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Hardtail vs. Softtail

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Mountain Bikes
Published
4 February 2008
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14 February 2008
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mike
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  1. As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com

  2. "mike" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com

    for those riding conditions I'd stick with the ht. Now after saying that I
    rode my rigid ss Friday and was sooooo glad to be back on the double squishy
    Saturday. As you get older the soft tail become way more comfortable.

    Gary

  3. mike said:

    As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com

    What's the target budget? IME you need to drop major coin to get a
    decent double-boingy, the lesser bikes have far too much in the way of
    weight and loss of translated power penalties. I've got a high-end
    hardtail (Ventana custom) and a entry/mid range full susser (Marin
    Rift Zone), and the HT is the only one I really use. The FS is more
    of a snow/beater/loaner bike. I've ridden FS bikes I liked, but they
    were all thousands and thousands of dollars. I've ridden hardtails I
    liked that cost less than a grand.

  4. The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND).
    The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998.
    I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame
    is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last
    season.)

    Mike

  5. mike said:

    The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND).
    The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998.
    I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame
    is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last
    season.)

    Mike

    I should have mentioned, the cracks where not from doing large drops.
    The Aluminum frame cracked at the bottom tubing leading from the rear
    wheel to the bottom bracket housing. Excessive torque while playing in
    the mud was probably the cause of this. Neither crack was at the weld.
    (1 crack on the chain side was about 2 inches from the weld on the BB
    tube, and the other side was about 1 inch from it.)

    Mike

  6. mike said:

    As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com

    Well pal I'm in the same boat as you. Only differance is my HT was a
    bit cheaper, and the FS's I'd be looking at are a little cheaper. But
    most of the folks I ride with have FS bikes and seem to be very happy
    with them. At 58 years old my bones could use a little more
    cushioning.

    Eric

  7. mike said:

    The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND).
    The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998.
    I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame
    is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last
    season.)

    Mike

    That's an interesting price point. If you were planning on spending
    $1G US, the answer would be a lot easier.

    I thought that for that a couple grand you could get a pretty nice sus
    bike these days. I mean, the Horst link is over 20 years old and ever
    since the Curnutt and similar other shocks were improved, I haven't
    noticed any major improvements. I figured I'd check out one of the
    major manufacturers to get an idea of what prices are like, and then I
    saw the MSRPs on the 2008 Spesh's. Makes me wonder if their whole
    pricing structure is out of wack. The cheapest StumpJumper FSR is
    $2400?! Ouch!

    However, I kind of think that these days spending 2G on a hard tail
    bike is excessive. I rented a $900 Haro Escape 8.2 a few years ago
    that was fantastic (and, unfortunately, discontinued.) The parts
    weren't blingy at all, but the bike felt very solid, fit me very well,
    and worked great.

    I guess a couple other question are whether these bikes are going to
    be some people's ONLY bike. That is, will this bike potentially be
    used for everything from commuting to grocery shopping to hitting the
    trails? Or are these going to be mountain bikes for mountain bikers,
    and do your conditions warrant the added weight and complexity of full
    sus?

    And do you all need to get the same model?

    /s

  8. "Scott Gordo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    mike said:

    The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND).
    The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998.
    I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame
    is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last
    season.)

    Mike

    That's an interesting price point. If you were planning on spending
    $1G US, the answer would be a lot easier.

    I thought that for that a couple grand you could get a pretty nice sus
    bike these days. I mean, the Horst link is over 20 years old and ever
    since the Curnutt and similar other shocks were improved, I haven't
    noticed any major improvements. I figured I'd check out one of the
    major manufacturers to get an idea of what prices are like, and then I
    saw the MSRPs on the 2008 Spesh's. Makes me wonder if their whole
    pricing structure is out of wack. The cheapest StumpJumper FSR is
    $2400?! Ouch!

    However, I kind of think that these days spending 2G on a hard tail
    bike is excessive. I rented a $900 Haro Escape 8.2 a few years ago
    that was fantastic (and, unfortunately, discontinued.) The parts
    weren't blingy at all, but the bike felt very solid, fit me very well,
    and worked great.

