'll see a hole out of which the cable can be removed.
Pushing on the cable where it enters the downtube boss should cause
the little knob at the cable end to pop out of the hole.

Brake cables are also removed with the lever squeezed. Release the
lever on the brake that's used when you remove a wheel, or on
cantilever brakes detach the cable at the brake. Alternatively,
disconnect the cable at the caliper. This will allow you to squeeze
the lever fully. Look into the innards of the lever from the front and
you'll see where the knob at the end of the cable seats in the lever.
Pushing the cable into the housing at the other end should push the
knob out of the lever.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Yum said:

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:59:34 -0700, "Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote:

>>
>> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
>> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
>> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
>>
>> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
>>
>>
>> --
>> daveornee
>>
>
>You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following

your

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>advice.
>Thanks a lot !

While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
(including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
reattaching the cable at the derailleur.

Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
compensate.

Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
reason, I am not able to turn
the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion

too

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

high ?

No, cable tension would not be sufficient to prevent the adjuster
barrel from turning. It's probably corrosion in the threads. The first
thing I'd try is backing it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful
though since on the RSX group (at least on mine) the adjuster is
plastic.

Quoted message said:

I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
remove them the from shifter ?
Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.

No, on STI shifter/brake levers both cables can be removed without
taking anything apart. To remove the shifter cable first get the lever
into the gear with the least cable tension. On both front and rear
this is accomplished by clicking the inner lever a bunch of times. If
you've already disconnected the cable from the derailleur, pull on the
cable while you're doing this. Then squeeze the brakes and look into
the exposed innards, opposite where the shifter cable housing enters
the lever. You'll see a hole out of which the cable can be removed.
Pushing on the cable where it enters the downtube boss should cause
the little knob at the cable end to pop out of the hole.

Brake cables are also removed with the lever squeezed. Release the
lever on the brake that's used when you remove a wheel, or on
cantilever brakes detach the cable at the brake. Alternatively,
disconnect the cable at the caliper. This will allow you to squeeze
the lever fully. Look into the innards of the lever from the front and
you'll see where the knob at the end of the cable seats in the lever.
Pushing the cable into the housing at the other end should push the
knob out of the lever.

Thanks for a detailed instruction. This is very helpful.