I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut out a lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I have an internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way to remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to self or bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut
out a
Quoted message said:
lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I
have an
Quoted message said:
internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way
to
Quoted message said:
remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to
self or
Quoted message said:
bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
Hope you can help. Julia
Hi there.
You can simply file them off, a lot of people do this so they can effect quicker wheel changes when racing.
If you're not racing though, it does strike me as a lot of trouble to go to just to save 5 seconds when you're putting the bike up on the the roof of your car...
I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut
out a
Quoted message said:
lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I
have an
Quoted message said:
internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way
to
Quoted message said:
remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to
self or
Quoted message said:
bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
Obviously it can't be done without loss of function as they will no longer be there to perform their er... function. The best way to lose them is probably to file them down by hand until they are flush with the rest of the dropout. A dab of paint should cover up the evidence and restore the cosmetic beauty of your dropouts. Apart from the obvious safety issue be aware you may be voiding any manufacturer's warranty.
I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut out a lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I have an internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way to remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to self or bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
Quoted message said:
You can simply file them off, a lot of people do this so they can effect quicker wheel changes when racing.
If you're not racing though, it does strike me as a lot of trouble to go to just to save 5 seconds when you're putting the bike up on the the roof of your car...
It's more than 5 seconds if you forget how many twiddles of the QR are required to get it just right, and fitting a wheel with LLs is never very pleasant anyway. The filing job is very easy, especially with aluminium drop outs. Not a lot of trouble at all.
I did my ITM Snyper with an ordinary file. No cosmetic damage is visable when looking at the bike normally.
I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut out a lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I have an internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way to remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to self or bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
Hope you can help. Julia
for me a 5" angle grinder with a worn (ie small diameter) cutoff wheel (mis-used as a flat grinding disk) gives best control -- --- Marten Gerritsen
"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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JBB said:
I have upgraded my front forks to ITM carbons; so far great, they cut out a lot of road vibration. However they are a real pain when it comes to removing and refitting the front wheel. I do this quite a lot as I have an internal bike rack for my car. I therefore want to know the best way to remove these abominations. By best I mean no unnecessary damage to self or bike, no loss of function and ideally no cosmetic difference.
Quoted message said:
You can simply file them off, a lot of people do this so they can effect quicker wheel changes when racing.
If you're not racing though, it does strike me as a lot of trouble to go to just to save 5 seconds when you're putting the bike up on the the roof of your car...
It's more than 5 seconds if you forget how many twiddles of the QR are required to get it just right, and fitting a wheel with LLs is never very pleasant anyway. The filing job is very easy, especially with aluminium drop outs. Not a lot of trouble at all.
I did my ITM Snyper with an ordinary file. No cosmetic damage is visable when looking at the bike normally.
~PB
I haven't washed the slurry off since Saturday's Mince Pie and Mulled wine run yet (don't ask) so I'll check what the dropouts are made of tomorrow - I think they're carbon..... What sort of file or could I do it with a Dremel?
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 19:49:40 -0000, "JBB" <[email hidden]>
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I haven't washed the slurry off since Saturday's Mince Pie and Mulled wine run yet (don't ask) so I'll check what the dropouts are made of tomorrow - I think they're carbon..... What sort of file or could I do it with a Dremel?
I could be wrong here, but, I think they are unlikely to be carbon dropouts. Most dropouts on carbon forks are a metal insert, bonded to the blades.
--
Call me "Bob"
"More oneness, less categories, Open hearts, no strategies"
Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.
I think they're carbon..... What sort of file or could I do it with a Dremel?
If they're ITM Millenniums the dropouts are aluminium, painted black. If you did the Denmead ride on Saturday, did you notice a very large chap on either a Coppi or a full carbon jobbie? That's my mate Paul, that is.
"Simonb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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JBB said:
I think they're carbon..... What sort of file or could I do it with a Dremel?
If they're ITM Millenniums the dropouts are aluminium, painted black. If you did the Denmead ride on Saturday, did you notice a very large chap on either a Coppi or a full carbon jobbie? That's my mate Paul, that is.
I just did the 50k - my brother-in-laws first audax. Very relaxing, super teashop at Fishbourne Roman palace and sunshine. Roads were a bit slippery in places though.
I just did the 50k - my brother-in-laws first audax. Very relaxing, super teashop at Fishbourne Roman palace and sunshine. Roads were a bit slippery in places though.
Nice part of Sussex. It didn't go to Bosham, did it?
I haven't washed the slurry off since Saturday's Mince Pie and
Mulled wine
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run yet (don't ask) so I'll check what the dropouts are made of
tomorrow - I
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think they're carbon..... What sort of file or could I do it with a
Dremel?
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I could be wrong here, but, I think they are unlikely to be carbon dropouts. Most dropouts on carbon forks are a metal insert, bonded to the blades.
Most are, yes, but some of the really top-end models have carbon dropouts as well as blades and steerers (there was a good 'group test' atricle on forks in C+ a few months ago - some of the ones they tested had carbon ends).