Hi, A short question and sorry if it was already asked. I just bought a shiny new road bike replacing my old mtb. The new bike is equipped with Shimano 105 set all over, 2x10 gears. With the mtb's 3x9 set I should not use all 9 rear gears if the front one was on either side. Is there any limitation like that on a 2x10 set? I wonder if I can just freely shift into any of the 10 gears - especially as the 105 shifters lack any indications about what gear I am in... Thanks and BR, Rudy
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Gear combinations allowed on 2x10 105 set
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- 28 April 2013
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- 29 April 2013
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- kloxxe
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Well, I found my answer here:
[FONT= arial]singletracks.commtb drivetrains 101 whats the big deal about 2x10Open ↗[/FONT]
"Crossing Your Chain: This is my favorite feature. On a 2×10 setup you can use all 10 gears with either chain ring; there is no chain crossing. On the trail this simplicity is awesome."
Great!
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Not sure where you found that, but in general, you should avoid using the large/large and small/small combos for extended periods. Using the large/large to get to the top of a short, steep climb, for a minute or so, would be OK, if you want to avoid a front shift. There's really no reason to ever be in the small/small, though. Let's say you have an 11-28 cassette on the rear. Your 34 front/11 back combo gives you virtually the same gear ratio as your 50 front/17 rear combo.
Don't worry about not having a gear indicator on your shifters. Your ears will tell you when you're cross chained. Just to give you an idea, I have an 11-28 cassette on my bike, with a 50/34 compact crank up front. I start to hear chain rub (that's the chain rubbing against the derailleur guide) in my 50/25 combo. At 50/28 you'd have to be deaf to not hear it. [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]
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Thanks, that makes sense.. I will listen to any rubbing sound, though I still kind of miss the gear indicator window.
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"Is there any limitation like that on a 2x10 set?"
Ah...the age old question!
Yes: If you want to minimize wear to your driveline. As stated above, running the large-large or small-small in a no go (CampyBob exception: If you're racing on the limit and about to hurl and grabbing ANY other gear would work...for God's sake grab it now!) Trying not to run the next to large or next to small cassette gear crossed for any length of time is a good idea for short chain stay bikes.
No: I like driveline noises and that mysterious 'grauchy' feel makes my legs tingle. Buying stuff at more frequent intervals keeps my bike up to date!
I know a guy that constantly climbs in his his large-large 10-speed Campy (53 x 25). Constanly. I swear, it's his favorite gear and he's dropped me while killing his cogs while straining at it a million times. I don't cross chain and I replace my chain more frequently than him. All you can do is...ride it the way you want to. If you start killing chains and cassettes or you saw thru your FD cage you might want to re-think your plan.
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One manufacturer's opinion: bicyclechainrings.comcrosschaining.htmlOpen ↗
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mpre53 said:
Not sure where you found that, but in general, you should avoid using the large/large and small/small combos for extended periods. Using the large/large to get to the top of a short, steep climb, for a minute or so, would be OK, if you want to avoid a front shift. There's really no reason to ever be in the small/small, though. Let's say you have an 11-28 cassette on the rear. Your 34 front/11 back combo gives you virtually the same gear ratio as your 50 front/17 rear combo. Don't worry about not having a gear indicator on your shifters. Your ears will tell you when you're cross chained. Just to give you an idea, I have an 11-28 cassette on my bike, with a 50/34 compact crank up front. I start to hear chain rub (that's the chain rubbing against the derailleur guide) in my 50/25 combo. At 50/28 you'd have to be deaf to not hear it. 😉 Â
What he said.
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Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
One manufacturer's opinion: bicyclechainrings.comcrosschaining.htmlOpen ↗
That's very informative, thanks!
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