Gluing sewups

Steve-<< This works great but when I flat I find it near impossible to get the
tire
off while i'm on the road...and i'm a fairly strong guy. When you guys put
glue on the rim do you spread it edge to edge or just pour a bead right
down the center? >><BR><BR>

Edge to edge. It is better to have a tubie that is tough to get off, rsather
than have one roll off.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

I put cement on both the rim and on the tire and spread it 3/4 of the
way across. The remainder of space is usually taken up by the excess
that oozes out under pressure.

As for removing a flat tubie I carry a clincher tire lever to slip
under the tire (pushing it thru to the other side of the rim) and then
use it assist in breaking the cement bond just far enough to get a
handhold to finish the job.

Happy tubing,
Greg Hall

Steve Wingate <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

When I blue my tires on I:

1. put glue on the tire then let it sit 24 hrs
2. put glue on the rim then let that sit a few hours
3. put more glue on the tire then mount the tire.

This works great but when I flat I find it near impossible to get the tire
off while i'm on the road...and i'm a fairly strong guy. When you guys put
glue on the rim do you spread it edge to edge or just pour a bead right
down the center? I'm not taking corners at 30mph so I don't need the
ultimate in rim/tire connectivity (ask me again after I roll my first tire)

This is the proper way to glue a tubular tire:
Vittoria Mastik One or Continental rim cement work best. Wear disposable vinyl
surgical gloves. If the rim is new, wipe the tire bed using a rag dampened with
acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the surface. Using your gloved fingertip,
apply a thin coat of glue to the rim. It is very important to go all the way to
the edges of the tire bed. If you get any stray glue on the braking surface of
the rim, you can remove it with lacquer thinner. Inflate the tire slightly to
give it shape, and completely coat the base tape with a thin coat of glue. Set
the rim and the tire aside to dry-an hour or two is sufficient.
Next, apply a second, thin coat of glue to the rim. Deflate the tire and,
starting at the valve, stretch it onto the rim. Now, re-inflate it to 30-40psi
to give it shape. Working quickly, manipulate the tire, if necessary, to get it
centered on the rim. Inflate the tire to 120psi, and let it cure at least 8
hours before riding.
If your rim has been used before, and the residual glue has not been
contaminated with dirt or grease, one new coat of cement on the rim is
sufficent to mount the next tire. Rmember to pre-glue the base tape of your
spare tire as well. And, as someone else has suggested, carrying a plastic tire
lever to help remove a punctured tubular is a very good idea.

Steve Wingate <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

When I blue my tires on I:

1. put glue on the tire then let it sit 24 hrs
2. put glue on the rim then let that sit a few hours
3. put more glue on the tire then mount the tire.

This works great but when I flat I find it near impossible to get the tire
off while i'm on the road...and i'm a fairly strong guy. When you guys put
glue on the rim do you spread it edge to edge or just pour a bead right
down the center? I'm not taking corners at 30mph so I don't need the
ultimate in rim/tire connectivity (ask me again after I roll my first tire)

I skip step #3 and put glue on the rim right after the tire, and then
mount it more or less immediately, pump it up and wait a few hours to
a day to use it, and yet I have the same problem. I do try to get the
glue all the way to the rim edge. You basically need a tire iron or
something else that you can use to pry up the tire and and get enough
of it loose that you can tear it the rest of the way off.

Based on Jobst's data on rolling resistance I have hypothesized that
there is a good chance that the rolling resistance of a tubular may be
inversely related to how well the tire is glued on, so I would not
purposely try to make it less well glued. And that's if you don't care
about the fact that it would be certainly increasing the probability
of losing your tire, probably when you are putting some kind of
emergency handling demand on your bike.

I have thought about leaving the glue off the rim between two spokes
to make it easier to pry the tire off that one spot as a starting
point but have never tried it; besides, it could be the spot where
your tire rolled off.

JP

<snip>

Quoted message said:

I have thought about leaving the glue off the rim between two spokes
to make it easier to pry the tire off that one spot as a starting
point but have never tried it; besides, it could be the spot where
your tire rolled off.

JP

I've heard time trialists/triathletes doing this with no issues. I wouldn't
recommend it for crit racers. I've heard of friends rolling tires due to the
non-glued section.

M

Ask Joseba Beloki how pleasant is the alternative...

Steve Wingate said:

When I blue my tires on I:

1. put glue on the tire then let it sit 24 hrs
2. put glue on the rim then let that sit a few hours
3. put more glue on the tire then mount the tire.

This works great but when I flat I find it near impossible to get the tire
off while i'm on the road...and i'm a fairly strong guy. When you guys put
glue on the rim do you spread it edge to edge or just pour a bead right
down the center? I'm not taking corners at 30mph so I don't need the
ultimate in rim/tire connectivity (ask me again after I roll my first tire)