Glue

"Noel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I had a dramatic tumble the other day (offroad and nothing worse than
cuts and bruises and a blackeye) but I managed to prang a bar-end. It is
one of these aluminium jobs which is an aluminium tube which fits over the
aluminium handlebar bracket.

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It was
glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More Nails' but
that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

Araldite is still available. Make sure that you clean both surfaces
thoroughly. Don't go for the rapid set Araldite, the bond strength is not
as great as the original 24 hr setting stuff. Having said that, you can
hasten the curing of 24 hr araldite by puting the pices somewhere warm like
on top of a radiator or in an airing cupboard without weakening the bond.

vernon said:

"Noel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I had a dramatic tumble the other day (offroad and nothing worse
than cuts and bruises and a blackeye) but I managed to prang a
bar-end. It is one of these aluminium jobs which is an aluminium
tube which fits over the aluminium handlebar bracket.

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It
was glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More
Nails' but that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

Araldite is still available. Make sure that you clean both surfaces
thoroughly. Don't go for the rapid set Araldite, the bond strength
is not as great as the original 24 hr setting stuff. Having said
that, you can hasten the curing of 24 hr araldite by puting the
pices somewhere warm like on top of a radiator or in an airing
cupboard without weakening the bond.

Araldite [1] isn't so good for bonding metal to metal. JB Weld or JB
Kwik (available from H******s) is a much better choice.

Chris

[1] The Greek goddess of industrial adhesives
--
Chris Eilbeck

"Chris Eilbeck" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

Araldite [1] isn't so good for bonding metal to metal. JB Weld or JB
Kwik (available from H******s) is a much better choice.

You may be right about the relative qualities but I once snapped an
aluminium elbow connecting a heater pipe to a cylinder head. I just joined
the two bits together with Araldite and it lasted about 15000 miles until I
sold the car. It was a cast item so broke with a nice rough surface and
repairing an immediately before oxidisation obviously helped but given the
under bonnet conditions I was impressed.

Noel <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It was
glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More Nails' but
that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

I was going to suggest contacting someone like Europa Aircraft, who use
very high-tech adhesive for gluing aluminium bits of their aircraft kits
together. However, I note that we're talking about a bar end here and so
suspect that it would be cheaper to buy a new pair (or even a complete set
of bars and ends) than the minimum quantity of that adhesive!

Come to that, the price of some types of Araldite (which is a trade name,
not a type of glue) is more than Wiggle charge for a new set of half-decent
bar ends - so repairing yours might not be cost-effective!

On 04/01/2007 00:22, Noel said,

Quoted message said:

I had a dramatic tumble the other day (offroad and nothing worse than
cuts and bruises and a blackeye) but I managed to prang a bar-end. It is
one of these aluminium jobs which is an aluminium tube which fits over the
aluminium handlebar bracket.

I had exactly the same situation the other week - a painful elbow and
bruised and grazed forearm, but otherwise what could a 40 year old bloke
lying on his back in brambles with a bike on top of him do but
laugh?!?!?!?!?

Quoted message said:

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It was
glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More Nails' but
that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

I glued it back with the 24hour Araldite (not the 5 minute stuff), and
so far it all seems OK. You need to make sure that pushing the tube
back on doesn't just push all the glue to the end of the bar, so be
generous with the glue, and push the bar on with a rotating motion, as
if you're screwing it on. You will still get some seepage at the end,
and that can be cleaned off with cellulose thinners.

As for this Araldite not being good for metal-on-metal - many
model-makers do just that, and our models haven't fallen apart yet!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd said:

I had exactly the same situation the other week - a painful elbow and
bruised and grazed forearm,

....

Quoted message said:

I glued it back with the 24hour Araldite (not the 5 minute stuff), and
so far it all seems OK.

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

regards, Ian SMith
--
|\ /| no .sig
|o o|
|/ \|

On 05/01/2007 13:24, Ian Smith said,

Quoted message said:

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

Yeah, but the cellulose thinners isn't good for your skin :-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd said:

As for this Araldite not being good for metal-on-metal - many
model-makers do just that, and our models haven't fallen apart yet!

I've done it but it's not the right thing [1] to use. I use a lot of
epoxy for making composite tubes etc. for high power rockets,
silver-loaded epoxy for antenna and electromagnetic structures but
there are times when only JB Weld will do. I don't think the fumes
have made me go any stranger just yet ;o)

Chris

[1] "Right thing" being defined as twice the bond strength for only
10-15% more money i.e. not esoteric materials like they put Lotus cars
together with. 5 minute epoxy is almost never the right thing.
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew http://www.mars.org.uk/
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

Noel said:

I had a dramatic tumble the other day (offroad and nothing worse than
cuts and bruises and a blackeye) but I managed to prang a bar-end. It is
one of these aluminium jobs which is an aluminium tube which fits over the
aluminium handlebar bracket.

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It was
glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More Nails' but
that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

As it happens, I have a friend who is a sales manager for a well known
glue company. I passed this to him and his suggestion is ....

<quote>
There are 2 possible products for the guy.
1. If the parts are close fitting e.g. less than .2mm gap then use 603.
Anaerobic bearing retainer available in 10ml
2. If gap is bigger then use 3430. 2 part epoxy available in 40ml
Both can be bought from either Brammer, Wyko, B&H, RS, Cromwell, RD Taylors
</quote>

--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

"There is a wicked pretense that one has been informed. But no such
thing has truly occurred! A mere slogan, an empty litany. No arguments
are heard, no evidence is weighed. It isn't news at all, only a source
of amusement for idlers." (Gibson-Sterling, The Difference Engine)

On 05/01/2007 19:28, Chris Eilbeck said,

Quoted message said:

[1] "Right thing" being defined as twice the bond strength for only
10-15% more money i.e. not esoteric materials like they put Lotus cars
together with. 5 minute epoxy is almost never the right thing.

