Handlebar & mod suggestions for pushing a hybrid/road more towards road?

[RatherNerdy]

I have an L.L.Bean branded Schwinn Sport Tour bike. The bike has the following features:

• 6000 series aluminum frame (XL - 6'1" to 6"5")
• Shimano Altus Gears
• Sunrace M50 shifters
• Promax brakes
• Titec setback seat post
• roughly 30lbs

What modifications would you suggest to turn this commuter into a more worthy road bike?

Immediately, I'm looking at handlebars - I would like to be able to drop or extend, but still have the ability for multiple hand positions. Suggestions?

Any other mods?

Additionally, I'm 6'5" and even with the offset seat, find myself too upright.

Here are some handlebars or extensions, that I'm looking at:

• Promax Trekking handlebars
• Aero bars
• Bullhorn/pursuit handlebars
• Cinelli Spinaci bar extensions

 

[alfeng]

Converting any HYBRID bike to a ROAD bike configuration only requires money ...

You can begin by adding a set of Drop Bar CLIP-ON bars ...​

​

These will set you back between $20-to-$30; but, will allow you to determine whether-or-not you will be comfortable with a set of "real" Drop Handlebars ...

AND, allow you to continue to use your current shifters & brakes before ponying up for a set of ROAD shifters/etc.
​

If the Drop handlebars work for you OR if you want to skip the "first" step and feel that you are ready for Drop handlebars, then the thing which I think you need to know is that the widest Road bars which I know about are 46cm wide (o-o) when measured at the bar ends ...

With many Road handlebars, the area where the brake levers are mounted is narrower than the ends ...

The TruVativ Rouleur are as wide where the brake levers mount as at the ends ...

THAT's something a taller person will benefit from, IMO.

I do NOT know if they are still available; but, other 46cm wide Road handlebars certainly are available (check eBay) ...
​

Also, I think that you can-or-should consider a 130mm stem ....

But first, because it looks as if you have an adjustable stem, you may want to consider adjusting it so that it is horizontal rather than pointed upward ... doing so will effectively increase the reach by a small amount.
​

Regardless, it looks as if you may not have maximized how far rearward you can locate your saddle in the seatpost's cradle, yet. Why not slide it rearward as far as it will go?
​

OTHER, changes which you may eventually want to consider include changing to Road shifters (Campagnolo shifters can mate with almost any recent front-or-rear derailleur ... that's not true with either Shimano or SRAM), different brake calipers designed for Road brake levers (the pull rate is different ... you can either opt for cantilever levers or mini-V-brake calipers), and possibly a crankset with 180mm crankarms.

What is your anticipated budget?

AND, how handy are you?

That is, how much DIY work can you do on the conversion?​

​

 

[RatherNerdy]

Converting any HYBRID bike to a ROAD bike configuration only requires money ...

You can begin by adding a set of Drop Bar CLIP-ON bars ...​

​

These will set you back between $20-to-$30; but, will allow you to determine whether-or-not you will be comfortable with a set of "real" Drop Handlebars ...

AND, allow you to continue to use your current shifters & brakes before ponying up for a set of ROAD shifters/etc.
​

If the Drop handlebars work for you OR if you want to skip the "first" step and feel that you are ready for Drop handlebars, then the thing which I think you need to know is that the widest Road bars which I know about are 46cm wide (o-o) when measured at the bar ends ...

With many Road handlebars, the area where the brake levers are mounted is narrower than the ends ...

The TruVativ Rouleur are as wide where the brake levers mount as at the ends ...

THAT's something a taller person will benefit from, IMO.

I do NOT know if they are still available; but, other 46cm wide Road handlebars certainly are available (check eBay) ...
​

Also, I think that you can-or-should consider a 130mm stem ....

But first, because it looks as if you have an adjustable stem, you may want to consider adjusting it so that it is horizontal rather than pointed upward ... doing so will effectively increase the reach by a small amount.
​

Regardless, it looks as if you may not have maximized how far rearward you can locate your saddle in the seatpost's cradle, yet. Why not slide it rearward as far as it will go?​

OTHER, changes which you may eventually want to consider include changing to Road shifters (Campagnolo shifters can mate with almost any recent front-or-rear derailleur ... that's not true with either Shimano or SRAM), different brake calipers designed for Road brake levers (the pull rate is different ... you can either opt for cantilever levers or mini-V-brake calipers), and possibly a crankset with 180mm crankarms.

What is your anticipated budget?

AND, how handy are you?

That is, how much DIY work can you do on the conversion?​

​

I work for L.L.Bean, so I ended up getting the bike cheap.

I set the seat back further in the cradle today, and I was going to adjust the stem as well and play with the spacers, but the adjustment bolt is stripped all to hell. I've used drops plenty, but I'm not sure that's exactly what I want for this bike. I think I want to be extended versus down. Once I get the adjustments made you suggested, I'll take a ride and try and determine if drops are necessary, or if another option would work better - maybe bar end extensions or the trek bar I linked above.

Thanks for the input!

 

[alfeng]

... the adjustment bolt is stripped all to hell. I've used drops plenty, but I'm not sure that's exactly what I want for this bike. I think I want to be extended versus down. Once I get the adjustments made you suggested, I'll take a ride and try and determine if drops are necessary, or if another option would work better - maybe bar end extensions or the trek bar I linked above.

BTW. If the bolt is (¿almost?) stripped it can either be replaced OR you can simply remove the top cap & flip the stem upside-down to change its angle ...

If you are not clumsy, then you will not have to worry about the fork-headset adjustment ...

Simply remove the stem's face plate & lower the current handlebar assembly ...

Remove the top cap ...

Loosen the bolts which are holding the stem on the steerer ...

Slide it off ...

Flip it over ...

Slide it back on ...​

Put the top cap back on & tighten ~90% ...

Lock the stem in place ...

Finish tightening the top cap ...

Re-mount the handlebar, adjust, tighten ...

Done!​

While there is some difference in reaching down and reaching forward ... you can achieve BOTH with Drop handlebars ...