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guni design questions

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01 / Original postguni design questionsLITTLEbigWheel · 6 Jul 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–18Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #18LITTLEbigWheel · 7 Jul 2006

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Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
6 July 2006
Last activity
7 July 2006
Original author
LITTLEbigWheel
Posts
18
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Public discussion
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Cranksets

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  1. Original post
    LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #1

    I've robbed enough ideas from various guni threads to want to make
    something that goes wicked fast without the great bother of making a
    huge wheel (although a huge wheel would get some looks from passers
    by). Anywho, I'm making a "short" giraffe with small crank axles just
    above both sides of the hub axle (using gears on both sides). My
    quandary, though, lies in wheel size. I can see the aesthetic appeal in
    using a 20" (looks cool going wicked fast), however I also am aware
    that 24"+ wheels roll over bumps better resulting in less UPDs. I
    dunno, form or function?😕

    I am also toying with the idea of putting the crank axles -below- the
    hub axle (I know...another ripped off idea😉 )

    Any input would be great!

    J

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    LITTLEbigWheel
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  2. mark williamson
    Archived post
    #2

    Not that I've tried this but... A 24" might be a little less skittish,
    and additionally might lend itself well to being a really fast cross
    country Muni. That could be interesting...

    --
    mark williamson

    Dave: Just a question. What use is a unicyle with no seat? And no
    pedals!
    Mark: To answer a question with a question: What use is a skateboard?
    Dave: Skateboards have wheels.
    Mark: My wheel has a wheel!
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  3. iridemymuni
    Archived post
    #3

    i'd definatly go for a 24", you dont wanna be going wicked fast into a
    decent sized crack on a 20" and lose your front teeth.

    cranks below the axle would make for worse turning circles i would
    imagine, but i can't be sure on that. i say just make something, and if
    it screws up, make it again :P.

    i'd say go cranks above the axle and 24"

    --
    iridemymuni

    The past is in your head, the future's in our hands

    ~~hold bananas for christ~~
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  4. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #4

    Right on. I really needed to decide. My bits from UDC just arrived (in a
    "AmeriChicken" box lol), and I'm off to the welder/😄 machinist to get
    him to turn me some axles, so these iseas are awsome!😄
    thanks
    j

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  5. iridemymuni
    Archived post
    #5

    wow you're really getting into this design and making thing, thats
    awesome! you've actually bought parts and are going to pay somebody to
    do it!! you're my hero!, i usuallyjust cut up old bikes and weld them
    together myself the dodgey way, but you, sir, are amazing

    --
    iridemymuni

    The past is in your head, the future's in our hands

    ~~hold bananas for christ~~
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  6. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #6

    If you're gonna go wicked fast, do it right.

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  7. mornish
    Archived post
    #7

    how much is it going to cost you? I want to do this if It isn't too
    expensive. Post pics of the finished uni.What parts dd you order from
    UDC?

    Miles

    --
    mornish

    Quoted message said:

    <>UNICYCLING FOR MYSLELF TOO<><

    "LX seats are as comfortable as bricks." lildude2
    "CX seats are bricks."
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  8. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #8

    I'm into it for about $150 thus far. It suprised me. All those bits and
    bobs add up. I have all the parts except the crank axles and the wheel
    and tire. I'm hoping the axles will be pretty cheap considering this
    machinist is a buddy... and owes me a favor. I got bearing holders and
    a seat post. 80 bucks for 3 little things!(including shipping duties
    etc.)

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  9. Skippii
    Archived post
    #9

    I built something just like you're describing. I used a 26 inch wheel
    because of the tire and rim selection--and I had some lying around.
    They are a lot of fun, and you really can go fast on them. I used 175mm
    cranks on mine because I live around very steep hills (I'm in the
    mountains) and I really don't have any problem riding mine up hills.

    --
    Skippii

    One for the Road: Harrisonburg's Unicycle gang.
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  10. harper
    Archived post
    #10

    'Here's how it's done correctly.'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40534) This is
    George Barne's "Another geared unicycle" thread.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
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  11. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #11
    Skippii said:

    I built something just like you're describing. I used a 26 inch wheel
    because of the tire and rim selection--and I had some lying around.
    They are a lot of fun, and you really can go fast on them. I used 175mm
    cranks on mine because I live around very steep hills (I'm in the
    mountains) and I really don't have any problem riding mine up hills.

    What gear ratio are you running? I've got 165's and want to get as much
    speed as possible without having to walk up most hills.

    --
    LITTLEbigWheel
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  12. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #12
    harper said:

    'Here's how it's done correctly.'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40534) This is
    George Barne's "Another geared unicycle" thread.

    😠 I can't SEE it. The link in his thread doesn't work. I need to
    see how its done correctly!

    --
    LITTLEbigWheel
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  13. flyer
    Archived post
    #13

    The bigger your wheel, the comfier your ride. Also, (and bear in mind
    this is half my own experience and half reading the forum) I hear that
    longer cranks are nicer on gunis.

    I would definitely recommend getting your crank length nice and
    comfortable for your particular needs, and then deciding on the gear
    ratio you want with your wheel. You should be able to run any crank
    size you like, however bear in mind that for a giraffe you're going to
    need leverage to mount it, so longer cranks and lower gear ratios will
    make it far easier to get on.

    If I were you I'd probably be looking into a 24 or 26 with an mtb tire
    on it, something to soak up the bumps a bit more. good luck!

    --
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  14. harper
    Archived post
    #14
    LITTLEbigWheel said:

    😠 I can't SEE it. The link in his thread doesn't work. I need to see
    how its done correctly!

    You're right. JC has a copy of the photo and posted it recently. Maybe
    he'll hop in and post it again.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
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  15. markf
    Archived post
    #15

    ah yes. george ahs long since graduated from iowa state(where those vids
    were hosted) and they've taken down his webspace. not sure how oten he
    reads these forums anymore, but that guni was a senior mechanical
    design project.

    --
    markf

    stuck in iowa and gainfully employed.
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  16. mornish
    Archived post
    #16

    I think the 24" hookworm would work well.

    --
    mornish

    Quoted message said:

    <>UNICYCLING FOR MYSLELF TOO<><

    "LX seats are as comfortable as bricks." lildude2
    "CX seats are bricks."
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  17. mornish
    Archived post
    #17

    Are you building the frame?

    --
    mornish

    Quoted message said:

    <>UNICYCLING FOR MYSLELF TOO<><

    "LX seats are as comfortable as bricks." lildude2
    "CX seats are bricks."
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  18. LITTLEbigWheel
    Archived post
    #18
    mornish said:

    Are you building the frame?

    Yup. I stole the MTB-front-suspension idea from another thread.

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