5-minute epoxy is useless for most things - I use the 24 hour stuff, as
I mentioned. Personally, I prefer soldering metal kits, but that's not
practical in the OP's case, and also completely OT!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd said:

On 05/01/2007 19:28, Chris Eilbeck said,

Quoted message said:

[1] "Right thing" being defined as twice the bond strength for only
10-15% more money i.e. not esoteric materials like they put Lotus cars
together with. 5 minute epoxy is almost never the right thing.

5-minute epoxy is useless for most things - I use the 24 hour stuff,
as I mentioned. Personally, I prefer soldering metal kits, but that's
not practical in the OP's case, and also completely OT!

Trains? My dad'd love to get into that but he's more of a woodbutcher
than a metalworker.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck

"Noel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I had a dramatic tumble the other day (offroad and nothing worse than
cuts and bruises and a blackeye) but I managed to prang a bar-end. It is
one of these aluminium jobs which is an aluminium tube which fits over the
aluminium handlebar bracket.

Anyone have any good suggestions for glueing it back in place? It was
glued originally from what I can see. I have tried 'No More Nails' but
that did nothing really. Do they still make Aral-dite?!

Cheers
Noel

Assuming that it is the bar end which has come adrift from the handlebar
then Araldite should be OK, although as other posters have said don't be
tempted by the convenience of the quick-setting stuff. A tube-within-a-tube
joint will be working almost entirely in shear which is where the strength
of this type of glue is, the aluminium-aluminium and aluminium-carbon joints
which I used to work on in the aerospace industry were designed to minimise
peel stresses.

Also, surface preparation is just as important as the type of araldite. You
should remove as much of the old glue as you can, abrade the mating surfaces
and then wipe with a solvent to get rid of the dust and grease, bonding as
soon after the solvent evaporates as you can.

Good luck

--

Nigel

Ian Smith said:

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

I had an argument/discussion [1], years ago, that Cyanos had been
developed by the American military for use as sutures etc during the
Vietnam war would you have any links to this being true?

[1] Mothers boy friend and I were drinking one day and he had cut his
thumb. I told him about Cyano being used as stitches so the two of us
(feeling no pain) and covered in blood and superglue were trying to
neatly get the two halves of the cut together to get "Superglue" to
stick his skin.

--
www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk

soup said:

I had an argument/discussion [1], years ago, that Cyanos had been
developed by the American military for use as sutures etc during the
Vietnam war would you have any links to this being true?

No. It was used early on for that purpose, but it was actually
discovered accidentally in an attempt to find a new clear plastic for
gun-sights.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate
http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/msuperglue.html

R

soup said:

Ian Smith said:

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

I had an argument/discussion [1], years ago, that Cyanos had been
developed by the American military for use as sutures etc during the
Vietnam war would you have any links to this being true?

True, I believe for certain values of 'developed'. I understand it
was invented earlier than that, but you could very well say they were
developed (as in, refined, improved, packaged) by the military during
Vietnam.

Medical cyano is not necessarily the same as off-the-shelf superglue,
however. They can irritate the skin, and can give out some nasty
fumes - but you'd need a pretty big wound to use enough to generate
enough fumes to worry you, and with a wound like that, a few fumes
aren't going to worry you all that much.

regards, Ian SMith
--
|\ /| no .sig
|o o|
|/ \|

Ian Smith said:

Quoted message said:

I had exactly the same situation the other week - a painful elbow and
bruised and grazed forearm,

...

Quoted message said:

I glued it back with the 24hour Araldite (not the 5 minute stuff), and
so far it all seems OK.

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

That spray-on plaster stuff that Elastoplast are doing is really good
for cuts and scrapes once you've cleaned the wound. I've been doing
loads of work with metal tapes/films recently and keep getting cuts.
This stuff sorts it out a treat.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck

Ian Smith said:

Medical cyano is not necessarily the same as off-the-shelf superglue,
however. They can irritate the skin, and can give out some nasty
fumes

It can be a little more toxic than that. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate and the Straight Dope
reference there - which also gives the history.

R

In article <[email hidden]>, Ian Smith
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

soup said:

Ian Smith said:

Someone should tell the NHS. In my experience they normally use much
more expensive cyano glue...

I had an argument/discussion [1], years ago, that Cyanos had been
developed by the American military for use as sutures etc during the
Vietnam war would you have any links to this being true?

True, I believe for certain values of 'developed'. I understand it
was invented earlier than that, but you could very well say they were
developed (as in, refined, improved, packaged) by the military during
Vietnam.

Medical cyano is not necessarily the same as off-the-shelf superglue,
however. They can irritate the skin, and can give out some nasty
fumes - but you'd need a pretty big wound to use enough to generate
enough fumes to worry you, and with a wound like that, a few fumes
aren't going to worry you all that much.

It stings like F%$@# though.

Rob Morley said:

Quoted message said:

Medical cyano is not necessarily the same as off-the-shelf superglue,
however. They can irritate the skin, and can give out some nasty
fumes - but you'd need a pretty big wound to use enough to generate
enough fumes to worry you, and with a wound like that, a few fumes
aren't going to worry you all that much.

It stings like F%$@# though.

Is Germolene 'New Skin' actually cyano then? That hurts a lot on an open
wound but I always imagined that was some sort of antiseptic at work.

Haven't used it in years but should get some for the next trip to the
Philippines in fact. Useful for keeping tropical nasties
and sand and flies out of the kids cuts and scrapes (assuming we can get
the newskin on them!)

Cheers
Noel