Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Front fork offset mystery?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
10 April 2007
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11 April 2007
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  1. I might be completely wrong on this, but here goes a question to every
    Raleigh or classic bike owner/mechanic. I've just built up a new
    VanSchothorst 26 1 3/8 Stainless Westrick with DT Swiss Competition DB
    spokes with brass washers, on the original Sturmey front hub. I used
    an upturned Raleigh Esquire as a truing stand for the initial lacing.
    Ok, all went well, centred the wheel between the forks, all ok.
    Transferred the wheel for the stage of bringing it up to tension and
    accurate truing. For this i used a pair of 700c forks with a single
    rod brake stay clamp with brake shoe for lateral and 6" steel rule
    banded horizontally to gauge roundness. Got the wheel good and true,
    but then noticed that it was quite a bit to one side. Scratched head,
    thought it must have been bent forks on the Raleigh, so re-dished to
    get it exactly central. After destressing the wheel prior to fitting,
    i installed it in the 1984 Raleigh Superbe and would you believe it,
    the wheel wasn't in the middle.

    Now i've had my suspicions in the past, as i could insert a finger on
    one side between tyre and fork stay from the back of the fork, but not
    on the other side. I thought that this can't be right, so i checked my
    other 4 3-speeds and you guessed it, all the same.

    So here is my question, are your's the same, bigger gap on the right ,
    than the left, i.e. the forks are biased to shift the wheel about 5mm
    to the lefthand side. I've double checked by flipping up the bikes,
    taking off the front wheel and hanging a pointed weight from exactly
    half way netween the fork dropouts and predictably, it points about
    5mm to one side on the underside of the mudguard.

    Is there any reason for this quirk. Is there a practical reason for
    it?
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    Many thanks, Nick.

  2. Some ideas to check.

    The 700c forks were Likely 100mm spacing.
    The Sturmey Archer hub is probably ~90mm (3 1/2"😉 spacing.

    To add to the problems, people often file openings and bend or spread
    Raleigh forks to fit other wheels sometimes causing alignment problems.

    HTH

    Marcus

  3. Marcus Coles said:

    Some ideas to check.

    The 700c forks were Likely 100mm spacing.
    The Sturmey Archer hub is probably ~90mm (3 1/2"😉 spacing.

    To add to the problems, people often file openings and bend or spread
    Raleigh forks to fit other wheels sometimes causing alignment problems.

    HTH

    Marcus

    cheers Marcus, the oln is 100mm on both the Sturmey hub and the forks
    of the Superbe, probably because they are later models. I thought that
    perhaps it was something to do with either the provision of a tyre
    dynamo or perhaps some untold fix for a stability issue. Maybe someone
    might still have some knowledge about what an offset wheel does for
    handling.

    all the best, Nick.

  4. Quoted message said:

    I might be completely wrong on this, but here goes a question to every
    Raleigh or classic bike owner/mechanic. I've just built up a new
    VanSchothorst 26 1 3/8 Stainless Westrick with DT Swiss Competition DB
    spokes with brass washers, on the original Sturmey front hub. I used
    an upturned Raleigh Esquire as a truing stand for the initial lacing.
    Ok, all went well, centred the wheel between the forks, all ok.
    Transferred the wheel for the stage of bringing it up to tension and
    accurate truing. For this i used a pair of 700c forks with a single
    rod brake stay clamp with brake shoe for lateral and 6" steel rule
    banded horizontally to gauge roundness. Got the wheel good and true,
    but then noticed that it was quite a bit to one side. Scratched head,
    thought it must have been bent forks on the Raleigh, so re-dished to
    get it exactly central. After destressing the wheel prior to fitting,
    i installed it in the 1984 Raleigh Superbe and would you believe it,
    the wheel wasn't in the middle.

    Now i've had my suspicions in the past, as i could insert a finger on
    one side between tyre and fork stay from the back of the fork, but not
    on the other side. I thought that this can't be right, so i checked my
    other 4 3-speeds and you guessed it, all the same.

    So here is my question, are your's the same, bigger gap on the right ,
    than the left, i.e. the forks are biased to shift the wheel about 5mm
    to the lefthand side. I've double checked by flipping up the bikes,
    taking off the front wheel and hanging a pointed weight from exactly
    half way netween the fork dropouts and predictably, it points about
    5mm to one side on the underside of the mudguard.

    Is there any reason for this quirk. Is there a practical reason for
    it?
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    Many thanks, Nick.


    All front wheels should be centered such that the rim is in the middle
    of the fork when installed either way around. Either fix the wheel or
    align the fork or both as needed until it centers when flipped either way.

    Raleigh/ Sturmey Archer classic front hubs have no locknut and as such
    _must_ have the round cone on the right (chain side) and the adjustable
    cone on the left. This is a safety issue as a 'backward' wheel can seize
    when riding. Note also the cones are 'spigotted' to fit the
    keyhole-shaped fork ends (the original PRD!!). If you have not quite
    engaged the cone in its seat you will also get an off-center effect.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  5. Quoted message said:

    --
    Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org

    Cheers Andrew, the funny thing is, the rim is perfectly symmetrical
    between locknuts, so the wheel flips and remains in the same, offset
    position. I'm not really happy with compensating by wheel dish. The
    configuration is identical on all Raleigh 3-speed front forks, it
    isn't a mistake, but it would appear, a design feature. For the life
    of me i can't see why it would need to be like this. It would explain
    why nohands coasting is a bit tricky, ha.

    thanks for the reply,
    best wishes, Nick.

  6. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:


    -snip-

    Quoted message said:

    Cheers Andrew, the funny thing is, the rim is perfectly symmetrical
    between locknuts, so the wheel flips and remains in the same, offset
    position. I'm not really happy with compensating by wheel dish. The
    configuration is identical on all Raleigh 3-speed front forks, it
    isn't a mistake, but it would appear, a design feature. For the life
    of me i can't see why it would need to be like this. It would explain
    why nohands coasting is a bit tricky, ha.

    I ride a Raleigh Sports daily and have for a good long while. I have
    also sold Raleighs for a lifetime, including a few thousand Superbe,
    Sports and LTD three speeds. The fork and wheel should be symmetric.
    Really.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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