    I guess a couple other question are whether these bikes are going to
    be some people's ONLY bike. That is, will this bike potentially be
    used for everything from commuting to grocery shopping to hitting the
    trails? Or are these going to be mountain bikes for mountain bikers,
    and do your conditions warrant the added weight and complexity of full
    sus?

    And do you all need to get the same model?

    /s

    Mike,

    I recently made the switch from a HT to a FS. I ended up with a Specialized
    Epic Expert. List was around $3200 and I got if for $2300. The LBS was
    willing to deal!

    There haven't been many times that I've missed the HT and the FS is
    certainly more comfortable. I have almost no back and neck pain on the FS
    whereas the HT was starting to really hurt.

    Dave

  9. mike said:

    As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com


    Buy yourself a steel hard tail,my pick would be a Rocky Mountain Hammer
    or Blizzard and ride on any full squish at that price point will
    probably not last IMHO
    PS own a Blizzard and an Epic the Blizzard is way more fun!!

  10. Dave:

    This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car,
    motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc.

    Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck.
    Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got
    out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km
    on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college.

    On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard
    technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full
    suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike
    after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb
    with the mud still attached.)

    Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major
    mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/
    grease.

    Mike

  11. "mike" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Dave:

    This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car,
    motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc.

    Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck.
    Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got
    out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km
    on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college.

    On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard
    technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full
    suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike
    after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb
    with the mud still attached.)

    Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major
    mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/
    grease.

    Mike

    Unless you go with a single speed the tune-up won't take much longer on the
    fs bike. The major strip/rebuild is in the derailleur, brakes and cables.
    A pivot doesn't take all that long to clean and lube.

    As for the added weight.....stay out of the mud if its on the trail because
    you're messing up the trail. If not on a trail then keep doing what you're
    doing...ride....clean.....ride....etc.

  12. mike said:

    Dave:

    This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car,
    motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc.

    Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck.
    Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got
    out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km
    on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college.

    On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard
    technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full
    suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike
    after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb
    with the mud still attached.)

    Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major
    mud?  My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/
    grease.

    Mike

    I've never had problem riding a FS in muddy conditions and I've never
    had to strip the bike down after a muddy ride. A quick hose down and
    lube seems to be all it needs. But, then again I don't expect my chain
    to last more than 6 months.
    I've also found I get better traction (climbing and cornering) in
    loose muddy/rocky conditions on my FS than my HT.

    As for handling with the extra weight, my FS starts at 36lb clean and
    so a bit or a lot or mud isn't going to make much difference. 🙂
    Where mud can be a pain, rim brakes can get clogged and why I run
    disks, spds can get clogged and may need an extra stamp to engage, fat
    tyres float over mud and so no traction and hence why I run 1.75s or
    narrower.

    If I only had one bike it would be a FS, it's just that bit more
    versatile than a HT.

  13. Per mike:

    Quoted message said:

    Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major
    mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/
    grease.

    My position has always been that dirt acts as a protective layer
    between the bike and the vicissitudes of the outside world:
    http://tinyurl.com/27wcou
    --
    PeteCresswell

  14. mike said:

    Dave:

    This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car,
    motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc.

    Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck.
    Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got
    out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km
    on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college.

    On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard
    technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full
    suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike
    after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb
    with the mud still attached.)

    Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major
    mud?  My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/
    grease.

    Mike

    I don't want to preach, but you just removed 10lbs of dirt from your
    trail.

    /s

  15. Maybe if I was riding on an organized trail or a golf course I would
    worry about the mud that was removed.

  16. mike said:

    As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
    (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail
    and softtail is starting.
    Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a
    softtail, or stay with what I know.

    My question is;
    Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the
    trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail?

    Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should
    I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail?

    The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and
    lots of mud.
    I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock.

    Mike
    mlawrenc(at)gmail.com

    Test a few F/S then make up your own mind.

  17. mike said:

    Maybe if I was riding on an organized trail or a golf course I would
    worry about the mud that was removed.

    Actually I wouldn't care if somebody removed all the mud from a golf
    course, but trails are very suseptible to damage from erosion and
    every groove we cut adds to the problem.

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